my humble start
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so need your guys input...how does this look?
got my battery setup and monuted with the help of mikepetro thanks dude. went with a 6000mah lipo removed from case not shorted and soldered wires in. surprisingly it was not too bad. anyway wired in my fuse and double stick taped it. the board and all still fits including my charge board. mocked it all up with the trashed board. yay found more uses for it. then tested everything awesome 3.7. only question is...how much will it be fully charged? my 18650 are 4.1 or 4.2 but what does this get to when fully charged? is it a lipo thing or what. also tested the 510 all connections are good nothing shorting out. whew so close to done cant wait so now for pics. and your guys opinions
got my battery setup and monuted with the help of mikepetro thanks dude. went with a 6000mah lipo removed from case not shorted and soldered wires in. surprisingly it was not too bad. anyway wired in my fuse and double stick taped it. the board and all still fits including my charge board. mocked it all up with the trashed board. yay found more uses for it. then tested everything awesome 3.7. only question is...how much will it be fully charged? my 18650 are 4.1 or 4.2 but what does this get to when fully charged? is it a lipo thing or what. also tested the 510 all connections are good nothing shorting out. whew so close to done cant wait so now for pics. and your guys opinions
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Heres the led charge board test its orange because nothing is hooked up but i like it. used some fiber optic line to help it out Shines the same in the light but my camera doesnt pick it up very good
Holy sh** it fnally works...new board mocked up. Now to finish the build.
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So I ran out of regular epoxy does any one know if I can use the arctic or should I just buy more
Where do you use the arctic silver epoxy at? Can anyone give me their ideas on mounting the screen and board. Do I take the red tab off the screen?
Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity. Even though Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy is specifically engineered for high electrical resistance, it should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. The cured epoxy is slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridged two close-proximity electrical paths.
** Bond strength is weakened at temperatures below 0°C due to crystallization.
** Bond strength is weakened at temperatures below 0°C due to crystallization.
well I bought some regular epoxy wired everything up tried it out and loved it. As I was about to put on the back cover for some reason the ribbon cable separated from the screen. Wow I just put it down I went right to bed it was probably around midnight so at that point I was done. I emailed brandon but have not gotten a response yet at this point I'm ready to call it and just be done with it. I'm so close to finishing but everytime I get close I have some kind of hiccups. After a bad board then this I'm at the point where I'd trade it in for provari if I could. anyone want an almost done box mod lol.
hum....ribbon cables just don't break for no reason...lol...... there have been numerous posts over the years about being careful with the display and ribbon cable...heck I posted the following on another thread just today:
Just a few hints:
Bending the ribbon cable too sharply can break the runs inside the cable. Gentle sweeping bends should not include sharp, short bends which tend to damage the ribbon. Bends close to the display can also break the ribbon cable off where it connects to the display.
I also have glued the display to the back of the board and others have used thin double sided tape.
A dab of super glue under the ribbon cable at the board works great to help protect the ribbon solder points from breaking. The ribbon and display should be treated always as fragile and easily destroyed.
Soldering to the pads to keep from bends in the wire is OK and many modders do it that way. Good idea to fill the hole in the pad with solder before soldering the wire to the pad. Also "tinning the wire" is helpful. Also using flux on all pads before soldering makes it easier.
On the wire, 20 gauge stranded is better as opposed to non-stranded and copper wire is better also. Tinning the wires ahead of soldering will also make soldering with less heat thus melting of the insulation will be much less.
Most modders that build a DNA mod have damaged a ribbon cable/display. Note that very slight pressure applied to the display will crack the glass of the display and the display will die where it will no longer display anything. So the ribbon and display should always be treated very, very gently throughout the mod building process. The DNA will still function with a dead display but you loose the ability to see the settings.
Good luck....
Modding is a learning experience.....try not to become too frustrated....
Just a few hints:
Bending the ribbon cable too sharply can break the runs inside the cable. Gentle sweeping bends should not include sharp, short bends which tend to damage the ribbon. Bends close to the display can also break the ribbon cable off where it connects to the display.
I also have glued the display to the back of the board and others have used thin double sided tape.
A dab of super glue under the ribbon cable at the board works great to help protect the ribbon solder points from breaking. The ribbon and display should be treated always as fragile and easily destroyed.
Soldering to the pads to keep from bends in the wire is OK and many modders do it that way. Good idea to fill the hole in the pad with solder before soldering the wire to the pad. Also "tinning the wire" is helpful. Also using flux on all pads before soldering makes it easier.
On the wire, 20 gauge stranded is better as opposed to non-stranded and copper wire is better also. Tinning the wires ahead of soldering will also make soldering with less heat thus melting of the insulation will be much less.
Most modders that build a DNA mod have damaged a ribbon cable/display. Note that very slight pressure applied to the display will crack the glass of the display and the display will die where it will no longer display anything. So the ribbon and display should always be treated very, very gently throughout the mod building process. The DNA will still function with a dead display but you loose the ability to see the settings.
Good luck....
Modding is a learning experience.....try not to become too frustrated....
I know everything functions great still and That's the thing though I wasn't rough with it and it didn't break. It separated from the screen. Like it was glued or something I'm not even sure. It was double sided taped to the board so no real pressure. Was super gentle with it. See what Brandon says worst case I won't have a screen I guess. That privari is looking nice though haha. So much time in school though about just buying one I have my vamo but ready to make it a back up quick
I'm sure Brandon will take care of you....just read today where another modder had to have the display and ribbon re-attached by Brandon...He said it only cost 10 bucks....
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