My (bad) pictorial of Evod rewicking (cotton) and recoiling

[TomCatt]

Sorry for the out-of-focus pics


Rewicking With Cotton

Using cotton (balls or Rolled Cotton) to rewick Kanger bcc's (Evod in pictures):




Disassembled Evod and cotton wick (pull and twist to form a wick from the cotton) - old cotton wick near the Evod base

More wick made from the same 'puff' of cotton

Dry burn of the empty coil to get rid of any gunk

Wick threaded through the coil

Wick clipped to size

Base reassembled with a small flavor wick added to the top of the coil (I add this wick because w/o it I get a lot of juice sputtering)

====================================================


Recoiling the Evod


Evod head disassembled

Round toothpick and 32g Kanthal A-1 wire

Coil wrapped around the toothpick (5 wraps is usually ~2.5 ohms), notice the extra long coil "legs"

Bend the end of a coil leg back on itself up to the toothpick and twist together like a bread-bag twist-tie. This increases the resistance of the coil leg and keeps the leg from getting hot and burning the insulator:

Repeat with the other coil leg, clip off any wire end that is left over next to the coil as this may contact the coil body when installed and create a short

Insert coil legs into the coil body

Insert the insulator onto only ONE of the coil legs, bend the other coil leg over the edge of the coil body

Insert the insulator into the coil body

Insert the positive post into the insulator. Don't let the coil leg running through the insulator get pushed through. This is why I like using the round toothpick, it fits in the Evod slot nicely and lets you put tension on the coil legs to keep your coil in place.

You can either clip the ends of the coil legs off with scissors (be sure to clip them as close as possible) or bend them back and forth repeatedly to break them off - this seems to work better as there is less exposed wire with this method.

Screw the coil body back into the Evod base and carefully remove the toothpick, check the resistance and you're ready to rewick.

 

[daventura]

Hmm...twisting the ends to keep from burning the insulator.

I learn something new every day here.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[Bawn]

great little trick. going to try this on my protank.

 

[b34tn1k]

I'm gonna have to give this a shot

 

[Bawn]

What a difference! Burnt taste gone! Wicks like a maniac! Thank you so much

 

[HughDaHand]

Nice writeup, this is almost exactly how I build my eVod heads. One tip I would like to add is when you have the coil wraped around the toothpick, You can compress the coil like a spring for a few seconds to make a nicer looking coil. That is if you always end up with a slopping looking unevenly spaced coil like me.

I don't compress my cotton, well I do at one end to start it through the coil but that gets cut off. I use a cotton ball and just pull off a strip about the same diameter as the coil, twist one end to make it easier to start through the coil. I also don't bother twisting the legs of the coil as everywhere it touches the grommet it also makes contact with the center pin and wall of the head. This acts as no resistance wire so no power goes through the coil inside the grommet.

I was thinking about making a writeup like this with this method. Yours came out way better than mine ever would.

 

[camaro73]

Nice job TomCatt! Thanks for showing us.

 

[CWayne121]

Just bought some evod clones from fasttech and did 5 rebuilds with micro coils - 30g wrapped 9 times around a 1/16th drill bit with coils touching - and cotton. Came out to 2 ohms perfectly, but the microcoil gives better heat and throat hit, and some same bigger clouds. Great, cheap, and easy rebuild. Not getting the clouds like I do with a sub ohm IGO-L but the flavor is out of this world. I'm picking up notes that I never tasted before in my favorite juices. Perfect "at work" build as my clouds draw too much foot traffic by my office. At home, it's fun to tease the dog with the IGO-L though

Question for OP or anyone else - the EVODs are poly-carb right? So no acidic juices should be put in? I have a stainless EVOD clone and even that one has a plastic tank. Almost positive it is poly-carb but just wanted to get a second opinion.

 

[b34tn1k]

Wayne, I wouldn't risk it. Well I haven't

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[TomCatt]

I haven't seen anything specific about the Evod; but from the looks, I've assumed that it is polycarb. The only other plastic I've seen come out of China is polypropylene and that has a frosted look to it.


ETA:
Kanger has a mini Protank out - haven't seen it at any US vendors yet; but would expect it soon

http://www.sz-kanger.com/collections/clearomizer/products/kanger-mini-protank-clearomizer

 

[Stoneface]

...ETA:
Kanger has a mini Protank out - haven't seen it at any US vendors yet; but would expect it soon...

The Minis Discount Vapers ordered will be shipped at the end of the month...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...scountvapers-com-thread-1381.html#post9858067

 

[typo_joe]

This is an awesome write up and I plan to give it a shot once I go get some cotton balls. I am looking to get a lower resistance (1-1.5 ohm) though. I only have 28g kanthal. Any suggestions on how many wraps would be needed to get a 1-1.5 ohm w/ 28g?

