New member. Looking for the best mesh RTA to buy

[thomasterrible]

I’ve had it awhile and since I only use one or two mods it gets lots of use. I’ve gotten a mesh dry hit and it’s unpleasant, exactly like a dry hit with a wire coil. I don’t like any dry hits, they are all unpleasant. I’m sorry for your friend, if he had more experience he could have remedied the situation. I’ve tried some mesh factory coils as well and I’ve really liked some of them. I think mesh is here to stay and will continue to get better.

smok is putting money in to making mesh coils but just really getting started as I have not looked too hard but I can find the ones for the BBB easily and inexpensively. They also make them for the Prince which I have one of those but don't use it enough to buy more coils for it yet. But Smok make the mesh and what they call "strip" coils for those which are just mesh made out of Kanthal and of a lower "thread count" vs the finer mesh like what came with the Themis. I have found somewhere that sells 5 foot rolls for $3.99 of GeekVapes mesh but was waiting to try the samples that came with it to buy rolls.
My point is that Smoktech appears to be counting on mesh working out.

 

[Myk]

I have never used Bacon much less Bacon prime before. I do have some very high end cotton that comes very much like Bacon does as far as the rope type I could use as a known thing. Though I do want to use the Bacon as it is so forgiving and absorbs so much juice.

I would stick with what you know. Or at least compare before believing the hype.

After fixing my black Themis' problems by going to my old cotton balls I may not be using up my Smok sheets that came with tanks or buying any other sheets.
I was thinking there would be a consitency problem between cotton balls but if there is I sure got lucky with the first one I unrolled. It was much easier to cut 1" of cotton balls than cut squares out of a sheet, and it seems to be the right amount to fill up the arch.

I think mesh is here to stay and will continue to get better.

From my very short and poorly supplied tool attempt with 500 or 400 gennie wick mesh I think as far as RTAs go the improvement will be in the mesh itself.
Some way to add bulk without taking away resistance in a screen form. Thinking of it like claptons where the wraps don't affect the Ω much, maybe light high resistance strands going long ways down the roll with a continuous heavier strand woven back and forth.
Otherwise rolls of stamped mesh.

 

[madstabber]

Smok is putting money in to making mesh coils but just really getting started as I have not looked too hard but I can find the ones for the BBB easily and inexpensively. They also make them for the Prince which I have one of those but don't use it enough to buy more coils for it yet. But Smok make the mesh and what they call "strip" coils for those which are just mesh made out of Kanthal and of a lower "thread count" vs the finer mesh like what came with the Themis. I have found somewhere that sells 5 foot rolls for $3.99 of GeekVapes mesh but was waiting to try the samples that came with it to buy rolls.
My point is that Smoktech appears to be counting on mesh working out.

Yea I waited to try the mesh samples for my Themis and when I got it, no sample mesh so I had to buy some. I won my Themis so I didn’t feel like I should complain so I just bought a spool of kanthal and a spool of ss.
I also won a Pico S kit that came with the Ello vate tank and two mesh coils. The tank holds 6.5 ml which is awesome and the HW-N .2 coil works great, very flavorful vape. They also use the smok baby beast coils and a few others so the cross compatibility is awesome. It opens up to a huge selection of coils and some are popular mesh ones. I had no plans to use the Ello vate beyond the sample coils it came with because I love my Themis I have a nice RTA I like and the uwell crown for my factory coil tank. The Vate is just as good as the crown, and maybe a little better, so with the increased capacity it’s a no brainer.

 

[thomasterrible]

Yea I waited to try the mesh samples for my Themis and when I got it, no sample mesh so I had to buy some. I won my Themis so I didn’t feel like I should complain so I just bought a spool of kanthal and a spool of ss.
I also won a Pico S kit that came with the Ello vate tank and two mesh coils. The tank holds 6.5 ml which is awesome and the HW-N .2 coil works great, very flavorful vape. They also use the smok baby beast coils and a few others so the cross compatibility is awesome. It opens up to a huge selection of coils and some are popular mesh ones. I had no plans to use the Ello vate beyond the sample coils it came with because I love my Themis I have a nice RTA I like and the uwell crown for my factory coil tank. The Vate is just as good as the crown, and maybe a little better, so with the increased capacity it’s a no brainer.

