Most reliable switches?

[mistinthewoods]

Howdy folks, I'm looking for small switches for the mods I make that will last for a long time. I've been using the ones from madvapes that are rated at 2 amps( Push Button Switch -- Black ).
I've had a DOA (which they were very cool about replacing) and a couple failures after about a month with these. Is the amperage rating directly related to longevity? Would a 3 amp switch last longer or are some just made better than others? I'm looking for small and attractive switches but it's most important that they last. Does running 6 volts with a high res. atty make switches burn out faster?
Comments? Suggestions? Thanx

 

[WillyB]

Choosing switches can be a pain. I bought some of those (NO type)from MV quite a while ago and they worked fine. They are delicate though so careful soldering (quick) is required, and they won't survive much of a drop. It's hard to tell if he's still selling the same ones as the description, 2A@12V, has changed. If you look around there are many identical looking switches being sold for as little as 30¢. Ratings are usually listed at 120/240V in the 2-6A range.

Just going to a high amp rating cheap switch doesn't mean the construction/materials used are much better. Cheap switches rarely list what the contacts are (brass, silver, platinum etc) or give a Mechanical and Electrical life rating.

You may just want to give these a shot. They are definitely a step up.

C&K Components 3A Black Pushbutton switch

HV atties come in various ohms. Find yours and use this to determine your amps.

Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

 

[mistinthewoods]

Thanks Willy, those look like the switches that Jeff uses in the Chuck. I thought I had seen all the switches that madvapes carried. Guess not. I'm gonna order a mittful-o-dees.

 

[Rocketman]

Contact design is sometimes different for AC switches than DC switches.
If a switch contact gets a little dirty, corroded, it will start to arc. AC current goes through zero volts every so often (it's AC) and will stop an arc allowing the switch contacts to separate (like turn off). DC can weld a switch shut if overloaded. Overloading can pit, and burn the contacts making then unreliable.
That's why you see different AC and DC current rating on a lot of switches.

R

 

[Shortstuff116]

I remember getting those smaller round switches from Madvapes some time ago but they stopped carrying them and went with the larger round buttons. I've done some searching and found those smaller ones rated at 3A/125v here at Jameco and just ordered a bunch of them. They've always worked really good for me and fit well inside my mods.

 

[mistinthewoods]

Thanks shortstuff, unfortunately those horn style switches are just too big for my application. They're great for box mods though.

 

[mistinthewoods]

Rocket, you always seem to respond when I have a question. I appreciate that man, but you have a much better understanding of dees dang electronical doo-hickies than I have.
Soo... my follow up questions will be as follows. I don't fully understand the nature of current. I assumed that batteries supplied a direct current (or have I made an ... of U and ME?). What kind of current rating am I looking for using, say up to 6 volts max (2 3.0 V RCR 123s) and does a high resistance atty (5.2 ohm 901) effect the current to the switch even though the atomizer is after the switch?
Sorry for the simpleton questions. Still learning this stuff. You wanna talk about the cellular structure of different species of wood? Art history, 16th century to the present maybe? I might sound a little smarter then. ha ha

 

[Rocketman]

mist,
6 volts with a Hi-Res atty is about the same to the switch as a regular atty on 3.7 volts. The difference between 3.7 and 6 (Direct current) is minor. Very low voltages (0.1 volt) or higher DC voltages (greater than 12) react differently with contact corrosion and arcing. The current, greater than an amp, but less than 2 amps, also impacts most switches the same. If a switch can handle 1 amp DC, probably can handle 2. Go to 3, or more and that needs a switch that is either hermetically sealed, or has a wiping action, or special metal alloys. Often, a switch that makes a little clicky sound has a wiping movement when the contacts make, but we don't want clicky noises when we vape. There are some switch design tutorials out there that can provide more info and aren't that hard to follow.

and: current goes round and round through the circuit, first come first serve does not apply.

If you want a good quality switch you will have to get a 'name brand' switch that has a mechanical life cycle rating. The dollar switch would then cost four dollars. but that is the price for quality. The 39 cent switch, I use them, might last for a few months, but in addition to being electrically inferior, are physically inferior (they break).

Placement/mounting of the switch so it doesn't see excessive force is important with the cheaper, weaking switches.

A cheap, super miniature, high current, long lasting, high quality switch would have contacts made of solid unobtanium. A slighly cheaper version would have contact plated with the same material.

Which side were you rooting for in Avatar?

