Yeah that's true but I really can't afford to be buying new tanks every month unless there 25 30 bucks. Plus I don't diy juice yet so my vape budget is spent mostly on these expensive ... juices. I'm loving the Gemini so far. Hits so nice. It should keep me content until my rx200s shows up I preordered from 101vape. I think I'm more addicted to buying vape stuff than actually vaping....lol
new gemini rta
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I'm stuck with a loose negative post as well. Tightened the 510 pin with no change. Any other tricks to try on it? Just started buying RTAs so I know little as of yet and just spent a ton of money on several vape items this past weekend.
The 510 pin is usually to tighten the positive post.
I emailed vaporesso with a detailed description of the problem as well as included pictures and a short video. They have sent me a replacement, but I have yet to get it.
Yea I figured it would only effect the positive but I did it anyway lol. Being new to this type of tank I tinkered with everything I could think of. Company I purchased it from had a final sale on it and there's no replace/return. Thanks for the reply!
I purchased mine online, but I emailed vaporesso directly from their website.
Doesn't hurt to try. The person I was dealing with was very helpful, I sent them some pics and videos, filled out a form and that was it. The email replies were about 12 hours apart but that is because of the time zone difference.
I have been using the gemini since May. I love how it performs. The past 3 days I have had jumping ohms issues. I normally build at .4 ohms and vape at 40 to 45 Watts. The past 3 days it's been jumping between .4 and .7. I tried rebuilding the coils, changing mods and it still happens. I tried cleaning the the deck with Vodka and a toothbrush and nothing changed. The posts and pins are not loose. I don't know where to look anymore. It's sad because I haven't used my RDAs in a while and I am a drip guy.
i have this rta and love it the center "post" does supply extra air but not in a "airing out" kind of way i have a 28twisted 6 wrap around a 2.5 ml screwdriver and at .4 ohms at 35 watts and preforms like a champ for me great flavor
yes mine locks up often also and can be frustrating riptripper said something in his review about it also and his freezer trick didn't work for me
does any one know where to get other driptips for the gemini that arn't 510 sized i hurd the kennedy tis work but haven't had luck in the real world
My first RTA/build and I am having issues unfortunately. Can not get it to stop leaking. At first I assumed it was my wicking (entirely possible, first time building any RTA but I did watch a few videos on this before/during my first build) or I under/over tightened it but then I found this:
Any idea how that would get there? I thought it was from the glass seals but that is not possible so I assume it was like that from the factory:
Here it is after I started pulling it out:
Here are the pieces I pulled out laying next to one of the glass seals:
I got it out of there and think it is still leaking (need to go check on it in a bit, have it in other room on paper towel with JFC and AFC closed) because the tank seals seem to shift some when tightening it. Here is the bottom of the glass with the seal stuck to it after disassembling it when it leaked:
And the glass itself shifts a bit under the top seal:
Any idea how that would get there? I thought it was from the glass seals but that is not possible so I assume it was like that from the factory:
Here it is after I started pulling it out:
Here are the pieces I pulled out laying next to one of the glass seals:
I got it out of there and think it is still leaking (need to go check on it in a bit, have it in other room on paper towel with JFC and AFC closed) because the tank seals seem to shift some when tightening it. Here is the bottom of the glass with the seal stuck to it after disassembling it when it leaked:
And the glass itself shifts a bit under the top seal:
Thanks for this, I noticed it when putting it on my pico before I realized it was leaking (poor pico got a bit of a juice bath).
If that glass is miscut (had it happen on a tank) and can't line up properly with the o ring and top, you'll never get a proper seal and will keep leaking. Have you checked the glass to be sure it's cut level on both ends?
No, thank you though. I will tear it down, clean it up and check it and the spare. I bought 2 of these (2 of just about everything I stocked up on actually) so hopefully at least 2 of them are cut properly.
I just brought it up because of that offset in the photo looking down from the top. It shouldn't be out like that at all. If it's not the glass responsible, one of the o rings must be applying uneven pressure to cause that misalignment.
