New Joyetech 20watt eGrip

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op22222

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I'm using BVC coils which are 1.8 ohms and I don't think it's coil related. When the device is functioning properly, the button will fire regardless of whether the atomizer is attached or not ( stay lit when pressed without flashing), when it is " malfunctioning", the button will flash 3 times and not fire. The atomizer can be attached or out. It seems fairly random to me at this point.

Kyi....it seems to me like the problem could be in the base. You can get a replacement base for around 4 bucks. If that works it's a cheap fix for you. Also, if you're using Aspire BVC, coils, which don't screw in all the way, you could try using the CS coils.
 

cracker75

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Great....some part of the usb charging port just came out when I removed the cable.......sent an email to myvaporstore, but it's 2 months old, so probably no help there.

I'll also probably buy another one, because there's so much I love about this thing, so I guess I can only hope quality control has improved (I purchased mine within a week of them being available, so maybe mine's still beta). Really sad. God do I love this thing.

Charging port aside, it stopped firing last night anyway, keeps flashing. no shorts, resistance is 1.5 ohm. everything is AOK, but it won't go. Maybe the charge port issue is why it's flashing. I don't know.
 

scarf-ace

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So I'm going nearly ten days on the RBA base. I've rewicked once (longer rayon wick, replacing the too-short cotton wick that came with it and caused gurgles I think) and given the coil a quick mascara-brush cleaning. Besides that, no maintenance whatsoever and still vaping like a champ. This sure beats the 4-6 days I was getting out of the stock coil heads!

I'm kind of dreading the inevitable day when I have to recoil. RBAs and I have, shall we say, a fraught relationship. :D As long as I keep the coil clean and gunk-free, I can probably delay that for a long time, right? I have not had to recoil my AGA-T5 for months with careful cleaning and maintenance. What's the longest y'all have gone without replacing the coil?
 

alongo

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Great....some part of the usb charging port just came out when I removed the cable.......sent an email to myvaporstore, but it's 2 months old, so probably no help there.

I'll also probably buy another one, because there's so much I love about this thing, so I guess I can only hope quality control has improved (I purchased mine within a week of them being available, so maybe mine's still beta). Really sad. God do I love this thing.

Charging port aside, it stopped firing last night anyway, keeps flashing. no shorts, resistance is 1.5 ohm. everything is AOK, but it won't go. Maybe the charge port issue is why it's flashing. I don't know.

If your vendor won't do anything call joyetech usa, it is a known defect, just be persistent and they will cave..I have sent back 2, they assured me the problem has been fixed. Good luck. I believe for fact they have a 90 day warrenty, so your vender should replace it.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 

cigatron

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So I'm going nearly ten days on the RBA base. I've rewicked once (longer rayon wick, replacing the too-short cotton wick that came with it and caused gurgles I think) and given the coil a quick mascara-brush cleaning. Besides that, no maintenance whatsoever and still vaping like a champ. This sure beats the 4-6 days I was getting out of the stock coil heads!

I'm kind of dreading the inevitable day when I have to recoil. RBAs and I have, shall we say, a fraught relationship. :D As long as I keep the coil clean and gunk-free, I can probably delay that for a long time, right? I have not had to recoil my AGA-T5 for months with careful cleaning and maintenance. What's the longest y'all have gone without replacing the coil?

I'm still using the same diy coil I put in the day I got it. 29awg 8/7 5/64dia 1.8ohm. Takes less than 10 minutes to wind and install a new coil in this rba. Dryburned, rinsed with water and rewicked every so often I've vaped 120ml so far on this coil.

Waiting for my wire order to come in so I can wind a 28awg coil that hits closer to 1.5ohms.
 

Kyi

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Kyi, I had this issue the other day...I was at work and with no back up :(
I found the 1 screw was a fuzz loose...first time.
Second time I found the 1 coil leg (loose one) was too far in and touching the side.

Just something to look at if/when it happens ;)

I'm using the BVC coils, so it is not a RBA coil related issue.

Kyi....it seems to me like the problem could be in the base. You can get a replacement base for around 4 bucks. If that works it's a cheap fix for you. Also, if you're using Aspire BVC, coils, which don't screw in all the way, you could try using the CS coils.

