Hi, I got into vaping about 2 months ago. I have some trouble with my mech mod and my rda. My mech mod is a fuhatten skyline clone. My battery is a LG HG2. My RDA is a big dripper clone and my build reads out to about .23 ohms. My problem is that recently my mech mod has not been producing very good clouds with my build, and I make sure to line up the air holes with the coils. When I place my RDA on my coil master tab and use it the vapor production seems to be bigger compared to when it is on my mech mod. My mech mod also sometimes miss hits, or does not fire. I think I may need to clean my mech mod, but am not sure. Also, the battery in my coil master tab is also a LG HG2
Mech mod trouble
- Thread starter Jonathan Hambly
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First thing I do when I have issues with my mechs is clean them.
I don't own that mod, but I did a quick Google search...Try adjusting the switch and 510 to make sure you're getting a good connection with your battery
I don't own that mod, but I did a quick Google search...Try adjusting the switch and 510 to make sure you're getting a good connection with your battery
Yesyrd
Yes, I always make sure my switch has a good connection with the battery.
Welcome @Jonathan Hambly to ECF 
As posted above, give it a good cleaning, make sure you get all the gunk out of the threads, you can also try adjusting the throw in the switch, if the throw is just a touch too short it may seem like its making a good connection but not quite enough, hope that helps and happy vaping!
As posted above, give it a good cleaning, make sure you get all the gunk out of the threads, you can also try adjusting the throw in the switch, if the throw is just a touch too short it may seem like its making a good connection but not quite enough, hope that helps and happy vaping!
Well obviously there's an issue completing the current in your mod if it's not firing. I'd start by cleaning all your contact points inside the mod. After that I would inspect the firing button spring, to make sure it's not worn out (if it is, I wouldn't buy that mod again, it shouldn't be worn after two months). You also may be experiencing a significant voltage drop in your mech, and that can just be due to poor machining. Not much you can do about it.
Oh, I didn't think of this before. I'm not 100% familiar with your reader. Can you change the wattage/voltage that you're firing the coil at on the reader? Because with your build, on a fresh battery, I'd expect your mech to be pulling around 76.6 watts, and 4.2 volts (the voltage of a fresh charge), of course, that's not accounting for any voltage drops. If your reader is set higher than that, that would account for your difference in vapor production.
And be careful. At .23 ohms you're getting pretty close to the amp limit for your batteries on a fresh charge. Any lower, even accidentally, you might be in trouble. If you enjoy very low subohming in a mech, I recommend you invest in a couple of high quality 30 amp batteries.
I'm just gonna leave this calculator here for you. I think you'll find it useful. Ohm's Law Calculator
Oh, I didn't think of this before. I'm not 100% familiar with your reader. Can you change the wattage/voltage that you're firing the coil at on the reader? Because with your build, on a fresh battery, I'd expect your mech to be pulling around 76.6 watts, and 4.2 volts (the voltage of a fresh charge), of course, that's not accounting for any voltage drops. If your reader is set higher than that, that would account for your difference in vapor production.
And be careful. At .23 ohms you're getting pretty close to the amp limit for your batteries on a fresh charge. Any lower, even accidentally, you might be in trouble. If you enjoy very low subohming in a mech, I recommend you invest in a couple of high quality 30 amp batteries.
I'm just gonna leave this calculator here for you. I think you'll find it useful. Ohm's Law Calculator
What batteries do you recommend? And with this coil master tab I'm pretty sure it works just like a mech mod. It does come with a voltage drop meter, what's the average voltage drop for a nice mod? Thanks lots
Well, voltage drop is going to very mod to mod, and possibly also with the topper you're using. In a really nice, well made mod, with a really nice, well made topper, made with the most conductive materials, with everything making an ideal connection, it'd be extremely minimal. In yours? No way I can say really. I don't even know if that's the problem. Like I said, start with cleaning. You may be able to get a volt meter for testing such things. And I'm not convinced your reader works like a mech mod. It's obviously got a computer in it. But the real issue is not knowing what wattage/voltage the reader is firing at. See, it's like this. If you had a regulated mod, and put an RDA on it, and set it at 30W, then amped it up to 50W, you'd expect to get more vapor at 50W right? I'm saying if your reader is supplying more power than your mech, it's going to produce more vapor, just by nature.
But I am convinced you've got an issue with something, just because your mod doesn't always fire. Start with cleaning. It really could be that simple. If that doesn't improve things, try polishing the threads, and inspecting the spring. Last resort? Just get a new mod. Clones, even very well made clones, aren't particularly expensive. In the past, I had the best luck with 1:1 clones in terms of quality.
As far as batteries go, I'm not the best person to ask. I've been out of the mech game for a while. Going to get back into it due to impending FDA regulations. I've got safety and Ohms law down, but I need to do more research on current battery tech. When I was using mech mods, the 30 amp Sonys VTC4s were pretty top of the line (don't get the VTC5s, they're great batteries with higher mah, but only rated for 20 amps). I imagine they're still great batteries to put in a mech, but there may be something better on the market now that I'm not aware of. Ima let someone else chime in on that because they may be able to give you a better recommendation than I can.
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1) Take the whole mod apart into bits, then polish and clean everything, and re-assemble, re-adjust everything, this will bring the normal voltage drop of the mod back up to full potential. Every firing of a mech creates micro-arcing at every junction, every thread of a mod, this becomes carbon, add in natural patena of metal aging, you get black tacky gunk which insulates the metal and creates more voltage drop.
