Mechs: don't like them but might need them, do's and don'ts

[drugarth]

Hi,

I don't particulary understand mechs, why would you use them? As:

- they are less safe
- no battery indicator
- inconsistent vape

But with the comming legislation I might want to add one to my arsenal as a last resort.
I am however a bit wary, especially because of the first point (safety), so a fuse is manadatory for me, also I like it to be as small as possible.

I have a few questions though before I decide to pull the trigger:

- I understood that if you want to add a fuse/kick to an existing mech you need to go for a bigger battery tube (so if you want to use 18350 batteries you should use a 18500 battery tube). Is this correct?

- Furthermore I have heard that it is better not to use a clearomizer with factory coils on a mech. That you should use a RTA or rda. I don't understand this, I estimate the chance for a short with my own coil bigger than with a factory coil. So is this correct, and if so why?

- any other things I should certainly take into account why using a mech (don't know much about them)? I know I need to double check my build etc. before using them...but that's about it

I am currently thinking of buying an Atmizoo Lab35 as they have a fuse build in and are reasonable small. Apart from the fact that currently there seem to be problems with their site (paypall won't let me log in, works on other sites) I am still looking for alternatives.
Any tips on comparable mechs? Safety (fuse) and size are paramount, budget is about $100.

 

[sig-cmt]

...they are less safe

So long as you undertake the necessary precautions, I find mechanicals no less safe than a regulated mod.

...no battery indicator

Experience and deteriorating vape quality serve as fantastic indicators. I always request my regulated custom boxes be built without an LCD voltmeter as well.

...inconsistent vape

Dual/triple/quad cell mechs help mitigate this type of experience. Personally, I vape almost exclusively on mechs these days. My Boxer DNA 200 and 133 have been relegated to the sole purpose of dry burning for weeks.

...any other things I should certainly take into account...

NOALOX, NO-OX-ID, DeoxIT Gold, plenty of vinegar, salt and baking soda .

 

[Baditude]

I have a few questions though before I decide to pull the trigger:

- I understood that if you want to add a fuse/kick to an existing mech you need to go for a bigger battery tube (so if you want to use 18350 batteries you should use a 18500 battery tube). Is this correct?

First, understand that a shorter battery (18350) will have less amps and capacity than a longer battery (18650), so you may not be able to sub-ohm with the smaller battery as it will not have the amps to safely fire the coil. The Evolv Kick also has minimum amp requirements, and needs at minimum an 18500 battery, and preferably an 18650.

AW IMR18650 3000mah 20Amp

AW IMR18490 1200mah 18Amp

AW IMR18350 800 mah 12Amp​

The Kick takes up some room in the battery compartment, so unless the mechanical mod is "telescopic", or has an optional battery extension sleeve, you will have to downgrade to an 18500 battery from an 18650 to make room for the Kick.

- Furthermore I have heard that it is better not to use a clearomizer with factory coils on a mech. That you should use a RTA or RDA. I don't understand this, I estimate the chance for a short with my own coil bigger than with a factory coil. So is this correct, and if so why?

You could use a clearomizer with a mechanical as long as the mech is not a faux hybrid mod (no 510 center pin). However, mechs truly shine when using a rebuildable drip atomizer.

- any other things I should certainly take into account why using a mech (don't know much about them)? I know I need to double check my build etc. before using them...but that's about it

Here's my guide for your first mechanical mod: Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

I am still looking for alternatives.
Any tips on comparable mechs? Safety (fuse) and size are paramount, budget is about $100.

I use a Silver Bullet mechanical mod from AltSmoke. For $80, you get one of the safer mechanical mods currently on the market.

