Yeah, it is too wide for a standard grand. It wouldn't screw into the 510 because the catch cup would block it.
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Micro Coils to increase Vapor, flavor & TH
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Yeah, it is too wide for a standard grand. It wouldn't screw into the 510 because the catch cup would block it.
Sure hope they sell the bf center pin separate soon if at all. My inquiry to Loki has been mute.
Craig said he will not sell the bf conversion for diy but will have owners send in the tf version to him for bf conversion. Something about liability exposure.
Craig said his concern is the DIY press in / out people potentially compromising the peek insulator because of its rigidity.
I kinda admire his stance on it.
Guys just for the rayon vs. KGD conversation. I'm vaping a Reo with an igo-s and a 1 ohm microcoil 28 gauge, I went from rayon to KGD back to Rayon, mainly because i wanted to see the difference and see if I miss KGD. My first observation is that the rayon gave me a sweeter denser flavor, on an unflavored liquid. Remember i am using everything the same even the battery, I just rewicked going back and forth between KGD and rayon. The Rayon definitely is more efficient in vaporizing per toot. This is undeniable since i can feel the denser vapor, the sweeter taste and the increased nicotine hit. These all mean I am getting more vapor per hit. Of course when speaking about wicking rayon in a tank and the number of problems that might rise from it, I can see why someone couldn't bother. But here I am using a squonker so really wicking speed and dry hit frequency is not under test here, but only efficiency in vapor production. To each their own guys, these are my experiences till now 
all things equal, I prefer just dealing with rayon over KGD. Unless KGD was marginally better, it wouldn't be desired over rayon based on that fact alone
YMMV
YMMV
Honestly, I too respect the stance. Although surprising, there have been a couple of builders that sell separate pins, is no big deal for me and certainly would never think twice about the whys and how comes. I still love the atomizer using daily and happy to be vaping period.
Sell me the Pin plus the PEEK insul then...
Actually, no, I'm being facetious. For such an awesome value on a US built RDA I would just buy one of each. Plus one must consider that not everyone is mechanically inclined; this could open up a Pandora's box of headaches and endless emails from dare I say the word IMO ......s.
My BF Odin came today.My only one little gripe is I can smell a slight presence of machine oil, otherwise I would be rocking it right now. Fitment and finish are perfect; I can't wait to get it cleaned and built.
Actually, no, I'm being facetious. For such an awesome value on a US built RDA I would just buy one of each. Plus one must consider that not everyone is mechanically inclined; this could open up a Pandora's box of headaches and endless emails from dare I say the word IMO ......s.
My BF Odin came today.
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Sell me the Pin plus the PEEK insul then...
Actually, no, I'm being facetious. For such an awesome value on a US built RDA I would just buy one of each. Plus one must consider that not everyone is mechanically inclined; this could open up a Pandora's box of headaches and endless emails from dare I say the word IMO ......s.
My BF Odin came today. My only one little gripe is I can smell a slight presence of machine oil, otherwise I would be rocking it right now. Fitment and finish are perfect; I can't wait to get it cleaned and built.
You shouldn't smell any machine oil. All parts and pieces are cleaned at 165 degrees with a non toxic cleaning agent in an industrial ultrasonic cleaner for 30 mins then I to an identical setup with plain water.
Thread tests and squank tests were performed with just PG then rinsed in hot water.
If there is a machine oil scent, lm sorry as we do the best we can to make sure its all clean.
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all of the odins I've bought have been extremely clean and free of any hint of machine oil, and the insulators in the odin are pretty tight. stuff that sells or has available a bf pin conversion like the origen are no where near as tight as the odin center pin and it really needs to be pressed almost all the way out and back in. I could def see guys damaging it by just trying to tap or squeeze it out or even pressing it out with the wrong setup. even stuff like vicious ant atties with tight center pins are not as tight the whole way as the odins, which is a good thing really... if not pressed out and back in correctly it could def cause problems though
Wow, threads & squonk tube are QC'ed; I didn't not expect that, bad ayuss.
I have to apologize about that post. I saw a very slight film in the TC and asked around the office. Other TF owners said their ones had it so I guess my nose just picked it up out of nowhere; the ol' placebo effect.
If there ever was any machine oil in older batches I can see you have completely fixed that. I just ran my finger inside the TC and tasted it after reading your reply . There's no machine oil what so ever. The Odin's come ready to squonk/drip. I feel dumb now... lol
Fail
I could have built this bad boy and been vaping it all day.
If there is one thing that is an all time pet peeve of mine it's a center post that breaks free over time. Worst thing ever, immaculate build, go to tighten down the center screw.... tweak all the coils!.!
Seems like that center post is really pressed in there good, like a true permanent press fit. The more I notice the details, the more impress I am. I can't believe the price point.
Seems like that center post is really pressed in there good, like a true permanent press fit. The more I notice the details, the more impress I am. I can't believe the price point.
OK, can someone with some electrical experience field a question since I'm having a blonde moment?
What's the difference between serial, parallel and serial-parallel coils?
I've seen it before in circuitry but its been years since I dealt with the reality of what they really meant.
Thanks in advance!
What's the difference between serial, parallel and serial-parallel coils?
I've seen it before in circuitry but its been years since I dealt with the reality of what they really meant.
Thanks in advance!
Hmm.
Series: if coil A And coil B are in series, the overall resistance is additive, aka they add up.
- current across both coils in series are equal (can be explained by Kirchoff's current law)
- voltage drop across each coil is different (voltage law)
Parallel: assuming coil A And B have the same resistance of 2 ohms, then the overall resistance is half of a coil, aka 1 ohm.
This is of course only applicable for when both have equal resistance. The actual equation is given by:
1/totalResistance = 1/Resistance1 + 1/Resistance 2
Something of similar interest,
In the event of unequal resistance between two parallel coils, a proportionately higher amount of current flows through the coil with the lower resistance (current law), But voltage across both coils are the same. To observe this....
Build a dual coil in parallel, each coil with different resistance. When the mod is fired, you'll see that the coil with lower resistance fires up faster and brighter.
Parallel-series and series-parallels are kinda like. Combination of the above two and is a tad more complicated to explain in text
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Thanks Kiwi.
So the "phenomenon" of one coil firing faster & hotter is explainable by slightly different resistances and how it can be changed by simply adjusting one coil vs the other... seemingly a microcoil working as a since resistor instead of one large one wrapped up ala an electromagnet.
Interesting bit of physics right there.
Something I'll have to play with
For most parts, yep!
Of course there are some random intricacies in play. You could have 2 identically wrapped coils but....
1) one coil has significantly longer leads than the other
2) the wrapping in one coil might somehow lead to shorts within the microcoil itself (resolved by repeatedly pulsing and pinching and yada...), thereby distorting the expected resistance
So you can get 2 unevenly lit coils.
There could be other reasons why, but I can't remember.
Regardless though, it mostly boils down to the difference in resistance.
Maybe other folks can chime in
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so whats the verdict, if you cant come across the koh gen do is the shesido or the muji cotton the better of the 2?
Muji has the same profile of Koh gen do but make sure you get the unbleached one. Shiseido I haven't tried yet but i think it has a skin you want to peel off.
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