New member with a DNA40

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cauqazn

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Jan 4, 2015
7
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TX
** My problem with DNA 40 TC **

Still having some weird bugs with my DNA40. I thought the bad wire contact was the issue here, but what I'm experiencing now is that everytime I stop vaping for a while (device goes into sleep), and try and vape again on the same RDA I had connected (w/o removing the RDA previously), the ohms on the display reads lower than initially and I hit TP again very quickly.

When this happens, I unscrew the RDA off, screw it back on, and set is a "new coil", it vapes great again. I'm baffled... I don't want to have to keep doing this everytime I take a vape break...

** OP **

Hey guys, been a lurker for some time. Been vaping for about 2 years now on eGo pens.
Finally bought myself a DNA40 board and now own my very first boxmod (Hana Clone enclosure).

Read for hours yesterday and couldn't figure out why I was constantly hitting temp protection immediately after firing.
Turns out Ni200 wire is super fragile and I was making poor connection in my RDA posts. Learned to fold the wire ends over each other and now she's vaping like a dream.

Gear I own:
3 or so eGo batteries, VV, non-VV.
Kanger Aerotank v1
Kanger Aerotank Mini
Aspire Nautilus

DNA40 Hana clone DIY'd box
Veritas clone RDA
Mutation X v2 RDA

Gear on the way to me:
Aspire Atlantis tank

Glad to be a part of this community now :)
 
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peraspera

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Sep 2, 2012
2,808
6,184
midwest
Welcome to ECF and big congrats on building your first box!

If you want to use temperature protection for your Nautilus tank without having to build them Vapor Shark has some Ni200 heads available. Nautilus Temperature Sensing Coil (5 Pack). Also, they are having some Ni200 heads done for the Atlantis but didn't give an ETA for those.
 

DaniB

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ECF Veteran
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Apr 10, 2009
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Welcome Cauqazn !

Screen Shot 2014-12-27 at 9.36.08 AM.jpg
 

cauqazn

Full Member
Jan 4, 2015
7
0
TX
Thanks for the welcome everyone. I'll probably be picking up some ni200 coil heads for my aspire products soon.

Still having some weird bugs with my DNA40. I thought the bad wire contact was the issue here, but what I'm experiencing now is that everytime I stop vaping for a while (device goes into sleep), and try and vape again on the same RDA I had connected (w/o removing the RDA previously), the ohms on the display reads lower than initially and I hit TP again very quickly.

When this happens, I unscrew the RDA off, screw it back on, and set is a "new coil", it vapes great again. I'm baffled... I don't want to have to keep doing this everytime I take a vape break...
 

peraspera

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 2, 2012
2,808
6,184
midwest
There is something likely amiss in your 510 connection and/or build that causes the issue you are seeing. In order to provide accurate temperatures the DNA40 chip is necessarily picky about rock-solid connections in toppers and builds.

Avoid toppers with spring-loaded 510 connections. Build with spaced coils rather than touching ones. Use screws rather than post holes to make connections wherever possible.

Both the coil and chip need to be at room temperature to establish a useful baseline reading. After that the DNA40 chip will continue in refinement mode by utilizing data about how the coil is heating and cooling.

In this Vapour Trails/Haze Hour's Dec. 4 interview with Evolv's Brandon he discusses quite a bit about builds starting at 0:53:31. Also, there is a lot of information about Ni200 builds in this thread, DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds.
 

WeirdWillie

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 4, 2014
895
1,918
Houston, Texas
There is something likely amiss in your 510 connection and/or build that causes the issue you are seeing. In order to provide accurate temperatures the DNA40 chip is necessarily picky about rock-solid connections in toppers and builds.

Avoid toppers with spring-loaded 510 connections. Build with spaced coils rather than touching ones. Use screws rather than post holes to make connections wherever possible.

Both the coil and chip need to be at room temperature to establish a useful baseline reading. After that the DNA40 chip will continue in refinement mode by utilizing data about how the coil is heating and cooling.

In this Vapour Trails/Haze Hour's Dec. 4 interview with Evolv's Brandon he discusses quite a bit about builds starting at 0:53:31. Also, there is a lot of information about Ni200 builds in this thread, DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds.
I ageree, connections, connections, connections
If you have any, low resistence or continous new coil messages or wandering resistances you have poor connections (510 or coil) and/or shorted coils.
 

WeirdWillie

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 4, 2014
895
1,918
Houston, Texas
There is something likely amiss in your 510 connection and/or build that causes the issue you are seeing. In order to provide accurate temperatures the DNA40 chip is necessarily picky about rock-solid connections in toppers and builds.

Avoid toppers with spring-loaded 510 connections. Build with spaced coils rather than touching ones. Use screws rather than post holes to make connections wherever possible.

Both the coil and chip need to be at room temperature to establish a useful baseline reading. After that the DNA40 chip will continue in refinement mode by utilizing data about how the coil is heating and cooling.

In this Vapour Trails/Haze Hour's Dec. 4 interview with Evolv's Brandon he discusses quite a bit about builds starting at 0:53:31. Also, there is a lot of information about Ni200 builds in this thread, DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds.
I ageree, connections, connections, connections
If you have any, low resistence or continous new coil messages or wandering resistances you have poor connections (510 or coil) and/or shorted coils.
 

cauqazn

Full Member
Jan 4, 2015
7
0
TX
I ageree, connections, connections, connections
If you have any, low resistence or continous new coil messages or wandering resistances you have poor connections (510 or coil) and/or shorted coils.

I am positive my connections are good and 510 is good and also have solid grounding. I read about 50 pages of that Ni200 thread and people experiencing those constant voltage to temp mode changing and fluctuations in resistance readings are usually the ones with bad 510 or bad coil connections -- I don't have that problem.

My problem is that with all of the coils I've built so far, varying IDs of 3/32, up to 5/32, ohms from 0.11 to .20+, always spaced evenly, at 400-420F, I hit TP almost instantaneously after taking a vape. If I pull the atty off right after this happens, screw it on, set as "New Coil", it vapes fine. Which makes sense to me now, because the coil is hot and now it's baselining "cold" temp at a actual higher temp, so the chip is falsely reporting temp and allowing me to go much higher than my 410F setting (even though the chip is only "seeing" 410F on the "new baseline").

I think my problem is that I've just had the temp setting too low for the coil I'm running. I am a noob so I'm not sure exactly what wattage/temp I should be set at with what ohm coil, but when I was hitting TP constantly I had it on 410F.

I built another coil last night, set temp to 500F and vaping anywhere from 20-30w right now and the performance is great.
The coil is 28ga ni200 around 3/32 bit. Chip reads 0.14ohm. I now always fold over the legs going into the post holes to ensure a better (if not perfect) connection. Then again, I'm not sure if 500F is just too hot and its "performing better" now just because it's allowing the coil to get hotter. Again... a noobie to all of this.

Probably going to head to the hardware store tomorrow and pick up some screws that will fit my RDA and just forget about using post-holes.
 
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