 

[thomasterrible]

Well I found out about the mesh coils so I made sure I bought them and since at the time they were only available for the Smok BBB and Prince and a couple other brands of pre-made coils I bought a couple of those $12.99 BBB light up editions and several boxes of the coils so I had the same tanks and coils but they were all different colors so I could remember what flavor was in them.
But then I found out about the mesh RTA's and to be honest I was surprised I could tell minor differences such as the Smok mesh coils vs their traditional ones so I felt more that usual I might like a mesh RTA. Knowing that I just snipped off a piece of mesh and it had regular screws and the clamps which is easy it made me want to do it even more. But I could only find 2 on the market and did not think the Vandy was a design I thought would be great.
I really need to get an authentic Themis to be sure but it could be that better mesh RTA's come out soon or it could be like some atomizers, my Crown 1 comes to mind, that I still like better today.
With my credits it made it an even easier choice to buy.

 

[thomasterrible]

increased capacity it’s a no brainer.[/QUOTE]

I would stick with what you know. Or at least compare before believing the hype.

After fixing my black Themis' problems by going to my old cotton balls I may not be using up my Smok sheets that came with tanks or buying any other sheets.
I was thinking there would be a consitency problem between cotton balls but if there is I sure got lucky with the first one I unrolled. It was much easier to cut 1" of cotton balls than cut squares out of a sheet, and it seems to be the right amount to fill up the arch.

Well I get your point about the wick but I am willing to put a bit of time in to getting my wick method down so it is quick and easy and works well. The two kinds I have in my kit I have not used in a long time are a few of the organic Japanese cotton rectangular pads and a small bag of Kendo Vape Cotton Gold Edition which claims to be 100% organic; unbleached; heat resistant; Odourless (don't know if they are from the UK or didn't spell correctly); Low Taste Retention; Easy to wick (sounds great!); Superior absorption; 2X longer lasting; Ready to use and No boiling required. So I am fairly sure it is cotton. It says cultivated in Japan.

Honestly compared to the pads this stuff is much better when I used it to wick normal coils. It was easy to have long strands or break it in to even long pieces or just all around easy to get what you want. I never had any wicking issues but the Crave I don't think is difficult to wick.

I also had a thought about your Clapton mesh idea. I can tell you that I could make a perfect coil either together or evenly spaced the heated properly and looked perfect but if I used smooth Kanthal it didn't work well at all. ANY sort of clapton wire and it worked as good as any atomizer I had tried. So I am a fan of clapton.

 

[Myk]

Well I found out about the mesh coils so I made sure I bought them and since at the time they were only available for the Smok BBB and Prince and a couple other brands of pre-made coils I bought a couple of those $12.99 BBB light up editions and several boxes of the coils so I had the same tanks and coils but they were all different colors so I could remember what flavor was in them.
But then I found out about the mesh RTA's and to be honest I was surprised I could tell minor differences such as the Smok mesh coils vs their traditional ones so I felt more that usual I might like a mesh RTA. Knowing that I just snipped off a piece of mesh and it had regular screws and the clamps which is easy it made me want to do it even more. But I could only find 2 on the market and did not think the Vandy was a design I thought would be great.
I really need to get an authentic Themis to be sure but it could be that better mesh RTA's come out soon or it could be like some atomizers, my Crown 1 comes to mind, that I still like better today.
With my credits it made it an even easier choice to buy.

Do you know what they're going to do about the clone yet?

I don't trust places that have a shipping policy of once they give it to the mail it's your problem. They are who pays for the insurance, they are who files the claim.

Before I got my Themis I considered making a little loom to weave some mesh out of my clapton wrapping wire. It's still in my thoughts. That would make it easy to control the resistance and mass. Although it does destroy the ease of making a coil means cutting an inch off a spool.

 

[thomasterrible]

Do you know what they're going to do about the clone yet?

I don't trust places that have a shipping policy of once they give it to the mail it's your problem. They are who pays for the insurance, they are who files the claim.

Before I got my Themis I considered making a little loom to weave some mesh out of my clapton wrapping wire. It's still in my thoughts. That would make it easy to control the resistance and mass. Although it does destroy the ease of making a coil means cutting an inch off a spool.

