Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

[KTMRider]

I'm in the process of putting the dna 40 large screen in my Hana clone box and I could use some advice on how to hold the screen in place. I took some pics as I worked on the project in case they might help others down the road, I have uploaded what I have so far here --> http://s274.photobucket.com/user/guywil/library/DNA 40 Hana Mod At some point I'll post discriptions to the photos once done but if anyone has any questions on the pics just let me know.

Taking KTM's idea I made some brackets from a CD case cover, I have pieces made to hold both sides of the screen and the board above it. The screen is held firmly in place but it can be slid toward the top or bottom and can be pushed in from the outside. I need to figure out how to hold it in place, I want the ability to remove it later if I need but keep it from being pushed in. Does it hurt the screen to put hot glue on the back side? A couple dots of hot glue would hold it but I don't want to damage it. My other thought was to cover the back side of the screen with tape over lapping the edges with some tape then hot glue the edges of the tape to keep the heat from the glue away from the screen. The first few pics in the link above show how the screen is held with the brackets I made.

Any tips, advice, ideas or even telling me where I've screwed up would be appreciated!

Here's a pic of the brackets I have. The top is the one Cloupor uses to center their screen. The bottom was a piece I cut from a cd case before cutting the slot for the screen. The piece slides to the top of the enclosure (toward the 510) to place the screen on the x-axis. The slot is to hold the screen on the y-axis.

As MikeP said, hot glue won't hurt anything. I use it to hold the screen and board as well as the charging board and buttons. I use a lot of it. You can cover the whole back side of the screen but be careful not to cover the board too much.

I'd rather use hot glue than epoxy because it's easy to remove, again as MikeP said, with isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip.

 

[SlickWilly]

Here's a pic of the brackets I have. The top is the one Cloupor uses to center their screen. The bottom was a piece I cut from a cd case before cutting the slot for the screen. The piece slides to the top of the enclosure (toward the 510) to place the screen on the x-axis. The slot is to hold the screen on the y-axis.

As MikeP said, hot glue won't hurt anything. I use it to hold the screen and board as well as the charging board and buttons. I use a lot of it. You can cover the whole back side of the screen but be careful not to cover the board too much.

I'd rather use hot glue than epoxy because it's easy to remove, again as MikeP said, with isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip.

Nicely done! This took me back many years ago to my model building days as a kid. I'd looked for the discounted open box kits, half the parts didn't fit, there would be missing parts or something I broke and I'd make up parts to finish them. It keep me busy and out of trouble, well for a while anyways.

 

[SlickWilly]

Just want to share how I enlarged the opening in the Hana box for the large screen. The width of the opening was fine, going from KTM's dimensions --> http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...55-mike-n-tibs-dna-mods-111.html#post15549235 I determine how much I needed to extend the opening. First I took a piece of plastic from one of those hard to open clam shell packages, I taped it to the front of the box and from the inside I followed the outline of the opening with a x-acto knife. This I used as a template to extend the opening by laying the template on the front to the length I needed while keeping the long flat sides aligned, once I had it in place I taped the template and scribe an outline for metal that needed to be removed.


With the layout done I used a needle file that only has cutting edges, with this file I could use the flats on each side of the existing opening as a guide to cut the length but just to the edge where the radius starts, I actually stopped a little short, it's easier to go back and file more later then take too much at the start. For the radius I use a half round file, starting at the center I cut toward the scribe mark while working side to side a little as I go to keep the shape of the radius as I worked. Just take your time, use the template to check the radius as you go and you'll be fine.


Once I had the opening finish I laid the screen inside while powered up to double check and found the recess cut on the inside was large enough to let one corner of the screen to fall into it. To fix that I filled recess with some auto body filler (bondo) I had in the shop, let it harden, sanded flat and cut away the bondo from the opening with the x-acto knife touching up the edges with some fine sand paper, then I brushed some flat black paint over the bondo. I could have used an epoxy but the bondo sets fast and is easier to sand.

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[tiburonfirst]

willy, don't be stingy with the picture sizing

i don't think we have too many twenty-somethings following along!

 

[SlickWilly]

willy, don't be stingy with the picture sizing

i don't think we have too many twenty-somethings following along!

Sounds good to me! I previewed the post and was afraid it would take up too much of the page so I changed it to the thumbs.

 

[tiburonfirst]

it's being hosted on pb so no harm done to ecf

 

[awsum140]

I will say I'm glad I got the boards in Mike's co-op. I'm going slowly broke ordering switches, wire, brass, machining bits, plexiglass, and on and on, the list keeps going and growing.. My biggest problem, in terms of design, is exactly how to make a battery door and keep it easy to build and reliable.

