New member looking to upgrade to a mech mod

[VCross]

Hey, everybody. Vincent from California dropping in to say hi. Been vaping for almost a year now and I'm finally looking forward to getting my first mech mod. I've been using an eGrip because I love the compact, stealthy design of it but it started leaking like a busted water main so I've been heavily considering either the MiniStick with the 18650 extender or a Kato/Black Oak clone. I've also started getting interested in sub-ohm vaping like using the Atlantis V2 or the Kanger SubTank as I'm not quite comfortable with the idea of building my own just yet.

So the question I have for you guys is: Is it really as simple as slapping a sub-ohm tank on a mech mod and then monitoring the voltage levels of the battery or is there a lot more involved? I've read up some of the newb guides but it doesn't really say too much about pre-built coils/tanks except to make sure there's enough air flow for the tank and battery.

 

[Thrasher]

If you go prebuilt coil, yup its that easy, the lower the ohm coil head the more power, and vapor you will get, just make sure you get good batteries and your set.

To give you an idea of how simple what your asking is look at the ego one -slap the tank on the battery and subohm mech ( sortof)


After using it a bit you get a "feel" for when the battery needs to be changed.

and if you get one of the subohm tanks that also has a rebuildable addon section you can slowly learn what you need to do to start rebuilding them move over to a true rba tank for even more power/vapor and less cost then buying heads.

 

[MrDripper]

Hi Vincent and welcome!
Mech mods are exactly that. Mechanical mods. There are NO electrical components inside apart from the batteries. Having said that, there are really no ways to monitor the wattage or voltage in a mech mod.
Speaking generally of a true mech mod, not a mod like the Sigelei 150 that can be switched to mech and disables the electronics.
This is direct battery to atomizer contact. In a mech mod, you need to be sure of the center pin on the atomizer or tank. The center pin on the dripping atomizer should not be flush. The center pin should rise slightly above the 510 threads. A flush pin could potentially make contact with the firing pin on the mod and cause a short which could cause the battery to explode. It is never a good idea to use a hybrid subohm on a mech mod. So be sure to check your center pin before you buy.
Vape safely, brother.

 

[DaveSignal]

Hi Vincent and welcome!
Mech mods are exactly that. Mechanical mods. There are NO electrical components inside apart from the batteries. Having said that, there are really no ways to monitor the wattage or voltage in a mech mod.
Speaking generally of a true mech mod, not a mod like the Sigelei 150 that can be switched to mech and disables the electronics.
This is direct battery to atomizer contact. In a mech mod, you need to be sure of the center pin on the atomizer or tank. The center pin on the dripping atomizer should not be flush. The center pin should rise slightly above the 510 threads. A flush pin could potentially make contact with the firing pin on the mod and cause a short which could cause the battery to explode. It is never a good idea to use a hybrid subohm on a mech mod. So be sure to check your center pin before you buy.
Vape safely, brother.

You are refering to a mod with hybrid top cap. Most mechs use a standard 510 with a pin. But hybrid setups are something to avoid if using an atty with a pin that compresses or deosn't stick out far. But mech mods in general are easy. They just take a little practice to get the builds exactly right for the preferred vape. If you can build a coil and are aware of battery safety principles, mechs are awesome. I love unregulated and this is all that I use.

 

[MrDripper]

You are refering to a mod with hybrid top cap. Most mechs use a standard 510 with a pin. But hybrid setups are something to avoid if using an atty with a pin that compresses or deosn't stick out far. But mech mods in general are easy. They just take a little practice to get the builds exactly right for the preferred vape. If you can build a coil and are aware of battery safety principles, mechs are awesome. I love unregulated and this is all that I use.

Well, I don't presume to be an expert by any means, but I do know I wish to pass along safety information. The more safe we vapers can be, the better our lifestyle will be.
I was speaking of the center pin on a 510 connection. If you use an atty with a flush center pin on an unregulated mod and the pin on the mod makes contact with the steel of the 510 instead of the copper of the center pin, it will cause a short and could make the battery explode.
I also use unregulated and prefer it that way. I also understand the dangers associated with unregulated mods.
I don't wish to argue at all with anyone, I am still learning as well.
I only wish each and every one of us safety while we enjoy our lifestyle.
Having said that, I wish you well, my friend. Vape safely!

 

[retic1959]

Hey, everybody. Vincent from California dropping in to say hi. Been vaping for almost a year now and I'm finally looking forward to getting my first mech mod. I've been using an eGrip because I love the compact, stealthy design of it but it started leaking like a busted water main so I've been heavily considering either the MiniStick with the 18650 extender or a Kato/Black Oak clone. I've also started getting interested in sub-ohm vaping like using the Atlantis V2 or the Kanger SubTank as I'm not quite comfortable with the idea of building my own just yet.