Oh I am not worried in the least. I have never had anyone attempt to defraud me and get away with it. I have also won 100% of all hearings for all court cases in which I represented myself. That includes a 1.5 year long fight over custody of my daughter when she had two experienced family law attorneys. I had her found in contempt 4 times, got custody of my daughter and child support. And dozens of other cases

I paid with a Visa bank card so I could have just taken the money back instantly today. I am waiting to hear from their top person on Monday though.

And if it came to it because it was shipped via the US Mail I could have them investigated for mail fraud by the Postmaster General. You don't want the feds after you. I did this once before years ago with a very small eBay purchase when eBay was young. It was under $10 for a porcelain angel for my mother who collected them. I researched her past and contacted her other members she had,taken small amounts of money from and not sent them anything. From Seattle area I was able to get an Indiana State Trooper drive to her house and she decided to pay the people she scammed.
A little while later I got an email from her asking for my help as she was,under investigation by the Federal Post Master,General. I told her I was,shocked she would,steal from me then ask me,to provide,her with a,defense
I said good luck and good bye.

I think they will do something for me
But I always have ways to make things right when needed.

 

[stylemessiah]

Did you ever consider if nobody else has a problem and you had the problem many times over multiple items that the problem is you?

I read your story elsewhere. Your buddy got your deck from the attys you said you returned because the top leaked? I'm amazed your RMA was approved sending them back a different item than they sent you.

To get the story correct, i reported that i had the same issue on 2 different tanks that just happend to share the same topseal method..so...

Hmm, yup the "its me" argument on something else i referred to elsewhere defense..sheesh, i havent heard that from a fanboy of a product ive "insulted" before, so...ive seen much more effort from people scouring forums trying to get "ammunition" on me

If you had of done a bit more work, i have said that the issue with the topseal i experienced may be:

a) due to manufacturing errors/tolerances not being great and possible i got a bad one of each, i have had not the best luck with gear, its well documented

b) not an issue if you leave the airflow on tanks using it wide open as this doesnt place as much stress on the topseal as closing it down and creating more pressure on it. Up until i got my Crius II, ive never been able to run an airy DL tank wide open - i tend to get hiccups, and so have to close them down. The Crius II is the first DL tank ive owned that ive been able to run wide open.

So ive made those points, and said personally i wont be buying another tank that uses that topseal system because ive had 2 tanks in a row using that system fail for me. It happened. I explained why they may have failed, clearly.

Your buddy got your deck from the attys you said you returned because the top leaked? I'm amazed your RMA was approved sending them back a different item than they sent you.

You didnt understand what i said, nor how an RMA with my supplier works

I had a Themis RTA that was agreed faulty with proof given to the supplier. That supplier doesnt require gear sent back to them. On the occasion i have a bad tank, i do not keep them or the parts, i pif (pay it forward, or donate) the good and known working parts to other vapers, often those who have posted with issues or broken parts of the same tanks. So when someone i knew had posted they had ordered a non-mesh Themis, but receieved a mesh Themis, i sent him my non-mesh Themis parts....simples

I'm not saying I've never had burnt hits. I solved them.
If you pulsed to get an even glow before you start, hot spots would be you either don't have enough wick to cover everywhere on the coil or you're not wicking fast enough.
Or with TC you're flooding and the coil is trying to get too hot to burn it off because of the low mass.
And I can tell from your comment about the volume of cotton not wicking is you really don't have a grasp of how things work. Once primed it takes a long time to get that volume of cotton dry enough to be the cause of a burnt hit.

Youre proving my point here, burnt hits. You may think you've solved them, but they'll be back. Is it really worth all the fiddling to try and avoid it, not to me.

No, i dont know anything about wicking *rolls eyes* - find a post of me anywhere on the internet where ive reported a dry hit ever(other than the infamous dry hit roulette vape meet competition), even on threads where ive had a bad tank...never had a wicking issue in 3.5 years of vaping, so, yeah i know nothing about wicking at all...sheesh

And then theres the plus i use rayon now anyways, so....