2) The LG HG2 is a 20amp CDR battery, not a bad battery tbh, but 0.23ohm is pushing to far towards its maximum limits, in fact 0.35 to 0.5ohms is the optimal range for a 20amp battery. Still want to run a 0.23 you need a stronger battery, in this instance, I tell everyone, going to run a mech of any sort you need true 30amp CDR batteries, there are only 4 of these on the market, Sony VTC3, LG HB2, LG HB4, and LG HB6 (all 4 1500 to 1600mah, they sacrifice mah for their current output), after those you have to 25 and flexible batteries, which there are 3 of them, the LG HD2 and LG HD2C (25amps, 2000mah) and the King of Sub-ohming for the longest the Sony VTC4 (20amp factory spec, 23amp under independent testing, but flexible up to 28amps (2100mah)
3) You might be experience battery damage as well, if you abuse a battery as you have been doing pulling so many amps cooks a battery, 2months run time so far, yeah, I'd expect you to start seeing some major voltage sag by now with those LG HG2's
Thank you!! My coil master tab shows how much volts are in the battery and what it is firing at. I tried cleaning my mech mod and am about to see how it does.
All of the above info is just what Id recommend. Even the most expensive mech, no matter how well machined would need some minor cleaning after 2 months of use, especially if its the daily, all day mod.
Out of curiosity, how long has that build; coil/wick been in use? Might need some cleaning ( dry burning of coils, change of wicks etc. ) atomizers get dirty, constant heating and cooling of coils, pins etc , you might need to tighten the posts.
If you Fuhattan is copper or brass it needs to have the threads and contact cleaned as often as weekly. Stainless steel stays cleaner ( depending on quality of SS ) but not as conductive as brass , bronze, copper.
You might even need to clean the contacts on your battery. They tend to get oxidized also.
Out of curiosity, how long has that build; coil/wick been in use? Might need some cleaning ( dry burning of coils, change of wicks etc. ) atomizers get dirty, constant heating and cooling of coils, pins etc , you might need to tighten the posts.
If you Fuhattan is copper or brass it needs to have the threads and contact cleaned as often as weekly. Stainless steel stays cleaner ( depending on quality of SS ) but not as conductive as brass , bronze, copper.
You might even need to clean the contacts on your battery. They tend to get oxidized also.
Just cleaned and about to put a new build in. Update soon.
Oh wow are you sure about that? I know it's been a while, but I could have sworn those were 30amp batteries. A quick Google search seemed to confirm what I remembered. Have they been re-rated in the last couple of years?
My apologies if I was wrong.
Sony never really at first gave exact CDR specs on any of the VTC series, later they announced only the VTC3 was 30amps, and later after that rated the VTC4 and VTC5 as only 20amp batteries. This is where I learned to understand to get CDR you had to sacrifice Mah, to get Mah you had to sacrifice CDR, there is a balance manufacturers have to take with current battery technology as it is. Mooch tested the VTC4 and found though many "Retailers" say a VTC4 is a 30amp battery, under load the safest load is 23amps on the VTC4, though you can take them up higher, even the VTC3 only rated at 28amps safely, so the VTC4 has at least a 5amp wiggle flexibility, though push them past 23amps regularly, their life decreases as it damages them. Thus the reason I tell anyone that asks, the VTC4 is still pretty much the long time King of Mech Sub-Ohm Vaping, has the Mah, and a good CDR rating with the added benefit of being able to be pushed a bit furhter than its ratings and tested ratings, so as an alternate to a true 30amp battery like listed above, it like the HD2 and HD2C are viable balanced batteries for in mechs.
One of Mooch's Battery Charts I base my advice off of -
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/image-jpeg.555235/
Not that I ever built low enough for it to matter, but that's good to know. And also a little frightening. Why they gotta lie?
But also why I wanted someone else to chime in on batteries. My two year old+ knowledge can definitely be topped.
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Ok so I cleaned up the mech mod and put a dual clapton build reading at about .38 ohms. It hits very nice but cloud production still seems a little off for some reason. I am also thinking of getting a new mech mod clone. Any suggestions??
Well keep in mind that a .38 build isn't going to quite compare to a .23, all other variables being the same. What kind of air flow do you have with your RDA? If it's clouds you're after, you really want to open up that air flow. Perhaps you inadvertently choked it off at some point? And what's the Pg/Vg ratio for your juice? The more Vg you have, the bigger the clouds.
I'm glad to hear you're not experiencing hot spots on your mod anymore. For a new mech, um, well like I said before, I've had extremely good luck with 1:1 clones in the past. That is, exact replica clones. I know HCigar makes some. Again, I'm hesitant to give you a recommendation, as I've been out of the game for a while. I'm not really on the up and up of the latest and greatest. So if someone else chimes in here, I'd be more inclined to listen to them. That said, the Nemesis was always my favorite mod.
60 watts per cell=safe long battery life.
You got away with +75,, your battery is beat to death. Buy a new one.
Want .2 builds? Buy a 2 cell unregulated box mod.
Want clouds? Need airy big RDAs that support thick wire.
Maybe DIY,, big clouds big juice consumption..
You got away with +75,, your battery is beat to death. Buy a new one.
Want .2 builds? Buy a 2 cell unregulated box mod.
Want clouds? Need airy big RDAs that support thick wire.
Maybe DIY,, big clouds big juice consumption..
FTFY. 2 cell series like the Noisey cricket, lowest, safest build is about 0.5ohms (8.4v/0.5ohm=16.8amps both batteries have to carry)
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