Making the jump into rebuilding, few general questions and dna 40 questions

[Spizzel]

I have wanted to delve into rebuilding for a bit now but I recently received a Hana dna 40 so I figure it's about time I started. I do have a few intro questions though.

1. I want to be safe, first and foremost. I have been doing light research and want to do more about safety, ohms law and things that will make it so my face isn't blown off. Does anyone have any good links or sites they may personally recommend that would help me with this? (I've done general google searches but curious to ecf favorites)

2. Right now I've only been using clearomizers namely nautilus which have 1.8 ohm heads so I haven't researched sub ohming much. To my understanding ni 200 is a very low resistance wire, does this mean all builds will be sub-ohm?

3. The general consensus is nickel/temp control will be great for people new to rebuilding, Im assuming no wick burning being the main reason?

4. Is nickel really the way to go for someone new to rebuilding? The lack of info is intimidating but it seems like nickel is the future of vaping, well, it's what everyone is leading me to believe...

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

Rip Trippers recently posted two videos to his youtube channel. The first is basically how the dna40 works, and the second is how to build nickel coils for it. Good info in there. I don't have a dna40 mod yet, but I'm really intrigued and will probably get one in the near future. Good luck!

 

[Rsunderl]

I have wanted to delve into rebuilding for a bit now but I recently received a Hana dna 40 so I figure it's about time I started. I do have a few intro questions though.

1. I want to be safe, first and foremost. I have been doing light research and want to do more about safety, ohms law and things that will make it so my face isn't blown off. Does anyone have any good links or sites they may personally recommend that would help me with this? (I've done general google searches but curious to ecf favorites)

Good thinking about wanting to be safe. The Sub-ohm forum has some very good information about builing your own coils and safety - especially the two Stickies at the top of the forum. You can get there by clicking on this link: Sub-Ohm

2. Right now I've only been using clearomizers namely Nautilus which have 1.8 ohm heads so I haven't researched sub ohming much. To my understanding ni 200 is a very low resistance wire, does this mean all builds will be sub-ohm?

Low resistence wire means that it has a low resistance per length of wire. Not all of your coils will be sub-ohm because the actual final resistance will depend on how long of a wire you use for your coil. The longer the length of wire, the higher the resistance. Here's a link to a coil building calculator: Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

3. The general consensus is nickel/temp control will be great for people new to rebuilding, Im assuming no wick burning being the main reason?

It will be great for not only new builders, but for those of us who have been building coils for a while. Yes, the whole idea is to be able to set the desired temperature so that the chip kind of limits the power so as to target for that temperature and reduce the chance of dry hits and burning.

4. Is nickel really the way to go for someone new to rebuilding? The lack of info is intimidating but it seems like nickel is the future of vaping, well, it's what everyone is leading me to believe...

If memory serves me correctly (no guarantee there - LOL) it's nichrome or nickel chromium. But besides that, if you want to use the temperature controlling properties of the DNA40 chip, that's the type of wire that you would use. It's kind of a new idea to use that type of wire for a resistance wire, but it has been used quite a long time in NR-R-NR (No Resistance-Resistance-No Resistance) coils for quite a while. The idea for this kind of coil is that the leads are made of the lower resistance wire so they don't get how and scortch things like the gaskets - only the coil part (made of higher-resistance wire) gets hot.

Hope that helps and Happy Vaping!

 

[Spizzel]

Thank you Rsunderl that does help. I have been fooling around with the steam calculator some and it seems like it would take crazy wraps of ni200 to get above 1 ohm so I guess thats why i just thought all nickel coils will be sub-ohm.

So is it possible to get a cooler vape with sub-ohm? I prefer cooler vapes right now and it seems like when anyone talks about sub-ohm its about getting warmer and stronger TH's. With the temp control though I'm guessing you can get a cooler vape even with a nickel coil thats sub-ohm?

Sorry if these are dumb questions. I'm still in the process of researching but it's always nice to get first hand info from the pros on this site.

 

[wshanncap]

I don't own a box mod (yet) and I have never built with nickle, just good ole Kanthal. So I really can't say for certain what is better. But I do have a couple links I use a lot that you might like.
Ohms Law calculator
Coil Building calculator
The coil building calculator also has a tab for Battery Drain that shows you if you are pushing the limits of your battery.
Hope these help.

