MVP 2.0 and Stillare RDA.

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I have just bought a stillare rda and I am currently running it on an iTaste MVP 2.0 until I get my dna 30.

I am a newbie to building so would like some advice.

I am using 28 gauge kanthol A1 wire.

what build would be the best using this wire on the MVP 2.0 for the best results in vape production and flavour?

e.g

how many wraps in the coil?

few instructions please

many thanks
 

K_Tech

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The MVP 2 will only fire down to about 1.2 ohms (there have been varying reports about what they'll actually handle, I've seen some people claim that they've fired a 0.7 ohm coil on theirs but a lot of them won't go below 1.1 - 1.2 ohms) so that will limit what you can do.

Having said that, for a single 28 gauge coil at 1.3 ohms try 8 wraps on a 5/64" (about 2 mm) drill bit. That will keep you in the operating envelope of the MVP 2.
 

State O' Flux

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I have just bought a stillare RDA and I am currently running it on an iTaste MVP 2.0 until I get my DNA 30.

I am a newbie to building so would like some advice.

I am using 28 gauge kanthol A1 wire.

what build would be the best using this wire on the MVP 2.0 for the best results in vape production and flavour?

e.g

how many wraps in the coil?

few instructions please

many thanks
For future reference, Robbo... a bit of Ohm's Law will help, as will a coil modeling program.
The MVP has a 3 amp / 11 watt limit. If you enter that data in a simple Ohm's Law calculator, you can determine you're lower resistance limit... which coincides exactly with the resistance value provided by K_Tech.

Now, we take your 28 gauge wire, along with the knowledge that you can't go below 1.2Ω, and run that through the Steam Engine coil modeling program. Fill in the parameters... single or dual parallel coil? Your mandrel diameter? Typical leg length on a RDA is 3-4mm.

Lets say the set-up is "dual parallel", on a 2.5mm mandrel, with a 4mm leg length. If you look in the "Results" box, you'll see a 14 wrap coil, and a "blue" color code in the "heat flux" line. This is telling you the heat flux value is too low, or "cold". You want a higher heat flux value... and a coil with fewer wraps. 7~11 wraps is a good range to work in, as it will provide adequate coil surface area.

So... if all you have is 28 gauge, and you're limited to 1.2Ω, you'll be better off, for now, with a single coil. Lets build one... shall we? Switch the set-up to "single coil". And there it is... with no other changes, the result is a single, 7 wrap coil with a heat flux of 142... in the desired "green" color code.

If we change the mandrel to 2.0mm, the coil count goes up one, the heat flux rises slightly, and we're still in the green zone - which means the information provided by K_Tech is right on the money for a single, 1.2Ω coil build... if you have a 2mm mandrel. For a single coil on your Stillare (if you have a 3 slot AFC)... make sure only one AFC port is open, right in line with your coil.

Don't know how, or have the capability to measure mandrel diameters? Have some fractional drill bits? Go to the "Inner diameter of coil" line and click on the x/y" box... now you have fractional sizes. Click on 5/64"... that is the near equivalent of a 2mm mandrel at 1.984mm. Common build mandrel sizes run from 1.5mm to 3.0mm... and anywhere in between.

This is all stuff you will want to learn, as you become more familiar with rebuildables. It may seem slightly overwhelming right now, but if you keep at it, you'll pick it up fairly quickly.
Once you get your DNA30, you can switch to the same exact build, but with dual parallel coils - for a net resistance of 0.6Ω... just slightly above the lowest resistance you can run with a DNA30.

Click on my first sigline hyperlink for more useful information, and... have fun! ;-)
 
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