a little bit ago my kanger t3s coil had this horrible metallic taste. this coil had been sitting around for years, and previously used, so I wasn't expecting to much time left for it. now that my coil before this one just stopped working altogether. so I looked up coil taste metallic and some say it was hot spots and to nudge the coil. so I opened the atamizer rinsed it out and checked for hot spot. I saw the hot spot and rinsed again. trying to look at the tiny coil, at first I wasn't sure if the part of the ekowool was straight through the coil, so while pulling out the strand that looked misplaced, looked like a thin tiny wire came out with the wick. carefully pulling what looked like what I thought, I guessed right, it was a sliver of wire. so basically I'm guessing it was a short where the electricity was trying to connect. so maybe if you're having the same problem, it might be time to change the coil. I do have one question, why does the coil thin out at the lead and break off? and will lower gauge wire last longer?
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I believe the coil used in the T3S head is a combination of non-resistance wire leads with resistance wire for the coil itself. The break point is likely where they were welded. Although the coil seems to thin out as it reaches the leads I believe that is mostly because the coil has quite a bit of buildup.
You can use any round wire of suitable guage and resistance to make a coil.
As long as the resistance is high enough the legs won't heat up.
So preferably use a wire that's normally used for MTL coils.
today I rebuilt the t3s coil with 28 gauge kanthal wire, 2.5 inner coil diameter, 6 wraps for 1.2 ohms. when I test fired to check for hot spots, the coil itself gave off a burnt smelling vapor. is that normal? cause I don't remember seeing that in YouTube tutorials. then I added the wicks and soaked it up with eliquid and it smelled like the eliquid and a hint of burnt metal, when test firing again.
That burning smell may be the grommet, which the stock coil uses non-resistance legs to avoid scorching. Some of these small coils' legs can get too hot during dry burning for the grommet to handle, as they are often made of a rubber-like substance, not silicone.
G,
When recoiling something like the Joye CL-R coil, where the legs are trapped by a rubber gasket, I will pre-torch (old school style) the wire before wrapping a spaced coil.
IF I pulse the bare installed coil, it is at very low power and only briefly to confirm continuity.
NEVER let it glow past a bit of yellow/orange or you risk scorching the gaskets.
Wick it straight away, juice it up and then fire it.
Wash your hands before wrapping the coil and wicking, dirty fingers can contribute to off tastes.
Hope that helps.
I
Pre torching works when dry burning is not working. Once that grommet burns the taste and smell will stay there.
would building the coil on a rebuildable deck first, test firing, then move the coil to the t3s atamizer have the same affect as torching?
grapefez, I tried that years ago with Kanger heads and had the same problem. As others said, those wires are 3 piece spot welded wire with the resistance section in the center. Instead of having screw down installation they just insert the ends of the wires between the grommets and the metal tube sections. The design is low tech and meant to be tossed when flavor dies. You can't dry burn or it will melt the insulators.
Since you are trying to rebuild a non-rebuildable atomizer it's probably time to look at rebuildable atomizers. What you choose depends on whether you prefer the mouth to lung or direct to lung vaping style.
A rebuildable atomizer lets you install a new coil and wick in a few minutes vs the aggravation of dealing with an atomizer that's designed to toss once it loses its vapor and flavor production.
Since you are trying to rebuild a non-rebuildable atomizer it's probably time to look at rebuildable atomizers. What you choose depends on whether you prefer the mouth to lung or direct to lung vaping style.
A rebuildable atomizer lets you install a new coil and wick in a few minutes vs the aggravation of dealing with an atomizer that's designed to toss once it loses its vapor and flavor production.
Providing your coil legs are long enough it should work.
Try using a 24-28guage wire. Too thin and heat will build up too fast and too thick it will stay hotter for longer.
I have also done this without dry burning. I just used a lighter to heat up the wire and coiled and wicked then stuffed it in the coil chamber. Those coils aren't dry burned when you buy it.
I have also done this without dry burning. I just used a lighter to heat up the wire and coiled and wicked then stuffed it in the coil chamber. Those coils aren't dry burned when you buy it.
If the wire is clean, torching or pre wicking dry burning is not needed.
Pulsing a mounted coil, IMO, is to confirm continuity and observe potential shorts. Thin wire builds don't need much power for a useful pulse.
Dry burning to clean a fouled/gunked coil is not recommended when using grommet/gasket trapped coils.
Pull the coil and wick and replace with new.
I have had the best results from 28,29,30 AWG wire.
Thicker wire makes it difficult to achieve resistances in the 1Ω or higher range.
Thinner than 30AWG is difficult to wick without deforming the coil.
I have been recoiling CL-R coils for a few years (4+) with 28AWG SS316 @2.5mm and a target resistance of .90Ω -1.2Ω.
Wicking with Rayon.
If I was wicking with ecowool or silica, I would follow the traditional method of wrapping the coil around the wick and then mounting. (leave the needle in place until legs are secure.)
Cheers
I
@grapefez
Just so you know, there are plenty of videos on Youtube on how to rebuild these types of coils. Of course, the vast majority, if not all of them, will show wicking with silica rope as that is what was used back before cotton or rayon became all the rage. But the vids are still useful even if you want to wick with a different material.
Just search youtube for "protank rebuild" or other similar keywords and phrases. Back in the day, this was a very popular thing to do. Not so much anymore.
Just so you know, there are plenty of videos on Youtube on how to rebuild these types of coils. Of course, the vast majority, if not all of them, will show wicking with silica rope as that is what was used back before cotton or rayon became all the rage. But the vids are still useful even if you want to wick with a different material.
Just search youtube for "protank rebuild" or other similar keywords and phrases. Back in the day, this was a very popular thing to do. Not so much anymore.
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