• Uses a recessed side fire button, which is less likely to be accidentally fired if you carry your mod in your pocket or purse.
• Uses a fire button designed to vent gas out of the mod should the battery go into thermal runaway. A mechnanical mod with inadequate vent holes is the most dangerous thing about mechanical mods.
• Uses a "hot" spring, designed to collapse if the battery becomes hot, which might prevent battery thermal runaway.
• AltSmoke offers an optional battery extension sleeve, allowing the use of an 18650 battery and Kick simultaneously.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup



Baditude's Blogs

 

[AndriaD]

Hi,

I don't particulary understand mechs, why would you use them? As:

- they are less safe
- no battery indicator
- inconsistent vape

But with the comming legislation I might want to add one to my arsenal as a last resort.
I am however a bit wary, especially because of the first point (safety), so a fuse is manadatory for me, also I like it to be as small as possible.

I have a few questions though before I decide to pull the trigger:

- I understood that if you want to add a fuse/kick to an existing mech you need to go for a bigger battery tube (so if you want to use 18350 batteries you should use a 18500 battery tube). Is this correct?

- Furthermore I have heard that it is better not to use a clearomizer with factory coils on a mech. That you should use a RTA or RDA. I don't understand this, I estimate the chance for a short with my own coil bigger than with a factory coil. So is this correct, and if so why?

- any other things I should certainly take into account why using a mech (don't know much about them)? I know I need to double check my build etc. before using them...but that's about it

I am currently thinking of buying an Atmizoo Lab35 as they have a fuse build in and are reasonable small. Apart from the fact that currently there seem to be problems with their site (paypall won't let me log in, works on other sites) I am still looking for alternatives.
Any tips on comparable mechs? Safety (fuse) and size are paramount, budget is about $100.

One other alternative may be, get some regulated mods that use external batteries -- not as safe in terms of longevity as a mech, they still have electronics that can fry, but at least you don't have to trash the whole mod just because the battery goes kaput. I'm a huge fan of CoolFire4's, but when their batteries go dead or won't keep a charge, they'll be useless, so I'm also acquiring some regulated boxes that use external batteries.

As for the clearos with mechs -- if you use a Kick, it's fairly safe; it's just that without a Kick, there's gonna be a lot of power applied to the coils when the battery is fresh (4.2v), and a lot of the small clearo coils just can't handle it. With a Kick, you could use a clearo or carto or whatever you like, bearing in mind that a Kick regulates the vape to 5-12 watts.

For real safety with a mech, just try to learn all that you can about battery safety -- Baditude's blogs are a great place for that! -- and above all, keep them clean.

Andria

 

[roxynoodle]

Gus Mods also have fuses in the top caps (or hybrid connector of the Estia).

I have this mod which has an extension to use an 18650 plus a kick:

HCigar Black Carbon Fiber Stingray Clone 18650 22mm Mechanical Mod

I don't know if that's the best price, but code: merrychristmasfromvr will get you $5 off. And they have free shipping.

 

[drugarth]

Thanks for the input! Some great pointers!

@sig-cmt I bought a can of IPA,

CRC Kontakt Chemie Kontakt IPA 77109-AE 200 ml bij Conrad in de online shop | 000882011

will that do the trick? or do I need one of the products you suggested?

@AndriaD I am also (mainly) stocking up on quality/robust regulated devices, currently am snapping up all Dicodes devices (build like a tank Provari style) I can find for a reasonable price, and also have an authentic Xvostick, Sx mini M and some Heatvape invaders. Just wanted one or 2 mechs as backup just in case everything fails, hope to never have to use them

@Baditude Great guide, and very usefull info in your post thanks!

@roxynoodle vaporrange is not reachable right now, but will check it out once it's reachable again, build in fuses is exactly what I am looking for!

Maybe I should give my intended setup:

- I definitely want a 18350 model, small=good , I understand that makes a kick impossible, but maybe a fuse will fit? A build in fuse like the Atzimoo has would be even better.
- I plan to buy some AW 12A 800mah batteries for it
- For RTA's I plan to use it with my Goblin mini's, I mostly tootle puff, so it will always be a >1ohm coil
- I was also hoping to use it with my Kabuki's. It has a protruding 510.
With a nauti coil and a full battery Steam engine gives me about 10W output and 2.3A....so I guess that would make it safe.....