You can get any build performing fine when the wick is primed after building, of course its not going to dry hit then..so thats an absurd argument to try and use.....

Your leaking tops were probably you not closing it all the way. One faulty top not tight enough would be believable. Multiples over different similar brands. It's you.
Otherwise it is simply impossible to do what you said.

Yup, i cannot close a tank properly, after all these years. Im a failure...another butthurt lashout reply, lazy...

For the sane amongst us, refer to me earlier comment about where the failure might be, and why on multiple brands of tank, but using the same topsealing system. It actually makes sense, unlike this poor swipe attempt...

But, no, its easier to say its me....

Yes many reviewers getting free stuff gloss over the bad but the rest of us who pay for the stuff don't. If your leaks were an issue with manufacturing they would be an issue known about.
Your hot spots are a build issue that you didn't want to take the time to learn how to fix.
The burns with the Vandy mesh are wide spread and known about, why aren't they with the Themis?

Show me where ive ever said i wasnt the only one with the issue...so....

Show me where i ever said id had a hotspot issue...never had one, ever...like ever, so...

Ive related other people i know with the same gear having hotspot issues with the same gear, so please direct your butthurt reply on that angle to them, let me know and ill give you their usernames/emails, i know they'd want to get in on the snide personalised comments on their abilities...theyre amongst the most experienced vapers here that i know personally, so that will be fun for you...

And thats really the point here, i called out the gear, and the gear only

You made it personal

Hows that looking now as a strategy for you? Especially after ive just torn each personal barb at me apart?

 

[Myk]

To get the story correct, i reported that i had the same issue on 2 different tanks that just happend to share the same topseal method..so...

Hmm, yup the "its me" argument on something else i referred to elsewhere defense..sheesh, i havent heard that from a fanboy of a product ive "insulted" before, so...ive seen much more effort from people scouring forums trying to get "ammunition" on me

If you had of done a bit more work, i have said that the issue with the topseal i experienced may be:

a) due to manufacturing errors/tolerances not being great and possible i got a bad one of each, i have had not the best luck with gear, its well documented

b) not an issue if you leave the airflow on tanks using it wide open as this doesnt place as much stress on the topseal as closing it down and creating more pressure on it. Up until i got my Crius II, ive never been able to run an airy DL tank wide open - i tend to get hiccups, and so have to close them down. The Crius II is the first DL tank ive owned that ive been able to run wide open.

So ive made those points, and said personally i wont be buying another tank that uses that topseal system because ive had 2 tanks in a row using that system fail for me. It happened. I explained why they may have failed, clearly.



You didnt understand what i said, nor how an RMA with my supplier works

I had a Themis RTA that was agreed faulty with proof given to the supplier. That supplier doesnt require gear sent back to them. On the occasion i have a bad tank, i do not keep them or the parts, i pif (pay it forward, or donate) the good and known working parts to other vapers, often those who have posted with issues or broken parts of the same tanks. So when someone i knew had posted they had ordered a non-mesh Themis, but receieved a mesh Themis, i sent him my non-mesh Themis parts....simples



Youre proving my point here, burnt hits. You may think you've solved them, but they'll be back. Is it really worth all the fiddling to try and avoid it, not to me.

No, i dont know anything about wicking *rolls eyes* - find a post of me anywhere on the internet where ive reported a dry hit ever(other than the infamous dry hit roulette vape meet competition), even on threads where ive had a bad tank...never had a wicking issue in 3.5 years of vaping, so, yeah i know nothing about wicking at all...sheesh

And then theres the plus i use rayon now anyways, so....

You can get any build performing fine when the wick is primed after building, of course its not going to dry hit then..so thats an absurd argument to try and use.....



Yup, i cannot close a tank properly, after all these years. Im a failure...another butthurt lashout reply, lazy...

For the sane amongst us, refer to me earlier comment about where the failure might be, and why on multiple brands of tank, but using the same topsealing system. It actually makes sense, unlike this poor swipe attempt...

But, no, its easier to say its me....



Show me where ive ever said i wasnt the only one with the issue...so....

Show me where i ever said id had a hotspot issue...never had one, ever...like ever, so...