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

All your nickel builds will indeed be super sub-ohm, almost always between .1 and .2 ohm. That is what you need for temperature control though. From what I understand, as the wire heats up, the resistance rises as well. Never use nickel wire alone unless you're in temp control mode, I can't stress that enough!

 

[wheelie]

If you use 1.8 ohms coils that is a gr8 place to start. Then you don't have to worry much about blowing your face off as you said it. Get making good consistent coils for a month or two then go down if that what you want to do. Because you bought a mod that will go down low, quite frankly if one has to ask they are better just not to even go their yet. CHEERS!

 

[KenD]

Low resistence wire means that it has a low resistance per length of wire. Not all of your coils will be sub-ohm because the actual final resistance will depend on how long of a wire you use for your coil. The longer the length of wire, the higher the resistance. Here's a link to a coil building calculator: Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Effectively, all ni200 builds will be low sub ohm. In theory it's possible to build over 1 ohm with ni200 but the coil will be too big to fit any atomizer. Also, I think 1 ohm is the highest Evolv recommends for the DNA40, beyond that you won't get maximum watts. However, low sub ohm isn't a problem with the DNA40s safety features, and in addition ni200 coils increase in resistance when heated.

If memory serves me correctly (no guarantee there - LOL) it's nichrome or nickel chromium. But besides that, if you want to use the temperature controlling properties of the DNA40 chip, that's the type of wire that you would use. It's kind of a new idea to use that type of wire for a resistance wire, but it has been used quite a long time in NR-R-NR (No Resistance-Resistance-No Resistance) coils for quite a while. The idea for this kind of coil is that the leads are made of the lower resistance wire so they don't get how and scortch things like the gaskets - only the coil part (made of higher-resistance wire) gets hot.

Hope that helps and Happy Vaping!

Ni200 is pure nickel wire, different from nichrome. Titanium wire supposedly works with the temperature control of the chip, and it has significantly higher resistance per cm than ni200 (though not as high as kanthal or nichrome). The temperatures shown will not be accurate though so you'll need to adjust for that.

 

[Spizzel]

If you use 1.8 ohms coils that is a gr8 place to start. Then you don't have to worry much about blowing your face off as you said it. Get making good consistent coils for a month or two then go down if that what you want to do. Because you bought a mod that will go down low, quite frankly if one has to ask they are better just not to even go their yet. CHEERS!

So this why I'm questioning where to start. There is tons of info out there regarding standard kanthal builds that you can really customize your ohms depending on your awg and wraps. But to utlize the dna 40 to its fullest with the nickel all coils will be sub ohm to my understanding. So I'm not sure if I should just start with kanthal as sub-ohming is deemed for educated enthusiasts . Then I see a lot talking about how nickel is the new hot .... especially for noobs to rebuilding.

 

[Spizzel]

Effectively, all ni200 builds will be low sub ohm. In theory it's possible to build over 1 ohm with ni200 but the coil will be too big to fit any atomizer. Also, I think 1 ohm is the highest Evolv recommends for the DNA40, beyond that you won't get maximum watts. However, low sub ohm isn't a problem with the DNA40s safety features, and in addition ni200 coils increase in resistance when heated.



Ni200 is pure nickel wire, different from nichrome. Titanium wire supposedly works with the temperature control of the chip, and it has significantly higher resistance per cm than ni200 (though not as high as kanthal or nichrome). The temperatures shown will not be accurate though so you'll need to adjust for that.

I definitely want to use Ni200, especially if it's whats going to give me the most reliable temp/safety control. With sub-ohming though, obviously there is battery safety involved, but as someone new to wrapping coils should I steer away from trying to start with Ni200 even though it will provide great benefits in the form of temp control?

 

[KenD]

So this why I'm questioning where to start. There is tons of info out there regarding standard kanthal builds that you can really customize your ohms depending on your awg and wraps. But to utlize the dna 40 to its fullest with the nickel all coils will be sub ohm to my understanding. So I'm not sure if I should just start with kanthal as sub-ohming is deemed for educated enthusiasts . Then I see a lot talking about how nickel is the new hot .... especially for noobs to rebuilding.

Sub ohming in the DNA40 and ni200 wire is completely different than sub ohming with a mech mod and kanthal. The DNA40 is built for it and it has safety features.

