Milo-DNA20D mod step-by-step how-to

[bapgood]

With metal cases, I first cut a pilot hole using the drill press, then use the dremel to further cut and shape the cutout, then use a needle file to straighten and square off the cutout.

20 Pcs 3mm Shank 3mm CED Tungsten Carbide Cutter Rotary Bur Burr Double Cut Set

12 Piece Precision Needle File Set

Mamu....Do you freehand with the dremel?

I recently (finally) got a regular dremel and dremel workstation, and it is awesome!!! I still love my dremel stylus for free hand stuff, but with the work station I can get a lot!!! cleaner and accurate cuts.

I'm thinking about setting up a fence and using it to router out some polycarb for the screen, so that the polycarb would install from the rear with a flange for glue and the face would set flush with the enclosure.

Here is a pic using the workstation as router/mill.....(Left Pocket) I just freehanded moving the piece and I thought it turned out good (except for the one spot where the bit came loose because I got excited to use it and forgot to tighten down the chuck )

 

[mamu]

I freehand using a flex shaft. Let us know how it goes with the polycarb for the screen - that would be cool.

 

[southside39]

First off I wanna say huge thanks to Mamu for posting this awesome guide. Secondly I was wondering where did you get the batteries with wires on the end? I bought a three pack off ebay and they had some weird tabs at the top and there was a circuit board connecting them and when I tried to take them apart I broke the tabs off so I don't think I can use them. Heres the battery I bought:
LiPo Li Poly 11 1v 1200mAh 25c 35C 3S 3S1P LiPo Battery Lion Power Car Boat Heli | eBay

 

[Azmo]

Not sure about those batteries. I bought these: 5X 3 7V 1000mAh 1200mAh 20c LiPo Battery Walkera 5G4Q3 5 10 4G1 HM 5G4 Z 21 | eBay

These are the same ones as in Mamu's guide.

The ones you bought are 3 batteries in series. You would need to rewire them in parallel. In series, they are 11.1V and you want 3.7V

 

[mamu]

First off I wanna say huge thanks to Mamu for posting this awesome guide. Secondly I was wondering where did you get the batteries with wires on the end? I bought a three pack off ebay and they had some weird tabs at the top and there was a circuit board connecting them and when I tried to take them apart I broke the tabs off so I don't think I can use them. Heres the battery I bought:
LiPo Li Poly 11 1v 1200mAh 25c 35C 3S 3S1P LiPo Battery Lion Power Car Boat Heli | eBay

For Milo, I use 2x single cell 1200mAh, 25C lipo batts that I wire together in parallel.

Lots of ebay sellers sell this batt - just search 1200mAh 25C and the correct batt will show up in the search. The size you're looking for is 62mm x 30mm x 8mm.

 

[toddiegee]

Mamu do you know of any where I can find an aluminum enclosure with a magnetic cover or sliding cover so I can make something similar using a replaceable 18650?

 

[T1lVl]

Mamu. I'm trying to incorpate my dna20 in a REO.

Does the battery negative need to go to the plate/spring for the battery negative or could I use any type of ground?

Also do you know if I could use any ground for atomizer ground?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bapgood]

Mamu. I'm trying to incorpate my dna20 in a REO.

Does the battery negative need to go to the plate/spring for the battery negative or could I use any type of ground?

Also do you know if I could use any ground for atomizer ground?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

I would recommend not using the stock Reo negative spring. The plate is ok to use but the spring is very inefficient, so I suggest either eliminate the spring or replace it with a better one.

All the grounds on the DNA are shared. So if your going to use the body of the Reo as ground you don't need a ground wire running to the connector. Just make sure you use good 20g wire to the body/negative battery contact.

 

[xpen]

I would recommend not using the stock Reo negative spring. The plate is ok to use but the spring is very inefficient, so I suggest either eliminate the spring or replace it with a better one.

All the grounds on the DNA are shared. So if your going to use the body of the Reo as ground you don't need a ground wire running to the connector. Just make sure you use good 20g wire to the body/negative battery contact.