Ive related other people i know with the same gear having hotspot issues with the same gear, so please direct your butthurt reply on that angle to them, let me know and ill give you their usernames/emails, i know they'd want to get in on the snide personalised comments on their abilities...theyre amongst the most experienced vapers here that i know personally, so that will be fun for you...

And thats really the point here, i called out the gear, and the gear only

You made it personal

Hows that looking now as a strategy for you? Especially after ive just torn each personal barb at me apart?

Hmm, yup, must be a fanboy, not someone who understands mechanical workings.

I wasn't scouring about you, I was pointed in the direction of a Themis thread BEFORE I had one. And BEFORE I got mine I figured the lone person complaining was blaming the tool instead of his ability to use the tool.
Even without having a Themis in hand I was going to offer some advice but I had seen you returned it before the thread died off (but now you haven't).

I've dealt with customers who don't have the best luck. It's generally not luck, it's not using the product as intended.

My black Themis' top is looser than my stainless one. I know there are tolerances. I can believe someone could get one out of specs. Multiples of the same problem across different product lines is unlikely. That's where you start looking for the constant user interface.
The airflow setting has nothing to do with it. I run with the airflow closed quite a bit because I get better flavor. I could mic it if you want. Nothing is pressing up as it is closed.
If you only noticed a problem when you closed the airflow it is more likely is when you closed your airflow you opened the top slightly. Solution: Close the air all the way and then grab the whole top to move the airflow to where you want it, tightening the top in the process.
The slots for the lugs are tapered pulling the cap down as it closes. If you don't twist the cap on all the way it's not sealed all the way. This is more of an issue with mine with the tight fit than the loose fit when closing it. Or for opening the top when closing the airflow it's an issue of the loose one more than the tight one.
I think it should have some knurling on the top cap and a detent of some sort on the lugs/slots to hold the cap in place when it is closed.
Once I got mine I figured this is why the reviewers are really cranking on the top to make sure it is shut.

You're the one who said a wad of cotton with 1ml of liquid in it is a wicking issue. It is exactly why it isn't the wicking issue causing dry hits right off. It takes a lot of pulses to dry a flooded wick out of the tank.
More wick not causing burnt hits is exactly why I've stopped making micro coils and starting making large diameter coils.
You may have been overheating the low mass mesh causing burnt hits without a wicking issue, but it wasn't because you dried the wick instantly.

I've been through enough tankfuls to know I'm not getting burnt hits. They're not going to come randomly in the future either. If they come on future builds it will be because of a spot of mesh not being in contact with cotton or otherwise not enough cotton to fill the arch, not pulsing the mesh before using or since I use TC it could be because of flooding causing TC to act the same as turning the power up too high with a low mass coil.
This really is a case of it's not me, it's you.
As I recall a lot of people had problems with SubTanks and other new items that ended up being great ecig advances. It wasn't those who threw up their arms and blamed the tools that held the answers to making them work.

You can get any build performing fine when the wick is primed after building, of course its not going to dry hit then..so thats an absurd argument to try and use.....

Wait, are you saying that you weren't priming?

If you're hammering nails and keep on bending them so you blame the nails, pointing out the nails work fine for everyone else so it may be the way you hammer that's the problem is not "making it personal".

 

[stylemessiah]

Just stop dude...just stop...you continue to blame me, i dont now if it makes you feel better about yourself, but please find another way to do that...

I will for the sake of anyone who might read this:

If you only noticed a problem when you closed the airflow it is more likely is when you closed your airflow you opened the top slightly

point to this, because youre misleading people and misrepresenting me:

i had the problem no matter what airflow setting i had, i never said in any post anywhere on the subject that it was only when i closed the airflow even slightly (and ffs, im 47 years old, i know how to close a fricking tank,so please stop calling me an imbecile), i was saying i could see how it might be possible if you closed the airflow to force a failure with that topseal seal and the increase in pressure might explain it

And now im really tired of correcting things where you attribute things to me that i didnt say and didnt happen...

Please, genuinely, enjoy your mesh and your fanboying of the Themis and leave me be....

 

[Myk]

Just stop dude...just stop...you continue to blame me, i dont now if it makes you feel better about yourself, but please find another way to do that...