For calculating builds, both ni200 and kanthal (and nichrome and titanium), check steam-engine.org

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

There's a big difference between sub-ohm vaping with kanthal and temp control vaping with ni200. As KenD said above, your device has built-in safety for the temp control builds. Ni200 is very soft, so I'd think it would be actually quite a bit easier than kanthal to learn coil building with. If you do go the kanthal route to start, use 28 or 30 gauge wire, and shoot for around 1.5 ohms (single coil) for your first builds. It's really up to you. You have a great device that will support either decision.

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

Sub ohming in the DNA40 and ni200 wire is completely different than sub ohming with a mech mod and kanthal. The DNA40 is built for it and it has safety features.

For calculating builds, both ni200 and kanthal (and nichrome and titanium), check steam-engine.org

Ha, one step ahead

 

[Spizzel]

Sub ohming in the DNA40 and ni200 wire is completely different than sub ohming with a mech mod and kanthal. The DNA40 is built for it and it has safety features.

For calculating builds, both ni200 and kanthal (and nichrome and titanium), check steam-engine.org

So basically I shouldn't be intimated by the fact that all Ni200 builds will be sub-ohm even though I have no experience with sub-ohm due to the functionality of the dna 40? Because right now it kind of is. When all I hear is "sub-oming is not for newbies!"

 

[KenD]

I should add; sub ohming with the DNA40 and temperature protection (if set properly) is in fact safer than vaping over 1 ohm on kanthal. You can set the temperature so that you won't char your wick or burn your liquid so hot that it produces potentially harmful chemicals. With kanthal you can't control that.

 

[RandyF]

Click the link in my signature. I posted a thread with some basic, but important information gathered from the various threads regarding building with Ni200. It should help you get started.

 

[Spizzel]

Click the link in my signature. I posted a thread with some basic, but important information gathered from the various threads regarding building with Ni200. It should help you get started.

Thanks Randy, I actually read that right after I posted this and had some great info. The screw for wrapping seems like an awesome idea and that coil in those pics looked really nice.

One more question, regarding battery safety. I know battery safety plays a big role in sub-ohming (and all forms of vaping), with Ni200 sub-ohming being a totally different beast than sub-ohming with kanthal, is it as important? Obviously I want to make sure I'm using batteries capable of handling my coil but when using the steam calc what % amp headroom is acceptable? Right now I have Sony vtc 4 2100 mah 30 amp.

 

[KenD]

Thanks Randy, I actually read that right after I posted this and had some great info. The screw for wrapping seems like an awesome idea and that coil in those pics looked really nice.

One more question, regarding battery safety. I know battery safety plays a big role in sub-ohming (and all forms of vaping), with Ni200 sub-ohming being a totally different beast than sub-ohming with kanthal, is it as important? Obviously I want to make sure I'm using batteries capable of handling my coil but when using the steam calc what % amp headroom is acceptable? Right now I have Sony vtc 4 2100 mah 30 amp.

The Sony VTC line of batteries have the highest amp rating currently, so your battery is great for the dna40. I believe that the Evolv recommends batteries with an amp limit of 16 or higher (I might remember incorrectly though). I'd recommend going with 20 amp batteries such as the LG he2, Samsung 20r and 25r, purple Efest 2500 mAh - or Sony VTCs 30 amps of course (just watch out for counterfeits, buy from trusted vendors).

 

[RandyF]

A VTC4 will be perfectly fine. You are not technically sub-ohming with Ni builds, the DNA40 is designed to work with the low resistance of nickel. I use 20amp batteries without issue in my rDNA.

 

[Spizzel]

The Sony VTC line of batteries have the highest amp rating currently, so your battery is great for the dna40. I believe that the Evolv recommends batteries with an amp limit of 16 or higher (I might remember incorrectly though). I'd recommend going with 20 amp batteries such as the LG he2, Samsung 20r and 25r, purple Efest 2500 mAh - or Sony VTCs 30 amps of course (just watch out for counterfeits, buy from trusted vendors).

Awesome, good to know I'm in a good spot battery wise. Thanks to all for the info, its been a HUGE help. Knowing now that Ni200 sub-ohming is different than kanthal, with the safety features of the dna 40 I feel much more comfortable making the step into rebuilding. Hopefully my next post here will be getting some opinions on a shopping list for my first build!