Had to return mine today, dead battery on cell 3. Warrant Service message on screen. It shipped with some old firmware that was probably the glitchy one that did not cut off on low voltage.
Lost Vape EFusion DNA200
- Thread starter Ant G
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Sorry to see yours went belly up. I heard people having issues with some of the boards and batteries. I almost got one then decided to hold off and let others be the guinea pig for a change
I'm holding off for awhile and see what comes along. I just got the ESquare dna 40 as I have a SX mini M and I wanted to try the temp mode on a dna device also wanted to see how it felt in my hand not sure how much bigger the Efusion is than the Esquare but if it's that much bigger then I will have to pass on that as the Esquare is a bit big in my hand and gets a bit uncomfortable after awhile so I just use my SX mini or my vapor shark RDNA30
The machining and metal choices are fantastic on the EFusion DNA 200 mod.
I wanted to see if the raw aluminum side panels would work on their own merit.
I took off the faux carbon fiber stickers, removed the tack glue, and brushed them with nothing more than a fresh Scotch-Brite Medium Duty Scrub Sponge (the abrasive green side).
I just made sure to scrub very straight and steady with even pressure, and in one direction only (lifting up at the end of the stroke) . Took about 2 minutes per side.
I think it turned out great.
I wanted to see if the raw aluminum side panels would work on their own merit.
I took off the faux carbon fiber stickers, removed the tack glue, and brushed them with nothing more than a fresh Scotch-Brite Medium Duty Scrub Sponge (the abrasive green side).
I just made sure to scrub very straight and steady with even pressure, and in one direction only (lifting up at the end of the stroke) . Took about 2 minutes per side.
I think it turned out great.
Last edited:
Looks great. I just sent mine back and waiting on the refund. Also had to send my Reuleaux back as well as it had a short error on the screen every time i tried to fire.
Wow you sure are having bad luck with the DNA 200's. Glad I'm waiting. I keep reading more and more of issues. One day they shall fix everything.
Thanks. I just have to find a way to cover the holes, in an interesting way. Like some kind of stainless hardware. Micro fitments, or something. I'm also experimenting with custom printed covers using a removable tack adhesive.
Bummer. I think you're due some good karma on your next DNA 200.
I filled in the holes on the non-DNA board side with short, sanded down, plastic 2.5mm rod cuttings / plugs (small plastic rod was found at a hobby store); it's the left side in this photo.
The plugs were painted aluminum gray with model paint. I also painted the DNA board's fitments to match.
Press fit, and a drop of model cement on the backside holds them in. While the glue was still wet I gently pushed the plugs back, from the front, until they were reassessed to match the DNA board's plugs.
This photo is a bit magnified, highlight-y and unforgiving, at normal viewing distances and lighting it looks nearly flawless.
The lighting seems to show the left side being brighter, but it's not, it's just the way it's lit.
The upper left hole had a small drill imperfection, but I left it there in all its raw glory. I may file it out at some point.
It could maybe use a few more strokes with the scrub pad to get the brushed finish perfected.
The other side of the mod was given the same treatment, of course, and they look identical.
Overall, the raw curb appeal, material choices and minimal design of the mod, now with the cheesy stickers removed, definitely has a high-end mod vibe.
I shall sit at my local vape shop's HEMO snob table with a fair amount of impunity; DNA 200 style.
This is the only DNA 200 mod I feel this way about, at the moment. To me, everything else is a freak show of gaudy logotypes, over-the-top branding, wonky engravings, weird shapes, angles, lines, colors and carbon fiber veneer (real or not) sticker nonsense.
The plugs were painted aluminum gray with model paint. I also painted the DNA board's fitments to match.
Press fit, and a drop of model cement on the backside holds them in. While the glue was still wet I gently pushed the plugs back, from the front, until they were reassessed to match the DNA board's plugs.
This photo is a bit magnified, highlight-y and unforgiving, at normal viewing distances and lighting it looks nearly flawless.
The lighting seems to show the left side being brighter, but it's not, it's just the way it's lit.
The upper left hole had a small drill imperfection, but I left it there in all its raw glory. I may file it out at some point.
It could maybe use a few more strokes with the scrub pad to get the brushed finish perfected.
The other side of the mod was given the same treatment, of course, and they look identical.
Overall, the raw curb appeal, material choices and minimal design of the mod, now with the cheesy stickers removed, definitely has a high-end mod vibe.
I shall sit at my local vape shop's HEMO snob table with a fair amount of impunity; DNA 200 style.
This is the only DNA 200 mod I feel this way about, at the moment. To me, everything else is a freak show of gaudy logotypes, over-the-top branding, wonky engravings, weird shapes, angles, lines, colors and carbon fiber veneer (real or not) sticker nonsense.
