.....any o-ring you could possibly think of...
Oringsandmore
They are dirt cheap, and ship same day most of the time.
Oringsandmore
They are dirt cheap, and ship same day most of the time.
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I found them at the hardware store, OSH. The groove on the Liquintor is thinner than the o-rings I found. So I used an #004 that was a little small and thinned over the atty. You might have to take it all in and find one that fits.
Inspired by this thread, I made my atty tank tonight. I took a DSE-150 1.8 lr chrome 510 atty from Value Vapor and punched a hole right above the cup next to the bridge with a sharp dry wall screw. You could screw the atty on your pv and mark where you want to punch the hole first. I took the lil mama tube from Big Daddy Vapor and grinded it down so the inside o-rings sealed on the atty on my bench grinder. Then I slipped one of their new black anodized caps on one end filled it a little more than half way covering the hole, then slipped the other cap on and a black/clear drip tip.
The tank is a little small due having to shorten it to seal onto the atty sleeve but it works pretty good. I'll tilt the Provari to where the hole is submerged. If I feel it starts to get dry I just pre fill by sucking before I fire the atty and it wets the atty again. The only thing is that when filling it I remove the cap with the connection side and leave the other one on the drip tip side. Then I tilt the tank so the hole is not submerged when filling and when I press the cap back on, otherwise the pressure will push the juice through the hole and into the atty and/or vent holes out the bottom of the atty.
Does someone make extra long atties? This would let you use the full length of the lil mama or big daddy tubes and hold more juice.
The tank is a little small due having to shorten it to seal onto the atty sleeve but it works pretty good. I'll tilt the Provari to where the hole is submerged. If I feel it starts to get dry I just pre fill by sucking before I fire the atty and it wets the atty again. The only thing is that when filling it I remove the cap with the connection side and leave the other one on the drip tip side. Then I tilt the tank so the hole is not submerged when filling and when I press the cap back on, otherwise the pressure will push the juice through the hole and into the atty and/or vent holes out the bottom of the atty.
Does someone make extra long atties? This would let you use the full length of the lil mama or big daddy tubes and hold more juice.
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Still working good. I just want to find a taller 510 atty so I don't have to shorten a lil mama tank or use the taller big daddy to hold more juice. If not I have to get a very thin sleeve to fit over the atty and not be to tight for the inside o-rings on the caps.
Liquid does not fill the sleeve. The holes we have made are too small. Juice feeding happens by suction when you take a hit off the tank.
Only issue I have is leaking through the connector holes. I made 4 tiny holes on the level of were exactly the bridge starts, just a hair above the rim. I tried a litle bit higher also, still leaking....a little bit lower burned taste....
Well I ordered some Joye mega atties and will be punching these to either fit the lil mama tube or big daddy tube.
Is the tube diameter of these "Joye mega atties" the same size as the cartos the tanks are designed for? If so where are you buying the long tube atties?
Errol
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Good find! Was thinking about going that rout but I have a couple of DC atties I wanted to try but they're the same length as regular atties. I didn't want to mess with them yet so I did some experimenting using a 1.8ohn Cisco I had laying around. I gutted an old atty and joined them together with a condom. The condom easily fits inside the tank with room to spare at the top so it has no effect on the upper seal.
I built a wood saddle that I can clamp together and adjust the drill depth to just barely pierce the tube. I then drilled a 1/16 hole level with the top of the bridge. Didn't want to punch a hole as that would leave a dimple that would hinder my flow adjusting method.
I use this 5ml tank http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...94316-d-b-gold-has-echo-e-cartomizers-56.html with thick end plugs and a fill hole hence I'm able to move the tank up and down on the barrel to cover the hole or any portion of it and can fill it without disassembling and the risk of messing up the connection of the tubes. Currently I have the hole covered about 90% and still have to leave the unit laying flat or it seeps, even with all VG. Perhaps the end plug isn't sealing the hole as effectively as it looks.
