Mechanical Mod/RBA safety question

[hyunuk253]

Hi guys, so still fairly new to the whole rebuildables and mechanical mods thing.
So this happened just now. for the second time. happened when I first made my nimbus and just now.
When I use my mechanical, it fires perfectly fine, and out of nowhere it just stopped.
I checked the battery and the mod all that, it was heated up really hot and it pushed the spring down to the point where it wasn't making any contact, thus the reason why it wasn't firing. This happened after using it for about 2 days on the same setup. At first I didn't realize it was the heat pushing the battery down and making the spring flat so I tried using the spare spring that came with it and same thing happened with one fire so.. Kinda got scared. took it all apart, fiddled with the coils/wicks a little bit and now it's not heating up anymore. Is there something I did that cause it to happen? Is it something I should be very concerned about at all?
Thank you guys!

 

[Baditude]

What was the ohm of the coil you made?

What battery are you using in the mech mod? Protected or IMR?

Are you using a multimeter?

You're definitely playing with fire having collapsed two hot springs in a row. This is one of the few safety features that a mech mod has when a battery has a hard short. You're lucky the battery didn't vent in thermal runaway. I suspect you had a bad short in the coil that you made, which caused the battery to short and that caused the springs to collapse. You're definitely doing something wrong.

 

[hyunuk253]

The coil was made for me at a vape shop when I bought the atomizer there. It looks to be the flat ribbon wire with 2/3 wrap single coil. I'm using AW IMR in a poldiac. And I don't have a multimeter ]: but my provari reads the ohms at .9. another update, as it was working perfectly fine again, i tightened down the atty into my mod to try and make it fit more flush and it did the same thing. could it possibly be from that?

 

[Brewdevil]

Having same problem but with a DCC rated 1.5. Still fires fine on SVD, but hot spring on sigelei 19 collapsed and I actually got a burn from the fire button. NEED some guidance from advanced team.

 

[hyunuk253]

Brewdevil for me the problem was when i tightened the atty too much onto the post. So when I adjusted it and just made it fit right it doesn't happen anymore BUT. I still want to know help guys please!

 

[Guts]

It also might be an insulator that is misplaced in the mod or the atty. Look at the center post of the mod and atty if there is anything that cause this short. And yeah a multimeter can help, a lot.

 

[hyunuk253]

What would be the use of a multimeter? to check the ohms/volts right?

 

[Baditude]

The coil was made for me at a vape shop when I bought the atomizer there. It looks to be the flat ribbon wire with 2/3 wrap single coil. I'm using AW IMR in a poldiac. And I don't have a multimeter ]: but my provari reads the ohms at .9. another update, as it was working perfectly fine again, i tightened down the atty into my mod to try and make it fit more flush and it did the same thing. could it possibly be from that?

I assume you mean the hot spring collapsed again? If so, that's a strong warning that you have a short in the coil or elsewhere which caused the hot spring to collapse. You are therefore also stressing the battery to the point of thermal runaway. I'm not familiar with the Nimbus RBA, so I can't offer any suggestions specifically with that RBA.

You need to remove all the e-liquid from your RBA. Then you need to do short pulse fires of the coil. After doing a few of those, fire the coil to observe how the coil glows. It should glow equally from top to bottom of the coil. If not, the hot spots need to be removed by adjusting the individual coils which glow the brightest.

If you don't know how to do the above, I strongly suggest taking your setup back to the vape shop that sold it and set it up for you. You certainly don't want to keep destroying hot springs, and you most certainly don't want to run the risk of hard-shorting your batteries to the point of them going into thermal runaway and venting hot gasses, and possibly starting a fire or worse.

This is an example of the very reason that newer vapors should not be using RBA's, and especially not using sub-1 ohm coils, IMO. It seems to me that you have not done the required research in knowing how to setup and properly operate an RBA.