I will for the sake of anyone who might read this:

If you only noticed a problem when you closed the airflow it is more likely is when you closed your airflow you opened the top slightly

point to this, because youre misleading people and misrepresenting me:

i had the problem no matter what airflow setting i had, i never said in any post anywhere on the subject that it was only when i closed the airflow even slightly (and ffs, im 47 years old, i know how to close a fricking tank,so please stop calling me an imbecile), i was saying i could see how it might be possible if you closed the airflow to force a failure with that topseal seal and the increase in pressure might explain it

And now im really tired of correcting things where you attribute things to me that i didnt say and didnt happen...

Please, genuinely, enjoy your mesh and your fanboying of the Themis and leave me be....

Or you could lose your ego and not think saying you were doing something wrong is calling you an imbecile.

There is really only 2 possibilities you had problems others don't.
1) You got faulty product, twice, between 2 similar products with the same fault.
2) You did something wrong to cause similar products to react the same way.

If there was an inherent problem with top flow air or mesh all others would have it too, not eventually, instantly just like you did.
Just like if there was an inherent problem with Subtanks leaking nobody would've ever figured them out to help those who had problems with leaks.

There is a reason some of us have top flow air mesh working and others don't. It's best to learn from those who have it working not those who don't.

 

[stols001]

I just want to be happy. I realize I'm alive and thus it's an impossibility 100% of the time. I've had my share of arguments on here, and I've usually regretted it. It's really okay for people to disagree, think you are wrong, etc. But when it gets ugly, and folks get upset, well, just take it to PM.

I have found that really works better when I have (inadvertently or not) offended someone, or BEEN offended and whatever, it detracts from the thread when the tone just gets... Unfortunate. I have totally done it, both ways, and really it does work better to not take over the thread with personal assumptions and whatnot.

Best of luck to all on the thread. It's really okay to disagree, and usually best not to sling insults (I think you know who you are).

Just My Opinion As Always.

Anna

 

[Myk]

But when it gets ugly, and folks get upset, well, just take it to PM.

At that point it's just better to use the ignore list.

 

[thomasterrible]

Well first I must say about Breazy sorry I did not catch a 7 at the end and the numbers are so tiny and printed on a black and white zebra background and the 7 was black on black and it was hard to even send close up photos. But so that was my error. Then I checked 2 of my Smoke BBB light editions with their horrid Q code and one was good the other said it was not from Smoke. Anyway...

I got out the two types of cotton I had. I put a drop of juice on each one and the Bacon Prime soaked it right up and the other cotton sat on top.
So I used the Bacon Prime for this. After I put the KA1 mesh piece in the clamps and pulsed it to get the smoke done burning off the impurities I raised the wattage slightly and pulsed it for very short times and got a perfect instant even orange easy.

I cut the mesh down so the top arc of the mesh was at the top of the air holes. This dropped my ohms down to .184. I have tried it out and raised the wattage slowly. It kept getting better with more vapor and I got to 37 watts which is where I usually vape my Smok mesh BBB coils at and it gave off vapor but not as much as the BBB and I bumped it up to 38 and put it down for a while.

I primed the wick before installing it and following the Digiflavor instructions I hit the fire button for 2 seconds then added more juice to to wick.

So I may well wait until morning to finish my testing and slow raising of wattage but I don't know how one can tell if that tray the wick feeds off of is full or not and you can't see the wick of course so I think it will take hitting it enough times and it not going dry to know it has to be working properly.

This is my first time every wicking this RTA or any mesh RTA so I am positive I will have better builds with experience with it but I am also not upset about anything because so far it is working as it should. I hope to get the volume of vapor to increase as well as the flavor. Hopefully in part two of my first try that will happen. I will report what happens even if it is not awesome.

 

[Myk]

Well first I must say about Breazy sorry I did not catch a 7 at the end and the numbers are so tiny and printed on a black and white zebra background and the 7 was black on black and it was hard to even send close up photos. But so that was my error. Then I checked 2 of my Smoke BBB light editions with their horrid Q code and one was good the other said it was not from Smoke. Anyway...