The super cheap copper/nickel plated steel contacts in the modified flashlight switch I use in my mods seem to defy all of the above. I guess the contacts squiggle around enough to keep the surface clean.

A dollar push button switch and a dollar Mosfet might be something to consider.

Rocket
(and thanks for the compliment)


Here is a good switch. Silver alloy contacts, 3 amps AC or DC, excellent mechanical construction, $5 or so. You would have to go to a $10 switch to beat it.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=360-2301-ND

specifications:
http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/SB4011.pdf

 

[WillyB]

.. Often, a switch that makes a little clicky sound has a wiping movement when the contacts make, but we don't want clicky noises when we vape. There are some switch design tutorials out there that can provide more info and aren't that hard to follow.


Here is a good switch. Silver alloy contacts, 3 amps AC or DC, excellent mechanical construction, $5 or so. You would have to go to a $10 switch to beat it.

Digi-Key - 360-2301-ND (Manufacturer - SB4011NOHC-RO)

specifications:
http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/SB4011.pdf

I think a lot of people like the 'clicky noise' aspect of some switches.

The 3A NKK switch looks good, but the OP should note it is about the same size (the button) as this popular RS model.

3A 125V SPST Pushbutton Momentary Switch - RadioShack.com

 

[mistinthewoods]

Rocket and wb, thanks for the input. I'm afraid the search goes on though. Willy's right I checked the spec sheet and noted that the switch is nearly 1/2" in diamiter. I need to be able to mount these on the END of a pipe mod just under the atty connecter. There's a pic of a similar design that I posted in this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/81479-painting-logs-4.html I've been trying to improve this basic Fog Log design of Jeffs. I like using a back button. In fact I've been using the one in the pic exclusively since I made it, except when I had to rip it apart and replace the $.99 switch. I was rooting for the little glowing fruitflies, rocket. I just need to get a well made sub mini or mini NO tactile switch I guess.

 

[mistinthewoods]

Just ordered a handfull of those C&K 3A switches from madvapes for $6.49 each. I hope they're good ones. Anybody familiar with these? They seem to be the same size as the $.99 ones I was using but I hope they're $5.50 better.
This brings the material cost up to about $15.00 per unit, but if these end up going out to the public it'll be worth it to not have them coming back for switch replacement as often.

 

[Sir_Lawrence]

Just ordered a handfull of those C&K 3A switches from madvapes for $6.49 each. I hope they're good ones. Anybody familiar with these? They seem to be the same size as the $.99 ones I was using but I hope they're $5.50 better.
This brings the material cost up to about $15.00 per unit, but if these end up going out to the public it'll be worth it to not have them coming back for switch replacement as often.

C&K switches, I found, seems to last a lot longer than most. They have specs up to 100,000 pushes. That's what I was told by one of the rep's technical people. So, if you vape about 200 pushes a day, that's 500 days before they have problems. I'm only going by what the tech told me. I haven't tested those that long, and I did have 2 of them burn out from the original 5 I got from them. Hope this helps.

 

[mistinthewoods]

Yes sir, Sir that's good info. I feel a little better about these. Thanks a bundle.

 

[Sir_Lawrence]

Yes sir, Sir that's good info. I feel a little better about these. Thanks a bundle.

Also, do yourself a favor and go directly to their site. Find out who the rep is in your area and they can send you like 5-10 samples. Make sure you have all of their info numbers correct, and definitely use their 3amp switches.

 

[mistinthewoods]

I can see why you were Knighted good Sir!

 

[RjG]

If you MUST use a switch, the only switches that will last are ones that "snap" when you press them... the contacts click closed with a spring, minimizing the spark that trashes the contacts with a large load like an E-Cig mod. Anything else is just delaying the inevitable.

example: SUB-MINI LEVER SWITCH, SPDT - The Source by Circuit City, Hamilton, Canada
or http://www.apem.com/pdf/snap_action.pdf

I have used these in mods, and they don't wear out. Plus, if you just drill a very small hole, pull the LEVER OFF so there's just a button, then you have a very nice almost flush vape button. Or be creative with the lever and make your own button ;-)

I don't use any heavy duty switches anymore. MOSFET is 100% superior. They never wear out, and all you need is an inexpensive switch.

 

[mistinthewoods]

RjG, I've looked at a few of these little lever style switches, however the design I'm developing is of a "back button" configuration. I mean that the switch is located at the end of the body next to the atty connecter which requires that the body of the switch be small as well as the button. Thanks for the response though. I'm soaking up all the info I can right now.