Mechanical - To Kick or Not To Kick

[gimmieshelter31]

Recently purchased a really nice mechanical mod on the classifieds . My dilemma is whether or not I should buy a kick for it.
My main use for this mod will be for genesis style atomizers . My thinking is the kick will give some protection in the event of a hard short in addition to the benefit of regulated wattage throughout the life of the battery charge. I also like consistency.

Mainly here I'm asking what those with mechanical mods ,using gennys, have chosen . Did you kick it? Use a 2 cent fuse? Do you use IMR or other chemistry? Any and all comments and opinions are welcome.

Thank you for your contribution.

 

[justinred]

Instead of a Kick, get a multimeter to use for checking you build's resistance/shorts and a few IMR batteries. Once you get a hang of building low resistance coils, you'll be happy with fixed voltage over a finicky Kick.

 

[gimmieshelter31]

Thank you for your reply justinred. I guess I'll get some 18650 IMRs. I do have a multimeter. Also gonna pick up some 28 and 30awg kanthal.

 

[bivie]

Instead of a Kick, get a multimeter to use for checking you build's resistance/shorts and a few IMR batteries. Once you get a hang of building low resistance coils, you'll be happy with fixed voltage over a finicky Kick.

In what way is the Kick finicky? Thanks in advance.

 

[justinred]

In what way is the Kick finicky? Thanks in advance.

Tricky to ensure good conductivity on the postive poles and ground spring, you have to deal with it on every battery change, drains the battery fast, stops working way too early on the battery's life even if there is still enough charge to work on a different mod and price is equal to a vw mod.

 

[iamtumus]

also, i'm not sure about you, but in my genesis atomizers i need at least 12 watts, 10 won't cut it.

 

[denali_41]

i tried the kick,,only benefit i could find for it was when using a geney..

what justinred said is true,,too much a pita

 

[JKVaper]

I'd say different about kick being finicky because once you find the spot that works best for you it doesn't take too much messing with, but I suppose that would depend on the mod it's being used in.

As what the OP said in original post seems to be the most important for me, the benefit of regulated wattage throughout the life of the battery charge for consistency and added protection for shorts and/or too low battery drain. The Kick protects battery from being drained too low, which extends the overall life of the battery.

 

[denali_41]

a "2cent" fuse will do the same,,,and a lot cheaper too

 

[gimmieshelter31]

Haven't yet decided whether I'll buy a kick or not. For the record, this would be for the Chameleon mod (the one from Scotland) . I may wind up getting a kick and playing around with it. I could use it with the 18490's I have now for my ProVari or 18650's without it. I really like the ring switch on the mod and the way it comes apart ,I could easily adjust a kick without removing from the tube.

 

[justinred]

When the Kick works, it works great. The deal breaker for me was that I get only 2-3 hours vape time on an 18490 from full charge to stutter vape low battery warning when I can get 8 hours off the same battery on a Provari.

 

[gimmieshelter31]

That is really a drastic drop off in vape time.

 

[denali_41]

there are many ex-watt guys running around that will tell ya the same thing ..higher watts = higher amp drain

 

[JKVaper]

a "2cent" fuse will do the same,,,and a lot cheaper too

Will the 2cent fuse keep the wattage the same until the battery reaches 3.24v under load? Nope. And spending $10 on a fuse that goes ( if over 5A ) by the time 4 are used the kick should still be going.

When the Kick works, it works great. The deal breaker for me was that I get only 2-3 hours vape time on an 18490 from full charge to stutter vape low battery warning when I can get 8 hours off the same battery on a Provari.

I've heard the same in other areas of ECF, but my batteries (18500 IMR high drain, as recommended only by Evolv) last me 6-8 hours , as long as I have 2 or 3 in rotation it has not been a problem. I may be wrong but maybe when they last only 2-3 hours they may be cheap batteries or not IMR high drain? Just sayin because this has not been my or some others experience with that issue. But it is something that is just in the nature of the Kick, as volts drain amperage increase thus drain happens faster.

IMO some issues are just not looked into deeply enough to justify the end. Still...... I just like a consistent vape = my end.

These are just my opinions through my experiences and research, everyone works different, what works best for you is what you should use.

 

[siampumpkin]

The beauty of the Kick is that you can use it or not use it depending on what you want or need at the moment.

 

[justinred]

I've heard the same in other areas of ECF, but my batteries (18500 IMR) last me 6-8 hours , as long as I have 2 or 3 it has not been a problem. I may be wrong but maybe when they last only 2-3 hours they may be cheap batteries or not IMR high drain? Just sayin because this has not been mine or some others experience with that issue.

I use only AW IMR batteries. It works for you and some but not for everyone. Maybe it's my style of vaping. I vape binge (5-10 successive draws) then stop till the next binge time 15 minutes after so it's pretty tough on the batteries with it drastically dropping voltage with no rest time to recover. Kick quits at 3.5 volts, still works on the Provari till 3.2 volts.

 

[JKVaper]

Kick quits at 3.5 volts, still works on the Provari till 3.2 volts.

Are you measuring voltage of battery properly when it dies on your Kick? (under load)

A quote directly from Evolv's website states......(note: UNDER LOAD under #6)
http://evolvapor.com/kick/

"6. Low Battery Indicator: The Kick will detect, and stop functioning, when a battery charge level drops below 3.2 volts UNDER LOAD (with an atty/carto attached).

I have used an in-line volt meter for my confirmation to test for this very same reason.....and Kick stoped functioning when voltage was at exactly 3.24v (under load). When same battery at same time was tested on volt meter with NO LOAD it measured 3.56v. This will of course vary with the ohms of the load when tested.

It's understandable that most people may not understand the full technics of electronic theory, I have researched this and understand the terms well, as I have worked with electronics and the theory of it for 20+ years. It could also be like many other things in vaping today, inconsistent products. I've only done this testing with one Kick since its all I own.

 

[justinred]

I am an electronics engineer so I fully understand that. If it works for you, enjoy it. It's just not for me.

 

[Brealistic0]

Buy the kick and if you don't like it you can always sell it.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

 

[JKVaper]

I am an electronics engineer so I fully understand that. If it works for you, enjoy it. It's just not for me.

Totally understand.
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Hoping it will continue to work for me until I get a Provari but been holding off as things seem to be taking a lot of turns lately with vaping hardware.

VV and VW in the same device, nah. We need something thats going to be compact, last a long time, be consistent, fail proof, and require little tinkering....come on USA producers, we're counting on you. LOL, now I'm dreaming for a perfect world ..... it'll never happen.