I got out the two types of cotton I had. I put a drop of juice on each one and the Bacon Prime soaked it right up and the other cotton sat on top.
So I used the Bacon Prime for this. After I put the KA1 mesh piece in the clamps and pulsed it to get the smoke done burning off the impurities I raised the wattage slightly and pulsed it for very short times and got a perfect instant even orange easy.

I cut the mesh down so the top arc of the mesh was at the top of the air holes. This dropped my ohms down to .184. I have tried it out and raised the wattage slowly. It kept getting better with more vapor and I got to 37 watts which is where I usually vape my Smok mesh BBB coils at and it gave off vapor but not as much as the BBB and I bumped it up to 38 and put it down for a while.

I primed the wick before installing it and following the Digiflavor instructions I hit the fire button for 2 seconds then added more juice to to wick.

So I may well wait until morning to finish my testing and slow raising of wattage but I don't know how one can tell if that tray the wick feeds off of is full or not and you can't see the wick of course so I think it will take hitting it enough times and it not going dry to know it has to be working properly.

This is my first time every wicking this RTA or any mesh RTA so I am positive I will have better builds with experience with it but I am also not upset about anything because so far it is working as it should. I hope to get the volume of vapor to increase as well as the flavor. Hopefully in part two of my first try that will happen. I will report what happens even if it is not awesome.

I said double check the code didn't I? Good idea using a camera macro, but with my lighting it has to be turned just right or it's black lettering on black squares.

You're talking vapor compared to Smok BBB not while puffing? Were you blowing on it? In TC I don't get much vapor firing like that unless I blow on it.

There are instructions? I assume on a website? Sure nothing in the booklet about wicks.

I can't help with knowing if the feed trays are filling other than to know where they are when everything is screwed together and watch for a bubble in a mirror when you puff. For me a bubble coming up after I puff is too slow, just right is when it rises during the puff.
Part of my priming is to put liquid into the bottom of the trays to make sure it soaks in fast.
TC protects me from having to use burnt taste.

You can tell whether they're feeding by lightly touching the coil with a needle while looking down the drip tip. The light bump makes it show whether the coil is wet. Don't bump it hard enough to push the wick out of the way or bend the coil, it doesn't take much. I think they'd have to be very dry to not pass that test so that's more of a trouble shoot for an already built coil that is falling off.



I lightly clamped a piece of fine sandpaper in my black tank's clamp that was hot in the center, pulled it out. Fixed it right up. I have little doubt that was me tightening the screw too tight building on the road.

I'll say wick/coil killing liquids are bad news for this type of mesh. Granted I'd been through probably 15ml of a chocolate and 15ml of a nougat if not more. Put in one tank of another dark chocolate and it was done producing vapor. Dry burned the coil and it's still pretty well plugged with ash, it will take an ultrasonic to restore the coil. Heating liquid on it now would instantly plug that ash back up.
This mesh may not be long lasting as far as reuse goes.

 

[thomasterrible]

I said double check the code didn't I? Good idea using a camera macro, but with my lighting it has to be turned just right or it's black lettering on black squares.

You're talking vapor compared to Smok BBB not while puffing? Were you blowing on it? In TC I don't get much vapor firing like that unless I blow on it.

There are instructions? I assume on a website? Sure nothing in the booklet about wicks.

I can't help with knowing if the feed trays are filling other than to know where they are when everything is screwed together and watch for a bubble in a mirror when you puff. For me a bubble coming up after I puff is too slow, just right is when it rises during the puff.
Part of my priming is to put liquid into the bottom of the trays to make sure it soaks in fast.
TC protects me from having to use burnt taste.

You can tell whether they're feeding by lightly touching the coil with a needle while looking down the drip tip. The light bump makes it show whether the coil is wet. Don't bump it hard enough to push the wick out of the way or bend the coil, it doesn't take much. I think they'd have to be very dry to not pass that test so that's more of a trouble shoot for an already built coil that is falling off.



I lightly clamped a piece of fine sandpaper in my black tank's clamp that was hot in the center, pulled it out. Fixed it right up. I have little doubt that was me tightening the screw too tight building on the road.

I'll say wick/coil killing liquids are bad news for this type of mesh. Granted I'd been through probably 15ml of a chocolate and 15ml of a nougat if not more. Put in one tank of another dark chocolate and it was done producing vapor. Dry burned the coil and it's still pretty well plugged with ash, it will take an ultrasonic to restore the coil. Heating liquid on it now would instantly plug that ash back up.
This mesh may not be long lasting as far as reuse goes.