I think it would be wise to go for a cheaper model first to try them out before commiting to a more expensive model like the Atmizoo lab.
Currently I am looking at the Colibri clone on FT.
It has a circuitboard in there, but not sure if it also protects against a short circuit.
Electronics does make it suspect again for failure, but they also sell spare boards for just $6, so I can always stock up on those.

$25.65 Colibri Styled Mechanical Mod - 1*18350/18650 / 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

However not sure if the Kabuki will be good on that one, as I see no mention of the 510 of the mod, it's not a hybrid (no direct connection to the battery), but is also seems not to have a 510 centerpin, you seem to connect to the circuitboard through some metal plate thingee:

Will a clearo with a protruding centerpin (specifically the Kabuki) be usable on that? I understood I should not use tanks with a springloaded centerpin, but a fixed adjustable 510 should be good to go?

 

[roxynoodle]

I'm sorry, I hadn't realized you were in Europe. Check out Gus Mods in Greece. They have reasonable prices, and often good prices on old stock.

 

[KenD]

A kick can be used with an 18350. The new AW and the blue Tensai definitely have the amps to handle the 12w or 15w that a kick can provide.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Ninja]

2cent fuse.
Vape Safe - 2 Cents For Safety Mod Battery Safety Fuse [gv-VapeSafe-2csForSafetyFuse] - $8.99 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more

 

[ccwaters]

Thanks for the input! Some great pointers!

@sig-cmt I bought a can of IPA,

CRC Kontakt Chemie Kontakt IPA 77109-AE 200 ml bij Conrad in de online shop | 000882011

will that do the trick? or do I need one of the products you suggested?

@AndriaD I am also (mainly) stocking up on quality/robust regulated devices, currently am snapping up all Dicodes devices (build like a tank Provari style) I can find for a reasonable price, and also have an authentic Xvostick, Sx mini M and some Heatvape invaders. Just wanted one or 2 mechs as backup just in case everything fails, hope to never have to use them

@Baditude Great guide, and very usefull info in your post thanks!

@roxynoodle vaporrange is not reachable right now, but will check it out once it's reachable again, build in fuses is exactly what I am looking for!

Maybe I should give my intended setup:

- I definitely want a 18350 model, small=good , I understand that makes a kick impossible, but maybe a fuse will fit? A build in fuse like the Atzimoo has would be even better.
- I plan to buy some AW 12A 800mah batteries for it
- For RTA's I plan to use it with my Goblin mini's, I mostly tootle puff, so it will always be a >1ohm coil
- I was also hoping to use it with my Kabuki's. It has a protruding 510.
With a nauti coil and a full battery Steam engine gives me about 10W output and 2.3A....so I guess that would make it safe.....

I think it would be wise to go for a cheaper model first to try them out before commiting to a more expensive model like the Atmizoo lab.
Currently I am looking at the Colibri clone on FT.
It has a circuitboard in there, but not sure if it also protects against a short circuit.
Electronics does make it suspect again for failure, but they also sell spare boards for just $6, so I can always stock up on those.

$25.65 Colibri Styled Mechanical Mod - 1*18350/18650 / 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

However not sure if the Kabuki will be good on that one, as I see no mention of the 510 of the mod, it's not a hybrid (no direct connection to the battery), but is also seems not to have a 510 centerpin, you seem to connect to the circuitboard through some metal plate thingee:

Will a clearo with a protruding centerpin (specifically the Kabuki) be usable on that? I understood I should not use tanks with a springloaded centerpin, but a fixed adjustable 510 should be good to go?

The colibri, and Atto clones are quite nice, though not a true mech they work well and are very small. I did a shorted atomizer test on both and they survived, simply did not fire. FT also offers replacement boards $6.34 Replacement Kick Module for Colibri Mechanical Mod - unusable under 2.93V at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping Which does offer some back up. The spring plate (no 510 center pin) could be an issue down the road, eventually it will probably fail, if you can solder it wouldn't be a difficult fix. they both work fine with the Kabuki clone I have.

they certainly won't be as future proof as a real mech, but are nice.

