Need charger recommendations

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Mooch

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  • May 13, 2015
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    Why do you need rubber feet to keep it from sliding around? Are you on a boat? I'm not being facetious, I'm serious.



    I tried a battery 5 times in each slot, here are my readings. I wiggled and changed the angle of the battery and the readings didn't change while it was in the slot.
    Bay 1
    3.66
    3.67
    3.67
    3.67
    3.68

    Bay 2
    3.66
    3.67
    3.66
    3.65
    3.66

    Bay 3
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68

    Bay 4
    3.67
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68

    Personally I don't think a few hundredths of a volt is going to make any difference as to over/under charging, nor do I think it will cause any damage to a battery. I also don't know if you can expect a $35 charger to be perfectly accurate to a hundredth of a volt. I'm no expert on batteries or chargers, maybe someone with more knowledge and expertise can tell me if I am wrong. @Mooch ?

    Not wrong. :)
     

    ShowerHead

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    Why do you need rubber feet to keep it from sliding around? Are you on a boat? I'm not being facetious, I'm serious.

    Because I don't like chasing a hard plastic object across the tabletop/desk when I touch it. Rubber feet stop it from sliding if you look at it.

    Personally I don't think a few hundredths of a volt is going to make any difference as to over/under charging, nor do I think it will cause any damage to a battery. I also don't know if you can expect a $35 charger to be perfectly accurate to a hundredth of a volt

    Well, the D4 I have doesn't show real different readings from battery to battery when they are from the same mod. Could be a .01 difference but that is within reason, .1 is not. Especially with readings that change at will it seems. It cost way less than US$35.

    It may be that all is well, however, it bothers my delicate sensibilities. I'll make you or someone a fine deal on a lightly used 4 bay charger. Rubber feet included, no cost! PM me.
     
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    niczgreat

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    Here's what I'm talking about. If nobody else has the same issue, then I need to get it RMAd shortly.
    View attachment 631123
    If I wiggle them a bit, I see this. Note that the first battery didn't change. This happens with any slots.

    View attachment 631125

    If I do indeed have to futz with the batteries and get them juuust right, it isn't the charger for me.
    Reasonable care, sure. More than that, eh.
    just curious, are these brand new batteries.?
    Oxidation on battery contact could cause this issue.
     

    David Wolf

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    Here's what I'm talking about. If nobody else has the same issue, then I need to get it RMAd shortly.
    View attachment 631123
    If I wiggle them a bit, I see this. Note that the first battery didn't change. This happens with any slots.

    View attachment 631125

    If I do indeed have to futz with the batteries and get them juuust right, it isn't the charger for me.
    Reasonable care, sure. More than that, eh.
    Excercise your slides, take a pencil eraser to both your batter and the charger terminals.
    I want your charger, lol. Likely will buy either that or an OPUS.
     
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    David Wolf

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    Hardly.


    Why do you need rubber feet to keep it from sliding around? Are you on a boat? I'm not being facetious, I'm serious.



    I tried a battery 5 times in each slot, here are my readings. I wiggled and changed the angle of the battery and the readings didn't change while it was in the slot.
    Bay 1
    3.66
    3.67
    3.67
    3.67
    3.68

    Bay 2
    3.66
    3.67
    3.66
    3.65
    3.66

    Bay 3
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68

    Bay 4
    3.67
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68
    3.68

    Personally I don't think a few hundredths of a volt is going to make any difference as to over/under charging, nor do I think it will cause any damage to a battery. I also don't know if you can expect a $35 charger to be perfectly accurate to a hundredth of a volt. I'm no expert on batteries or chargers, maybe someone with more knowledge and expertise can tell me if I am wrong. @Mooch ?
    Agree. I won't worry about a change from 0.01 as I 'wiggle" around a cell. The capacitance of your hand grabing the thing out of a charger can make it bounce that much haha.
     
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    DaveP

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    “Proper contact” isn't that crucial in charger rails, you're just dumping ≈1A of current on the battery so an extra of 0.05Ω contact resistance just means the charger will reach the CV phase a tad earlier and the charging time is going to be a few additional minutes, nothing more. Put some lubricant on the slides, slightly rotate each cell upon insertion, and get along with it. ;)
    Now, with regards to these mods you play with :rolleyes:, there is where you have to be sure your cells make proper contact, as you're discharging at very high rates and thus any stray resistance takes a heavy toll.

    Cheers :)

    I agree that charging is a low current operation.

    :) I'm the guy who always had a bottle of Deoxit in his toolbag for low voltage connectors and a tube of electrical silicone gel for AC plugs to prevent oxidation between dissimilar metals. All I do with a charger is rotate the batteries and press down to center them in the sled.

    On my Luc-4 I do see mismatches sometimes that are equalized with a battery twist, but it has a display that reveals small mismatches in voltage. I just like to make sure that contact is as good as it can get when charging.
     
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    David Wolf

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    After a lot of comparisons, Opus, GyrFalcon All-44, Lii-500, I ordered an Lii-500 from Fasttech, it will do what I need and is pretty much a compromise on pro's and cons and price. I don't think I would have gone wrong with any of those three, but had I ordered an Opus I would have ordered a spare fan for it from FT based on reviews and youtube videos - it runs the coolest though!
     

    DaveP

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    After a lot of comparisons, Opus, GyrFalcon All-44, Lii-500, I ordered an Lii-500 from Fasttech, it will do what I need and is pretty much a compromise on pro's and cons and price. I don't think I would have gone wrong with any of those three, but had I ordered an Opus I would have ordered a spare fan for it from FT based on reviews and youtube videos - it runs the coolest though!

    Looks like a good one in the Candlepower forums test.

    Test/Review of Charger LiitoKala Engineer Lii-500
     
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    David Wolf

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    Looks like a good one in the Candlepower forums test.

    Test/Review of Charger LiitoKala Engineer Lii-500
    That's one of the things that helped me to choose :D I looked at HKJ's testing of all three chargers and read some owner reviews, watched some YouTube teardown videos. All three are worthy so it boiled down to my personal preference based on what I will use it for and costs.
    Ordered the Lii-500 at 11:48 last night, FT sent email and I have a picture of it boxed and shipped already.
     
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    DaveP

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    My LUC 4 is a 4 bay, 1A beast for the money. My Xtar VC4 is a nice charger for informational displays, but it falls short when you need 3 or more batteries charged at 1A. Still, it's my goto charger for single and dual battery mode.

    My four year old Nitecore i4 has been relegated to NiMH charging. I tends to overcharge anything you put in it or at least heat them up more than I think necessary. My other chargers charge fast, but don't heat up batteries at .5A charge rates. I don't trust it.

    There's a 2016 model of the Nitecore i4 out. I wonder how it rates. It's probably the re-engineered version of my earlier one and those issues are fixed.
     
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    David Wolf

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    I read some good things about the LUC 4. What stopped me on the XTAR VC 4 was having to buy a wall power adapter for it. I also looked at a Nitecore D4. Then I found these threads, and did some more looking. I plan on charging li-ions and NImH batteries, so wanted one that would do both, charge at 1A if I chose, and run not so hot. And price value. :D Four independent displays is nice, but its easy enough to swap cell to cell on the Lii-500, and other parameters were more important to me.
     
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