Looking for a reasonably priced MECHANICAL mod

[Trick]

Thanks, guys. I've made a few edits to the review to clarify some of the points made. First, we were mistaken about the purpose of that ring at the bottom of the button, which on a second look doesn't actually adjust switch throw, it just looks like the one that serves that purpose on a GGTS. We've corrected that part of the review.

On the second, as mentioned earlier, the .01 drop is not under load. "Under load" tests are very tricky to perform across different mods in a way that that the numbers actually mean anything useful and accurate, as there are a lot of potential variables (batery type and charge, atomizer resistance, etc., all contribute to voltage drop). At this point, we're strictly checking for voltage loss across the mod itself, which in most cases is below .01 volts, though we've found it higher than that in some really sub-par mods.

We're banging out a reliable way to do fair comparative "under load" testing and will probably go through and update our reviews if we can get all the kinks worked out.

 

[durgidog]

I'd really appreciate side by side pics, i have a Cobra Genesis that i know will look better on the ggts but all my drippers are wide and flat so theyd be a match for the rapture lol.

The CCTS arrived today, here are some pics with the DrawTube. First is 18350 mode, alone and with the igo-l (I put a satin finish on the DrawTube's igo). I used AW IMR button tops for all the pics.

and 18490:

18650 mode:

I haven't tried my kick but shouldn't be a problem since the CCTS telescopes. As is it can be used with an 18490/18500 and a kick, and you can buy an extension sleeve to use the 18650 with a kick.

My first impressions are that the threads are not as smooth as the DrawTube, and the metal is much thinner, the CCTS is lighter and feels less sturdy. I am primarily a dripper and my favorite atties will not screw into this mod, they just spin and don't catch the connector threads. I could use an adapter, but the connection on the CCTS is recessed so I can't push the drip shield all the way to the bottom. I've contacted Steam Monkey about returning the CCTS for this reason, I actually bought it to refinish down to brass, but not being able to use my fave atties is a deal breaker.

Personally I think the DrawTube is a sturdier mod, and I've had no problems with any accessories I've screwed into it. I prefer the flat top and seamless look of the DrawTube in 18350 mode, the CCTS shows a slight gap with an 18350, and the bottom tube is a different color than the other pieces. I also find the DrawTube easier to setup, you just screw the top tube down until it makes contact with the battery. The CCTS has an inner tube that screws up, and the extension piece that screws down, you need to fiddle with both of these to get the battery to fit correctly.

 

[durgidog]

HUGE thumbs up to Lance from Steam Monkey who has already responded and sent me a return label. I played around some more and got one atty out of 12 to fit. As it turns out, the CCTS really isn't suited to using a drip shield anyway. If you don't use an adapter the drip shield is too short, and if you do use an adapter the drip shield will slide down with the slightest pressure (like removing the drip tip).

Lance's customer service is fantastic, his prices are some of the best and he ships fast. I also purchased and igo-l (excellent price) which normally comes with a short piece of crappy wire and silica. Lance adds 28, 30, and 32 awg wire samples as well as pieces of 400 and 500 SS mesh so you can play around with different stuff to see what you like. I highly recommend Steam Monkey.

 

[tc1]

Contact material isn't the only thing that matters. My K100 (all steel) hits just as hard if not harder than my CCTS with the brass contacts exposed. The reasoning for this I believe is because the K100 has thicker walls, allowing more current to flow through the circuit.

 

[thebong24]

Contact material isn't the only thing that matters. My K100 (all steel) hits just as hard if not harder than my CCTS with the brass contacts exposed. The reasoning for this I believe is because the K100 has thicker walls, allowing more current to flow through the circuit.

Love the hits my k100 does...sometimes it doesnt make me think it has a ss contacts lol

sent from mars

 

[Trick]

Contact material isn't the only thing that matters. My K100 (all steel) hits just as hard if not harder than my CCTS with the brass contacts exposed. The reasoning for this I believe is because the K100 has thicker walls, allowing more current to flow through the circuit.

I've noticed this too, and the comments in this thread finally got me to iron out the remaining kinks in the Vape Squad testing and do some real under-load tests, and the K100 performed really well, especially compared to other Chinese mods. It had less voltage drop than any other Chinese mod we tested, even a few with brass contacts. It could easily be the metal content -- the K100's a pretty solid little clone.