• Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers

    Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?

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Froth

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Been wanting one of those, how is the performance?
No complaints at all, good performance and longer life than my MNKE 18650. Personally I don't ever draw over 20A on my batteries and these have been solid performers for me. I just finished with one, dripped with it for 1.5 hours probably around 1.5ml of liquid in my .30 ohm dual coil IGO-W then put my .52 ohm RSST on and went through another 3ml of liquid over about 2.5 hours and the battery performed well all the way through the tank, when I pulled it it was 3.67V resting voltage. So that's a solid 4+ hours and 4.5ml of sub ohm pleasure off a single battery. Very happy with that.

ive heard that the sony vtc4 are still reliable for crazy low ohms.

12955979875_1d7a796fe1_o.jpg



I use 2 but at .7ohm
Is there a story behind that picture? Otherwise(to me) that is simply a picture of blown batteries. Honestly, I could hard short one of my batteries and snap a picture of it any time I want to but that doesn't prove anything to anyone, it would be just that...a picture of a shorted out battery. Theoretically I could do that to a VTC4 and post a picture of it as well, but that doesn't deem anything unsafe at all. Would really like to know if there's a back story to that picture. My Efests haven't even gotten so much as warm even vaping for 3-4 hours at .30 ohms.
 
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Aal_

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Putting this here just for anyone interested in micro coiling a GG Penelope V3 or GG Ithaka Update (Same internals)



28 gauge kanthal A1 tension wrapped around 1.58mm (1/16) drill bit. 9 wraps 1.1 ohms.


Test run



Installing the wick

Cutting the wick to size a little off the edges

Pushing wicks to form a blocking effect against floods while keeping channels empty





This is how I do it and this is how it works every time :). Blocking the flood of liquid is important when ur coil is small in diameter or else no need.
 

roadie

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No complaints at all, good performance and longer life than my MNKE 18650. Personally I don't ever draw over 20A on my batteries and these have been solid performers for me. I just finished with one, dripped with it for 1.5 hours probably around 1.5ml of liquid in my .30 ohm dual coil IGO-W then put my .52 ohm RSST on and went through another 3ml of liquid over about 2.5 hours and the battery performed well all the way through the tank, when I pulled it it was 3.67V resting voltage. So that's a solid 4+ hours and 4.5ml of sub ohm pleasure off a single battery. Very happy with that.


Is there a story behind that picture? Otherwise(to me) that is simply a picture of blown batteries. Honestly, I could hard short one of my batteries and snap a picture of it any time I want to but that doesn't prove anything to anyone, it would be just that...a picture of a shorted out battery. Theoretically I could do that to a VTC4 and post a picture of it as well, but that doesn't deem anything unsafe at all. Would really like to know if there's a back story to that picture. My Efests haven't even gotten so much as warm even vaping for 3-4 hours at .30 ohms.

Yeah that pic is useless without a story, just gives the batteries a bad name for an unexplained reason. With someone having a screen name of subohmclouds, they could have been at a 0.002 build for all we know................:D
 

tomjw3

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Hi All,
I haven't had time to do much experimenting as of late, these 16 hour work days are killing me. I was able to try out some different materials. I decided on Suede for the follower. It seems to fill the uneven gaps on spools better than felt. Felt seems to work very well on smoothing out the drag when setting the tension.
IMGP1962.jpg
I have also been working on the correct angle for wrapping ribbon wire.
IMGP1963.jpg
100 degrees seems to be just about perfect for .8mm wire, I am sure that my .6mm wire will be different.
IMGP1965.jpg
This coil was wrapped at 20 Newtons.
I am getting excellent results on anything over 16 Newtons, but I prefer between 20 and 22.
 

MattyB1503

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No complaints at all, good performance and longer life than my MNKE 18650. Personally I don't ever draw over 20A on my batteries and these have been solid performers for me. I just finished with one, dripped with it for 1.5 hours probably around 1.5ml of liquid in my .30 ohm dual coil IGO-W then put my .52 ohm RSST on and went through another 3ml of liquid over about 2.5 hours and the battery performed well all the way through the tank, when I pulled it it was 3.67V resting voltage. So that's a solid 4+ hours and 4.5ml of sub ohm pleasure off a single battery. Very happy with that.