The salesman who sold you the device was doing a disservice to you selling something as complicated and potentially dangerous as an RBA. Even if he gave you some basic instructions, it doesn't make up for not doing research yourself on your gear before using it. If you have to ask why a multimeter is important when using an RBA....you haven't done enough research yet.

Edit: Maybe I shouldn't have been so judgemental in the last paragraphs above, but I know nothing about you and your vaping history. I can only judge you by what you have posted in this thread. If my assumptions are wrong, I appologise. But it still sounds to me like you don't know what you are doing with an RBA. And this thread can not provide you with everything that you will need to know. I suggest going to the Rebuildable Atomizer sub-forum and doing some research. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/

A RBA in the hands of someone who doesn't know what they are doing is a potentially dangerous device.

 

[Ravalstoney]

Having same problem but with a DCC rated 1.5. Still fires fine on SVD, but hot spring on sigelei 19 collapsed and I actually got a burn from the fire button. NEED some guidance from advanced team.

Is the spring in your 19 the original that came with the mod? I've replaced the original spring in mine but I didn't look like a hot spring to me.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

 

[eratikmind]

The coil was made for me at a vape shop when I bought the atomizer there. It looks to be the flat ribbon wire with 2/3 wrap single coil. I'm using AW IMR in a poldiac. And I don't have a multimeter ]: but my provari reads the ohms at .9. another update, as it was working perfectly fine again, i tightened down the atty into my mod to try and make it fit more flush and it did the same thing. could it possibly be from that?

The Poldiac has an adjustable center pin. You should not be fiddling with the atty to adjust the gap.

Stop what you are doing and become fully familiar with your gear before you ruin an excellent device or hurt yourself.


- Andy . . . Challenge the day.

 

[Brewdevil]

Is the spring in your 19 the original that came with the mod? I've replaced the original spring in mine but I didn't look like a hot spring to me.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

the spring on the top collapsed and discolored. Can I replace it and how?, and what to do to prevent this

 

[Baditude]

the spring on the top collapsed and discolored. Can I replace it and how?, and what to do to prevent this

Contact the vendor where you bought your battery device about a replacement spring and how to replace it.

How to prevent this from happening again. Do your research in learning about how RBA's work, learn battery safety, learn the relationship between resistance and voltage, etc.

The link I gave you before is a start. Here's another one: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/warning-rechargeable-batteries-apvs-mods/

 

[Brewdevil]

Thanks, great info!, have spent countless hours reading and learning on this forum and every time I have a question or concern it is answered. I took the delrin assembly off of my stock head and the brass pin is almost flush with the top of the plastic. I swapped it with the nzonic clone magnet head pin which sticks out further and the cart will now fire. I am guessing it missed the connection on the other pin and caused battery to overheat collapsing the spring and heating up fire button. Does this sound about right? Again it is a sigelei 19b with a smok mega dual coil car to user on it rated 1.5 ohms

 

[Ravalstoney]

Thanks, great info!, have spent countless hours reading and learning on this forum and every time I have a question or concern it is answered. I took the delrin assembly off of my stock head and the brass pin is almost flush with the top of the plastic. I swapped it with the nzonic clone magnet head pin which sticks out further and the cart will now fire. I am guessing it missed the connection on the other pin and caused battery to overheat collapsing the spring and heating up fire button. Does this sound about right? Again it is a sigelei 19b with a smok mega dual coil car to user on it rated 1.5 ohms

Another issue that's been causing hot buttons in the #19A is the fact that the button doesn't always make contact with the body and would cause you to lose your ground connection. This was one of the big causes of the misfire issue. Im in a co-op for the 19B now and the rep stated that this one comes with an updated switch. Dont know what that means yet.
I didn't understand your answer to my original question. Does the hot spring in your 19B come standard now? Maybe this is the update I was referring to earlier. In pretty sure the spring in 19A is not a hot spring.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

 

[AttyPops]

Are you guys for real?

All of you (replacing hot springs with normal springs, or shorting connectors, or not having multi-meters) are poster boys for the "blows out teeth with a PV" club.