I thought it was a base related issue, BUT like I stated before, when it IS functioning and I press the button, it will STAY LIT as if it was firing, and this will happen REGARDLESS if the base is attached or NOT. When it is NOT working, the button will flash regardless if the base is in or not, which means it is not a base related issue. I know the BVC coil does not screw in all the way, that is not the issue. I do not like the CS coils which is the main reason I am using the BVC coils to begin with. When it is NOT functioning, it doesn't matter what I attach to it or if there's nothing on it. The 3 flashes means it will not fire and I do not know what the reason for that is, but I do know it is not an RBA related issue since I am not using it, nor a base related issue since it happens regardless of what is or isn't attached.

I'm pretty sure this problem is related to the device itself. One moment it works, one moment it doesn't. Nothing has changed between those moments. I can attach the RBA, the original coils, the BVC, or nothing at all, the 3 flashes indicates it won't fire. The site states that the 3 flashes means it is low battery but I know that is not the case because it was fully charged, and even if it wasn't, it should fire in passthrough mode and believe me, I have tried just about everything. I'm not an electronics expert, but if I were to guess the issue, it is something internal with the battery or circuitry where it thinks the battery is low when it isn't or something related to that. Try it yourself. When you press the button and it fires, the button stays lit until you let go. Even without the base or anything attached, the button should do the same thing.

But for the record, it is currently functioning properly WITH the BVC coil attached and hitting great like it usually does when it is working. But hey, who knows when it will decide to act up again for no reason! Hence, my second mod on its way to me which will hopefully behave itself and let me vape it without being finicky.
 
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Cellodick

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Apr 14, 2014
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I'm using the BVC coils, so it is not a RBA coil related issue.



I thought it was a base related issue, BUT like I stated before, when it IS functioning and I press the button, it will STAY LIT as if it was firing, and this will happen REGARDLESS if the base is attached or NOT. When it is NOT working, the button will flash regardless if the base is in or not, which means it is not a base related issue. I know the BVC coil does not screw in all the way, that is not the issue. I do not like the CS coils which is the main reason I am using the BVC coils to begin with. When it is NOT functioning, it doesn't matter what I attach to it or if there's nothing on it. The 3 flashes means it will not fire and I do not know what the reason for that is, but I do know it is not an RBA related issue since I am not using it, nor a base related issue since it happens regardless of what is or isn't attached.

I'm pretty sure this problem is related to the device itself. One moment it works, one moment it doesn't. Nothing has changed between those moments. I can attach the RBA, the original coils, the BVC, or nothing at all, the 3 flashes indicates it won't fire. The site states that the 3 flashes means it is low battery but I know that is not the case because it was fully charged, and even if it wasn't, it should fire in passthrough mode and believe me, I have tried just about everything. I'm not an electronics expert, but if I were to guess the issue, it is something internal with the battery or circuitry where it thinks the battery is low when it isn't or something related to that. Try it yourself. When you press the button and it fires, the button stays lit until you let go. Even without the base or anything attached, the button should do the same thing.

But for the record, it is currently functioning properly WITH the BVC coil attached and hitting great like it usually does when it is working. But hey, who knows when it will decide to act up again for no reason! Hence, my second mod on its way to me which will hopefully behave itself and let me vape it without being finicky.

When you get the new one, Keep it away from water. That's definitely what's causing your problem.
 

cigatron

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Looks cool.... never tried one before, but what you guys/gals think ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTVsYRVPZ_0

But this looks faster....lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikwich_p_zw

What do I think? After winding hundreds of contact and spaced coils, "turn the tool, not the wire", as my signiture states. If you are cutting a piece of wire off the spool to wind it you're already lossing optimal performance from your coil. Compression winding the coil as shown in those two vids is not going to give you the best vape from your coils. My recommendation is to wind with tension; not compression.

Super_X_Drifter is the one responsible for introducing ECF to the contact microcoil; he winds with tension using an "Artisan Coiling Gizmo". MacTechVpr is the one responsible for introducing ECF to tension winding; he tension winds with a pin vise. Both are excellent ways to tension wind your coils. I'm the one who introduced ECF to the DIY Cigamajig Winder; a super cheap homemade tool to tension wind perfect coils in 20 seconds or less (see my blog for info on fabricating and using the Cigamajig) All three of these tools share one thing in common; winding with tension directly from the wire spool.

Tension winding gets you uniformity, symmetry in the coil, and necessarily so. With uniform diameter, straightness and turn-to-turn contact you can achieve "The Effect", a vaping term used by advanced builders to describe a super efficient coil that demonstrates remarkable vapor and flavor production; mind blowing actually. When you achieve it you'll know it. We'll get you there.
 