Is there a story behind that picture? Otherwise(to me) that is simply a picture of blown batteries. Honestly, I could hard short one of my batteries and snap a picture of it any time I want to but that doesn't prove anything to anyone, it would be just that...a picture of a shorted out battery. Theoretically I could do that to a VTC4 and post a picture of it as well, but that doesn't deem anything unsafe at all. Would really like to know if there's a back story to that picture. My Efests haven't even gotten so much as warm even vaping for 3-4 hours at .30 ohms.


So probably more interesting than coil jigs (IMO) but I don't get the connection to micro coils.

Personally I will never buy Efest, well the LUC v4 charger is pretty legit but batteries, nah. Never. Most that have been vaping for a while remember how Efest was (possibly still is) notorious for over stating there battery specs.

I mean 35 amps is a lot but not for a pulse rating. If you are gonna baby them then I see no potential harm (their IMR). But still, seems pretty grimy to state the max instead of continuous rating.

You also have to keep in mind what you posted is marketing; they are trying to sell VTC4s....

But anyways, Efest, nah, I wrote them off a long time ago and looks like they haven't changes their less than above board tactics.. Now getting hurt with a IMR battery is pretty unlikely but for a company to state their current capacity at Max or pulse rather than continuous draw, they are basically trying to trick people that don't know better. :facepalm:
 
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LReyes66

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So what's considered a "macro" coil? I've seen it around and now rips bout to do a video on it.

I'm thinking its microcoils but bigger ID like a 3/32 drill bit and up? Oh man I already have a hard time going above 1/16 ID wonder how much they differ.

Also, Has anyone tried to twist their wire and then after twisting it, twist it again? Ive found trying to make a triple twisted wire with 3 different strands somewhat a hit or miss process due to kinks some times developing if you twist to much. I found regular twisting on a drill easier as the wire just breaks off when its done. So I figured if I twist 30g wire, then twist the twisted 30 may be a easier process to get lower resistance wire... Possible? I prob won't get the chance to try it til Tuesday when I get back into town from my trip.

I guess you could call it the "double twisted coil" :)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
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Aal_

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So what's considered a "macro" coil? I've seen it around and now rips bout to do a video on it.

I'm thinking its microcoils but bigger ID like a 3/32 drill bit and up? Oh man I already have a hard time going above 1/16 ID wonder how much they differ.

Also, Has anyone tried to twist their wire and then after twisting it, twist it again? Ive found trying to make a triple twisted wire with 3 different strands somewhat a hit or miss process due to kinks some times developing if you twist to much. I found regular twisting on a drill easier as the wire just breaks off when its done. So I figured if I twist 30g wire, then twist the twisted 30 may be a easier process to get lower resistance wire... Possible? I prob won't get the chance to try it til Tuesday when I get back into town from my trip.

I guess you could call it the "double twisted coil" :)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

With all my my respect to Rip, he doesn't know what he is talking about. Macro for him ended up to be around 3mm. For us here Macro is whatever bigger than micro which means whatever bigger than 1.65mm. We tend to call them mini and standard. Check this chart:
 

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Aal_

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hi to all...i would like to try to build a micro coil and pair with a cotton. what i have right is a .28 gauge wire. i dont know how many turns should i put into it. any advice how many turn should i make to build a safe and awesome micro coil? thanks everyone!

