making hybrid safe for attys with flush 510 centerpin

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Feldrod

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Hello.
I know I will be mocked that I should't bought hybrid for flush 510 attys, I didn't buy it for that. But I was wondering. Is there any way to make flush attys safe for hybrids? Like something like those 510 heat spreaders could work if they have protruding or adjustable 510. I found a way to make nautilus 2 work without that but it isn't something I'd trust (taking off the rubber from coil threading and screw the coil as hard as possible - that makes the centerpin protrude a bit as it is pushed from the coil out) but I'd like to know some safer method.
 
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bombastinator

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It’s not impossible, but it would depend heavily on how narrow the center pin on the heat spreader would be. The problem with hybrid mods is the center pin literally sits on the battery making for an effectively really wide center pin. If you can get around that you may have something. The heat spreader itself would of course need a protruding center pin to avoid a short
 

Feldrod

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Sep 28, 2017
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I was also thinking. My brother-in-law works with CNCs. Maybe if he could do a copy of NT2s centerpin but little longer it could work. (Using same principle as with taking off the rubber off coilhead - the coilhead would push the centerpin out and not allow it to go back)
I just don't want to get rid of that Nautilus :/
It was my first MTL tank that showed me the beauty of MTL and I have some thing for that.
Altho I have hybrid-safe MTL RTA coming I just want to make it work. Just for the lolz.
 
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Baditude

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(taking off the rubber from coil threading and screw the coil as hard as possible
I'd think that rubber is there for a purpose...like maybe being used as an insulator? And you're going to put that on a direct battery mechanical mod? Good luck with that.
Using pre-built coil heads on mechs isn't a good idea, faux hybrid (real hybrids at something very different) or not.
I agree with Ken. My father was a carpenter by trade and often told me to use the right tool for the job. You know what you need to use with a faux hybrid. No shortcuts allowed.

You're either a very brave or very foolish person to use a hybrid top mech. I know I would never trust or use one myself.
 
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Feldrod

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Sep 28, 2017
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I'd think that rubber is there for a purpose...like maybe being used as an insulator? And you're going to put that on a direct battery mechanical mod? Good luck with that.
I agree with Ken. My father was a carpenter by trade and often told me to use the right tool for the job. You know what you need to use with a faux hybrid. No shortcuts allowed.

You're either a very brave or very foolish person to use a hybrid top mech. I know I would never trust or use one myself.
It definitely is not insulator. Insulator is between the coil's pin and treading. The rubber I took of is above the threading. The role of it is to prevent leaking but when screwed all the way down it does not leak.
EDIT:
I see nothing wrong with using coilheads on mech mods (hybrid or not, it doesn't play role in this) as long as I check them in resistance meter or in a regulated mod - which I do everytime coilhead or rebuildable.
And as I said. I do not want to "use it". My daily driver is Velocity Mini until my Siren 2 will arrive from GB. I just want one more excuse to not throw it away.
 

Steve Parry

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I really, really, really don't understand this. The point of a hybrid top cap mech is to reduce voltage drop by eliminating a redundant contact point. Voltage drop is only a real problem in high amp draw setups. How much voltage drop were you getting with an Aspire Nautilus that you decided you had to go hybrid?

Basically what you're asking here is can you safely modify a Prius enough to safely pull a boat up and down hills. Yes, you can. Or, for less than $20 you can pick up a mech tube with a standard top cap that will be much safer. Or, you could put it on a regulated mod where voltage drop isn't much of an issue to begin with.
 
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Baditude

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It definitely is not insulator. Insulator is between the coil's pin and treading. The rubber I took of is above the threading. The role of it is to prevent leaking but when screwed all the way down it does not leak.
.
Do you mean the white rubber piece shown here on the right?

f6853_1024x1024.jpg
 
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Wheelin247

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To put it again in different. Nautilus isn't reason I bought hybrid.
The reasons are longevity of hybrids (or mechs in general) and that I like to tinker - hence this thread.
No I didn't remove that rubber. I know that one is insulation between positive and negative. Above the threading is one more o-ring

So I have a question, why don’t you spend a couple more bucks and get the “correct tool needed for the job” and buy a tank or RDA that you wouldn’t need to “modify” to fit what your trying to do. I’m sure you can find what you need for somewhat of a cheap price and then you can vape without the worry of blowing your hand and face off? I mean that would be the easier way to go about fixing the issue at hand the safe way. With mechs my friend, I wouldn’t want to modify anything to fit what I’m wanting to do. You mentioned you want to fix it before just tossing it and if I could spend $20-$30 and fix the issue safely and be able to keep the mod useful instead of tossing it, I would go that route. Just MHO and I’m sure a lot of people on here would agree. Your an adult and you are going to do what you are going to do so your going to take the responsibility. I’m just hoping I don’t read about you or see you on the news with your face blown off. You wouldn’t be asking about this if you wasn’t going to use it so I just hope you take the safe way out of this problem. Good luck!


