Mature Vapors (Immature ones too!)

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sandybeach

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Bwhare, I'm glad you brought that up. I was wondering about getting a mechanical mod. I'm not a tinkerer, so I don't know if it is good for me. I saw a cheapie one on Vapor Joe's email today - $20 for stainless steel knockoff.

I dunno about rebuildble attys. I hate futzing with stuff. Cloned rba $15.99 ATTY Rebuildable Atomizer with Clear Tank (2.5mL) - 1*airhole / 1.0

Mechanical $19.48 EA Telescoping Mech Mod E-Cigarette Battery Compartment - silver / stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Are these worth buying at all?
 

BWhare

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Those two are actually in my cart at the moment ;-)

One important note to be aware of: (okay, maybe two) The atty ships in seven days and the mod ships in three.

I recently ordered another atty and it shipped in seven days at the time (it's now immediate). That meant that the whole order sat at fasttech waiting for the last piece to arrive before they were packed and shipped. Then it was a day in Hong Kong, the next day in San Francisco, the following day in Indianapolis and the day after that it was delivered so even with the long wait, it arrived in good time.

There was speculation, a while back, that they have a lot of stock on hand and some things they have to order out for. That made sense at the time. Looking at the one I got recently, I'm now wondering if they're just advertising what they can get with a projected time referring to when they plan on getting a bunch in. I don't think that's the case but I've no actual contact so it's all supposition.

The I-Atty (that's what the box calls it) looks like it would be fairly simple to run. It's just a mesh screen with a kanthal coil. That's fairly easy to set up although if you decided to get it, it would be worthwhile reading up on the Z-Atty threads so you know what you might be facing. Or you could just stick with whatever you're already using because it'll probably fit. A full size Vivi Nova would probably look pretty good on an EA.

As for the EA clone, it's a lot like the KTS I have as far as the bottom spring and button are concerned. The EA is better, IMO, because it's stainless steel and won't have the tendency to wear away like the KTS does (just talking finishes here - not a great believer in plating). Also, it's a great price and hopefully they won't discover that they've underpriced it anytime in the near future. The original was made in Finland and costs something like 150 € (which is way overpriced but it is what it is). Of course it's probably too nice to use every day anyway :D
 

BWhare

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I'm guessing that FastTech orders their clones from another company in China and has to wait a few days for the shipment to arrive before they can forward it on to you. It's only frustrating if you don't realize that there is actually a wait before shipping. If you know ahead of time, you just factor it all in ;-)

I've gone to mechanicals because they're tough and virtually impossible to kill. I don't like knowing that eventually, the eGo that I use out and about will one day die and there's nothing I can do about it - or with it once the affair is over. A mech will simply work until something wears out, at which point, I suppose I could look for a new part if they're still available or, since it will probably be a few years old, replace it with something else. I'm sure I wouldn't feel quite so cavalier about it if I were spending hundreds of dollars but then, if I could afford to blow that kind of money on a mech, I'd probably still feel the same way :)

I suppose there's a downside to mechanicals in that the voltage isn't consistent. It drops as the battery discharges. It doesn't really bother me as long as I can feel the vapor. My taste buds never returned so I'm no connoisseur of juices - I know what doesn't taste good and avoid it and I know what is alright so I make that. When I notice that the voltage drop is affecting the experience it's time to check the battery. Of course you could buy a Kick or a Crown to regulate the voltage but, to me, that just mirrors the eGo problem - eventually it will die.

My little Xtar only does a single battery but I've got the spacers to accommodate a range of batteries and it does the job well - happy camper :laugh:


Hmmm - ECF really doesn't like a lot of the words I use - I have to keep adding them to the dictionary (although I think I'll allow "ECF" to continue to be a glaring error - it should have fixed itself).
 

moishesmom

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@ Sandy...Thanks for the info on your "very cute" little pacifier. I chug on a 18650 batt so a small one would last approx 2 seconds for me. How long does it last you? Actually, it would be an excellent back-up in an emergency situation....hmmm...what size batt does it take? Sorry about all the questions but it sure is cute.....
 

BWhare

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So what voltage does the mechanical vape at? Does it feel similar to a 3.7 device, or is it more power?

I have a box mod that uses two 18650 batteries -- it does go down in power as the batteries discharge, but if I keep turning the voltage up I don't notice it.

A "true" mechanical has no wires and no electronics so if you start with a freshly charged battery it pumps out 4.1 - 4.2 volts depending on the cutoff point of your charger. It's all downhill from there ;-)

I suppose it's rather unforgiving in that everything depends on your coils. You use lower ohm coils for a warmer vape so you have to buy whatever heads suit your tastes. That's where building your own is handy - you adjust to what you like. It's not as convenient as dialing your voltage to a preferred level and nothing like setting your wattage and forgetting it (but it's a lot more interesting).

I can see where a lot of people would never be bothered with a mechanical because it's not the least bit consistent on one level but it has a hidden advantage that no one seems to document. If you have an ADV, you'll notice that you frequently have to change flavors just to keep your taste buds active and avoid the dreaded vapors' tongue. With a system that constantly drops in voltage and then leaps with each fresh battery, your buds don't get bored at all. Of course, this is coming from someone whose mouth can barely differentiate between cherry and raspberry. (I have yet to find a chocolate I can taste or a coffee that tastes tolerable.)
 

sandybeach

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Is THAT what it's called!!!!? Wow, I never knew why I keep changing flavors. So I have a bunch of Vivi Novas and I usually use the 2.8 heads. I have a bunch of 2.4 and 1.8's that are just sitting around unused. If I get a mechanical, should I try those? And maybe get a Kick?