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Cellodick

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Apr 14, 2014
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What do I think? After winding hundreds of contact and spaced coils, "turn the tool, not the wire", as my signiture states. If you are cutting a piece of wire off the spool to wind it you're already lossing optimal performance from your coil. Compression winding the coil as shown in those two vids is not going to give you the best vape from your coils. My recommendation is to wind with tension; not compression.

Super_X_Drifter is the one responsible for introducing ECF to the contact microcoil; he winds with tension using an "Artisan Coiling Gizmo". MacTechVpr is the one responsible for introducing ECF to tension winding; he tension winds with a pin vise. Both are excellent ways to tension wind your coils. I'm the one who introduced ECF to the DIY Cigamajig Winder; a super cheap homemade tool to tension wind perfect coils in 20 seconds or less (see my blog for info on fabricating and using the Cigamajig) All three of these tools share one thing in common; winding with tension directly from the wire spool.

Tension winding gets you uniformity, symmetry in the coil, and necessarily so. With uniform diameter, straightness and turn-to-turn contact you can achieve "The Effect", a vaping term used by advanced builders to describe a super efficient coil that demonstrates remarkable vapor and flavor production; mind blowing actually. When you achieve it you'll know it. We'll get you there.

Second guy IS turning the tool not the wire.
 

cigatron

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Second guy IS turning the tool not the wire.

True, but still not winding with tension which is what I was stressing in my post. If he had left the wire attached to the spool and applied some tension while slowly running the drill he would be tension winding; the resulting coil would be held in much better symmetry.
 
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MacTechVpr

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Second guy IS turning the tool not the wire.

High Cello. There's no way to get even a steady level of (inadequate) strain with these coiler designs. You might perhaps add some if you wind fast but the pin which forces the wire onto the bit prevents even compression. Though thick wire winds look stable in such static loops, they're not. Plus it's easy to just form something. You don't need a 20buck tool for that. You need 1$ instrument screwdriver, your thumb and index finger and you can form wire onto a pin all day. Probably tighter than most of these devices.

Some are going to argue well they want to stay that shape. Well yeah. They want to stay an incomplete coil that still has to be compressed and or touched to become a real microcoil and get the resistance and stability advantages that brings.

You need about double the thumb-index pressure or force to get the wire, depending on gauge, to the point of strain that it wants to stick as a unit. What I refer to as adhesion. It's there that you're going to be able to pulse to the most uniform state of oxidation and lock in the advantages of turn-to-turn contact. Forming the wire doesn't get it there.

Even from wind to wind on some of these devices you see turn deviation, end turn incongruity, high turns, low turns, differences in the pitch angle. It's a mess. And even small deviations unseen without some magnification can throw off your res and produce spontaneous hot-cool zones you don't necessarily notice…until you vape them. Then you ask yourself, why didn't I get that last time? Well they don't come out the same each time. So in many respects it's like the unpredictable factory hand wound coil. But in every case hotter and not nearly as uniform in heat distribution as a proper tensioned micro.


376578d1411647790-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th-img_1070a.jpg



Quite honestly having studied this technology for quite some time I'm surprised by the indifference to the science involved by some, what we know about how things work. It's not only baffling but disconcerting as equally counterintuitive from a sales and marketing standpoint. You'd think those selling and producing these articles would want to improve your vape. Stands to reason you as a consumer are more apt to acquire more gear if you're better satisfied with your results, no? So this whole thing makes no sense to many of us veteran vapers and contributors.

I can guarantee you with all confidence that you will too, if you try this…see its distinct advantages (and disadvantages when they exist). You gain the skill to not only gauge what a proper electrical circuit may accomplish but every deviation we are likely to experiment with and to put it in perspective.

Then you get a lot of practiced hands, and I could easily be one of them, that learned on open winds and swear by them...because I can make 'em exact every time, I'd say. Nothin' wrong with that. If I were and never cared to try tension, I'd be on your side of the isle scratchin' my head. And I'd likely stay right there 'cause it's comfortable. And that's ok too.

What I urge all vapers and particularly new ones is that this is a valuable tool. Once you put it in your pocket, you're going to see its benefits and always want to use it.

Give it a go and see for yourself.

Good luck all.

:)
 

Cellodick

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Apr 14, 2014
173
133
Hollywood
High Cello. There's no way to get even a steady level of (inadequate) strain with these coiler designs. You might perhaps add some if you wind fast but the pin which forces the wire onto the bit prevents even compression. Though thick wire winds look stable in such static loops, they're not. Plus it's easy to just form something. You don't need a 20buck tool for that. You need 1$ instrument screwdriver, your thumb and index finger and you can form wire onto a pin all day. Probably tighter than most of these devices.

