I've been I've been building for a while. But it seems every once in awhile that when I Wick and vape consistently or over and over I end up getting a burnt taste. I was wondering between the coils do I need to keep it thick or thin and of course I need to keep it loose. Also in the channels do they need to go all the way in and do the channels need to be completely full or very thinly spaced. I am using and eciggity Billow V2. If you have any advice it would greatly be appreciated.
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Needed to add that I have used the compressed sheet Japanese cotton and found that it was crap and have started to use plain old cotton balls from Walmart CVS whatever. Don't know if this could have anything to do with anything but don't want to change. the consistency of these overall versus the sheet Japanese in my experience isn't worth it.
Look at this.
I prefer organic cotton balls in the beauty section myself.
Good luck
Also cotton should be snug but still slide easily in the coil. Too much or too little can cause burning or leaking. Notice in the video how much he uses.
I prefer organic cotton balls in the beauty section myself.
Good luck
Also cotton should be snug but still slide easily in the coil. Too much or too little can cause burning or leaking. Notice in the video how much he uses.
I use a Billow v2 nano, and yeah, wicking is a bit tricky ... but what I do is the "pull test" ... after inserting the wick, try pulling it ... if it slides easily, you have too little wick ... if you pull and the coil (or even the mod itself) is getting pulled, you have too much.
As for the channels, I cut the cotton just as they dip into the channel ... no more.
As for the channels, I cut the cotton just as they dip into the channel ... no more.
Wow.. I've heard of the Billow, but never really paid much attention to it. When looking at it, it looks to be the perfect atomzier for me. I am a big fan of the Goblin and a former fan of the Fogger V4, which are very similar. The billow seems to be what Ive been looking for. A tank you can fill without a screwdriver, doesn't push juice into the channels when you fill, top phillips screws dual coil, slightly raised air intake, and adjustable airflow... I think the V2 (not the V3) will be my next purchase.
I can only give experience from the Goblin... it sounds like a wicking issue. For the goblin I do what Grim Green did for the goblin... I coil and put in the cotton but don't cut it.. insert chimney, then tuck cotton down where it touches the juice well... that's worked for the goblin. I can't say that is what you do for the billow, but it works for a similar goblin.
The end conclusion, is I think it's the wicking. I've been building for a few years, and I know that wicking is the part you can't just learn immediately from a video. It takes some experience and patience. too much cotton, or over wicking leads to dry hits, too little cotton or under wicking leads to a leaking tank. The videos are a godsend to give you an idea, but putting it into practice just takes time and trial and error.
I can only give experience from the Goblin... it sounds like a wicking issue. For the goblin I do what Grim Green did for the goblin... I coil and put in the cotton but don't cut it.. insert chimney, then tuck cotton down where it touches the juice well... that's worked for the goblin. I can't say that is what you do for the billow, but it works for a similar goblin.
The end conclusion, is I think it's the wicking. I've been building for a few years, and I know that wicking is the part you can't just learn immediately from a video. It takes some experience and patience. too much cotton, or over wicking leads to dry hits, too little cotton or under wicking leads to a leaking tank. The videos are a godsend to give you an idea, but putting it into practice just takes time and trial and error.
Fluff, don't stuff. you want just enough cotton to create a little drag when you feed it through the coil. It takes a little time and patience, but you eventually get a feel for what's right.
I have a V2 and a V3, and I've found that with just a little bit of cotton in the channels in the V2, it wicks the best. I cut the cotton so that the tips are a bit angled, and just long enough to barely reach into the wick channels. I then saturate the wick with e-liquid and gently form the cotton down into the channels before screwing the chamber base on.
I can't remember what coil size I finally ended up being really happy with but I want to say it's 2.5 mm?
I have a V2 and a V3, and I've found that with just a little bit of cotton in the channels in the V2, it wicks the best. I cut the cotton so that the tips are a bit angled, and just long enough to barely reach into the wick channels. I then saturate the wick with e-liquid and gently form the cotton down into the channels before screwing the chamber base on.
I can't remember what coil size I finally ended up being really happy with but I want to say it's 2.5 mm?
I'm a newb too so I may be asking a foolish question but I thought the reason for going with the specially sold cotton was that its fibers were generally all running in the same direction thus encouraging the capillary wicking action. In an ordinary cotton ball aren't the fibers in anything but a linear direction and wouldn't that impair its wicking abilities?
Could use rayon. (Graham CelluCotton Coil - 100% Rayon ). I used cotton a few times and was always changing wicks. Rayon tends to take higher temperatures better. Might want to try the search function in upper right hand corner of this post. Could type in "rayon wicks".
I'm a big fan of Rayon, also. I don't care what cotton products that I use, I always get that "new cotton" taste initially. I don't get that with Rayon. Plus, Rayon seems to last much longer than cotton.
Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2
Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2
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