My next venture with the DC atties will be to drill a smaller hole, experiment by covering part of the hole with a condom if needed in addition to adjusting the tank up and down to cover the hole to try to find a point where it doesn't seep.
If things continue to seep I'll simply fill the tank all the way and only uncover the hole when I need to replenish the atty.
Errol
have you tied removing the atty shell(tube) and replace it with a carto tube? it is longer than the atty tube. i was able to remove the tube of the atty and replaced it with an xl or rg atty tube. i scewed it to an old 510 bat and worked it loose by prying it back and forth a bit till it came off..them switched them.....
Ok I received the mega Joye lr atties yesterday and punched one of them. I took a flat toothpick and placed it in the atty to guage the depth on where to punch the atty. I had the tip of the toothpick sit on top of a ridge of the inner sleeve at the perfect level the bridge is located. Then marked the toothpick at the top of the atty tube. Then you take the toothpick and place it outside the sleeve, lining up the mark on the toothpick to the top of the sleeve. The bottom of the toothpick is where you'll mark your target on the atty with a sharpie. I also fully threaded the atty onto the Provari so I can also guage on where I wanted rotation of the hole to be placed then marked it with the sharpie. I had it line up with the fire button of the Provari. The sharpie marks will wipe right off once your done. The mega atty is a few mm shorter than the shorter cartos the lil mama tank uses but long enough for the o-rings to seal on both caps.
I punched it the same way with a drywall screw but once I pierced it I hit the screw one more time with a small hammer to slightly enlarge the punch hole. I held the drywall screw in place on the atty by holding the scew in place on a flat surface with my left hand between my thumb and pointing finger on top of the atty while I hit the screw with the small hammer in my right hand.
I filled the tank with china eliquid 555 which is mostly pg, a thinner juice. With the slightly larger hole it would slowly leak into the atty if I had the hole submerged with the liquid. An indication of this were the small bubbles coming up from the punched hole with the pv standing and the hole submerged in juice. If I put it down I had to lay the pv on its side to have the hole above the juice level. So after I vaped the 555 I filled it with Madvapes cantaloupe which is more vg, a thicker juice. It stopped leaking into the atty by itself when the hole was submerged. The only thing with these lr mega atties is since they were 1.5ohms the max voltage I could set the Provari at was 3.9v before giving me an error at 4.0v. Now to buy some 2.5 ohm mega atties.
santo19586 has a great idea in taking the tubes off the long cartos. The only thing is trying to separate them from the threaded section seems hard to do without tweeking the tube. Santo could you give us a step by step on how you do this without compromising the tube?
I punched it the same way with a drywall screw but once I pierced it I hit the screw one more time with a small hammer to slightly enlarge the punch hole. I held the drywall screw in place on the atty by holding the scew in place on a flat surface with my left hand between my thumb and pointing finger on top of the atty while I hit the screw with the small hammer in my right hand.
I filled the tank with china eliquid 555 which is mostly pg, a thinner juice. With the slightly larger hole it would slowly leak into the atty if I had the hole submerged with the liquid. An indication of this were the small bubbles coming up from the punched hole with the pv standing and the hole submerged in juice. If I put it down I had to lay the pv on its side to have the hole above the juice level. So after I vaped the 555 I filled it with Madvapes cantaloupe which is more vg, a thicker juice. It stopped leaking into the atty by itself when the hole was submerged. The only thing with these lr mega atties is since they were 1.5ohms the max voltage I could set the Provari at was 3.9v before giving me an error at 4.0v. Now to buy some 2.5 ohm mega atties.
santo19586 has a great idea in taking the tubes off the long cartos. The only thing is trying to separate them from the threaded section seems hard to do without tweeking the tube. Santo could you give us a step by step on how you do this without compromising the tube?
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MWA:
1. THANKS... !!! This is certainly the best tank experience EVER... !!!! MWA-Tanks ROCK !!!
You are The BEaST !!!!