2cent fuse.
Vape Safe - 2 Cents For Safety Mod Battery Safety Fuse [gv-VapeSafe-2csForSafetyFuse] - $8.99 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more

A less expensive alternative while they last (clearance item) they work well enough.

SmokTech Re-settable Fuse

 

[sig-cmt]

@sig-cmt I bought a can of IPA...will that do the trick?

I am personally not a fan of aerosol IPAs due to the residues that propellants typically deposit behind. But if that is all you have, then it is certainly usable. As for NOALOX, NO-OX-ID, DeoxIT Gold: None are really required. But they will help cut down on cleaning time and time between cleanings. All three are part of my vaping toolbox and serve a purpose every single time I maintain my mods. When you gain more experience, you may find yourself spending more time and money on ancillary buys (e.g. buffing wheel with blocks of white and jeweler's rouge) than actual mods .

 

[drugarth]

The colibri, and Atto clones are quite nice, though not a true mech they work well and are very small. I did a shorted atomizer test on both and they survived, simply did not fire. FT also offers replacement boards $6.34 Replacement Kick Module for Colibri Mechanical Mod - unusable under 2.93V at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping Which does offer some back up. The spring plate (no 510 center pin) could be an issue down the road, eventually it will probably fail, if you can solder it wouldn't be a difficult fix. they both work fine with the Kabuki clone I have.

they certainly won't be as future proof as a real mech, but are nice.




A less expensive alternative while they last (clearance item) they work well enough.

SmokTech Re-settable Fuse

Thanks a bunch!! Just the info I was looking for.

In regard to the Colbiri, if I understand you correctly:
- So it does seem to provide short circuit protection
- it works with the Kabuki. I assume you have to protrude the 510 pin a bit, as the Colibri mod is sort of like a faux-hybrid in the sense it has no 510?

Also great info on the fuses...I tried to order some as the are real cheap, and also cheap in the shipping, unfortunatly I got hit with a CC "AVS failed" which seems common from international orders.....unfortunately they don't have a paypall option......I will contact them to see what is what.

Thanks again!

 

[ccwaters]

I purchased the Colibri, then after got the Atto, both are very similar, I did a couple things when I got them, first I revered the battery polarity, no damage on either, then I intentionally put a shorted atomizer on them, again no damage. Yes you will need a protruding 510 pin, but they do offer protection a straight mech does not.

I quite like the compact size of both of these, and the fact that they offer some protection as well. Sorry to hear of the ordering issue.

Here are some pics of the Atto and Colibri the size comparison is with an 18650 SMPL. Also some pics of the top of them, difficult to get a pic of the inside top, but they are both similar with a small spring metal plate which has 1-2mm of travel.

Atto top

Colibri top

 

[drugarth]

@ccwaters thanks mate! Really good info!
Ordered one of those Colibri's (actually 2) (had ordered them before, but canceled because of the no 510 thingee, didn't feel safe for my first "mech (like)" device to be a faux-hybrid)...but I'm confident I'll be able to use them safely now! (I will ofcourse also take the battery etc. safety into account when using them).

I just love how small they are, they wil also be great with my Goblin Mini's, less than 80mm total

 

[bartimeaus]

I purchased the Colibri, then after got the Atto, both are very similar, I did a couple things when I got them, first I revered the battery polarity, no damage on either, then I intentionally put a shorted atomizer on them, again no damage. Yes you will need a protruding 510 pin, but they do offer protection a straight mech does not.

I quite like the compact size of both of these, and the fact that they offer some protection as well. Sorry to hear of the ordering issue.

Here are some pics of the Atto and Colibri the size comparison is with an 18650 SMPL. Also some pics of the top of them, difficult to get a pic of the inside top, but they are both similar with a small spring metal plate which has 1-2mm of travel.

