Maximum Safe Amperage/Voltage/Wattage for a coil

[FMoody]

How can the maximum safe amps for a given coil be determined?

When I started vaping 3 years ago, I bought the Kanger Aerotank, and have stayed with that. The 2.0 ohm coils that came with it were rated for max EMF of 5.5 Volts (and hence, a max current of 2.75 amps [5.5/2] [ca. 15 Watts] ). Since I was using batteries whose max output was 4.5 V, the issue of max voltage was pretty much moot.

I have never seen any other coils' max voltage/amperage ratings. Where can such data be obtained? I ask because I am about to move up to a Reuleaux 200S, from eGo Twist batteries, and I need to know what the max safe power rating may be for a particular coil, since the new unit can very quickly and easily burn out the coils for the Aerotank if I run it too high.

Anyone know where to find such data?

Thanks in advance for any enlightenment you may be able to offer.

 

[djsvapour]

Anyone know where to find such data?

Most coils are rated in watts.
Some old coils used volts.
No coils I have ever seen use amps.

Beware 'optimistic' watts ratings on coils. Vape at the lower end when possible.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

The answer is always the same, start off at a low power setting & work your way up taking a few vapes on each one until you find what you like.
If you get an odd, off, dry, funky or burnt taste, turn the power down.

With something such as the areotank, Ω x2 = general starting point in volts.
So, 2Ω x 2 = 4v, or, 4v/2Ω = 8 watts as a starting point, adjust up/down to find what works best for you.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

How can the maximum safe amps for a given coil be determined?

When I started vaping 3 years ago, I bought the Kanger Aerotank, and have stayed with that. The 2.0 ohm coils that came with it were rated for max EMF of 5.5 Volts (and hence, a max current of 2.75 amps [5.5/2] [ca. 15 Watts] ). Since I was using batteries whose max output was 4.5 V, the issue of max voltage was pretty much moot.

I have never seen any other coils' max voltage/amperage ratings. Where can such data be obtained? I ask because I am about to move up to a Reuleaux 200S, from eGo Twist batteries, and I need to know what the max safe power rating may be for a particular coil, since the new unit can very quickly and easily burn out the coils for the Aerotank if I run it too high.

Anyone know where to find such data?

Thanks in advance for any enlightenment you may be able to offer.

If you're sticking to the Aerotank, just stay under the 12W, the tiny coils for it burns very easily, and 12W was the max I could go to before I'd end up burning them.

Most factory coils (cartridges) will state the "range" on either the box or have it on the cartridge itself.

Note that it's a pretty huge mod for such a tank.

 

[FMoody]

I have a ton of old Kanger factory coils, and they do have writing on them that I can't read.

Well, one of the reasons I've asked this question was to get some information for choosing a new tank. I do NOT want to go sub-ohm, but I DO want a heftier coil that I can run some power through.

I haven't found any such coils on offer for the Kanger Aerotank.

So let me ask the question directly: what Standard Tank uses coils that will handle 20, 30 or more Watts? Resistance at least 1.5 ohm, preferably 2.0 or greater. I don't have the eyesight or the physical dexterity to make my own.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

99% of above ohm replaceable head type delivery devices will not work well in your 20+ watt power range, lots of dry, burnt hits & very short head life.

The reason folks need/like/want higher output power devices is to have sufficient power to use lower resistances.

Is there a reason you want to vape at a higher power level?
It certainly isn't necessary to get an excellent vape.

The nautilus, nautilus 2, triton mini, vika fantasy, kabuki, ego one cl 1.0Ω , eleaf gs air, beyond vape silo & a few others would be a large step up from an aerotank. The wicking ability is multitudes better than the tiny aertonk heads.
But none will work well in your 20 - 30+watt power range.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I have a ton of old Kanger factory coils, and they do have writing on them that I can't read.

Well, one of the reasons I've asked this question was to get some information for choosing a new tank. I do NOT want to go sub-ohm, but I DO want a heftier coil that I can run some power through.

I haven't found any such coils on offer for the Kanger Aerotank.

So let me ask the question directly: what Standard Tank uses coils that will handle 20, 30 or more Watts? Resistance at least 1.5 ohm, preferably 2.0 or greater. I don't have the eyesight or the physical dexterity to make my own.

If you'd like the "best standard factory coil cartridge", there is a "family" of various tanks from different manufacturers that share the same design, as it's a very well proven design.

Aspire Atlantis or Triton tanks
Eleaf Melo tanks.(1,2 and 3 versions)
Vaperasso tanks that uses the cCell cartridges
Freemax Scylla (and other models)
And even more....

