My little experiement ... PLS help me ... the people with the old style GGTS pls look

[Rippspeed]

Ok heres alittle history ... I was always wondering why my AFS v2 on my #53 would vape soo much better than my newer GGTS with the AVS ... And then today it dawned on me; that the center post on the older style caps ( wether its the old style brass cap or the aluminum cap ) was brass versus the newer GGTS collection tank center post was made of aluminum ...

I am fortunate enough to own a few GGTS and older style caps... So I switched the 2 newer GGTS colection tank center post with the brass ones and now they vape just like the AFS v2 on my #53...

Heres what I'm asking you guys to confirm for me ... Please try it out and switch the center post with the brass center post from an older style GGTS and see if I'm correct on it vaping better ...

What I mean by vaping better is soo much more vapor...


PICS POSTED:


IMAG0191 by rippspeed1, on Flickr


IMAG0183 by rippspeed1, on Flickr

 

[harpo]

Ok heres alittle history ... I was always wondering why my AFS v2 on my #53 would vape soo much better than my newer GGTS with the AVS ... And then today it dawned on me; that the center post on the older style caps ( wether its the old style brass cap or the aluminum cap ) was brass versus the newer GGTS collection tank center post was made of aluminum ...

I am fortunate enough to own a few GGTS and older style caps... So I switched the 2 newer GGTS colection tank center post with the brass ones and now they vape just like the AFS v2 on my #53...

Heres what I'm asking you guys to confirm for me ... Please try it out and switch the center post with the brass center post from an older style GGTS and see if I'm correct on it vaping better ...

What I mean by vaping better is soo much more vapor...


p.s. I'll post pics up here in a few minutes... soo you can see what I mean ...

My guess would be less voltage loss threw the brass center pin.

 

[Rippspeed]

pics posted...

 

[Rippspeed]

Someone pm'ed me and asked about testing the voltage... Can some with alot more knowledge on testing for resistence do this for me ??? I dont have the knowledge to do this testing ... Thank you in advance

 

[HoPeFuLLL]

5.194V on a 5V 2.5A PT for both. No load.

I have experienced what you describe though while switching between units. But could this be just one is cleaned better? Even now it tastes different but could that be because cleaner or maybe from laying it down to connect everything...

 

[Rippspeed]

I have experienced what you describe though while switching between units. But could this be just one is cleaned better? Even now it tastes different but could that be because cleaner or maybe from laying it down to connect everything...

thats not the case for me because the first one I tried with the experiement was on my #888 which I just recieved from VaporKings about 3days ago... And I religiously clean and noloax my threads after every cleaning... And it was on a used battery, and it vaped soo much better with the brass center post.

 

[HoPeFuLLL]

Well voltage with no load is the same. Maybe brass just contacts better being softer.

 

[Rippspeed]

can someone check what it is under load ???

has to be more than just making contact better

 

[HoPeFuLLL]

cappy..where art though...

 

[Tyke]

Well voltage with no load is the same. Maybe brass just contacts better being softer.

Voltage with no load would be the same if you used 24 carat gold or soggy rice pudding as the contacts, unloaded you're just measuring the source voltage... This has been pointed out before...
Making a test load is simple enough.

While conductivity tables show that Aluminium is a better conductor than Brass, in practice it's inferior for contacts.

The surface layer oxidises within seconds of exposure to atmospheric oxygen and Aluminium Oxide is a very poor conductor compared to Brass even when it's only a molecule or two thick. This is why in industrial uses the contact areas of Aluminium conductors are prepared in airless environments and sealed to prevent oxygen ingress.

I'm not surprised by your test results Rip.

 

[cappy]

Cleaned sanded all contact areas under load was the same voltage.

 

[Rippspeed]

if thats the case cappy... Then maybe Tyke hit the nail on the head... I did see your post on youtube about the copper nail... I'll try to check the welding section of home depot for one... Did you cut it down or are do they come longer???

 

[arry]

I made a battery end post from pure copper after seeing Cappy's copper alloy mig tip post and it did seem to work better , i am away at the moment but i have started to make both a copper top battery post and a copper switch post ...
As copper should be one of the best conductors there is .

A

 

[imeothanasis]

They will be for sale Arry?

 

[Tyke]

I made a battery end post from pure copper after seeing Cappy's copper alloy mig tip post and it did seem to work better , i am away at the moment but i have started to make both a copper top battery post and a copper switch post ...
As copper should be one of the best conductors there is .

A

Copper is a really good conductor, but don't you think it will be a bit soft for the switch post and floating battery/atomiser pin?
The main reason people use brass for this sort of job is it's basically structurally strong copper as it's a copper alloy. Obviously if you want a really conductive brass then just select a high copper alloy and you get the best of both worlds.

 

[buGG]

and zinc, the other big element in brass outside of copper, further helps resist oxidation and corrosion.

 

[Tyke]

True, but comparatively speaking the zinc is a lousy conductor hence selecting a high %age copper alloy to get the structural strength without sacrificing an excessive amount of the electrical properties.