2. Any updates... !? How is that 510/901 idea, bottom-feeding simple-basic mod doing... !??
3. On a different note: I wanted you to know I no longer over-tighten my atties; heeee... (@ P+'s thread input... Remember?) I got rid of this annoying habit... !!!! =)
1. THANKS... !!! This is certainly the best tank experience EVER... !!!! MWA-Tanks ROCK !!!
You are The BEaST !!!!
2. Any updates... !? How is that 510/901 idea, bottom-feeding simple-basic mod doing... !??
3. On a different note: I wanted you to know I no longer over-tighten my atties; heeee... (@ P+'s thread input... Remember?) I got rid of this annoying habit... !!!! =)
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Made two tonight, I used a gutted fluxomizer tube since it fits very snug over the 306 stock sleeve. I used a sharp needle for the initial punch, then a larger gauge, 18 I think to make it bigger. I only put one hole in as two was starting to flood the atty leaking in the catch cup. Single hole just means I take a couple dry pulls then vape. On the plus side, with one hole I can hit this tank like cigarett, I'm using 70/30 vg/pg juice.
I use a blunt 18 guage to fill.
Btw this is on a syringe tank mod
I use a blunt 18 guage to fill.
Btw this is on a syringe tank mod
>"So after I vaped the 555 I filled it with Madvapes cantaloupe which is more vg, a thicker juice. It stopped leaking into the atty by itself when the hole was submerged."
That's a beautiful setup you have dogtown. Is your atty still not leaking when left alone with your hole submerged? I ask because with my second generation tank atty I drilled a 1/32" hole, by appearances about 1/2 the size of the hole you punched, and it take about ten minutes for it to leak enough to fill the atty to the leaking point when left standing with the hole submerged using 100/0 vg/pg juice.
Errol
That's a beautiful setup you have dogtown. Is your atty still not leaking when left alone with your hole submerged? I ask because with my second generation tank atty I drilled a 1/32" hole, by appearances about 1/2 the size of the hole you punched, and it take about ten minutes for it to leak enough to fill the atty to the leaking point when left standing with the hole submerged using 100/0 vg/pg juice.
Errol
I had to stop using the two tanks I made, I had only placed one small hole just below top of the bridge in the 306 sleeve, and it worked great, very flavorful and lots (too much actually) of vapor. The next morning though my catch cup was full and it wouldn't stop leaking. Blew it out again, and it worked great again but it seeps/leaks a LOT when not in use. I'm using 70/30 vg/pg so I dnt think the liquid is the issue. Anyone have this issue? Any solutions?
The first one I made was a tad larger puched hole but it worked perfect with the higher vg content cantaloupe by Madvapes. The second one is a smaller hole but I used a new set of caps from Big Daddy which I was sent an email stating the machinist made these out of spec and spun loosely around the atty so it leaked. I switched it to a set of their older caps and put some thinner mostly pg china 555 liquid. It seems to work pretty good without it leaking into the atty but if it does I'll thicken it up with some vg.
It really has to do with the size of the hole and the viscosity of the juice. If you see bubbles coming up from the hole with it submerged, it's most likely leaking into the atty. I like the idea of a thin secondary sleeve over the metal sleevewhere you can punch a hole through both and turn the outer to regulate the flow by blocking the hole partially.
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Well figured out if I push the 306 tan sleeve all the way into the longer fluxomizer sleeve then it does two things. The first is that the 306 sleeve won't move anywhere and the second is, there is no longer any gap between the fluxo sleeve and the 306 sleeve.
Been using the tank again for two days now, it has two needle holes and it flooded once. I made a syringe tank using some thinner rubber plungers, and these allow me to push the tank up over the inlet holes when I'm not using it and voila, no more flooding.
Been using the tank again for two days now, it has two needle holes and it flooded once. I made a syringe tank using some thinner rubber plungers, and these allow me to push the tank up over the inlet holes when I'm not using it and voila, no more flooding.
Pleased to see someone else finds that bullet proof method of flood control effective.
My current iteration of the tank atty is with a LR Bridgless 901 atty and it works beautifully.
Errol
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