The beauty of it, is that just about any store (online or brick) will carry some of these, plus the selection is the largest for any "cartridge", so you can try a bunch of them until you find the type of cartridge that you prefer. From claptons, to temp control, to high ohms, to low ohms, cotton or ceramic....

Now, you must note that most are sub-ohm, but then, the Aerotank does have sub-ohm cartridges also, but my point is that you need not worry about that.. sub-ohm is about coils that heat up faster, nothing more, I can have a 0.2 ohm or a 1ohm build and all I have to do is adjust my wattage and such and get just about the exact same experience from both... you can vape mouth to lung, direct lung, have it cool or warm, it's all about how you prefer to vape and simply adjust your settings for it. The only difference would be the "potential" for amount of vapour and warmth would be different between the two coils, but with regulated mods now, even that's limited (the difference).

All you have to do is use lower wattage, close the airflow and you'll have a similar experience to the aerotank... if you want more airflow, more vapour, you simply increase the wattage and open the airflow a bit more.

If you would want recommendations for these, I'd say that the "favourites" at my house are the Eleaf Melo 2, the Aspire Triton (v1), and the Freemax Scylla.

For coils, I've stuck with the Vaperasso cCell (ceramic type) but mostly because they are easy to rebuild.

Note that the Freemax Scylla is the only one that's a bit picky and prefers the cCell, as the other cartridges tend to leak a bit due to being a fraction shorter and not sealing as well in this tank.

 

[djsvapour]

I have a ton of old Kanger factory coils, and they do have writing on them that I can't read.

Well, one of the reasons I've asked this question was to get some information for choosing a new tank. I do NOT want to go sub-ohm, but I DO want a heftier coil that I can run some power through.

I haven't found any such coils on offer for the Kanger Aerotank.

So let me ask the question directly: what Standard Tank uses coils that will handle 20, 30 or more Watts? Resistance at least 1.5 ohm, preferably 2.0 or greater. I don't have the eyesight or the physical dexterity to make my own.

You are going to struggle @FMoody

Can I be honest? I'm not quite sure what you are getting at here. I use Sub-ohm coils more often than not, but I vape at non-Sub-ohm power more often than not. (Not at home, you understand...)

With respect (and admiration too!), worrying about Sub-ohm resistances is not what you should be investigating. If you are intending to vape MTL (mouth to lung).. how much vapor can you manage before needing to 'gulp' it back with a direct inhale. If you could find a 1.5 ohm resistance coil capable of reaching 20w (unlikely) would you still be inhaling MTL?

I don't think I have vaped much higher than 18 or 20 watts with a MTL.

You are on the right tracks though because most Sub-ohm coils do have a design to allow more airflow.

It's complicated. Either way, you can use up your stock of Kanger coils while you work out what to do.

 

[FMoody]

Thank you, folks, for giving the benefit of your experience.

The main reason I am going with a box mod is that it is getting harder and harder to find decent eGo Twist batteries. The first set I bought, lo these many moons ago, finally crapped out about a year past. I've had very bad luck since, having to replace new Twists every few months. I just decided to go with a box mod with rechargeable batteries. 18650 li-ions are easily found.

Having made that leap, it seemed logical to find out what wattage range was safe to use for different coils, since I will soon have the ability to push a LOT of watts through a coil. I don't want to have to do trial and error, ruining a trainload of coils before I know how much is too much. Which led to my original question.

So, I will start investigating the tanks mentioned above.

Again, my thanks.

 

[Grimwald]

I use box mods for shape and battery life. However, I pair them with normal MTL devices like Kayfuns, ego one, tron-s, cs air, protanks. All of these use 1.0-1.8 ohm coils. I rarely go above 10 watts and usually stay around 7-8 watts.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Thank you, folks, for giving the benefit of your experience.

The main reason I am going with a box mod is that it is getting harder and harder to find decent eGo Twist batteries. The first set I bought, lo these many moons ago, finally crapped out about a year past. I've had very bad luck since, having to replace new Twists every few months. I just decided to go with a box mod with rechargeable batteries. 18650 li-ions are easily found.

Having made that leap, it seemed logical to find out what wattage range was safe to use for different coils, since I will soon have the ability to push a LOT of watts through a coil. I don't want to have to do trial and error, ruining a trainload of coils before I know how much is too much. Which led to my original question.

So, I will start investigating the tanks mentioned above.

Again, my thanks.

Just know that it you were to stick with the Aerotank, the Reuleaux 200S is quite a large mod (I find) and there's been a fair amount of lemons, plus any tank with a long 510 pin tends to damage the connector. Personaly, it's not a mod I'd go for, but many do like it...