With 28 ga Kanthal A-1 I usually go 1.4mm and 8-13 wraps depending on target resistance. Check above chart for pointers ^^^^
 

LReyes66

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With all my my respect to Rip, he doesn't know what he is talking about. Macro for him ended up to be around 3mm. For us here Macro is whatever bigger than micro which means whatever bigger than 1.65mm. We tend to call them mini and standard. Check this chart:

Nice chart. All this time I thought the microcoil cut off was 5/64 then it was a macro. No wonder I couldn't go above 1/16 lol

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

Aal_

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Nice chart. All this time I thought the microcoil cut off was 5/64 then it was a macro. No wonder I couldn't go above 1/16 lol

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Naming was created by superx. He is the one who defined it based on experience. Many people think micro means touching wraps but it is the diameter as well.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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Naming was created by superx. He is the one who defined it based on experience. Many people think micro means touching wraps but it is the diameter as well.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

and the wraps.. I think its between 6 and 12ish thereabouts but normally 10 or 12 I think
 

etherealink

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So what's considered a "macro" coil? I've seen it around and now rips bout to do a video on it.

I'm thinking its microcoils but bigger ID like a 3/32 drill bit and up? Oh man I already have a hard time going above 1/16 ID wonder how much they differ.

Also, Has anyone tried to twist their wire and then after twisting it, twist it again? Ive found trying to make a triple twisted wire with 3 different strands somewhat a hit or miss process due to kinks some times developing if you twist to much. I found regular twisting on a drill easier as the wire just breaks off when its done. So I figured if I twist 30g wire, then twist the twisted 30 may be a easier process to get lower resistance wire... Possible? I prob won't get the chance to try it til Tuesday when I get back into town from my trip.

I guess you could call it the "double twisted coil" :)

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I actually have a twisted 32 and twisted 28 that I twisted individually and then together that makes a pretty gnarly coil if you wrap it nice and tight.
 

MacTechVpr

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Micro or Macro coil, I don't care whatcha call it. It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing...so no matter what you name it it's got to produce the effect of a micro or it just doesn't matter. It's gobbledygook.

When you create a coil through tension pulsing it results in the formation of a bond between the very layers of alumina oxide being formed on the surface of Kanthal. There must be a consistent contact between the turns of the element for that to happen uniformly. Although not perfect as there are irregularities in the surface of the wire tension winding ensures the best possible likelihood of that outcome.

Oxidize without adhesion of the surfaces and that molecular bonding is incomplete and the efficiency of the result proportionately less.

The higher the diameter, the harder it is to attain adhesion of the coil turn surfaces; however, any more tension doesn't improve upon the limitations posed by the physics. So to get to that optimal condition it would be great to know the point of adhesion for every gauge diameter. In other words, you go micro coil in effect with ever increasing amounts of tension required for larger diameters and thicker wire.

So it's about achieving the effect or as close to that 100% solution as practicable or what we choose to call it, or its size, is meaningless.

But if it's about namin' things, I like the name Lu Lu (bubble memory domains resemble the shape of our universe).

:D

Good luck.

Back to helpin' the newbies get their vape on.

Love those pic's Russ.
 

etherealink

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No complaints at all, good performance and longer life than my MNKE 18650. Personally I don't ever draw over 20A on my batteries and these have been solid performers for me. I just finished with one, dripped with it for 1.5 hours probably around 1.5ml of liquid in my .30 ohm dual coil IGO-W then put my .52 ohm RSST on and went through another 3ml of liquid over about 2.5 hours and the battery performed well all the way through the tank, when I pulled it it was 3.67V resting voltage. So that's a solid 4+ hours and 4.5ml of sub ohm pleasure off a single battery. Very happy with that.

My Efests haven't even gotten so much as warm even vaping for 3-4 hours at .30 ohms.

Now that's my kind of review. I normally dual coil my dripper around .6 ohms so its not really a problem for amp limit (running VTC4's and even 10 amp Efest 18650's) but I like the idea of being able to have my cloud chaser with me to show off and still have the long-lasting performance of a higher mAh.

My VTC4's haven't given me any trouble so far but they seem to die off around 3.7volts (about where my 10 amp efest's did) it was just a bit longer than my VTC4's lasted (obviously).

I was just curious if anyone had any experience with the new Efest 18650 before I ordered one. Thanks for the heads up, and yeah, I agree about the batteries in the shot. My Efest's have shorted (my fault, build issue) to the point they had to cool before handling and never lost any performance even a couple months later.
 
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