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Baditude

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Long story short, a hybrid top mech just adds to the number of things you have to check on at least on a daily basis.

Why not get a mech that actually has some safety features included already?

Like a reliable insulated 510 connector.
A lockable fire button.
Non-metalic battery tray.
Vape fuse.​
 

untar

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I was also thinking. My brother-in-law works with CNCs.
That's just wasted CNC time that could be used to mill an atty or a mod. Something useful ;)

The whole heat sink idea doesn't make a lick of sense either, why would you use a hybrid and then increase internal resistance?

Doesn't matter anyways, like already stated above please don't use a drop in coil atty on a mech mod.
"The lolz" shouldn't supersede your survival instinct. If they do then I don't know how your lineage even made it this far
Keepo.png
 

Zaryk

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Just as everyone else said, you should not use a hybrid mod with a drop in coil tank. You are asking for problems, and it can get very serious very quickly. I understand you took measures to try to get your 510 pin to protrude some, but using anything with a floating 510 on a mod like that is not advised. All it takes is one small mistake and you now have a makeshift pipe bomb with a mouthpiece.
 

Feldrod

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I appreciate the care but I think I know what I am doing.
Again. I have hybrid-safe RTA coming (at least by what people say - Siren 2 22mm, if it will not be safe I will not use it, trust me) I also use Velocity Mini RDA right now.
Again. Reason why I want to try it is - why the hell not - and I know many of you will say I will blow my face off and that is really why am I finding safe way to do this.
Sorry guys but I'd appreciteate more some advice or experience then "I don't see point in doing that" because as long as I am not dangerous to others it is entirely my thing what I do. And just because I am trying to find a safe way I think I am not dangerous to myself. Personally I think using drop in coils is just as dangerous as rebuilding. Rather I'd say rebuilding is more dangerous than drop-in coils (excluding the whole floating center pin thing) just because there is muuuch (or should I sad mooch? :pervy: - sorry for that pun, couldn't resist) more room for user error.
 

Zaryk

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I appreciate the care but I think I know what I am doing.
Again. I have hybrid-safe RTA coming (at least by what people say - Siren 2 22mm, if it will not be safe I will not use it, trust me) I also use Velocity Mini RDA right now.
Again. Reason why I want to try it is - why the hell not - and I know many of you will say I will blow my face off and that is really why am I finding safe way to do this.
Sorry guys but I'd appreciteate more some advice or experience then "I don't see point in doing that" because as long as I am not dangerous to others it is entirely my thing what I do. And just because I am trying to find a safe way I think I am not dangerous to myself. Personally I think using drop in coils is just as dangerous as rebuilding. Rather I'd say rebuilding is more dangerous than drop-in coils (excluding the whole floating center pin thing) just because there is muuuch (or should I sad mooch? :pervy: - sorry for that pun, couldn't resist) more room for user error.

Drop in coils are not the problem with those tanks and never was part of the problem, the floating 510 pin is the problem. It doesn't take much to get one to push back into the tank and short out. I know you believe what you did to your coils fixed this, but it really didn't, you are just over stressing and fatigueing the metals (the metals in the coil are cheap and break fairly easy) by over tightening the parts. It will fail sooner or later, its just a matter of time.

Even if you are not using it around other people, you can still effect every one of us that vapes. When you end up hurting yourself doing exactly what manufacturers and other vapers are telling you is a bad idea and that you are using the wrong equipment together, it could end up fueling the fire of the people trying to get rid of vaping. Now, you can do whatever you want, but don't think it can not effect the rest of us if it goes bad because it is absolutely possible in this day and age.
 

Feldrod

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Sep 28, 2017
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Drop in coils are not the problem with those tanks and never was part of the problem, the floating 510 pin is the problem. It doesn't take much to get one to push back into the tank and short out. I know you believe what you did to your coils fixed this, but it really didn't, you are just over stressing and fatigueing the metals (the metals in the coil are cheap and break fairly easy) by over tightening the parts. It will fail sooner or later, its just a matter of time.

Even if you are not using it around other people, you can still effect every one of us that vapes. When you end up hurting yourself doing exactly what manufacturers and other vapers are telling you is a bad idea and that you are using the wrong equipment together, it could end up fueling the fire of the people trying to get rid of vaping. Now, you can do whatever you want, but don't think it can not effect the rest of us if it goes bad because it is absolutely possible in this day and age.
Im quite dissapointed with amount of ignorance shown here.
I will end it here as I have no mood nor time for this.
Honestly. It looks like you would be happier with someone blowing their face off rather than helping to find safer way. Also as I said. This just grows with ignorance as I bet that only one person max thoroughly read what I wrote.
 

Zaryk

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Drop in coils ARE part of the problem. The issue you are not discussing is the poor insulator which can easily tear. Don’t use these coils on a mech. Buy an RDA or a RTA instead.
You are right. Most drop in coils do have this issue, and it can cause serious issues. There are a whole lot of reasons to never use a drop in coil tank on a hybrid mech and not one good reason to use them on one.
 
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