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Why not get a regulated squonk? Lost Vapes has a squonk version of the Therion which is a very nice regulated squonk, with a top notch dna board in it.
I got the paranormal 166 I'm not opposed to regulated squonk mod but there pricey and I want to squonk now if I went regulated I'd want a dual I don't always carry batteries with me
I like this hugo squeezer but I don't know mechs and in a way I would like to understand it all
I like this hugo squeezer but I don't know mechs and in a way I would like to understand it all
I am 100% sure there are numerous threads here on ECF that explain ohms law and mech safety in detail. Just give it a search. I am heading to bed or I would.
Honestly a Therion only eats batteries if you make it eat batteries.
With normal work/breaks I have no problem getting through the day with VTC 5a or 6, around .2-.3. Chain vaping, well ymmv.
If I need to I'll USB charge at the end of day at work, more often I carry a spare, hardly ever need it. Therion is still the best mod I own.
My mechs, usually run same coils, but all are 20700. I build on my tab, wick & wet, check ohms, still do the math, then put it on and leave it alone.
Dont try to impress anyone and be careful, know the law, you should be fine.
With normal work/breaks I have no problem getting through the day with VTC 5a or 6, around .2-.3. Chain vaping, well ymmv.
If I need to I'll USB charge at the end of day at work, more often I carry a spare, hardly ever need it. Therion is still the best mod I own.
My mechs, usually run same coils, but all are 20700. I build on my tab, wick & wet, check ohms, still do the math, then put it on and leave it alone.
Dont try to impress anyone and be careful, know the law, you should be fine.
geekvape gbox is the only affordable dual battery regulated squonk I am aware of.
I'll admit I haven't looked deep into it, but what about that Kanger that is like a top/side squonk thing. I have no idea the cost or if they're any good, I can't even remember the name of them.
If your big concern is safety, concentrate on getting genuine batteries from LG, Samsung, or Sony. If you keep your builds relatively modest in resistance, say above 0.4-.5 ohm, and double check. That resistance on an ohm meter or regulated mod you should be fine even with a 20A battery. Just don’t allow the fire button to get pressed in a pocket or bag where it can keep firing and overheat. Oh, and no loose unprotected batteries either.
I'm certainly not going to try convert you if you don't understand how to operate a mech safely. They are not unsafe if operated properly. There are many youtubes, charts, and apps available to help you out. Most starting mech users should get a general knowledge on battery safety and build above sub ohm. When they are comfortable in there skills they go lower. Never carry one in your pocket unless you have a lockout switch. I hope you continue to search for the info you need, and not miss out on mech squonking cause it's the ultimate vaping experience.
Something I just remembered.
Seems like this whole issue is caused by regulated squonks being out of your range.
I ordered a Cthulu Genius from fasttech, it's in the mail and costts $27. You could throw it on your Paranormal.
IMO if you don't want to do the above, and you can't afford an appropriate squonk for you -- don't squonk.
Seems like this whole issue is caused by regulated squonks being out of your range.
I ordered a Cthulu Genius from fasttech, it's in the mail and costts $27. You could throw it on your Paranormal.
IMO if you don't want to do the above, and you can't afford an appropriate squonk for you -- don't squonk.
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I had never heard of that before. It is quite....genius. It might make things a bit tall for some though. Still it allows for the best of both worlds. I like it.
Why do you think the Samsung 30Q is a no go for a mech mod? It's a great battery as long as you don't build too low of an ohm.I want a squonk mod but I don't know much about any of that and I want to be safeI use vtc5s and 30qs I know the 30qs are a no go for mech mods unless built low
I'm to scarred to try anything unregulated
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod
- As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Recently revised to make it even simpler to understand.
- Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.
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They're technically on preorder. Mine's set to ship in the next couple days.
The only video I could find when I ordered it was a French guy who received one in his shop just hours before.
He was really impressed with it:
I want a squonk mod but I don't know much about any of that and I want to be safe
As has been mentioned, you don't need to go mech to squonk. But if you do choose to go mech, here's a brief crash-course. I'll assume you're already familiar with coil-building in general but if not, maybe get your feet wet building for a regulated device before moving on to mech mods. Otherwise, here goes:
First things first, always test the resistance (ohms) of your atomizer on a regulated device or stand-alone ohm-reader BEFORE firing it on a mech mod. Test it fully assembled with the coil and top-cap installed. Ideally, you'll want to do any dry-firing (before you install the wick) and "break in" the coil (after wick/juice is applied) on a regulated device, then make sure everything's tight and tidy (the coil might shift, and post screws can become loosened, when heat is first applied), and test again. Most mech mod battery incidents occur, not because of a build that's too low in and of itself, but because of a short-circuit that bypasses the coil or part of the coil entirely. Testing an atomizer prior to installing it on a mech helps to identify and avoid shorts against the atomizer base, coil posts, or top cap.
