My DIY - DSE901 - MAGNUM POWER

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Vegatron75

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That is the switch madog used in his video. I detest those little buggers. They are best used on a circuit board and are impossible to glue onto the inside of the flashlight, for me. I gave up on them in favor of the threaded micro switch for ease of installation and more the more robust solder connection points.

I do use the tactiles in my AA box mod and a PS pass-through I repaired last evening.

SPST 12VDC/50mA 5.0mm High Tact Switch - RadioShack.com These come in various button lengths up to 9mm.

The one I'm using is different than this one^^^^. it's got a hard plastic button that's tall enough to get out of the light body and be filled down so it's a couple of mm's above the case.
I too had problems gluing but since found a solution to that. The micro switch is too big and IMO looks too mechanical, ie nut, washer and big switch....

One my next one, I going a different direction w/ the LED. I'll post a pic when it's done!
As for the part number on the switch I use,,,I don't have it. I threw the package away. Just browse the switch drawer at RS>
 

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nicowolf

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The one I'm using is different than this one^^^^. it's got a hard plastic button that's tall enough to get out of the light body and be filled down so it's a couple of mm's above the case.
I too had problems gluing but since found a solution to that. The micro switch is too big and IMO looks too mechanical, ie nut, washer and big switch....

One my next one, I going a different direction w/ the LED. I'll post a pic when it's done!
As for the part number on the switch I use,,,I don't have it. I threw the package away. Just browse the switch drawer at RS>

That's the 9mm one. That is what I have been using lately. I also like the sub-mini pushbutton. It has the threaded panel mount body but the button is just like the 9mm tact switch - just a vertical cylinder shape, no mushroom top like the next size up.

Thanks for the idea of filing off the excess height on the tact switch, that will help tremendously.
 

Multisync98

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Apr 17, 2009
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If you want to reduce the voltage without wasting power, use a 'power diode' such as the IN4001. One will drop the voltage about 0.7v, 2 by about 1.4v. This is far superior to using a resistor and simpler than a voltage regulator.


Image515.png


ps: you can't use a LED for this; either the LED will blow out or the atomizer will not heat properly depending on the LED type. Power diodes are very cheap.
I got the Diode installed, and the led worked.. Do you know what type of LED I can use, because I REALLY want an LED in there to know it's working!

Thanks-

Jim
 
The latest versions of IN4001 have a forward drop of around 0.35v rather than 0.7v. So two in series will give a 0.7v drop. (Things have moved on in the last 20 years ;))

A standard LED can be connected in series with a 1k ohm (1000/1024 ohm) resistor across the power supply / atomizer. Some LEDs have the resistor built in, but if not sure, include it first of all. If the LED is too dim, try a 330 ohm resistor.
 
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Multisync98

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The latest versions of IN4001 have a forward drop of around 0.35v rather than 0.7v.

A standard led can be connected in series with a 1k ohm (1000/1024 ohm) resistor across te power supply / atomizer. Some LEDs have the resistor built in, but if not sure, include it first of all. If the LED is too dim, try a 330 ohm resistor.

So what do you suggest I use then to drop it down to the point of not frying my atomizer yet being able to vape on it constantly?

-Jim
 
Use more than one diode in series (one after another). So 3 in series would drop the voltage by just over 1v.

Battery power voltage can be a little higher than that from usb or mains adaptor because of internal resistance. A 6v battery pack might be ok whereas a direct 5V usb connection might fry.

To be completely safe, go down to about 4v.
 
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Multisync98

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Apr 17, 2009
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Use more than one diode in series (one after another). So 3 in series would drop the voltage by just over 1v.

Battery power voltage can be a little higher than that from usb or mains adaptor because of internal resistance. A 6v battery pack might be ok whereas a direct 5V usb connection might fry.

To be completely safe, go down to about 4v.

There is ABSOLUTELY no way to get 3 let alone 4 of those into less than a 1 inch space man... Let alone a switch and an LED... I don't get it??!! Oh yeah, did I mention I'm using 2 CR2 batteries for power?

-Jim
 

Vegatron75

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That's the 9mm one. That is what I have been using lately. I also like the sub-mini pushbutton. It has the threaded panel mount body but the button is just like the 9mm tact switch - just a vertical cylinder shape, no mushroom top like the next size up.

Thanks for the idea of filing off the excess height on the tact switch, that will help tremendously.

