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Hmm, what do you mean exactly by "be sure the 510 + connector is extended enuf beyond the negative threaded part of the addy" I have a little ring thing that is threaded in near the top of the mech tube. And then the addy just screws into that and that connects to the battery. My atty does have a pin that I have extended out pretty far. But as I said about the button it's kinda messed up and moves around abit when I press it and all that. Could that be a factor to why it is shorting? And the shorting it what is causing the burning and hot button?quit using it... its shorting out
recheck your connect points, check the ohms on the atty, be sure the 510 + connector is extended enuf beyound the negative threaded part of the atty and get a better battery... consider something like a VTC4 or better
My mech my mech doesn't seem to have a center pin just this little disk like thing that is threaded into the top on the mech tube. The pin on my RDA just touches the top of the battery. I would take a pic but every pic I take is apparently to big to upload.personaly i would ditch the batt and get your self a sony vtc4 or samsung 25r's that batterie might not have what it takes for that build, and will heat up and possibly go into thermal runaway, not good for you, also make sure the pos pin on the atty is making good contact with the centre pin on the mech, if the pos pin on the atty doesnt stick out enough and the sides touch it will short out.
Direct to the battery. I would upload a pic but apparently they are all to big to uploaddoes your atty make direct contact to the battery ( hybrid mod) or does the atty touch a pin in the top cap of the mod?
Here's what a protruding pin looks like.Hmm, what do you mean exactly by "be sure the 510 + connector is extended enuf beyond the negative threaded part of the addy"
Hmm ok I see what you guys are getting at. But the guy I bought it off gave me a tugboat RDA with it he was useing with it and it worked for him. And I have 2 RDAs. The infinite bullet and the velocity with an adjustable pin, I extended it as far as it can go and I can see down with a light in my mech mods tube that the copper part is passing the silver on the RDA and definatnly passing the little disk thing at the top of the mech tube. I don't get it lol. It does fire. Just not strong or anything. If the pins where not connecting it wouldn't be firing at all.the copper bit in the middle is the pos, that should stick out past the silver bit around it the neg thread View attachment 512998 View attachment 512999
I'm not exactly sure but it's about 7 wraps of 26 gauge around a 2.4mm drill bit so I'm assuming it's around 0.4 0.5 I'm not to sure I don't have a way to test it. I'm just building the coils I used to build on my box mod and remembering what ohms those coils used to be. I've also tried 7 wraps of 22gauge around 2.4mm and 9 wraps. But all did this same thing the 22 gauge barley even heated up lol.what ohm is the coil your using?
Ok well hopefully getting the Samsung 25r is. Going to fix this and I'll get a nice strong Vape. If not I'll be back here I guess. I hope the button doesn't still get hot.... I don't know why it did that in the first place all my connections are clean and my pin on my addy is very long for an extendable one like in my velocity. Mech might have beaten my level of Intel lol.i personaly wouldnt use that batt, as mentiond befor get a sony vtc4 or samsung, you could also try using a nipple top.
Maybe that's a problem too. I'm going to get one. I could have a good 0.2 ohm coil great for my mech but one good hotspot or two can make it hit like 0.8 0.9 can't it?Please, do yourself a favor and get a decent digital mm, so you know what you have. Don't assume anything.