I'm going to fudge up a prototype in light aluminum to make sure it'll all go together properly and actually work before I start hacking up brass sheet.

 

[tiburonfirst]

if you stumble across a plexiglass/acrylic fabricator in your travels, holler!

i demolished the my parrot's feeding station and while it's glued back together it looks like heck is there a way to polish acrylic?

 

[KTMRider]

I will say I'm glad I got the boards in Mike's co-op. I'm going slowly broke ordering switches, wire, brass, machining bits, plexiglass, and on the list keeps going and growing.. My biggest problem, in terms of design, is exactly how to make a battery door and keep it easy to build and reliable.

I'm going to fudge up a prototype in light aluminum to make sure it'll all go together properly and actually work before I start hacking up brass sheet.

I started ordering the switches and wires while waiting for the boards. I ordered the hana mini clone specifically to upgrade to a DNA40. They sold an enclosure only but the size was wrong to fit a 18650 so I had to buy the complete mod. The chip it came with was pretty bad but seemed like a waste pulling it out. In the end, I like it much more than my VS rDNA40.

 

[KTMRider]

if you stumble across a plexiglass/acrylic fabricator in your travels, holler!

i demolished the my parrot's feeding station and while it's glued back together it looks like heck is there a way to polish acrylic?

Dremel and polishing compound.

 

[awsum140]

I started ordering the switches and wires while waiting for the boards. I ordered the hana mini clone specifically to upgrade to a DNA40. They sold an enclosure only but the size was wrong to fit a 18650 so I had to buy the complete mod. The chip it came with was pretty bad but seemed like a waste pulling it out. In the end, I like it much more than my VS rDNA40.

For what I've spent so far, between parts and tools, I could have bought two Vapor Flasks....but they are not what I want.

Tibs, you can polish acrylic or plexi with polishing compounds or wet/dry sandpaper. You do need to use very high grit for sandpaper, as in 2000 or 3000 grit. That can be had at a real automotive supply, not an Auto Zone. Maybe a NAPA, if not find a Sherwin Williams automotive paint supplier or a BASF automotive paint supplier and sweet talk them. Be sure to use it wet, really wet and you'll get a really nice polish. I've polished the cut edges of plexiglass that way and it does take time, but the finish can be made crystal clear.

 

[tiburonfirst]

thanks! not sure my glue job will stand up to that

 

[laurie9300]

Flame polishing works well too, just practice first.......

HOW TO: Flame polishing acrylic: https://youtu.be/Vx7MHdWXQvc

 

[tiburonfirst]

lol! guess i got part of the supplies for making an acrylic bending table already

 

[SlickWilly]

I finished up the Hana box tonight, seems to be working fine but the screen doesn't quit like described in the manual from Evolv. When I push the fire button the screen goes full bright but dims about 40-50% as soon as I let off the button, about thirty or so seconds after that the display fades to black and goes into sleep mode. The manual says the screen will stay full bright for ten seconds after the fire button is release, is the large screen different? There is no mention about the large screen in the manual so I'm not sure, does anyone have a manual that also covers the large screen?

From the manual;

"Auto power down
The screen will be at full brightness while firing. After 10 seconds with no button presses, the screen will dim. 30 seconds after the last button press, the screen will fade out and the device will go into sleep mode. To wake the device, press the fire button."

 

[tiburonfirst]

i've only got the regular size screen which dims after about 6 seconds not 10 and enters sleep mode quite fast ...............

 

[KTMRider]

On both small screens I have (1 from the co-op, 1 in my VS rDNA40 from 11/24/14) the screen is 100% when firing, 75%ish when I let go, dims after 7 seconds and turns off after 60 sec

On both large screens from the co-op, 100% when firing, 75%ish when I let go, no dimming and turns off after 60 sec. It might dim 1-2% after 7 seconds but it's very slight.

 

[SlickWilly]

Well I guess it doesn't matter now, something just fried out of the blue. Luckily I had left the cover off and I keep a ribbon under the battery so it's easy to pull out and I yanked it immediately. Strange that it took maybe forty firings before that happen, and I had looked everything over closely after the first couple firings to make sure everything was OK. I had the base to my Plume Veil on it letting it dry fire the coil while going through the settings and learning how it works while following the manual, hit the fire button again to watch how long it takes to shut down and poof! Top side of the board looks OK so it's got to be on the underside. Screw it, tomorrow's another day, I'm not going to dig into it tonight. I've had a headache half the day and my back has been acting up again, what I thought would brighten my day just put it over the edge. I'm going to take a pain pill and go to bed.

 

[awsum140]

Curious to know what went wrong, Willy.