Last edited:
I walked into my local vape store this afternoon and they had three Efusion DNA 200's.
So shiny! They were going for the equivalent of $149 USD, needless to say they only have two left now.
In the last couple of hours I've thrown two atty's on. Both with simple kanthal dual coils, and both give strange ohms readings.
The first reads 0.65ohms on both my DNA 40 devices and 0.69ohms on the DNA 200.
The second reads 0.6ohms on both my DNA40's and 0.63ohms on the DNA200.
Anyone got any idea's as to what's going on?
I'll admit that as my laptop has died on me I've not loaded the Escribe software yet. I'll do it at work tomorrow morning.
I know to check the battery capacity is reading 14.43w (1300Mah), can someone tell me what the Efusion DNA200's internal resistance is supposed to be set to? And what menu this is set under?
Second issue. The 510 seems strange. Both attys have a 3mm gap between the atty and the MOD when tightened normally. I have to apply a bit more torque than usual but then they do screw down completely flush. It's not a big problem, but feels strange to apply the extra pressure when screwing the atty down.
Is this normal for the Efusion?
P.S. The ohms reading is the same either with the 3mm gap or with the atty completely flush.
So shiny! They were going for the equivalent of $149 USD, needless to say they only have two left now.
In the last couple of hours I've thrown two atty's on. Both with simple kanthal dual coils, and both give strange ohms readings.
The first reads 0.65ohms on both my DNA 40 devices and 0.69ohms on the DNA 200.
The second reads 0.6ohms on both my DNA40's and 0.63ohms on the DNA200.
Anyone got any idea's as to what's going on?
I'll admit that as my laptop has died on me I've not loaded the Escribe software yet. I'll do it at work tomorrow morning.
I know to check the battery capacity is reading 14.43w (1300Mah), can someone tell me what the Efusion DNA200's internal resistance is supposed to be set to? And what menu this is set under?
Second issue. The 510 seems strange. Both attys have a 3mm gap between the atty and the MOD when tightened normally. I have to apply a bit more torque than usual but then they do screw down completely flush. It's not a big problem, but feels strange to apply the extra pressure when screwing the atty down.
Is this normal for the Efusion?
P.S. The ohms reading is the same either with the 3mm gap or with the atty completely flush.
Ok I re-read this thread an download the Evolv file for the Efusion DNA200 "LostVape1300Mah.ecig", onto my phone. I'll try loading this into th DNA200 via Escribe tomorrow (I'm guessing that's how it works).
Hope it fixes my ohms reading issue.
Hope it fixes my ohms reading issue.
Update: After a bit of messing around I was able to upload the LostVape1300mah.ecig file.
I had to manually load the Escribe installer from the Evolv DNA 200 forum first, as this was the only way to get Escribe to show the latest version 1.0.35.2.
At last the Escribe and the Efusion are talking to each other, and behavign as expected.
The LostVape1300mah file uploaded the following manufacturer settings:
Theme: Welcome (Primary) now says Lost Vape
Battery Capacity now reads 13.68Wh
Mod Resistance now reads 0.006
Case Cooling Time Constant = 215.23
Case Heating Time Constant = 214.53
Case USB Charge Temperature Rise = 10.28 / 17.3
Minimum Ambiet Temperature = -20
Maximum Ambient Temperature = 110
I'm now very happy with Escribe and the DNA 200.
The issue I had with the 510 being very tight, is a bit of a non-issue. I think the Efusion just has a very stiff spring under the center pin, it seems to be easing a little with time.
The DNA 200 is still reading my Kanthal builds +0.02-0.04 higher than my DNA 40's though?
Anyone else notice this?
I had to manually load the Escribe installer from the Evolv DNA 200 forum first, as this was the only way to get Escribe to show the latest version 1.0.35.2.
At last the Escribe and the Efusion are talking to each other, and behavign as expected.
The LostVape1300mah file uploaded the following manufacturer settings:
Theme: Welcome (Primary) now says Lost Vape
Battery Capacity now reads 13.68Wh
Mod Resistance now reads 0.006
Case Cooling Time Constant = 215.23
Case Heating Time Constant = 214.53
Case USB Charge Temperature Rise = 10.28 / 17.3
Minimum Ambiet Temperature = -20
Maximum Ambient Temperature = 110
I'm now very happy with Escribe and the DNA 200.
The issue I had with the 510 being very tight, is a bit of a non-issue. I think the Efusion just has a very stiff spring under the center pin, it seems to be easing a little with time.
The DNA 200 is still reading my Kanthal builds +0.02-0.04 higher than my DNA 40's though?