I'm thinking if I use a 18650 the voltage may stay higher for longer? What about a 18350? I'm assuming they can take different size batteries?
 

BWhare

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My thoughts on the kick are rather limited. I could never justify buying one as eventually it'll die and if I've fallen in love with it, I'd have to buy another (and I got into this whole thing to stop spending). It would definitely regulate your voltage but (you had to know there was a but coming) it limits you in your choice of batteries. If you have a normal telescopic mech, you can usually use 350's, 500's and 650's. With a kick added, you lose the option of using 650's because the tube isn't long enough to take both the battery and kick together. There are probably some mechs that allow you to buy extra tubes to accommodate a kick but I don't have them for obvious reasons.

I suppose, with a mech, you could set up a bunch of vivi novas with different heads and just change them as the day goes by and the voltage drops. That would work - and you'd get to use up some of your spares - knew there'd be a silver lining in here somewhere :2cool:

I like my mechs in 18350 mode because they're compact and feel really sturdy. Unfortunately, they don't last long. I manage to get two or three hours out of one before it starts dropping off in an unacceptable manner. One thing I've found so far is that buying a battery with fire in its name may be a mistake. At this time I use the Panasonic CGR's for 650 mode, I think I'll try the Sanyo's for 500 mode (when I get a round tuit) and my next 350's will have to be AW's because there doesn't seem to be much else around. Well maybe EFest but I don't know enough about them.

Well, I've noticed that, even with a fresh 18650 installed, something is lacking - time to dry burn the wire/mesh. Another two minutes of my life I'll never get back.....
 

elmattias

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My thoughts on the kick are rather limited. I could never justify buying one as eventually it'll die and if I've fallen in love with it, I'd have to buy another (and I got into this whole thing to stop spending). It would definitely regulate your voltage but (you had to know there was a but coming) it limits you in your choice of batteries. If you have a normal telescopic mech, you can usually use 350's, 500's and 650's. With a kick added, you lose the option of using 650's because the tube isn't long enough to take both the battery and kick together. There are probably some mechs that allow you to buy extra tubes to accommodate a kick but I don't have them for obvious reasons.

I suppose, with a mech, you could set up a bunch of vivi novas with different heads and just change them as the day goes by and the voltage drops. That would work - and you'd get to use up some of your spares - knew there'd be a silver lining in here somewhere :2cool:

I like my mechs in 18350 mode because they're compact and feel really sturdy. Unfortunately, they don't last long. I manage to get two or three hours out of one before it starts dropping off in an unacceptable manner. One thing I've found so far is that buying a battery with fire in its name may be a mistake. At this time I use the Panasonic CGR's for 650 mode, I think I'll try the Sanyo's for 500 mode (when I get a round tuit) and my next 350's will have to be AW's because there doesn't seem to be much else around. Well maybe EFest but I don't know enough about them.

Well, I've noticed that, even with a fresh 18650 installed, something is lacking - time to dry burn the wire/mesh. Another two minutes of my life I'll never get back.....

There are certain mechanical mods that allow the use of a 650 plus kick

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sandybeach

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Feral Kitty, Nice going on no cigs!

Matt, thanks for telling me - just let me know what kind of mechanical mod you guys think I should get

BWhare - Thanks for all the great info. I don't buy any Trustfire, etc., batteries either. I like the Panasonics, the AWs are just okay. I have a boatload of batteries I alternate, so I am probably good for now. Some of them are not button top, and where I need button top, I just put rare earth magnets on the tops.
 

BWhare

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Some of them are not button top, and where I need button top, I just put rare earth magnets on the tops.

I have to wonder about putting magnets on the top of batteries where mechanicals are concerned. As the whole tube is part of the circuit, if a magnet slipped and touched the side, it could cause a short.

Most mechanicals have either a post or a spring at the positive end so you could use a flat top battery. If the battery is too short to connect, the magnet would go on the bottom where it's safe to slide around accidentally.
 

elmattias

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I have to wonder about putting magnets on the top of batteries where mechanicals are concerned. As the whole tube is part of the circuit, if a magnet slipped and touched the side, it could cause a short.

Most mechanicals have either a post or a spring at the positive end so you could use a flat top battery. If the battery is too short to connect, the magnet would go on the bottom where it's safe to slide around accidentally.

Only thumb button mech I know of with a magnetic switch is the poldiac.

As far as mechanicals that can take the 650 and a kick, I think most of them are kind of expensive, the nzonic, ea mod, and nemesis are a few that come to mind right off

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sandybeach

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I have to wonder about putting magnets on the top of batteries where mechanicals are concerned. As the whole tube is part of the circuit, if a magnet slipped and touched the side, it could cause a short.

Most mechanicals have either a post or a spring at the positive end so you could use a flat top battery. If the battery is too short to connect, the magnet would go on the bottom where it's safe to slide around accidentally.

I dunno, I have some that are a bit too short that slip around, and the magnet has always stayed in place. Those are pretty strong magnets. Never had an issue with them (yet!) and I have been doing it a long time.
 

BWhare

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At the moment, if I had the funds, I'd go with the one you originally brought up.

FastTech EA Clone

Of course here's a place that has a variety of inexpensive clones.

Vapor Tek Mechanicals

There may be better prices around, but it's a place to start ;-)

The Smok Magneto is also rather nice, has a magnetic switch and everything, but it's about $20 more. I have a Sigelei 19b that I've converted to magnetic and it's kinda nice (but I'd prefer the Magneto).
 
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