**[EDIT] Special note on pinless or "hybrid" devices (although that is often a misnomer these days; "true" hybrids are a different breed of mech mod, entirely): Just don't use 'em, I say. These devices just add one more layer of "s**t that could go seriously wrong" for little or no added benefit. If you do decide to use one, make sure you know what you are in for. They are only compatible with atomizers that have a significantly protruding, fixed center pin at the 510 connector, never with a flush or recessed center pin. A flush or recessed pin means that the outer threads of the atomizer connector -- which become negatively charged when the fire button is depressed -- will be in contact with the positive pole of the battery, creating an instant hard-short the moment you hit that button. Don't use them with factory coil heads, which can have soft, rubber insulators. Don't use them with flush or recessed center-pin atomizers. Don't use them with adjustable-pin atomizers, that might become flush or recessed during use. And please don't use them near me.**
Your battery is at 4.2 volts (it's not, really, at least not after the first few seconds, but we always pretend it's at full charge, for safety reasons.) The coil will draw current (amps) from the battery at a rate of:
AMPS = VOLTS / OHMS (Remember that "volts" is always 4.2 in our calculations.)
Your battery has a max amp limit, called the "CDR" (continuous discharge rating). Many batteries are advertised with inflated ratings, or with no rating stated. Check @Mooch's blog for his latest charts and test results, for a more accurate CDR rating for a specific cell. There is a trade-off between amp rating and capacity -- batteries capable of sustaining higher amp draws will have lower overall capacities, and vice-versa. To select a battery, first determine what your amp draw will be, then choose a battery with the highest capacity (mAh - milliamp hours) that still meets or exceeds your needed amperage, and buy it from a trusted source (there's a list of vendors on the battery chart) to avoid fakes and re-wraps. Sony VTC5 is rated 20 amps (at 2000 mAh), while the Samsung 30Q is rated at only 15 amps but has a higher (3000 mAh) capacity.
If you'll note the amps calculation I mentioned above, you'll see that the amp draw is actually higher the lower your build (ohms) is. So the 30q is not recommended unless your build is especially high, not low. Higher ohms is always "safer" on a mech mod. It's when you start going lower ohms that the batteries start struggling to keep up.
Some people choose to leave a little "headroom" between their amp usage and the battery's max amp limit, sometimes as much as 50%. Others hold the position that the definition of CDR means it is a rate that is chosen to ensure good battery performance over hundreds of cycles under continuous discharge conditions and, as such, already has a significant "safety" margin built right in. Where you draw the line is up to personal preference.
Some grade-school algebra tells us we can rearrange the Ohm's law equation up above to read:
OHMS = VOLTS / AMPS
By plugging in 4.2 for the volts, and your battery's CDR for the amps, you can find the lowest safe ohm level for a particular cell. For your selected cells, that gives us:
VTC5: 4.2 / 20 = 0.21 ohms
30Q: 4.2 / 15 = 0.28 ohms
Note that these are minimum values, with no "headroom" left over. If your builds are this low you will be "pushing the envelope" of safety. Depending on your vaping style, you can probably find a satisfying experience at twice, or even four times these levels which would, in turn, require only half or one-quarter of the amperage from your battery. Be smart, be aware. Keep your head on your shoulders (both figuratively and literally), we don't want to read about you on the news. Good luck and enjoy!
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I understand the amp rating but that's it I normally buy premade coils k1 and ni80
I vape 316l and I know that dual coil Claptons on a single battery mech would have way to low of ramp up
Most my builds now are above .2 and .3 ohms in k1 and ni80
One thing i do know my parnormal 166 I think ohms mis read on my dead rabbit atm it says it's a .32 build but on my alien and friends mods it's. 22which makes since because these tiger coils are .45
I will study more but every time I've Tried to use vape tool steam engine and wrap my own Claptons it never ohms to what the apps or engine says it should be
I know what batteries to keep it safe but ad far as what type of coils and what ohms to stay above with each battery type I get extremely confused I don't know algebra
Everything said in this thread has my head spinning
I vape 316l and I know that dual coil Claptons on a single battery mech would have way to low of ramp up
Most my builds now are above .2 and .3 ohms in k1 and ni80
One thing i do know my parnormal 166 I think ohms mis read on my dead rabbit atm it says it's a .32 build but on my alien and friends mods it's. 22which makes since because these tiger coils are .45
I will study more but every time I've Tried to use vape tool steam engine and wrap my own Claptons it never ohms to what the apps or engine says it should be
I know what batteries to keep it safe but ad far as what type of coils and what ohms to stay above with each battery type I get extremely confused I don't know algebra
Everything said in this thread has my head spinning
Did you read my Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod?
You don't need to know algebra. You only have to type in two values into the calculator and it gives you the unknown value(s) you need. There are even two scenarios provided to demonstrate how it works.
Explain to me what confuses you.
Simple as "Don't exceed the TRUE CDR (max amp) of the battery you're using".
To find amps of your build, voltage (4.2 for mech) divided by resistance.
To find amps of your build, voltage (4.2 for mech) divided by resistance.
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