My Tek-Lok Kydex holster for P+18350, Two Favorite things from Minnesota.

[atavanhalen]

So, I recently got a promotion per se, and now instead of driving around all the time for work, I am working inside standing up all the time. I was sick and tired of the crumbs and lint getting in my atty/drip tip,(from being in my pocket) so I decided to make a kydex holster that can attach to my belt, I put the chicago screws in a position for the holster to sit almost horizontal in order to keep stuff from falling in. It can also be mounted in other positions because of the tek lok belt clip. The tension is adjustable so I can make it as tight or as loose as I want. I know that the pistol has nothing to do with the precise but it was sitting on the table so I decided to throw it in the pic. I guess Minnesota has some pretty amazing engineers in the handgun industry and the e-cig industry. The XR9-S is made only a couple hours away from the precise and they are both the best that you can get in there respective industries. Obviously, that is my opinion and it doesnt have to be yours. Here are the pics......

 

[forcedfuel50]

Sweet, i love it! Nice gun too! I've been meaning to get to the range this year but haven't found the time yet!

 

[atavanhalen]

Thanks you sir! You should check out the guys site, he is just an engineer that wanted to make the most powerful 9mm pocket pistol He made prototype after prototype until he had the perfect design. bobergarmsdotcom He is in White Bear Lake.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

That's pretty damn slick, very nice job.

 

[atavanhalen]

Thanks Davis, it was tougher than I thought it would be but after a few tries I got it good enough.

 

[Sniperboy]

Fantastic design. I like how it is canted as opposed to vertical.
I do some work with Kydex too when I am bored - really a nice utilitarian artistic outlet.
Since the P+ is cylindrical, how do you prevent the mod from sliding through? Is it a friction fit (as evidenced from the relief slot?)

I haven't done a sheath for a P+ (That's David's fault cause he hasn't made any standard 16340s lately ^_-) but I am planning ahead.
Thanks for sharing your design openly.

 

[atavanhalen]

View attachment 103453 View attachment 103454
Fantastic design. I like how it is canted as opposed to vertical.
I do some work with Kydex too when I am bored - really a nice utilitarian artistic outlet.
Since the P+ is cylindrical, how do you prevent the mod from sliding through? Is it a friction fit (as evidenced from the relief slot?)

I haven't done a sheath for a P+ (That's David's fault cause he hasn't made any standard 16340s lately ^_-) but I am planning ahead.
Thanks for sharing your design openly.

Yeah I thought it would be much better to have it canted so if any dust or flour falls towards it, it wont fall in as easily, and I think it is a bit more functional for me personally. I almost made a bottom to the holster but on a first attempt I realized that if I just made the holster a bit smaller then I wouldnt need a bottom because it was so tight. I places rubber washers between the chicago screws so I could adjust the tension, so yes it is friction fit. I have not had it fall out once since I made it, also since it is not straight up and down, that helps in keeping it in place. I also noticed that if I would have left the holster a bbit longer, I could have put my bottle of juice in the other end which wouldve been pretty cool but maybe next time. Thanks for the compliments.

edit; forgot to say I like your holster as well, it looks pretty sweet.

 

[Sniperboy]

Flour? Are you a tactical chef? (I have a few friends who are ). You make good points, also the cant is easier to grab from the holster and also does not poke you (similar to knife handles) I had totally forgotten about this when designing. Canting makes so much more sense - I was deceived by the mod (small but not small enough with that attie) I was designing around.

Thanks again for sharing. I was trying to think of ways to help with your retention but the button on the end of the P+ does make it challenging. You have to melt and close off the bottom mouth just enough so it does not activate the button if one were to forget to lock it.

Good to know friction fit works out.. but I am always paranoid.
Please do share if you decide to make more designs.

 

[atavanhalen]

Yeah it definitely helps with the poking aspect. I think it could be done with a bottom on it as well but like you said it might take some skill to get it just right. The open bottom might not be for people who care a lot about marks on their mod, I can already see marks forming but I am looking more for functional rather than aesthetics. I am definitely gonna make more, next one will probably be my p +10 and I will update this thread when I do. I think I am gonna add a juice slot and 2 spare battery slot on the p10 holster since it is so small. It might look a bit ridiculous but like I said I am looking for functionality not aesthetics Hey do you have a link to a place that has reasonably priced foam that is good to use for kydex forming?

 

[Sniperboy]

Not just poking, but I find that when drawing objects from a sheath is is so much easier to draw them from a canted position.. especially when sitting or driving.

I am sure we can think of a way to have a reliable bottom retaining device. Perhaps somehow capture a smaller diameter O ring in there so you have a speedbump but have less chance of it firing an unlocked P+.
If you don't mind aesthetics just making the bottom diameter sliggghtttlyyy smaller with a heat gun may work as long as it does not hit the button.

Examining the P+ some more David machined the body a slightly smaller diameter at the center. This may be key if you make your sheath have a slimmer midsection. Since you have a 'slit' the sheath can flex like a clamshell.

Heck.. if we are daring enough I think a slick way to make a clean retaining device would be to somehow use the venting holes on the P+ to 'click' in place by somehow deforming the kydex to fit in the holes.. but realistically the holes are too small.

Alas, this almost makes the exercise a job instead of a hobby : )

As far as the cosmetics, I held off mentioning that as I know some people take it personally when someone says "Your item might get scratched if you rely on a friction fit." What I did for mine was mold it without a friction fit and built up the inside by lining it with masking tape. Some custom makers use moleskin or whatever to line sheaths but that was too much work for this application. Plus I'm not that good : )

As far as the foam, I don't typically use foam when molding cylindrical objects or flat objects that don't necessarily need a "pancake" form fit such as knife blades. Tubular sheaths, 'bikini' and loop (such as the one I did in the pic) I just do freehand. However since you have a pancake design I see the benefit. When I do use foam I use some scrap plastic foam I salvaged from old monitor and computer boxes I got from my old job.

The "pros" use these..
Sheath Making Foam - (12x11.5x1) - (KYDEX™/Concealex)

It does seem expensive but I haven't graduated to a level where I have started shopping for alternatives.

Finally, I guess great minds think alike.. I was also thinking of forming a second bolt on sheath that holds 3 ml bottles like a bandolier. Thanks for the good thread - it influences me to continue the hobby on my side too.

 

[atavanhalen]

Awesome I cant wait to see what you come up with. As far as the foam, I was just kinda assuming that it would make things easier but didnt really know either way because I kinda just jumped into this without much research. I never thought about the vent holes for retention, I think that is definitely beyond my skill but man would that be cool. I might add some masking tape to mine to see how that works, when the pros add moleskin how to they adhere it? I am glad that you mentioned the word bandolier because the pics I saw when I googled it will serve as some good inspiration. Let me know when and what you come up with and I will do the same, feel free to shoot me a pm if I do not respond in this thread, or if you just want to discuss ideas.