Need general help with my build

[Azurini]

So I'm just going to put out there that I'm completely new to vaping (at least mechanical mods) and I'm having real trouble with what I've recently purchased. Basically the battery feels loose inside of the mod and I don't believe I have anything to stop it from being loose. Because of this the spring that making contact between the rda and the battery ends up burning out, if that's the right word. As in it "melts" to the side of the hole it goes in and I have to use a pencil to get it out and basically stretch it really badly. So basically I don't have a spring that works with it right now but I want to know why my spring keeps getting burned out. Also when I was testing the coils to see if they would heat up they would not glow red (even without the cotton).
I'm using a Glas mod and the Archon RDA with a skeleton key mod clone on the bottom.


If any additional pictures are needed let me know. Sorry for the bad quality.

The slot where the spring burned out.

 

[State O' Flux]

I'm having real trouble with what I've recently purchased. Basically the battery feels loose inside of the mod and I don't believe I have anything to stop it from being loose.

You have no internal contact pin adjustments on either the 510 positive, or the button negative contacts?

Because of this the spring that making contact between the RDA and the battery ends up burning out, if that's the right word. As in it "melts" to the side of the hole it goes in and I have to use a pencil to get it out

If a wire spring "melts" it's likely due to your net resistance being too low... more current is running through the spring than it was designed for. Why your resistance is low... I can't say.
Either you've built an atty with a resistance below that recommended for the mod/spring, or you have a dead short.

What is the RDA build net resistance?

I'm using a Glas mod and the Archon RDA with a skeleton key mod clone on the bottom.

What? You're using a Glas tube and 510 cap (clone or authentic?) and a Skeleton Key clone mod button assembly? If that's correct... why?

 

[Azurini]

You have no internal contact pin adjustments on either the 510 positive, or the button negative contacts?

If a wire spring "melts" it's likely due to your net resistance being too low... more current is running through the spring than it was designed for. Why your resistance is low... I can't say.
Either you've built an atty with a resistance below that recommended for the mod/spring, or you have a dead short.

What is the RDA build net resistance?

What? You're using a Glas tube and 510 cap (clone or authentic?) and a Skeleton Key clone mod button assembly? If that's correct... why?

I bought it in a bundle (friend recommended it to me)
MyFreedomSmokes VTC4 Cloud Chaser Bundle | Archon Skeleton Key bundle - MyFreedomSmokes
Also I don't believe I have contact pin adjustments which might also be the problem

 

[State O' Flux]

I bought it in a bundle (friend recommended it to me)
MyFreedomSmokes VTC4 Cloud Chaser Bundle | Archon Skeleton Key bundle - MyFreedomSmokes
Also I don't believe I have contact pin adjustments which might also be the problem

If you had the Skeleton Key top cap, rather than the Glas cap... you'd have a battery adjustment. I'm not going to ask how you ended up with such a strange combination.

Baring that... if you're mechanical, make a solid positive pin from some copper bar stock, or if the thread pitch is the common 20X1mm, there are plenty of alternate cap/510 pin assemblies that do have floating/telescopic adjusters.

 

[classwife]

Moved to New Members from Simple Solutions



Simple Solutions is to assist the Beginning Vaper with getting started

 

[paulparnham]

if your very new to vaping why on earth did u decide to go for a mech and a dripper. start with a vw mod and a clearomizer and work your way up