So one thing this thread really taught me is ID does matter. It make as much difference as coil resistance.
I was thinking it might be cool, and super helpful to mirco newbs, to chart at what point does a coil underwick (come one, we have all taken those dry hits and gone "Nope, never again, this build is just too low for this ID"). Maybe it's too subjective but I do notice a definite point where the coil is flood city or Ima looking at it going "dude I better 2 second hit that thing".
Maybe a nod and a wink to that old but infamous "Don't pop your coil chart", but with Resistance on one side and Coil ID on the other.
Here's and example; I have a couple go to builds and right now and this quad is probably my favorite. So much so that I have been making it work in an Origen. I've posted the build before and I regret tearing it out every time; but they don't last forever, maybe three or four weeks at 10ml a day.
I been varying the ID, tried everything from 1.4mm on up.
Pics:
8 wrap, 27 awg K
Coils tidied up
Firing (No hot legs, sweet)
Not firing
0.25 ohms, total resistance.
It's not a micro coil though, it's a mini. 1.7mm ID.
Micros are just too hot for this build, they just vape too hard. Does 0.1mm and some change (0.1125mm) make a difference, absolutely. It's not about how many watts you push, it about balancing heat, coil saturation, airflow and the amount of wire under the hood.
I know what some of you are thinking, "just drop wire size or add wraps"; nope, ramp up time on this baby has been the best out of all, close to one second, and man I can take those 5 - 6 second pulls no problem. Thing is pumpen out serious density and flavor.