Can the atto in 18650 mode be used with a kick with a 18490 battery with a kick?



The youtube guy says he's having some issues with the bottom screw cap being loose etc etc. Did you have any problems?

 

[ccwaters]

No a kick will not work, due to battery orientation(positive-shell), and the fact the kick cannot be placed on the atty side of the circuit board. I've not had any issues with battery connection on either the Colibri, or the Atto. I prefer the setup of the Atto which does not require nipple top batteries, or a magnet.

Fasttech discontinued the Colibri, no idea why, maybe legal issues. Unfortunately spare boards were also discontinued. If anyone wants one you might be best to get it sooner then later. 3F still had them listed as does Focal, unfortunately Focal wants a bit more for them.

 

[bartimeaus]

No a kick will not work, due to battery orientation(positive-shell), and the fact the kick cannot be placed on the atty side of the circuit board. I've not had any issues with battery connection on either the Colibri, or the Atto. I prefer the setup of the Atto which does not require nipple top batteries, or a magnet.

Fasttech discontinued the Colibri, no idea why, maybe legal issues. Unfortunately spare boards were also discontinued. If anyone wants one you might be best to get it sooner then later. 3F still had them listed as does Focal, unfortunately Focal wants a bit more for them.

Balls. Was hoping a kick would work. So the I can use the Atto without button top batteries?

 

[ccwaters]

Yes the Atto has a small dimple in the bottom cap so no need for nipples, or magnets.

 

[bartimeaus]

Yes the Atto has a small dimple in the bottom cap so no need for nipples, or magnets.

Nice. Did you get it from 3fvape or FT or focalecig? I've heard that 3fvape has the best quality (but also costs the most at usd36 for the atto with pico tank kit)

 

[edyle]

Hi,

I don't particulary understand mechs, why would you use them? As:

- they are less safe
- no battery indicator
- inconsistent vape

But with the comming legislation I might want to add one to my arsenal as a last resort.
I am however a bit wary, especially because of the first point (safety), so a fuse is manadatory for me, also I like it to be as small as possible.

I have a few questions though before I decide to pull the trigger:

- I understood that if you want to add a fuse/kick to an existing mech you need to go for a bigger battery tube (so if you want to use 18350 batteries you should use a 18500 battery tube). Is this correct?

- Furthermore I have heard that it is better not to use a clearomizer with factory coils on a mech. That you should use a RTA or RDA. I don't understand this, I estimate the chance for a short with my own coil bigger than with a factory coil. So is this correct, and if so why?

- any other things I should certainly take into account why using a mech (don't know much about them)? I know I need to double check my build etc. before using them...but that's about it

I am currently thinking of buying an Atmizoo Lab35 as they have a fuse build in and are reasonable small. Apart from the fact that currently there seem to be problems with their site (paypall won't let me log in, works on other sites) I am still looking for alternatives.
Any tips on comparable mechs? Safety (fuse) and size are paramount, budget is about $100.

1: why use mechs:
failsafe/backup.

I use mechs with kick modules; I have about 6 vw 15 watt kicks and 1 vv kick.
I get short circuit protection, reverse battery protection, 10 second cutoff

the typical mech usually has adjustable centerpin, and you can attach the topcap firmly to your tank/topper and not have a problem of overtightening or rocking that comes with fixed centerpin regulated mods.

No screen and up/down controls is a drawback and I don't recommend mechs for new vapers, but once you have experience and tend to vape a particular way it's convenient.

2: kick tube,
my chiyou's, king, astro (all m21x1 threaded, same as vamo thread)
stingray, nemesis, poldiacs
all came with kick tubes included; that's one reason I chose them.

The astro is telescopic which is convenient.

I use 18650's with kicks.
I can use 18350 with a kick with my mods; just did it with my nemesis by leaving out the top tube. Should be fine for 5 watt vaping.

3: you can certainly use a mech with a clearomizer, especially if you are using a kick anyway;

4: I have some fuses but I never use them because I use kick modules already.