My screens, both large and small, match what KTM said.
I dont think any documentation (from Evolv) mentions the large screen variant.
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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My screens, both large and small, match what KTM said.
I dont think any documentation (from Evolv) mentions the large screen variant.
Some pictures of everything might be helpful in understanding this.
Sorry to hear about your problems Willy 
It's part of the building your own mods thing. I had 1 of my 40's from the last run just short out for no reason
Evolv replaced it so alls well that ends well
I received a ZNA, I got off the classifieds yesterday. I bought it for about 50.00 shipped it was broken. I was going to put the last 40 I have from the last Co-Op.
When I had a look inside and saw how easy it was going to be just to replace the 30 that was in there thats what I did.
I'm a little OCD about how thing look, so knowing I would only run this in 18490 mod I thought a 30 would be fine, It also came from 1 of Mikes Co-Ops
It was real easy to fix only 3 wires to solder, a little finiky to get the board snapped in just right. It took me about and hour.
50.00 + 36.00 for the ZNA & the 30 and I have a perfectly working authentic ZNA for less than the price of a good clone
Cosmetically it's a 7 out of 10 cause someone tried to repair it before me and dinged it up a bit, I can live with that
It's a tinny little thing but has some serious weight to it.
Back to my OCD you can see there is a tiny gap under the atty (I hate that) luckily one of Zens resellers sells an adjustable 510 kit for a mere 16.00.
I ordered one yesterday and look forward to it's arrival
It's part of the building your own mods thing. I had 1 of my 40's from the last run just short out for no reason Evolv replaced it so alls well that ends well
I received a ZNA, I got off the classifieds yesterday. I bought it for about 50.00 shipped it was broken. I was going to put the last 40 I have from the last Co-Op.
When I had a look inside and saw how easy it was going to be just to replace the 30 that was in there thats what I did.
I'm a little OCD about how thing look, so knowing I would only run this in 18490 mod I thought a 30 would be fine, It also came from 1 of Mikes Co-Ops
It was real easy to fix only 3 wires to solder, a little finiky to get the board snapped in just right. It took me about and hour.
50.00 + 36.00 for the ZNA & the 30 and I have a perfectly working authentic ZNA for less than the price of a good clone
Cosmetically it's a 7 out of 10 cause someone tried to repair it before me and dinged it up a bit, I can live with that
It's a tinny little thing but has some serious weight to it.
Back to my OCD you can see there is a tiny gap under the atty (I hate that) luckily one of Zens resellers sells an adjustable 510 kit for a mere 16.00.
I ordered one yesterday and look forward to it's arrival
I took some pics after it was done and before it fried, I uploaded them to my photobucket. Took a quick look at it this morning, looking at the top of the board I can see a small burnt mark between #3 Fire+ pinout and #2 Down- as shown on the "Pinout" page in the manual. I put a yellow box around that location on the first before pic below. I'll get the board out to where I can see the back side and upload those pics as well after the coffee, nicotine and pain meds have fully kicked in. Watching my grand kids this morning, the girls demand Grandpa's attention so it will be later today.
Strange that it didn't fry right away, through out the build I'd put the battery in to make sure it was working and use the buttons on the board. As I suspected and confirmed in the manual those switch pinout circuits are not under much of a load, they are a signal to the transistors which then control the load circuit, like a relay. It even states in the manual an external fire switch "does not have to be rated for power". It has me scratching my head.
Sorry to hear about your problems Willy
Evolv replaced it so alls well that ends well
I received a ZNA, I got off the classifieds yesterday. I bought it for about 50.00 shipped it was broken. I was going to put the last 40 I have from the last Co-Op.
When I had a look inside and saw how easy it was going to be just to replace the 30 that was in there thats what I did.
I'm a little OCD about how thing look, so knowing I would only run this in 18490 mod I thought a 30 would be fine, It also came from 1 of Mikes Co-Ops
It was real easy to fix only 3 wires to solder, a little finiky to get the board snapped in just right. It took me about and hour.
50.00 + 36.00 for the ZNA & the 30 and I have a perfectly working authentic ZNA for less than the price of a good clone
Cosmetically it's a 7 out of 10 cause someone tried to repair it before me and dinged it up a bit, I can live with that
It's a tinny little thing but has some serious weight to it.
Back to my OCD you can see there is a tiny gap under the atty (I hate that) luckily one of Zens resellers sells an adjustable 510 kit for a mere 16.00.
I ordered one yesterday and look forward to it's arrival
Nice! THAT is just what I was looking to do and will do after I get another board. Yeah those are super easy to wire up, three wires and done.
Thats such a nice clean job must of took you a while? It's a shame you have to undo it all From your pics I can't see any thing wrong maybe the board is defective?
The black wire on the ZNA is unnecessary I put a tiny piece of copper in the bottom of the atty out hole(-) and ran it up along side of the board, so when you snap it in
it's squished between the board and the case creating the ground
Wish I would have taken more pic now I don't want to take all a part again.
must of took you a while? It's a shame you have to undo it all From your pics I can't see any thing wrong maybe the board is defective?The black wire on the ZNA is unnecessary I put a tiny piece of copper in the bottom of the atty out hole(-) and ran it up along side of the board, so when you snap it in
it's squished between the board and the case creating the ground
Wish I would have taken more pic now I don't want to take all a part again.
