My thoughts on RM2 flooding and leaking...

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pesky_human

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I have been experimenting with different setups and have been getting various levels of flooding and leaking depending on what I do. Here are my thoughts on remedies for this issue.

1. I have drilled out my air holes to 1/16". Obviously, bigger hole = more air flow = more potential for leakage. This is a tradeoff. If you like a stiffer draw and less chance for leaks, keep the air hole stock. If you love straight lung hit clouds, drill it out and carry something to wipe with in the event of a leak.

2. Keep your wicks short. It may seem intuitive to allow the tails of your cotton wicks hang off the side of your coil and onto the deck. Don't. All they are going to do is stop the flow of juice back into the hole and bottle. I am pretty sure this is what causes 90% of the leaks that you may get on a Reomizer. Take off the drip tip, get your squonk on, and see if the deck drains. If it isn't draining properly, then your wick is probably the problem.

3. Get your coil situated just above the juice hole. Not touching the ceramic, but with just a small bit of space above the deck with a short wick. Higher coil means you are going to make a wick that's too long and thus run afoul of #2 above. The juice is going to hit the wick, trust me. Look at where the air hole is. That's where it leaks from. If the juice is coming out of there, and it is eventually whether you drill out or not, it is certainly going to hit your wick and coil when you squonk. If you need a stronger throat hit, get some heavier wire and build a lower resistance coil or some higher nic juice. I would much rather be vaping 16mg on a Reo that doesn't leak than 9mg on a Reo with a coil that is all up in the air and burning my throat and leaking everywhere.

4. Higher VG = less leaks. My 2 Reos are set up identically. The one that runs Pluid leaks a lot more than the one that runs Boba's.

Open air hole RBAs are going to eventually leak no matter how careful you are. That's the price we pay for getting epic vapage. I'm not a genius, nor an engineer, but if somebody could create an air hole valve that would allow air to flow in and prevent juice from flowing out, that person would make a buck or two before being knocked off by the cloners. Get on it. I will buy a few myself. ;)

:vapor:
 

Krazirob

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agreed on it all.....

but to mitigate the leakage of juice from the air hole what i do is vape until my wick is not really saturated then ill stick In pocket or throw in my backpack........i have my air hole at 7/64 and it doesn't leak because i do that.......so when you wet your wick vape it until its almost dry and you're good.....but make sure you don't burn your wick either.....LOL....takes some time to get it perfect.....
 

redeyedancer

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I have given this some thought it does bug me if I am not paying attention and juice comes out the hole . I will work on a fix if one of the sharper guys in the forum doesn't beat me to it . A off set air inlet would be great. With a chamber set above the coil leading leading to the coil . You could flood the atty and it would never leak. Of course doing it in a cost effective manner is the ?
 

Justice

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Maybe a simple ring like some have made to adjust airflow spin it around to close hole no leak maybe not perfect but close or put an angled tube into the air hole kind of like a simple back flow preventer only thing is people are so different with air holes you'd need multiple different tube sizes
 

turbocad6

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the immortalizer atty I'm playing with now is much like you describe rob, the airholes are higher up in the outer sleeve which creates it's own chamber but after the squonk it evacuates and can't leak the way a regular side hole would. the holes are higher up but the air is routed internally so it hits the coil from the bottom. hard to picture a way to do it on the rm2 without just adding a chimney stack, otherwise you'd need an inner and outer cap to create the chamber
 

redeyedancer

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the immortalizer atty I'm playing with now is much like you describe rob, the airholes are higher up in the outer sleeve which creates it's own chamber but after the squonk it evacuates and can't leak the way a regular side hole would. the holes are higher up but the air is routed internally so it hits the coil from the bottom. hard to picture a way to do it on the rm2 without just adding a chimney stack, otherwise you'd need an inner and outer cap to create the chamber
I was looking at that atomizer the ceramic base is what drew me to it I may grab a couple
 

redeyedancer

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Maybe a simple ring like some have made to adjust airflow spin it around to close hole no leak maybe not perfect but close or put an angled tube into the air hole kind of like a simple back flow preventer only thing is people are so different with air holes you'd need multiple different tube sizes
I gave this some thought as well even if there was a small area for the juice to go without dripping down the side of the atomizer would be great . I actually leave a o ring just under the hole on mine higher on the opposite side . As long as your not really flooding the atty the juice goes back into the atomizer when you draw on it
 

Justice

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The part of Canada that doesn't get enuf Snow :(
A simple ring with a notch taken out of it would serve as a air flow control and solve any leaking issues . I am pretty sure I could make one that actually looks decent

After you receive my wood for my special order Reo that is right ? :D
 
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pesky_human

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I have given this some thought it does bug me if I am not paying attention and juice comes out the hole . I will work on a fix if one of the sharper guys in the forum doesn't beat me to it . A off set air inlet would be great. With a chamber set above the coil leading leading to the coil . You could flood the atty and it would never leak. Of course doing it in a cost effective manner is the ?

Word.

The only thing I could think of was a tube the diameter of the hole that would go from the air hole in towards the coil. Any juice that ran up the wall of the atty cap would never make it out the hole and the tube would still allow the same amount of air get to the coil.

I can't figure out any way to attach the tube to the inside of the hole, though.
 

turbocad6

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what I'm finding with the immortalizer is the squonk is a lot like the reo, just a bit larger chambers to fill so it needs a slightly harder squonk. the deck inside gets saturated when the fluid is just below the outer air holes, so you can actually see that the squonk is complete when you see the air holes start to wet, but this requires looking which I don't like, and a little too much and it can just pump fluid out of the airholes

on the other hand the squonk does need to fill a bit more chamber, so a squonk that's too light may not wet the wick at all and burn so it's a little trickier to squonk as-is. to me the solution is probably going to be sealing off the 2 original holes that are only mid way up the outer sleeve and re drilling air holes closer to the top, this will allow a nice deep squonk sure to flood without wetting the air holes at all, really making no leaks ever, right now too hard of a squonk and it still can leak fluid from the air holes.


the design of this atty internally works similar to the way the reo drip well works with a cartomiser, excess fluid overflows into the well but is then sucked back out from the reverse squonk or from the draw sucking air in, this is similar but the well is in between the inner and outer walls. raising the air hole towards the top of the outer wall on this atty should make it perfect because then even a hard squonk will not eject fluid from the air holes. raising the air holes makes a deeper drip well
 
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