One very popular kit is the Eleaf Pico (with the Melo 3 tank) as the Pico has been an extremely solid mod and a favourite for many (and the small 18650 mod out there). Only thing, it's a single battery and with a tank going at 12W, it'll last all day, anything pulling 30W (or so), it'll die fairly fast it you vape enough.

Dual mods, the Smok Alien has been probably the most popular, and the second batch is pretty solid (the first batch had issues with it's paint coming off).

Price wise, both are quite affordable.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Forgot to mention, as you venture into the world of replaceable batteries (18650), please make sure that you read up on battery safety... these are lithium batteries, they HAVE to be respected. If you carry any spares, make sure that you get some silicone sleeves for them, and if the plastic wrap (or the ring on top) gets damaged, that it gets replaced properly.

 

[Vap3dz]

The max wattage for a coil should be automatically set on a regolated box mod. The formula is: MAX WATTAGE=(VOLTS)^2/OHM. A standard charged 18650 should be around 4 V. Lets say its with a 2.0 ohms coil. 4*4= 16V, 16V/2o = 8 W.
8Watts should be the maximum Wattage for that coil. At least my RX 2/3 caps the watt output with this formula.
Hope i've been usefull

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

The max wattage for a coil should be automatically set on a regolated box mod. The formula is: MAX WATTAGE=(VOLTS)^2/OHM. A standard charged 18650 should be around 4 V. Lets say its with a 2.0 ohms coil. 4*4= 16V, 16V/2o = 8 W.
8Watts should be the maximum Wattage for that coil. At least my RX 2/3 caps the watt output with this formula.
Hope i've been usefull

I've yet to see a single mod that "locks" the max wattage.
Did your formula and if it was true, then a 0.2 would lock at 80W, a 0.5 at 32W, and so on, which has never been a case for me, regardless of build, it's a case of not hitting a dry hit, so wicking makes a huge difference.

Your post puzzles me and I'd like to know more. Where did you find this info?

 

[Zakillah]

Sounds like "Mech logic" to me...calculate everything with 4V.
The post doesn't strike me as very insightful, to be perfectly honest.

 

[Vap3dz]

I've yet to see a single mod that "locks" the max wattage.
Did your formula and if it was true, then a 0.2 would lock at 80W, a 0.5 at 32W, and so on, which has never been a case for me, regardless of build, it's a case of not hitting a dry hit, so wicking makes a huge difference.

Your post puzzles me and I'd like to know more. Where did you find this info?

My mod (rx 2/3) has a max V output of 3V per battery. I use it with 2 normally which gives me 6V. I currently cant go above 42.4 W with 0.85 ohms. Which is sqrt(0.85 *42.4)=6V. It makes sense. I cant find it anymore but i read it somewhere. With every new coil the wattage gets capped to a new value given by the formula. I guess its a safety measure of the boxmod.

 

[Vap3dz]

I've yet to see a single mod that "locks" the max wattage.
Did your formula and if it was true, then a 0.2 would lock at 80W, a 0.5 at 32W, and so on, which has never been a case for me, regardless of build, it's a case of not hitting a dry hit, so wicking makes a huge difference.

Your post puzzles me and I'd like to know more. Where did you find this info?

dryburns are a result of bad wicking or not opening the juice control. U can get dryburns even at 1 watt if u dont put juice at all

 

[Vap3dz]

Sounds like "Mech logic" to me...calculate everything with 4V.
The post doesn't strike me as very insightful, to be perfectly honest.

U dont have to. I was just stating the fact that my mod caps the max W output in relation to the Voltage of the batteries and the resistance. Its just a safety measure i guess.

 

[Zakillah]

Its not a safety feature, its just the Voltage limitation of that mod. If you run it with 3 batteries, it can deliver 9 Volts. Most current mods are actually able to push 9 Volts; even single battery ones.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

My mod (rx 2/3) has a max V output of 3V per battery. I use it with 2 normally which gives me 6V. I currently cant go above 42.4 W with 0.85 ohms. Which is sqrt(0.85 *42.4)=6V. It makes sense. I cant find it anymore but i read it somewhere. With every new coil the wattage gets capped to a new value given by the formula. I guess its a safety measure of the boxmod.

That's interesting, I have over a dozen mods, and the max wattage is according to it being a single or dual battery, and not about the ohm reading of the coil.

Unless I've never tried to "cap" a build... but I've played plenty of times and can go from 1W to the max of the mod (be it 60, 75, 100, 120, 160W) regardless of tank (or RDA). My builds are everything from 0.15 to over 1ohm and never seen a difference is terms or the mod caring what was in it.

Maybe it's a DNA chip thing? (still no DNA for me yet, awaiting delivery of such a mod for months as it appears to have been shipped on the Titanic express)