As for the eVods tank, I have used evods for a while as they perform well. One of the first evods I purchased was used for iVape's Frost Fire (hot tomales or red hots). I've never noticed a crack, but now the inner tank is frosted. The only problem I've run into with this is with lighter colored juices, its not as easy to see where the juice level is, but its still doable. Hope that helps.

 

[TomCatt]

Not sure how many wraps you'll need with the 28g; but the 28g has LESS RESISTANCE per inch than 32g.

BJ43 makes oval coils for his Vivi Novas by stacking two toothpicks and wrapping his coil around them; this increases the length of wire you can get into the narrow space of these style of atomizers.

 

[Hitmetwice]

This is an awesome write up and I plan to give it a shot once I go get some cotton balls. I am looking to get a lower resistance (1-1.5 ohm) though. I only have 28g kanthal. Any suggestions on how many wraps would be needed to get a 1-1.5 ohm w/ 28g?

As for the eVods tank, I have used evods for a while as they perform well. One of the first evods I purchased was used for iVape's Frost Fire (hot tomales or red hots). I've never noticed a crack, but now the inner tank is frosted. The only problem I've run into with this is with lighter colored juices, its not as easy to see where the juice level is, but its still doable. Hope that helps.

7-10 wraps should net you 0.9-1.2 ohms. At least thats what I was getting.
With 2mm ID.

 

[CaliGrower]

do be aware that the kanger protanks are not stainless as advertised. they are plated brass.....didnt know this or i wouldnt have bought any of them.

 

[Zooker]

Great tutorial tomcatt, thanks!

 

[CommaHolly]

Sorry for the out-of-focus pics


Rewicking With Cotton

Using cotton (balls or Rolled Cotton) to rewick Kanger bcc's (Evod in pictures):




Disassembled Evod and cotton wick (pull and twist to form a wick from the cotton) - old cotton wick near the Evod base

More wick made from the same 'puff' of cotton

Dry burn of the empty coil to get rid of any gunk

Wick threaded through the coil

Wick clipped to size

Base reassembled with a small flavor wick added to the top of the coil (I add this wick because w/o it I get a lot of juice sputtering)

====================================================


Recoiling the Evod


Evod head disassembled

Round toothpick and 32g Kanthal A-1 wire

Coil wrapped around the toothpick (5 wraps is usually ~2.5 ohms), notice the extra long coil "legs"

Bend the end of a coil leg back on itself up to the toothpick and twist together like a bread-bag twist-tie. This increases the resistance of the coil leg and keeps the leg from getting hot and burning the insulator:

Repeat with the other coil leg, clip off any wire end that is left over next to the coil as this may contact the coil body when installed and create a short

Insert coil legs into the coil body

Insert the insulator onto only ONE of the coil legs, bend the other coil leg over the edge of the coil body

Insert the insulator into the coil body

Insert the positive post into the insulator. Don't let the coil leg running through the insulator get pushed through. This is why I like using the round toothpick, it fits in the Evod slot nicely and lets you put tension on the coil legs to keep your coil in place.

You can either clip the ends of the coil legs off with scissors (be sure to clip them as close as possible) or bend them back and forth repeatedly to break them off - this seems to work better as there is less exposed wire with this method.

Screw the coil body back into the Evod base and carefully remove the toothpick, check the resistance and you're ready to rewick.

fantastic! you read my mind,,,,,,,I was going to ask where to get cotton wicking,,,,,,

if it really wicks better, I think I need it,,,,,I vape pretty constantly, and I've gotten a few dry hits,,,,,I think I'm outpacing the wicks,,,,,,,,maybe,,,,,,,,,,,LOL. It can't hurt to try the cotton.

 

[Bawn]

fantastic! you read my mind,,,,,,,I was going to ask where to get cotton wicking,,,,,,

if it really wicks better, I think I need it,,,,,I vape pretty constantly, and I've gotten a few dry hits,,,,,I think I'm outpacing the wicks,,,,,,,,maybe,,,,,,,,,,,LOL. It can't hurt to try the cotton.

it worked for me for abour 1 day then went back to wicking issues. tried chaning the wick again, and it wasnt having it. who knows. done with evod and protank.

 

[TomCatt]

You can't make the cotton wick too thick. It just needs to be big enough to easily slide into the coil. Cotton will expand when wet; so if it's too thick, when it expands, the coil can "choke" it, reducing its ability to wick.

 

[CommaHolly]

thanks for the tip!