My attempt to illuminate the GGTS

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NatureBoy

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So I had an idea to illuminate the GGTS from the inside, so light could shine through all of the holes on the bottom cap.

It started off well, but kinda ended in failure.

Here is my story:

I started off by looking for something I could use as a cap to attach to a battery, while being able to have some sort of contact between the battery and center pole of the atty adapter. After a bit of digging around, I came across some silicone ear tips that I don't use that came with my Apple in-ear earphones.

First, I set everything up on the desk. I got my soldering station out, some solder, some clippers, heatshrink tubing, wires scraps from an old USB cable, exacto knife, 10k resistor, UV led, the center post from a 510 atty, the GGTS for fitting and a battery.

GGTS_led1.jpg


GGTS_led2.jpg



First thing I had to do was trim off about half of the center part of the silicone ear tip. I did this by flipping it inside out, then used the exacto knife to trim off the rubber.

GGTS_led3.jpg



Here you can see the brass post from the 510 atty I removed to use as the contact between the battery and the atty connector of the GGTS.

GGTS_led4.jpg



And this is how it looks fitted inside the trimmed silicon ear tip. A perfect fit!

GGTS_led5.jpg



Next thing to do was to solder some wire to the contact.

GGTS_led6.jpg



Then I fed the wire through the top of the tip and pushed the contact into the rubber post until it was flush fit.

GGTS_led7.jpg



Here's how it looked fitted onto the battery, again a perfect fit!

GGTS_led8.jpg



Ok, so now I had to solder the resistor to the positive contact of the LED. Nice and sloppy (it's been a while since I soldered anything)....

GGTS_led9.jpg



Then I slid on some of the heatshrink tubing onto the wire before soldering the end onto the resistor.

GGTS_led10.jpg


GGTS_led11.jpg



And applied some heat from a lighter to shrink the tubing.

GGTS_led12.jpg



Ok, so at this point I have the battery cap finished and ready to go, as well as the LED. Now I had to figure out how to attach the ground from the LED to complete the circuit.

Everything was going great until this point. This is where I started to fart up a storm in my brain. At first I thought I could bend the little leg into a shape and wedge it into the spring.

GGTS_led13.jpg



But I quickly realized this was not the smartest idea since the spring is already making contact with the ground from the battery, and so as soon as the battery is put into the GGTS the LED would light. Not what I had in mind.

So... I tried wedging it into the brass end.

GGTS_led15.jpg



But that didn't work so well. So then I got some tiny magnets and tried wedging those in. It seemed to do the trick.... kinda....

GGTS_led16.jpg


GGTS_led17.jpg



It lit up ok, but the UV leds are pretty dim and the light wasn't evenly distributed at the bottom through the holes. A disappointing end result.

So I played around with a glow in the dark button clicky from a flashlight by trimming off the rim to get a ring of glow in the dark rubber. I cut a slit and fit it around the pole in the brass end. Then I wedged the negative wire from the LED in with another piece of rubber.

This is the end result:

GGTS_led18.jpg



Kinda disappointing... and 3 hours later I'm not all that happy with it. But hey, I'm not giving up just yet... I'll see what else I can come up with. I'd like a much brighter output, and I don't want glow in the dark green color either.. I want light shining through all of the holes somehow.

Any creative input is more than welcome! :)
 
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imeothanasis

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So I had an idea to illuminate the GGTS from the inside, so light could shine through all of the holes on the bottom cap.

It started off well, but kinda ended in failure.

Here is my story:

I started off by looking for something I could use as a cap to attach to a battery, while being able to have some sort of contact between the battery and center pole of the atty adapter. After a bit of digging around, I came across some silicone ear tips that I don't use that came with my Apple in-ear earphones.

First, I set everything up on the desk. I got my soldering station out, some solder, some clippers, heatshrink tubing, wires scraps from an old USB cable, exacto knife, 10k resistor, UV led, the center post from a 510 atty, the GGTS for fitting and a battery.

GGTS_led1.jpg


GGTS_led2.jpg



First thing I had to do was trim off about half of the center part of the silicone ear tip. I did this by flipping it inside out, then used the exacto knife to trim off the rubber.

GGTS_led3.jpg



Here you can see the brass post from the 510 atty I removed to use as the contact between the battery and the atty connector of the GGTS.

GGTS_led4.jpg



And this is how it looks fitted inside the trimmed silicon ear tip. A perfect fit!

GGTS_led5.jpg



Next thing to do was to solder some wire to the contact.