NO thanks needed, I should be thanking you. You guys have been at this way longer than me. I owe you, madog and the other mod pioneers a lot. I'm just a copy-cat w/ a few skills.
 
I'm looking to make more room in the led holder in this mod. I seem to short things out too much, so I want to try something to condense the components.

I am also trying to put a diode in place to reduce the voltage a bit.

Any electronics input would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, the picture is of the pcb that comes with the flashlights. Also, the breaks in the pcb would be made by scratching off the contacts.

Thanks,
Paul
pcb-600x554.jpg
http://www.andersonandbanks.com/files/pcb_soldered_-_Sheet1.pdf
 
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nicowolf

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Wow Panderson those are some mad drawing skills. The set up looks great. Have you tried a roomier flashlight body? I got one at Harbor Frieight that left me a little room to play with. It is slightly larger than the one Madog used but the build feels better to me and it is roomier. I will go dig up a link for you. I promised one to Jim in another thread, so I will just bite the bullet and go find it and post here for both of you.
 

nicowolf

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This is what I think you guys bought.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

This is what I bought.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I caught it on sale. It gave me that extra half inch to play with. The top part actually screws off so you can assemble everything from the battery end. There is a retaining ring that holds everything in and makes the negative connection to the circuit board. I tried to use that flashlight that Madog used. It was just too small to fit everything in and I had to innovate ways to keep the batteries in their space with pressure and the wires in their own space without pressure. I succeeded with much effort, but didn't get it glued into place before my bad soldering started failing. That is when I found this flashlight. All is right with the world after that. I took apart a clicky switch from one of those other flashlights to get the plastic part to mount my atomizer connector. The diameter fit perfectly, I just had to make the hole bigger to accomodate the connector. I ended up having to use foam to take up some of the extra space so my PCB would stay in place with the battery pressing against it.
 
Looks good Nico. I like that it has no funnel shape and the extra width gives a solid appearance. I have one of those somewhere that I picked up in china, they are well made, nice casing. Switch on/off fitted into the end if i remember correctly, behind some rubber; something like that.

When I say I've got one - i mean i have the bits in a box somewhere ...
 

Multisync98

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Apr 17, 2009
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Jim, r u lurking? What do you think? It might leave you room for two CR123As
Sorry, so many PM's coming in.. Anyway, what I was going to say was, I bought 2 4" flashlights from home depot for 5 bucks. They has a VERY sleek design to them and the top along with the bottom come off. So, I'm thinking of switching to the CR123a's. I don't know. I have to see what the wallet allows. :)

-Jim

The thing I'm really worried about is boosting voltage and mA. I have a feeling I'll be burning through attys faster.
 

nicowolf

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Sorry, so many PM's coming in.. Anyway, what I was going to say was, I bought 2 4" flashlights from home depot for 5 bucks. They has a VERY sleek design to them and the top along with the bottom come off. So, I'm thinking of switching to the CR123a's. I don't know. I have to see what the wallet allows. :)

-Jim

The thing I'm really worried about is boosting voltage and mA. I have a feeling I'll be burning through attys faster.


I feel ya on the wallet thing. My checkbook hides when it sees me coming.

Honestly, the 901 does quite nicely on 3 to 5 volts. At 5 volts I have noticed the burnt taste - my USB passthrough is now part of my FDA doomsday backup plan, for when I am desparate enough that the burnt taste might be acceptable. The 4.2 volts of a freshly charged battery seems to be ideal and the 3 volts is about where I decide it is time for a new battery because the throat hit just isn't there anymore. The penstyle I think needs more than what the factory gave it in terms of voltage. The 901 was about spot on, if only they could've given it mAh and a reliable switch.
 

Multisync98

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Apr 17, 2009
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I feel ya on the wallet thing. My checkbook hides when it sees me coming.

Honestly, the 901 does quite nicely on 3 to 5 volts. At 5 volts I have noticed the burnt taste - my USB passthrough is now part of my FDA doomsday backup plan, for when I am desparate enough that the burnt taste might be acceptable. The 4.2 volts of a freshly charged battery seems to be ideal and the 3 volts is about where I decide it is time for a new battery because the throat hit just isn't there anymore. The penstyle I think needs more than what the factory gave it in terms of voltage. The 901 was about spot on, if only they could've given it mAh and a reliable switch.

I know, but I'll be using these new batteries in a Magnum mod... I really don't want to kill atomizer after atomizer. I have to find a way to drop the voltage and still get a 3-5 foot cone of vapor!

-Jim
 
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