WOW that was hard to follow.
I checked 10 times.

As for the BBB comparison I was talking about it put together and using it. I was getting increased vapor production ascwarrage raise taking the small hits. Tried this morning and it had not stayed wet as far as the wick goes. It is a real PITA and I expect BBB TYPE VAPOR production. I habe an email in to Digiflavor. So far I am not overly impressed. I will try the methods Did I gives me but I don't have the time to play with a RTA that doesn't want to work. So will give another chance but will have to stop for a while if it doesn't work soon.
Willl use all my others until I have something working right,

 

[Myk]

WOW that was hard to follow.
I checked 10 times.

As for the BBB comparison I was talking about it put together and using it. I was getting increased vapor production ascwarrage raise taking the small hits. Tried this morning and it had not stayed wet as far as the wick goes. It is a real PITA and I expect BBB TYPE VAPOR production. I habe an email in to Digiflavor. So far I am not overly impressed. I will try the methods Did I gives me but I don't have the time to play with a RTA that doesn't want to work. So will give another chance but will have to stop for a while if it doesn't work soon.
Willl use all my others until I have something working right,

I wouldn't think the wick would get any dryer sitting.
Taking the cap off for a few seconds should put a lot of liquid on the wick. If it doesn't I'd say there's too much wick blocking the feed trays.

I would expect a lot of vapor or burnt hits using wattage. One or the other not neither.
Not only is my perception clouds I can fog up my bathroom without really trying similar to my dual squonker so my clouds are real.
Although I can't compare to BBB.

Before giving up all the way I would try a stamped mesh. Either ripped out of one of your old mesh coils and cleaned up or Vapefly's.

 

[thomasterrible]

I wouldn't think the wick would get any dryer sitting.
Taking the cap off for a few seconds should put a lot of liquid on the wick. If it doesn't I'd say there's too much wick blocking the feed trays.

I would expect a lot of vapor or burnt hits using wattage. One or the other not neither.
Not only is my perception clouds I can fog up my bathroom without really trying similar to my dual squonker so my clouds are real.
Although I can't compare to BBB.

Before giving up all the way I would try a stamped mesh. Either ripped out of one of your old mesh coils and cleaned up or Vapefly's.

Which cap? The top fill? The bottom would spill out liquid.

I tried to follow closely an online example. The wick under the mesh seemed to have good contact and I expected it to swell a tiny bit once it soaked up juice.
It is possible that all my little. Hits were from my primed coil and I thought letting it sit overnight would help not hurt,

When I have primed a BBB mesh coil inside and out and pulled some hard dry Hits with the airflow closed I then start out with lower wattage and slowly ramp it up to near my vape wattage, then usually let it sit again, overnight often and then it is really good with zero issues.

So it has to be the wick not picking up juice. Am sick today but will try to figure it out as I am able.

 

[Myk]

Which cap? The top fill? The bottom would spill out liquid.

I tried to follow closely an online example. The wick under the mesh seemed to have good contact and I expected it to swell a tiny bit once it soaked up juice.
It is possible that all my little. Hits were from my primed coil and I thought letting it sit overnight would help not hurt,

When I have primed a BBB mesh coil inside and out and pulled some hard dry Hits with the airflow closed I then start out with lower wattage and slowly ramp it up to near my vape wattage, then usually let it sit again, overnight often and then it is really good with zero issues.

So it has to be the wick not picking up juice. Am sick today but will try to figure it out as I am able.

Yes the top fill. Liquid won't flow out of the tank unless you set it down with the top off. It will remove the vacuum that keeps it from flooding the chamber. Just for a few seconds.
You could drip onto the coil. If that gets better you know you need less in the trays.

I just had a memory, doesn't a flooded atty mean less vapor? Other than you saying the wick was dry that could fit with less vapor but not burnt.
Since TC isn't controlling your wattage flooding wouldn't mean burnt hits like it did for me.

More people need to make videos building the mesh Themis. (Except I'm not sure how YT rules are for that now.)