GGTS_led6.jpg



Then I fed the wire through the top of the tip and pushed the contact into the rubber post until it was flush fit.

GGTS_led7.jpg



Here's how it looked fitted onto the battery, again a perfect fit!

GGTS_led8.jpg



Ok, so now I had to solder the resistor to the positive contact of the LED. Nice and sloppy (it's been a while since I soldered anything)....

GGTS_led9.jpg



Then I slid on some of the heatshrink tubing onto the wire before soldering the end onto the resistor.

GGTS_led10.jpg


GGTS_led11.jpg



And applied some heat from a lighter to shrink the tubing.

GGTS_led12.jpg



Ok, so at this point I have the battery cap finished and ready to go, as well as the LED. Now I had to figure out how to attach the ground from the LED to complete the circuit.

Everything was going great until this point. This is where I started to fart up a storm in my brain. At first I thought I could bend the little leg into a shape and wedge it into the spring.

GGTS_led13.jpg



But I quickly realized this was not the smartest idea since the spring is already making contact with the ground from the battery, and so as soon as the battery is put into the GGTS the LED would light. Not what I had in mind.

So... I tried wedging it into the brass end.

GGTS_led15.jpg



But that didn't work so well. So then I got some tiny magnets and tried wedging those in. It seemed to do the trick.... kinda....

GGTS_led16.jpg


GGTS_led17.jpg



It lit up ok, but the UV leds are pretty dim and the light wasn't evenly distributed at the bottom through the holes. A disappointing end result.

So I played around with a glow in the dark button clicky from a flashlight by trimming off the rim to get a ring of glow in the dark rubber. I cut a slit and fit it around the pole in the brass end. Then I wedged the negative wire from the LED in with another piece of rubber.

This is the end result:

GGTS_led18.jpg



Kinda disappointing... and 3 hours later I'm not all that happy with it. But hey, I'm not giving up just yet... I'll see what else I can come up with. I'd like a much brighter output, and I don't want glow in the dark green color either.. I want light shining through all of the holes somehow.

Any creative input is more than welcome! :)

exellent job my friend Nature!!. Very good looking blue light there!! I am impressed:thumbs::thumbs:
 

NatureBoy

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^^haha, none taken.... funny pic

purple is what i was going for, and is what is in there.. which is why the glow in the dark rubber is glowing green, because of the UV led... but i agree purple would look much better.

i'm gonna try to come up with something better. i need some sort of material i can use that will illuminate from the UV led, so that light can shine through all of the holes. or i can try using more leds, but that will drain the battery faster. not a big deal if it does i suppose.

i know some people dont like leds... but i've always loved 'em. even as a kid i used to make little projects with lights.

..... aaaaaaand on that note, time for bed. g'nite ya'll. :)
 
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vapn

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Eat at Joes!!.... ahhaha.... but anyway... good idea natureboy. I have seen some pretty bright color changing LEDs that would work pretty good for this application. I saw them at Madvapes. Not sure if you need the resistor for them either. I first started reading your post and was saying noooo not a soldering iron and GG... not in the same room, never... but then the final result was pretty cool. Wish it had been brighter for ya!
 

imeothanasis

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Eat at Joes!!.... ahhaha.... but anyway... good idea natureboy. I have seen some pretty bright color changing LEDs that would work pretty good for this application. I saw them at Madvapes. Not sure if you need the resistor for them either. I first started reading your post and was saying noooo not a soldering iron and GG... not in the same room, never... but then the final result was pretty cool. Wish it had been brighter for ya!

We can make a small trick to avoid soldering. We can buy a led and a small round battery like Nature did. We will stick the legs of the led on the battery with small magnets or tape so led will open. We can easily charge the battery because we will take off the magnets or the tape from the small battery. Advantage is that we dont take power from the GG battery. Of course led will be always open but we can connect it with the button so it will open only when we push it.

But we have to ground the battery in a case. If this case touch the button too then we have done it. Its a quick thought but we can improve it. I dont have much time now for this but any thoughts would be nice:)

ps.... we can also put 3 leds on the front holes with their small bases so they will not move and they will be visible too
 
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imeothanasis

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As long as it doesn't interfere at all with battery venting, then I am definitely interested.