Thats such a nice clean job
The black wire on the ZNA is unnecessary I put a tiny piece of copper in the bottom of the atty out hole(-) and ran it up along side of the board, so when you snap it in
it's squished between the board and the case creating the ground
Wish I would have taken more pic now I don't want to take all a part again.
I have about four or five hours into it but the majority of the times was spent on opening the screen opening and making the pieces to hold the screen and the board. Taking it apart now won't be that bad, being able to disconnect and leave the screen in place really is a nice feature, also makes it easier to work with when building. If this turns out to be my fault I'm not going to ask Evolv for an RMA.
I was being very careful and read the manual before for the install, last thing I wanted was a problem from rushing. When you do these mods you roll the dice, my success rate is high but now and then..... That's the price of saving money, besides I love to tinker, always have. When I was a kid anything that broke and was going to be thrown away I'd take it apart to see how it worked and I'd try to fix it, sometimes I succeeded. When I was 11 my Father seized the engine on the riding mower from running it low on oil. Dad bought another mower and let me have at it, I took the motor apart, filed the connecting rod and crank shaft where it had seized, made new gaskets from cereal boxes and had it running within a couple days, it knocked from the loose tolerances but my Dad was amazed. I twisted wrench's for 25 years until I blew my back out, when I started we rebuilt everything expect for water pumps, now it's all parts swapping.
I rebuilt alternators, starters, master cylinders, steering boxes, engines, transmissions, you name it. The plastic printed circuits on the back of the GM dash panels were known to burn out, I'd take them off, solder a jumper across the bad spot instead of making the customer buy a new one. Same thing with the VW Rabbit fuse boxes that would burn out from the water leaking on them from a leak at the windshield. I'd take them apart, clean, dry and solder in jumpers to fix bad spots, but you also had to reseal the windshield otherwise it would be pointless.
Steamer, I got rambling away with story time again I forgot to ask where your getting the adjustable 510 for the ZNA from. The clone I have has an adjustable pin but the threads on the center pin is so loose it moved every time you put an atty on. I took the pin out, tinned it with solder to make it a tight fit but it will become loose again at some point and if I ever crank up the watts it'll melt the solder.
I forgot to ask where your getting the adjustable 510 for the ZNA from. The clone I have has an adjustable pin but the threads on the center pin is so loose it moved every time you put an atty on. I took the pin out, tinned it with solder to make it a tight fit but it will become loose again at some point and if I ever crank up the watts it'll melt the solder.
In the comments there is one were a guy says it works on the Z2 threaded clones too
Z2.2 510 Upgrade Kit – ElectronicStix.Com
Z2.2 510 Upgrade Kit – ElectronicStix.Com
Steamer, I got rambling away with story time again
In the comments there is one were a guy says it works on the Z2 threaded clones too
Z2.2 510 Upgrade Kit – ElectronicStix.Com
Thank you! That's just what the one in my ZNA looks like. I'd appreciate if you would let me know how well the center pin thread fit is, I mean loose as a goose or with some resistance. Mine was so loose it would move just from taking an atty on and off.
OK, here's the pics of the burnt board. One thing I found once I pulled the board out, the wire going to the Fire pinout (last pic) had fallen out of the hole once the solder melted, notice the wire doesn't appear to be burnt at all. Look's to me like it shorted on the board, I can't tell if it was from my wiring or the copper track in the board itself. What do you guys think?
The wire going to pin #3 (Positive side of the fire button) connects internally to B+. This is the wire that came loose. Is it possible that you had a short on the Fire Switch? A short there would essentially short B+ to ground and explain the heat you have seen.OK, here's the pics of the burnt board. One thing I found once I pulled the board out, the wire going to the Fire pinout (last pic) had fallen out of the hole once the solder melted, notice the wire doesn't appear to be burnt at all. Look's to me like it shorted on the board, I can't tell if it was from my wiring or the copper track in the board itself. What do you guys think?
Here's a couple more pics I just took showing the switch on the board, none of the wires were touching the switch, that I made sure of. I also checked to make sure there was no bleed over of solder from one wire to the other on both sides of the board once I had all the wire soldered in place. That said I can't say 100% that there might have been something I missed, it's strange it didn't short right away.
Ah, no chance of that Mike. You can see the switch soldered up in the prior photos, I'll go take some pics of the switch now.
Guy's, I feel like I'm derailed the thread, should I open a new thread or do this via PM?
Here's a link to all the photo's, http://s274.photobucket.com/user/guywil/library/DNA 40 Hana Mod
Here's pics of the switch on the mod and the + wire that ran to the switch, if it had shorted it seems the wire would look at least a little burnt.
Here's a link to all the photo's, http://s274.photobucket.com/user/guywil/library/DNA 40 Hana Mod
Here's pics of the switch on the mod and the + wire that ran to the switch, if it had shorted it seems the wire would look at least a little burnt.
I don't really have a clue what really went wrong, Willy, but in electronics the general rule of thumb is that if it works for a month, it'll work forever. Failures, if there's going to be one, seem to happen early.
Don't feel too bad, my favorite VTR just gave up the ghost today, after almost two years of heavy use.
Don't feel too bad, my favorite VTR just gave up the ghost today, after almost two years of heavy use.
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