What's up guys, what I'm lookin for here is explained in the title. What rda/RBAs are best for the istick 20w. I have a kanger mini protank 3, and the new dual coil atomizers are a ..... to rebuild. My ohms keep fluctuating and its really annoying. I'm somewhat of a novice, yet I've learned quickly about ohms and voltage/wattage settings and wrapping coils has come pretty easy to me. I'm not ready to start sub-ohming yet I want to gain a little more experience before I get into that category. So what do you guys suggest? I want to build coils above 1.3 ohms.
New member, want to know what RDA/RBAs are compatible/best for eleaf istick 20w
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Judging by how fondly speak people about it, and the fact you can wrap your own coils already, why not consider a Kanger Subtank mini and just use the RBA section (built to 1.3+) and/or the 1.2 ohm OCC heads that are available (comes with one .5ohm OCC, and one 1.2ohm OCC).
You need to keep your resistance above 1 ohm.
Any single coil RTA that you like will work fine.
As for RDAs, the Magma is nice single coil. So is the Veritas. I'm an RTA person so I know a lot more about them. Hopefully someone else can help
Any single coil RTA that you like will work fine.
As for RDAs, the Magma is nice single coil. So is the Veritas. I'm an RTA person so I know a lot more about them. Hopefully someone else can help
I'd also recommend the Kanger Subtank Mini.
Buy a pack of Kanger 1.2 ohm Organic Cotton Coil heads.
Wait till one of your coils die, take it apart, see how it works, try to rebuild one yourself, discover how easy it is, get the rebuildable dripping atomiser (RDA) section that also comes with the Kanger Subtank Mini, start making your own coils. YouTube is your friend
And the journey begins.................
Buy a pack of Kanger 1.2 ohm Organic Cotton Coil heads.
Wait till one of your coils die, take it apart, see how it works, try to rebuild one yourself, discover how easy it is, get the rebuildable dripping atomiser (RDA) section that also comes with the Kanger Subtank Mini, start making your own coils. YouTube is your friend
And the journey begins.................
Before I upgraded to the MVP 3.0 I was using the istick 20w. Much like everyone else in the thread, I'd say the subtank mini is a great tank. The istick can't subohm, so as long as you build above 1 ohm, you'll be golden. My only cons to the OCC coils are the cost of replacement, and the juice flavor is a bit muted, but if you use the RTA desk, those issues are resolved.
If you are looking for something less pricey than the subtank, I'd recommend an orchid RTA. There's currently six versions of it and you can find them for about 15 bucks.
Welcome to the world of vaping.
If you are looking for something less pricey than the subtank, I'd recommend an orchid RTA. There's currently six versions of it and you can find them for about 15 bucks.
Welcome to the world of vaping.
Thanks for the advice guys. Now what about mech mods.. I've done some research and want to get into the advanced level of vaping. What are some good, affordable mods as well as quality batteries I can purchase. I'm looking for a well rounded mod that produces good flavor and clouds... *clouds bro clouds*
It's not so much the tank, as the coil in the tank that matters.
For the istick20, 30 gauge and 28 gauge should be good.
1 ohm 28 gauge, or 2 ohm 30 gauge.
Better to use your regulated mod for your first builds.
mech mods do not give you clouds; power gives you clouds.
popular mechs include, nemesis, stingray;
I like chiyou and astro(telescopic) for parts availability and m21x1 threading.
a lot of mechs are m20x1 threaded and I believe the few toppers (rta/rda) designed with hybrid threading are m20x1 threaded.
SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT
With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.
A high vv/vw mod is a lot more versatile than a mechanical mod (not to mention safer, less upkeep, etc). The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.
With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.
Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features
I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery/safety experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.
Baditudes Blogs. The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:
BATTERIES
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW
Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY
Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.
A high vv/vw mod is a lot more versatile than a mechanical mod (not to mention safer, less upkeep, etc). The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.
With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.
Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features
I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery/safety experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.
Baditudes Blogs. The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:
BATTERIES
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW
Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY
Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
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I love my Veritas! Deep well and as long as you don't lay it air hole down it won't leak. I also think it has better vapor/flavor production than similar tanks like the Magma.
As far as a mech mod, I just purchased a smpl $40 at my local vape shop. Its a nice size, has a bottom fire button that sits recessed and has a nice amount of give. It's also pretty lol.
As far as a mech mod, I just purchased a smpl $40 at my local vape shop. Its a nice size, has a bottom fire button that sits recessed and has a nice amount of give. It's also pretty lol.
Do you understand the safety problem with the lack of center pin on the SMPL mod and the requirement for protruding centerpin on the topper so as not to go boom?
I would highly recommend a regulated vw/vv device while you are still learning. Get an iStick 50w if you want to Sub ohm, or if you stay above 1.0 ohms have a battery life in excess of 3 days depending if you chain vape or not.
The Freakshow mini and the Vertex V2 are nice on the iStick 20w, I have a 1.1 ohm build in them with 26 gauge kanthal and its nice between 16-20w and both very stealthy.
The Marquis is an excellent atty for flavour in single or dual coil mode and it is basically leak proof. RDA
The Lemo 2 and Goliath tanks seem to be very popular and are very new on the market. RTA
The Freakshow mini and the Vertex V2 are nice on the iStick 20w, I have a 1.1 ohm build in them with 26 gauge kanthal and its nice between 16-20w and both very stealthy.
The Marquis is an excellent atty for flavour in single or dual coil mode and it is basically leak proof. RDA
The Lemo 2 and Goliath tanks seem to be very popular and are very new on the market. RTA
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i think a 30w istick will be better. u can sub ohm on sub tanks and should be enough for some rda.
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