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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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My first coil
- Thread starter Starik
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3/4 wrap @ 1.3Ω it almost has to be 30g, it most definitely cannot be 28g.
Click on the number "2" next to "Blog Entries" under my avatar picture. If you are able to digest the 2 part instructional, you won't need to bend your wick over, and being new to RBAs it may have some tips that you haven't considered.
Click on the number "2" next to "Blog Entries" under my avatar picture. If you are able to digest the 2 part instructional, you won't need to bend your wick over, and being new to RBAs it may have some tips that you haven't considered.
It's 1.3 ohms and doesn't glow red anywhere when I fire it at 3.2 V
How does it look? Be honest
Well, I'm jealous. At this point, looks don't matter that much to me, as long as I could just one to work properly. Nice job!
I had the same problem.Now I keep getting a metallic taste. When I drain the juice and dry burn, all the coils glow. But when the juice is in there I can't get rid of the top-coil-to-post connection hot spot. What am I doing wrong?
Dry burn picture:
When dry-burning, the whole coil was beautiful...just like when there was NO wick.
With juice, the top coil fired almost exclusively!
It was only by taking a picture that I could see the up-close truth of it that my naked eye didn't see...
My wick was too slender and not making proper contact with ALL the coils.
i would try to nudge the bottom of the wrap to get the middle or bottom wind to glow just as bright if not brighter, if it is uneven dry it will be worse when wet as the wick is more wet near the bottom of the coil
If you are getting a metallic taste then you are having wicking issues, your coil looks great. How is your wick rolled i.e. starting mesh size, solid or straw? Temporary fix is leave the fill screw out and do the genny tilt.Now I keep getting a metallic taste. When I drain the juice and dry burn, all the coils glow. But when the juice is in there I can't get rid of the top-coil-to-post connection hot spot. What am I doing wrong?
Dry burn picture:
It's a solid 400 mesh wick. Is it possible for a wick to be rolled too tightly?
A metallic taste in a genesis indicates that you have a short somewhere. Grab a toothpick and nudge the coils around until they don't glow red at all when the wick is saturated.
Also, no, not really. Infact these days, most people prefer a very solid wick, made of as much mesh as they can possibly cram in the wick hole so you're ok on that front. Try adjusting the coils with a toothpick, it should fix the short. As much as you may hate to hear this, if it ends up that no matter how much you adjust it, you can't get rid of the short, your best bet is to take it apart and wrap another coil. A properly setup genesis should have a nice, smooth throat hit with absolute clouds of vapor. It shouldn't be harsh at all and definitely not metallic tasting.
Also, no, not really. Infact these days, most people prefer a very solid wick, made of as much mesh as they can possibly cram in the wick hole so you're ok on that front. Try adjusting the coils with a toothpick, it should fix the short. As much as you may hate to hear this, if it ends up that no matter how much you adjust it, you can't get rid of the short, your best bet is to take it apart and wrap another coil. A properly setup genesis should have a nice, smooth throat hit with absolute clouds of vapor. It shouldn't be harsh at all and definitely not metallic tasting.
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I've been meaning to ask this for days. How can you ever get that top part of the coil to stop glowing? The part that isn't touching the wick. It isn't being cooled by juice.
Looks like a AGA and they work real well with the wick bent towards the center post. Out of all the high end rba's the low cost AGA T2 is working the best. Looks like good work!!! Once you have tasted a good working rba there's no going back.:thumbup:
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
No/Yes lol. As much mesh as you can roll in a tight wick and not be so big that it bites into the wick hole.
More mesh per wick = more tiny sites available for capillary action = better wicking. Some of mine wick so well that it causes some of the juice to boil and spit instead of vaporize and I have to increase the wattage to compensate for it. (More heat to vaporize and keep up with the increased wicking).
I counter that with, "there's no such thing as a lost cause coil". But it is true, if you don't have the experience yet to know what to do with a bad coil, it is sometimes better to start over. I hate giving this advice as it is too easy to think it is time to start over when you just aren't moving the coil wraps right or enough. Forget the poke and prod, move those coils up and down the wick while pulsing, they will oxidize and all of a sudden the hot spot will disappear and all will glow.
They all glow during the dry burn. My problem is when the juice is in the tank, the top of the wire that connects the wick to the positive post glows red.
Few things I do when there is a top lead hot spot:
I saw you mentioned you lean the coil/wick towards the center post, this generally helps. Can also be accomplished with washers or larger nuts.
Make sure the outer edge of the mesh has been folded over to hide any loose strands of SS mesh.
Then be sure to keep this fold out of contact with that top coil entirely.
You can also wrap the top lead around the positive post, then back onto itself. This will reduce the resistance of the wire in that area, preventing it from ever heating up.
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