A) Make sure the PV's you are using are well vented.
B) Use IMR batteries if you need the amps. Or use protected batteries AND a fuse.
C) Know the equipment. You should detect a problem WAY sooner than when the hot spring trips. At the 1st misfire you need to check stuff.
D) Don't replace hot springs with "normal" springs.
E) Listen to Baditude and do some homework. And stay away from SLR for now. Use normal stuff until you get used to the PV. And a fuse if you can. (The normal stuff works with fuses...the SLR may over-amp them).
F) Connectors shouldn't short. So adjust it or get it fixed. Don't crank crap down on em.

I'm amazed at so many "Gee, I'm doing this (That could blow a PV up) and it might be wrong" posts in one thread. You guys wouldn't be...fishing for stories for some article, would you? Or be associated with any litigation...either side? OK. OK. Probably not. But wow.

 

[Jayboy86]

Its def shorting somwhere. If the coil is reading 0.9 ohms its gotta the connection b/w the mod and the atty. Make sure you aren't cranking down on your atty to make it sit flush atop the mod. Snug is enough. If the mod has an adjustable center pin, back if off (recess it), screw in your atty to where it sits flush, then adjust your mod's center pin to touch the center post of the atty snug and not too tight. If problems persist, seek professional help.

 

[Baditude]

Are you guys for real?

All of you (replacing hot springs with normal springs, or shorting connectors, or not having multi-meters) are poster boys for the "blows out teeth with a PV" club...I'm amazed at so many "Gee, I'm doing this (That could blow a PV up) and it might be wrong" posts in one thread...

Seems like we were just discussing this topic not more than a week ago, huh AttyPops? More and more new vapors are getting RBA's without knowing what they are getting into, and are going to "get their faces blown off".

I usually reserve the below graphic for special cases. It applies in this thread. No offense to the posters asking the questions here, but...

 

[AttyPops]

Well, that's harsh. But it may save some teeth.

It's never dumb to ask a question. But....WTH?

Bad....do you think it's possible to vent a single IMR in a PV to the explosive point? I know people have done it with other chemistry and stacked batteries...but for these? Are we over-reacting?

This is scary. To be sure. Even an IMR will vent a bit, as I understand it.

But this thread is also a poster child for ....."Look at all the stuff we did wrong and it didn't physically blow up".

So IDK. I guess that's what set off my ....suspicion.

 

[Ravalstoney]

I should clarify, "replaced the original spring" WITH A HOT SPRING AS THE ORIGINAL WAS NOT. Your reaction to what you perceived to have read wasn't harsh. There are groups of people wanting to ban e-cigs just based on the fact it looks like smoke and the last thing we need is to give ammunition but don't misunderstand what my question was. If my new mod comes with it already I won't have to jack around with it, that's all I was trying to find out.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

 

[Baditude]

Well, that's harsh. But it may save some teeth.

It's never dumb to ask a question. But....WTH?

Bad....do you think it's possible to vent a single IMR in a PV to the explosive point? I know people have done it with other chemistry and stacked batteries...but for these? Are we over-reacting?

This is scary. To be sure. Even an IMR will vent a bit, as I understand it.

But this thread is also a poster child for ....."Look at all the stuff we did wrong and it didn't physically blow up".

So IDK. I guess that's what set off my ....suspicion.

I don't wish to come off sounding like people should not come here to find out information for fear of being ridiculed. I again appologise if it seemed that way. No question is "stupid" or "dumb". We are all here to teach and learn. Especially if the topic concerns safety issues.

I've had a protected Trustfire battery vent in a mech mod before (see below pic), but never an IMR battery. I do personally believe that the IMR's are safer than protected batteries, and use them for both my regulated and unregulated mods.

I just did a "no-no" a few days ago and tossed a fully charged Efest IMR 18350 battery into a pocket, not aware that I had some spare change in it. The battery got extremely hot fast, and as I removed it it vented, but didn't blow its caps. (Unlike the protected Trustfire which did blow its caps and melted the body of the battery.)