I'm just wondering if the ohm reading won't be affected by a common ground for the atom connector, as good a conductor the Reo's aluminum (?) is..

 

[TBinAZ]

Quick question for you all. I've been searching for those tiny silver domed tactile switches a lot of you use. Can you throw me a link to where I can find them? I would appreciate it. My searches have come up empty. I must be losing my touch.

 

[bapgood]

Quick question for you all. I've been searching for those tiny silver domed tactile switches a lot of you use. Can you throw me a link to where I can find them? I would appreciate it. My searches have come up empty. I must be losing my touch.

KSJ0M21180SHLFT for C&K Components | Arrow Electronics Components

KSJ0M211 80SH LFT C&K Components | Mouser

 

[TBinAZ]

Amazing. I searched around those sites but didn't know the manufacturer at the time. Perfect man, thanks a lot.

 

[T1lVl]

Anyone have some extra buttons like those they want to get rid of?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[TS12000]

Quick question for you all. I've been searching for those tiny silver domed tactile switches a lot of you use. Can you throw me a link to where I can find them? I would appreciate it. My searches have come up empty. I must be losing my touch.

Here's the ones I used

http://components.arrow.com/part/detail/43425636S8302877N9444?region=na

 

[sydsdad]

So cool ,im collecting my parts as I write. Cant say TY enough very nice thing to do.

 

[puchox]

First, thx Mamu for creating such a good tutorial to share I'd been looking for parts and batteries to make my own dna20 mod for a kayfun 3.1 clone.

I have 2 questions if anyone could help, would this battery work with the dna20? Turnigy nano-tech A-SPEC 6000mah 1S 65~130C Hardcase Lipo Pack

And second, i'd like to choose another type of button, do i have to look for particular info, for example 12mm Illuminated Vandal Proof Switch BLUE would these work?}

Thx in advance

 

[Azmo]

First, thx Mamu for creating such a good tutorial to share I'd been looking for parts and batteries to make my own dna20 mod for a kayfun 3.1 clone.

I have 2 questions if anyone could help, would this battery work with the dna20? Turnigy nano-tech A-SPEC 6000mah 1S 65~130C Hardcase Lipo Pack

And second, i'd like to choose another type of button, do i have to look for particular info, for example 12mm Illuminated Vandal Proof Switch BLUE would these work?}

Thx in advance

That battery would work, it's just very large. You can save some room by taking the hardcase off.

Again, that switch will take up quite a bit of room on the inside. The diameter is not bad, but the depth is long. Also, you will need to figure out how to wire the LED if you actually want it to work. The problem is that the fire button is not a switch between the battery and the board. I considered another leg from the battery to drive the LED, but couldn't be sure that it wouldn't pass too much voltage to the board.

You can use a non-illuminated anti-vandal switch without a problem though.

 

[bapgood]

I have 2 questions if anyone could help, would this battery work with the dna20? Turnigy nano-tech A-SPEC 6000mah 1S 65~130C Hardcase Lipo Pack

I have used that exact battery and it lasts and lasts (days) and takes forever to charge if fully drained (~12hrs w/DNA charger). Removing the hard case you can get the size down to roughly 3.2" x 1.65" x 0.625"

 

[puchox]

Thx for the replies, while i'm using Mamu's tutorial i'll probably go with a custom design. I'm still drawing and thinking different designs, while the 6000mah seems great the whole package is a little bit long. I'll probably stick to parallel 18650's

Regarding the button maybe i should stick to non illuminated until i have a better grasp of the electronic side

 

[showell]

I would like to give thanks to everyone who has given out information on this thread it's PACKED FULL of INFO. After reading though every word I too decided to build a dna20 now I have pretty much modeled everything around Mamu's Milo and I greatly appreciate the tutorial it is amazing. Now I have received all my parts my lipo's were 3s so I broke them down which made the tabs exposed so I guess I solder a wire back to them and silicone or epoxy around them and since it's dc it don't matter which I use for positive or negative correct...