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new here few q's about sub ohm builds!!

Discussion in 'Sub-Ohm' started by steve85, Nov 20, 2015.

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  1. steve85

    steve85 New Member

    Nov 20, 2015
    hi everyone im new here so forgive me if this is not the exact place for my questions.

    my equipment: evic vt mini, kanger stm( ordered on its way). sony vtc4 battery

    My first question is if i was to build say a .5ohm coil with kanthal a1 wire for example, i am confused as to what power/watts to run it at in power mode or is this purely subjective to personal preference ( taste heat and vapour) providing the total amp draw does not exceed the batteries maximum continous draw.

    My second question is, would it in your opinion be stupid to trust my evic to read the ohms of any given build before firing it ( providing i check it side by side with a trusted coil build calculator to see if its reading correctly)

    My third question is, would a sample pack of 28 30 32 awg kanthal a1 be suitable to build different coils from say .5 -1.5 ohm (just to get started an practice wrapping)

    again i apologise if i have posted silly questions or in the wrong section, i have searched around for answers but i get to many different options or opinions which lead me to make my own conclusions an confuse me further, i dnt want to make silly an dangerous mistakes

    thanks again im sure ill have more questions very soon
    steve
     
  2. KenD

    KenD Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    Aug 20, 2013
    Stockholm, Sweden
    The Evic won't fire coils that have too low of a resistance (.1 in vw mode, I think) so you're safe with the ohm reader on the device. With a vw device the amp draw is determined by the watts and the battery charge level, resistance doesn't matter.

    28, 30, and 32 gauge wires should be fine. Personally I'd go for 26, 28, and 30. 32 is too flimsy for me, but that's just about my preferences.

    Wattage settings are pretty much up to personal preference, though different tanks and coil builds can take less or more power. More airflow and better wicking and you can go higher in watts. Lower gauge wire means more mass, which requires more power to heat up. Start low and increase the watts untill you are satisfied.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
     
  3. izen

    izen Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Nov 2, 2013
    Northeast
    They used to say Google is your friend. In this world Steam Engine is your friend. I think you'll be far better served by using 24, 26 and 28Ga. wire. I wouldn't bother with higher gauges at all. Coil building isn't as tough as it appears to be. Proper wicking isn't as easy as it seems to be. Get yourself a spare battery. Have fun with it
     
  4. steve85

    steve85 New Member

    Nov 20, 2015
    thankyou izen an ken for your responses

    the only reason i say those gauges is because thats whats in the sample pack but i shall take a look at those other gauges thankyou.

    also am i to understand that if i made a .5 kanthal coil an ran it at 60w in power mode then id be taxing my battery for 10.9 amps . i think you are right kenD it wont fire below .1, i currently have a .19 running in tc mode (nickel).
    it was just ive seen an read of people taxing there battery to much an it going into meltdown mode not a pretty sight for sure!! an really dont want to make a silly mistake so id thought i best ask lol

    also ken as you mention amp draw depends on charge level an watts (battery goes down so does amp draw) i thought that regulated device kept power consistent throughout battery discharge as much as possible apart from in bypass mode wich i beleive turns it into a mech mod (im probly wrong desperately trying to learn lol)

    as from what i understand i could theorectically build a .3 coil run at 60w which comes out at 14.14 amps which is well within my batteries capabilites (an i doubt id ever go lower unless in tc mode with ni or ti) basically i cant really cause any problems with building my own providing i make sure i keep above .3

    the above makes sense as i read it but may not to you so apologies its not ignorance just wanna do things right cos i like my face n finger
     
  5. Konstantinos Voultsos

    Konstantinos Voultsos Full Member

    Nov 30, 2015
    Greece
    Most new devices like the VTC have in built protections for shorting, reverse battery insertion, low ohmage etc. On my IPV D2 for example if I try to fire it in TC mode on a .1 coil when I have my NCR 6A battery it wont fire and just shut down. I do not reccomend trying this on yoru device as I don't know hwo it will respond, but you get the general idea. 60W is a lot, even for a .3 Ω coil, at least for me.

    When building the coil, if/when you dryburn it, check when it glows almost instantly when you fire it. That should be a rough threshold on what watts to use. But ALWAYS start low and check which setting is comfortable for you . Its always trial and error
     
  6. KenD

    KenD Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    Aug 20, 2013
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Steve85, 60w on a .5 coil is about 20 amps, 60w on a .19 coil is about 20 amps. On a regulated mod resistance doesn't factor into the amp draw.

    As for batteries, a mod won't really have a way to know the amp limit of a battery so it's fully possible to vent a battery if the watt setting is too high.

    Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
     
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