I will make bigger side holes on cap dear, no problem. But explotion is so big that led will disapear so gases will vent either. Of course its dangerous because leds and their pieces will go to the eyes of the man that sits across. We have the fuse of course so not a big issue but its still dangerous even if the possibility is 1 in a million
 

mre5674

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I will make bigger side holes on cap dear, no problem. But explotion is so big that led will disapear so gases will vent either. Of course its dangerous because leds and their pieces will go to the eyes of the man that sits across. We have the fuse of course so not a big issue but its still dangerous even if the possibility is 1 in a million


"America..F--K Yeah!" Built by peaceful man in Greece = LOL
 

imeothanasis

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just check into getting small pieces of tritium and sticking them in there somehow..will glow for 10 years in about half a dozen different colors with no wiring or batteries..

Here's someplace to get the tritium from:
B@rt's Tritium Thread - CPFMarketPlace

very nice post Drodz. I didnt knew about this but I just read on a site that its a health risk if they crashed. Its a radioactive material.

GG falls many times on floor so its very dangerous to use this thing on the GG
 

Drozd

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very nice post Drodz. I didnt knew about this but I just read on a site that its a health risk if they crashed. Its a radioactive material.

GG falls many times on floor so its very dangerous to use this thing on the GG

they're glass vials coated in phosphorus and filled with radioactive gas...and then usually encased in another casing so there's usually no real threat to the inner vial...that's the case with those stainless steel cased dots..and the amount of gas is so minimal that you'd essentually have to be inhaling it as the inner glas vial is broken to be any threat...additionally the larger vials are really the only ones that would pose a risk..the small dots shouldnt be an issue..

These are the same thing that they do guy sights and illuminated archery sights out of.. the flashlight fanatics use them on their lights too...I think those are more of a drop hazard then a PV...so I really think that's a non issue...

However yes they are radioactive and I think 3 of them within 2 feet of each other are sufficient to set of the radioactive "sniffers" in airports...

the small dots might be cool to mount one on the end of a button though..or one of the smaller brighter dots on the inside....

I think theres a guy on here that actually used these in a SB..
 

NatureBoy

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Yeah, I've seen a lot of Tritium mods... they look cool, however in order to get a brighter effect you need to use the larger ones, and honestly the thought of having something radioactive around me or my cat is a little off-putting to say the least. :)

The little dots are kinda neat for small items that you'd like to be able to find in the dark, but they're not quite comparable to the light produced by LEDs.

I'm still going to try to work something out so I can get a nice effect from the purple/UV leds since they're my favourite colour.
 

Drozd

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Yeah, I've seen a lot of Tritium mods... they look cool, however in order to get a brighter effect you need to use the larger ones, and honestly the thought of having something radioactive around me or my cat is a little off-putting to say the least. :)

The little dots are kinda neat for small items that you'd like to be able to find in the dark, but they're not quite comparable to the light produced by LEDs.

I'm still going to try to work something out so I can get a nice effect from the purple/UV leds since they're my favourite colour.
That's totally understandable and I can see how it may be off-putting to some...just throwing that out as an idea...

I totally agree on the purple/UV LED concept...
What would be amusing is (since they make about 5 different purple/UV LEDs) is to get ones in the wavelength that you can use it double duty as a sanitizer....to sanitize your carts or tips as you vape
Lol..that's right.. though they're rediculously expensive you can get UV LEDs far enough into the wavelength/color spectrum that the light works as a bactricide/germicide... (they ue them in toothbrush UV sanitizers and high end vacumes now)...
 

Drozd

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Ah yeah I've seen those! They emit a very cool colour light too.... hmmm, just how expensive is ridiculously expensive? :)
lol...the really good ones?....like $400 per LED expensive...but then again thats the so UV they're near invisible and will burn skin if exposed to them for too long and blind people...not the safest at all but very UV..

figure it this way the wavelength is expressed in nm the purple to violet threshold is around 400 -405nm higer and it goes quickly to purple (420nm) to pink (440nm) to blue (470nm ish) ...that's why is so hard to get a good purple very narow margin on the wavelength..

when you drop lower than 400nm wavelength it starts getting interesting.. you get some sterilization effects at around 385nm (and can pick up foot long strips of that for about $15 with 2 led per inch here: Elemental LED - Flexible LED Strip Light - Ultra Violet but you'd have to work on getting the led's out of the strip...I'd buy a cheap LED toothbrush sterilizer though and rip out the LEDs)

then it gets real interesting lower nm and it becomes less visible but higher UV and better UV properties like maximum germicidal effectiveness and is highly lethal to virus, bacteria, protozoa and mold at around 254nm wavelength..
and down around 200-185nm it'll take the oxygen in the air and produce ozone in addition to causing sunburn like symptoms etc..
 
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