Not that I've had time for it lately, but I am a hobbyist woodworker. I do not have a Woodvil, but I've seen what types of woods Rob uses. IIRC, he uses all hardwoods. Off of the top of my head, maple is probably the softest wood he uses, but maple is still a hardwood. Most of his woods are exotics, which are extremely hard woods. Regardless of how hard the wood is, some care should still be taken. Even the hardest of woods can still be brittle, they can be strong in how much weight they can withstand, but dropping on a hard floor can still chip them.
To add to what RD said, IMO... I also crafted endless worldwide species of woods, quite seriously for over 50 years, where the exact traits, toxicities, and resonance of each species were factors I had to learn and know. And most of my woods were imported direct from sawyer friends in the countries where the species grew. In the long run expensive, but how you get the best of the best.
Charts and graphs are fine as far as they go, but they are generalizations. There are many factors involved with any particular piece of wood that may or may not fit that particular piece into a generalization for that species. IE, where within the plant X piece of wood grew (root, buttress, trunk, branch, crotch, graft, heartwood, sapwood, root burl, aerial burl, etc); what environment the plant grew in (rate of growth); whether harvested from live wood or dead fall; how it was cut (flatsawn, quartersawn, riftsawn, etc); how was it cured (kiln or air dried), etc. IOW, some wood from an individual plant/given species can be very durable, some not as durable, some weak; some prone to checking/cracking, some not; some more prone to warping, some not, etc.
Weight in itself does not make a wood more durable. The heaviest will not float (they sink like a rock), but some heavy species can still be brittle. Not the heaviest, but the king of durability is the Guaiacum species. Even bearings have been made out of it. More flexible woods may stand up better to drops. Which direction the grain runs in a project another factor. Robert covers that pretty well with his Woodvil's running the grain long. And by rounding the corners he adds a lot of durability to any species or wood he uses. The doors themselves are at the highest risk to warping/splitting by default. Unless chunks are actually gouged out/broken off and lost most woods are repairable, from to near as good as new to good enough fairly easily.
IMO the Woodvil is a well thought out solid design no matter what wood Rob uses, sold for a reasonable price that all can afford. I would like to see some offered with higher grade woods used in them, but that would add to their cost, and with some exhibition grade woods could make the price way out of the range of the budget conscious.