White gold would work if you picked the right alloy, but it might be a tad too expensive for general use

 

[imeothanasis]

The total resistance of a circuit is the same as its weakest point. So if we make a silver GG but a titanium pin, the GG will act like it was all of it made from titanium that is not a good contuctor.

Tyke is right, copper is very soft material and its not good for our job. But even if it was then the whole GG had to be from copper to have an advantage. If we only make the contacts from copper we dont earn anything, we just lose the hardness of brass.

The best way to avoid tarnish and to have a good contact is to nickel-plated all the parts of GG that are made from brass.

Usually contacts on expensive products are made from white gold or other elements to avoid tarnish and to stop the bad activity that current has on touches. But we use an eraser, or we polish or we sand our touches and we are ok. No need for expensive materials. If the touches of the older cars or other expensive products like loudspeakers were easy to get cleaned like the GG then those products wouldnt have expensive white gold touches.

 

[Tyke]

Imeo, that's not entirely true I'm afraid, the resistance of a circuit is the sum of its parts in series so it's important to look at all of the parts and unwise to discuss really bad conductors like titanium.

There's a list of electrical conductivity by materials here - Periodic Table of Elements: Sorted by Electrical Conductivity (EnvironmentalChemistry.com) - but it doesn't discuss the oxides, for instance Aluminium is the fourth most conductive, but Aluminium Oxide is a really lousy conductor and Aluminium oxidises at even quite low temperatures with atmospheric oxygen almost instantly.

For practical uses; at the voltages and currents we use in vaping equipment; 0.5 -1 ohm can be reasonably significant.
To achieve the best performance we need to have the best conductors practical for the individual part and a better conductor material or shorter current path (resistance has a distance component which is why conductors have their resistance per meter listed which can also be affected by the thickness of the material) or ideally both can make a difference.
There's also a resistance ratio to consider between the load (atomiser) and the conductor (PV body, switch, contacts etc), if that's too skewed towards the conductor then performance will be poor as the load won't get enough current to get suitably hot enough to work.
In effect a single lower resistance part can make a noticable change to the performance especially since as vapers we experience things through one of our more sensitive senses namely taste. Most people can tell the difference between a 2.2 and 2.7 ohm atomiser, I certainly could tell the difference when I swapped the spring in my Silver Bullet for a copper "Hot Spring" with the same battery and atomiser connected. The standard steel spring is 0.9 ohms and the copper one 0.7.
That's also why when you recommend cleaning the contacts and threads on a GGTS it can change the performance from a bit crappy to really good, the oxide removed was probably adding under an ohm of resistance unless it was really filthy.

Sorry for the wall of text, but there is an awful lot of misunderstanding when it comes to the subjects of electrical theory, materials science and practical engineering.

 

[Rippspeed]

Imeo, that's not entirely true I'm afraid, the resistance of a circuit is the sum of its parts in series so it's important to look at all of the parts and unwise to discuss really bad conductors like titanium.

There's a list of electrical conductivity by materials here - Periodic Table of Elements: Sorted by Electrical Conductivity (EnvironmentalChemistry.com) - but it doesn't discuss the oxides, for instance Aluminium is the fourth most conductive, but Aluminium Oxide is a really lousy conductor and Aluminium oxidises at even quite low temperatures with atmospheric oxygen almost instantly.

For practical uses; at the voltages and currents we use in vaping equipment; 0.5 -1 ohm can be reasonably significant.
To achieve the best performance we need to have the best conductors practical for the individual part and a better conductor material or shorter current path (resistance has a distance component which is why conductors have their resistance per meter listed which can also be affected by the thickness of the material) or ideally both can make a difference.
There's also a resistance ratio to consider between the load (atomiser) and the conductor (PV body, switch, contacts etc), if that's too skewed towards the conductor then performance will be poor as the load won't get enough current to get suitably hot enough to work.
In effect a single lower resistance part can make a noticable change to the performance especially since as vapers we experience things through one of our more sensitive senses namely taste. Most people can tell the difference between a 2.2 and 2.7 ohm atomiser, I certainly could tell the difference when I swapped the spring in my Silver Bullet for a copper "Hot Spring" with the same battery and atomiser connected. The standard steel spring is 0.9 ohms and the copper one 0.7.
That's also why when you recommend cleaning the contacts and threads on a GGTS it can change the performance from a bit crappy to really good, the oxide removed was probably adding under an ohm of resistance unless it was really filthy.

Sorry for the wall of text, but there is an awful lot of misunderstanding when it comes to the subjects of electrical theory, materials science and practical engineering.

Wow sensory over load... way above my pay grade... Tyke; so are you saying aluminum post is a better conductor than brass but since my #888 I just recieved it like 4 days ago ... Then everything is still cleaned and noloax'ed out; but just changing the post from aluminum to brass I get a major change in vapor production... Cappy also said there no change under load... Now, I'm totally lost... either way, I'll try the copper center post for giggles