So the question I have for you guys is: Is it really as simple as slapping a sub-ohm tank on a mech mod and then monitoring the voltage levels of the battery or is there a lot more involved? I've read up some of the newb guides but it doesn't really say too much about pre-built coils/tanks except to make sure there's enough air flow for the tank and battery.

I agree with Thrasher and Dave , it can be that easy . I also think that almost every vaper should have at least one or two mechs in their arsenal as insurance against the coming Vapocalyspe .

 

[Susan~S]

The problem you will run into when using subΩ clearomizers (with stock coils) is that you cannot "fine tune" your vape. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit. And then there may be a problem with under/over powering the stock coils given you have no way to "fine tune" using a mech mod.

Here's an example using the Atlantis new v2 coils. Below are the recommended ranges (per Aspire) for these coils. I have not used these coils so I can't say how accurate these ranges are.

1. 20-30W (0.5Ω coil)
2. 40-50W (1Ω coil)
3. 70-80W (0.3Ω coil)

1. 0.5Ω coil - On a mech mod with a fully charged battery (4.2v) you will be vaping at 35.28 watts. As the battery drains your wattage will go down. At 3.6v (when I normally recharged the battery) you would be vaping at 25.92 watts. You may have to take a few pulls without firing the battery to keep from getting dry hits when the battery is fully charged.

2. 1.0Ω coil - On a mech mod with a fully charged battery (4.2v) you will be vaping at 17.64 watts. As the battery drains your wattage will go down. At 3.6v you would be vaping at 12.96 watts. Pretty dismal performance (underpowered) running this coil on a mech mod given the recommended range of 40-50 watts.

2. 0.3Ω coil - On a mech mod with a fully charged battery (4.2v) you will be vaping at 58.8 watts. As the battery drains your wattage will go down. At 3.6v you would be vaping at 43.2 watts. Again, sub-par performance (underpowered) running this coil on a mech mod given the optimal range of 70-80 watts.

In conclusion, I wouldn't run these coils on a mech mod. I would get much better performance running these on a high vv/vw regulated mod.

So the question I have for you guys is: Is it really as simple as slapping a sub-ohm tank on a mech mod and then monitoring the voltage levels of the battery or is there a lot more involved?

Knowledge of battery safety, Ohm's Law and Amps are all important when using a mech mod even with clearomizers using stock coils. The CDR (continuous discharge rating) of your battery needs to be high enough (with headroom) to support the ohms of your stock coil .

I highly recommend you spend some time with @Baditude (one of our resident battery/safety experts) and visit his blogs. Baditude's Blog - Table of Contents: The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:

BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[Robert Dean]

Hey, everybody. Vincent from California dropping in to say hi. Been vaping for almost a year now and I'm finally looking forward to getting my first mech mod. I've been using an eGrip because I love the compact, stealthy design of it but it started leaking like a busted water main so I've been heavily considering either the MiniStick with the 18650 extender or a Kato/Black Oak clone. I've also started getting interested in sub-ohm vaping like using the Atlantis V2 or the Kanger SubTank as I'm not quite comfortable with the idea of building my own just yet.

So the question I have for you guys is: Is it really as simple as slapping a sub-ohm tank on a mech mod and then monitoring the voltage levels of the battery or is there a lot more involved? I've read up some of the newb guides but it doesn't really say too much about pre-built coils/tanks except to make sure there's enough air flow for the tank and battery.

Simple as that when you use a prebuilt coil head!
I would suggest a Subtank for the fact that if you want to get into building, you can and do so without having to learn a whole new device. good luck my friend!

Also, when using any kind of tank, make sure you do not have a "Hybrid TopCap" mod. Just ask your local B&M or ask on here. We will take care of you!

 

[VCross]

Thanks a lot guys. You've all had a lot of really good info for me and I feel a lot more confident in getting a new mod. I appreciate all the feedback. I'll definitely be looking into getting a regulated mod and as I get more comfortable building my own coils I'll probably move into a mech.

 

[edyle]

Thanks a lot guys. You've all had a lot of really good info for me and I feel a lot more confident in getting a new mod. I appreciate all the feedback. I'll definitely be looking into getting a regulated mod and as I get more comfortable building my own coils I'll probably move into a mech.

I'd advise any vaper with a year's experience to get a mech mod for backup purposes, but it's not what I would call an 'upgrade'.
The important thing for you would be to get a replaceable battery mod where you replace 18650 batteries; you'll likely need a charger also, unless it's one of the vapour sharks for example which can charge on board like a cellphone