Some are going to argue well they want to stay that shape. Well yeah. They want to stay an incomplete coil that still has to be compressed and or touched to become a real microcoil and get the resistance and stability advantages that brings.

You need about double the thumb-index pressure or force to get the wire, depending on gauge, to the point of strain that it wants to stick as a unit. What I refer to as adhesion. It's there that you're going to be able to pulse to the most uniform state of oxidation and lock in the advantages of turn-to-turn contact. Forming the wire doesn't get it there.

Even from wind to wind on some of these devices you see turn deviation, end turn incongruity, high turns, low turns, differences in the pitch angle. It's a mess. And even small deviations unseen without some magnification can throw off your res and produce spontaneous hot-cool zones you don't necessarily notice…until you vape them. Then you ask yourself, why didn't I get that last time? Well they don't come out the same each time. So in many respects it's like the unpredictable factory hand wound coil. But in every case hotter and not nearly as uniform in heat distribution as a proper tensioned micro.


376578d1411647790-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th-img_1070a.jpg



Quite honestly having studied this technology for quite some time I'm surprised by the indifference to the science involved by some, what we know about how things work. It's not only baffling but disconcerting as equally counterintuitive from a sales and marketing standpoint. You'd think those selling and producing these articles would want to improve your vape. Stands to reason you as a consumer are more apt to acquire more gear if you're better satisfied with your results, no? So this whole thing makes no sense to many of us veteran vapers and contributors.

I can guarantee you with all confidence that you will too, if you try this…see its distinct advantages (and disadvantages when they exist). You gain the skill to not only gauge what a proper electrical circuit may accomplish but every deviation we are likely to experiment with and to put it in perspective.

Then you get a lot of practiced hands, and I could easily be one of them, that learned on open winds and swear by them...because I can make 'em exact every time, I'd say. Nothin' wrong with that. If I were and never cared to try tension, I'd be on your side of the isle scratchin' my head. And I'd likely stay right there 'cause it's comfortable. And that's ok too.

What I urge all vapers and particularly new ones is that this is a valuable tool. Once you put it in your pocket, you're going to see its benefits and always want to use it.

Give it a go and see for yourself.

Good luck all.

:)

I am on your side of the AISLE
.
I WAS JUST POINTING OUT THAT HE WAS TURNING THE TOOL. that's all.
I also use tension wound coils. I understand the concept.
Thanks. Have a good day.
 

op22222

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I'm using the BVC coils, so it is not a RBA coil related issue.



I thought it was a base related issue, BUT like I stated before, when it IS functioning and I press the button, it will STAY LIT as if it was firing, and this will happen REGARDLESS if the base is attached or NOT. When it is NOT working, the button will flash regardless if the base is in or not, which means it is not a base related issue. I know the BVC coil does not screw in all the way, that is not the issue. I do not like the CS coils which is the main reason I am using the BVC coils to begin with. When it is NOT functioning, it doesn't matter what I attach to it or if there's nothing on it. The 3 flashes means it will not fire and I do not know what the reason for that is, but I do know it is not an RBA related issue since I am not using it, nor a base related issue since it happens regardless of what is or isn't attached.

I'm pretty sure this problem is related to the device itself. One moment it works, one moment it doesn't. Nothing has changed between those moments. I can attach the RBA, the original coils, the BVC, or nothing at all, the 3 flashes indicates it won't fire. The site states that the 3 flashes means it is low battery but I know that is not the case because it was fully charged, and even if it wasn't, it should fire in passthrough mode and believe me, I have tried just about everything. I'm not an electronics expert, but if I were to guess the issue, it is something internal with the battery or circuitry where it thinks the battery is low when it isn't or something related to that. Try it yourself. When you press the button and it fires, the button stays lit until you let go. Even without the base or anything attached, the button should do the same thing.

But for the record, it is currently functioning properly WITH the BVC coil attached and hitting great like it usually does when it is working. But hey, who knows when it will decide to act up again for no reason! Hence, my second mod on its way to me which will hopefully behave itself and let me vape it without being finicky.

It really sucks you have a bad unit. I wish I ( or somebody) had an answer to your problem. Intermittent problems are the hardest ones to solve for sure. I'm sorry about your misfortune and wish you good luck on the new one you ordered.
 
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