I have no clue what that black plastic/rubber shaving is you pulled out either. It certainly looks like it's off one of the o rings, but not the one you placed next to the pieces in the photo.
I have no clue what that black plastic/rubber shaving is you pulled out either. It certainly looks like it's off one of the o rings, but not the one you placed next to the pieces in the photo.
I just checked it and I 'think' it is leaking at the seal below that where the tank goes over the deck, which is the white seal where I had those errant black pieces of seal/whatever. I am going to let it sit longer and wash out my griffin 22 (only bought one of these, and one of the 25's) to see if I can better tell where it's leaking from before I tear it down. I am wondering if those odd pieces of black stuff that were jammed in up under the deck, above the white tank cage seal, are what is causing it. Maybe there are more pieces there I didn't/can't see still causing it to not seal. Worst case I will tear it apart, clean it up, put it away with a note that it was having issues and give the spare one I bought a try.
Right now, after putting it back together this last time, it doesn't seem to be offset so I likely over tightened it before I took those pictures.
Thanks for the help and quick replies. This is going to be an adventure so good thing I bought lots of tanks lol.
Left it for an hour or two with JFC and AFC closed and no leaking. Opened the AFC and got a little leaking from the air holes, opened the JFC and got a lot more leaking so that would indicate a bad wicking job right?
I just ran to the corner shop and got the $50 MSRP authentic coil master building kit for 20% off deal they do on Wednesdays since every online site I ordered from was/is out of stock on the building kits.
I just ran to the corner shop and got the $50 MSRP authentic coil master building kit for 20% off deal they do on Wednesdays since every online site I ordered from was/is out of stock on the building kits.
Decided to give up on that one for today and tried using the same pre-built kanthal coils I bought in the griffin and that one leaked on me too... I have been trying it like most in the videos do leaving the wick ring on and tucking the wicks just into it. I will try re-wicking them both tomorrow using that ring I guess. Good thing I got plenty of juice, cotton and paper towels lol.
I finally got the gemini built without leaking. 
I wicked it and pushed the wicks down to the channels to be sure they weren't too long, saturated them to get them to fit the channels better then screwed the ring on, which was obviously a bit messy, wiped off my fingers and used tweezers to push the wicks back up into the ring some and make sure the airflow holes were open. Let it stand with JFC and AFC closed to be sure it wasn't leaking, opened the AFC and let it stand, then opened the JFC and let it stand for a while. Just fired it up and wow, so much airflow after vaping cubis tanks for a few weeks. Hitting like a champ right now with the included coils at .54ohm and 30w, took it up to 35 or 37w but was a bit hot and over what the ohm calculator app suggested for that resistance at 3.7 nominal volts.
Now to see if I can do the same for the griffin.
I wicked it and pushed the wicks down to the channels to be sure they weren't too long, saturated them to get them to fit the channels better then screwed the ring on, which was obviously a bit messy, wiped off my fingers and used tweezers to push the wicks back up into the ring some and make sure the airflow holes were open. Let it stand with JFC and AFC closed to be sure it wasn't leaking, opened the AFC and let it stand, then opened the JFC and let it stand for a while. Just fired it up and wow, so much airflow after vaping cubis tanks for a few weeks. Hitting like a champ right now with the included coils at .54ohm and 30w, took it up to 35 or 37w but was a bit hot and over what the ohm calculator app suggested for that resistance at 3.7 nominal volts.
Now to see if I can do the same for the griffin.
I just replaced the included coils with some pre-coiled comp wire claptons that come out to 0.3ohm. It brought this tank to life @ 40w (turned it up to 45 briefly but don't want to push this old istick 50w too hard) and I can now run it wide open airflow (better flavor if I keep the top closed) with a lot better vapor and flavor. I think I still prefer the griffin and I haven't even put a pair of these claptons in that tank yet (it will get them tomorrow).
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