Anyone else notice this?
is your mod resistance filled in to the correct value under mod-electrical section. if it's 0 it should be changed so your attys will read correctly
@AtmizrOpin
Yes I just downloaded the LostVape1300Mah.ecig file which Evolv developed for the Efusion DNA 200, and this put the Mod Resisitance to 0.006ohms, and should be the correct manufacturer setting.
It didn't appear to change the ohms readings I'm getting though.
I don't know what to make of it. I should say the Efusion DNA 200 is providing a fantastic vape in Kanthal mode. Set to the same power as the DNA40 it just feels like a smoother more refined vape.
Just don't know what the 0.03ohm reading difference will mean when I try Ni200 in Temp mode.
Hoping someone hear can shed some light on this.
In normal practice we are talking about three 1/100s of an ohm difference. That's not a big deal, but I understand your concern with Ni200 (some of my dual coil builds are as low as .06 ohms-.03 would be half of that). Why it's happening is because one or both devices are a tad off. The only way to know which one would be to read them (attys) with an accurate ohm meter. I'm pretty sure if I put a .6 ohm coil on 3 different mods I would see a slight variance between them. That's the best answer I can give you.
Cheers,
Steve
I went back to the store where I purchased the Efusion DNA 200 today and tried my atty on another Efusion DNA 200. It also read the ohms at 0.70, +0.03 over my DNA 40's reading.
I also picked up a new Vapor Flask DNA 40 (Woo hoo!), which read the atty the same as my old VF DNA 40.
So there seems to be a consistancy between the DNA40 reading 0.03 lower than the Efusion DNA 200 (I've now used 2 VF DNA40's and a VS rDNA40).
The Efusion is the only DNA 200 they have in store, but they hope to get other models in soon. So it will be interesting to see if other models of DNA 200 also read 0.03 above DNA40's.
Anyone else noticed this?
P.S. All tests were with Dual or Quad coil Kanthal builds in the 0.7 to 0.4 range.
I plan to do some tests with Ni200 over the next few days.
I also picked up a new Vapor Flask DNA 40 (Woo hoo!), which read the atty the same as my old VF DNA 40.
So there seems to be a consistancy between the DNA40 reading 0.03 lower than the Efusion DNA 200 (I've now used 2 VF DNA40's and a VS rDNA40).
The Efusion is the only DNA 200 they have in store, but they hope to get other models in soon. So it will be interesting to see if other models of DNA 200 also read 0.03 above DNA40's.
Anyone else noticed this?
P.S. All tests were with Dual or Quad coil Kanthal builds in the 0.7 to 0.4 range.
I plan to do some tests with Ni200 over the next few days.
My beloved Efusion died suddenly after one week of use. It is not recognized by Escribe, so, either dead board or blown fuse on the board. I hope eciggity.com will help me out.
Edit: They've already sent me a return shipping label and asked to choose from refund, replacement or store credit options. I'm choosing replacement. Nice company to deal with.
Edit: They've already sent me a return shipping label and asked to choose from refund, replacement or store credit options. I'm choosing replacement. Nice company to deal with.
Last edited:
Another Update:
I've now run both Ni200 and Ti builds on the Efusion DNA200, and looked at the ohms reading of these builds when attached to all three of my DNA40's.
All builds between 0.16 and 0.21 Ohms.
The DNA40 and DNA200 give far closer readings with TC wire at these ranges, only conflicting by a maximum of 0.01 ohms.
I'm therefore concluding that both the DNA40 and DNA200 are configured to be more accurate when reading extreme low ohms (which would make sense as they have been largely designed for use with TC builds).
I've now run both Ni200 and Ti builds on the Efusion DNA200, and looked at the ohms reading of these builds when attached to all three of my DNA40's.
All builds between 0.16 and 0.21 Ohms.
The DNA40 and DNA200 give far closer readings with TC wire at these ranges, only conflicting by a maximum of 0.01 ohms.
I'm therefore concluding that both the DNA40 and DNA200 are configured to be more accurate when reading extreme low ohms (which would make sense as they have been largely designed for use with TC builds).
DNA200's and DNA40's reading the same here....DNA25 also spot on...
mine with the clear carbon fiber got juice all over it. now the cf is a little rough feeling. anyone know if i can fix it? otherwise i might go for the polished sides which is nice too. unless they would send me replacement panels. strange that juice ate at it. you would think they would use a resin tthat held up to juice for this application. it is glossy. most cf is left raw and i think they should have done so. if it is even real. actually the clear one is probably fiberglass anyways. i suppose i could strip it to a matte finish too. if indeed it is real. maybe someone could advise me before i destroy the panels altogether. i also heard of people peel it off and it cracked. so much for user replaceable battery.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
