New mod purchase UDT V6

[JKVaper]

Bought this mod today, does not look very popular here in the US. Its a UDT V6 or also to Germany as a Nanus Max(http://www.prosteamer.de/store/Mods-Akkutraeger/Nanus-Serie/Nanus-Max::346.html). This thing feels SOLID. It is made of stainless steel. I own a chrome YJ Lavatube and a Telescope that are both fingerprint magnets, this does not collect fingerprints at all. This is my second mechanical mod, my other one being a black chrome smoktech telescope. This thing just seems to hit harder than my telescope with the exact same battery (18650) at the same charge. May have to do with the metals used? It is not completely mechanical, the switch is electrical and feels clicky and has wires (as does the Tele for that matter). It does have a mechanical safety off control on the bottom of it which unscrews (feels very smooth) and disables the contact to the battery. It's also much heavier (62gm more compared to the telescope) weighing 191gm with just the mod and battery inside. It feels very solid while holding it. Curious to know if there is anyone else out there that has used this mod as I can not find much info/reviews on it. Got it for what I feel so far a fair price and love it so far. Here's some pics.

with a DID RBA:

with a Vivi Nova:

the 510 connection:

I've found that as long as I use the right ohm carts that VV is not that important to me yet, until I purchase a Provari. Lavatube is used as my backup, but volts don't feel right (PWM).

Any opinions or others who use this mod?

 

[kiwivap]

I've never seen one before. Love the banding effect on the tube.

 

[JKVaper]

I've never seen one before. Love the banding effect on the tube.

The banding helps a lot with grip and feels good in the hand. The inside of the tube is not banded and is straight. Stainless steel tube is thick, heavy duty. Seems very well machined. It would make a great device to use a 18500 with a Kick. There is an extension for use with 18650 and a Kick (http://www.prosteamer.de/store/Mods-Akkutraeger/Nanus-Serie/Nanus-Max-Extension::347.html).

 

[JKVaper]

An update to my post of my Nanus Max. I still agree with how GREAT it feels in the hands, very solid and made completly out of stainless steel. The 510 connection is the best I've seen in a chinese mod which makes me wonder if the actual machining of it was done somewhere else. There's been a couple times where the firing felt wonky so I did get curious with the Nanus and took it apart because I knew the switch was not mechanical. The switch I discovered it used was what is called a tactile switch, which most chinese knockoffs use. I am sure the Chinese manufacturers are aware of this but to them $ are the bottom line and they know how gullible some of us americans are. Tactile switches work but they are far inferior as most are only rated @ 50mA....never seen one rated over 500mA (1/2 A). This is not good for mods of this type, they will work but get weak and fail over time and give you less amps to the atty than what you think you are getting - it becomes part of the resistance in the circuit.
This is what the tactile switches look like.

So I did a lot of hunting for a switch that could replace it. Not easy finding a switch that is small enough to fit that can handle at least 3A. But I did find something better, A lever switch that with a little modification of the switch (removing lever) and how the switch is mounted inside the Nanus works VERY well.
A lever switch looks like....

Link to where I bought it - FRYS.com.|.PHILMORE

The new switch ratings are 16A @ 125v, way more than is necessary. The new switch has a nice clicky feel to it. After replacing the switch, rewiring, and soldering it seems to produce a better vape. No visual modification to the Nanus was necessary. Here's a pic of it after the modification with the 16A switch........

One of the new things that pleases me with this nanus mod is how easy it is to modify. I have a lot of experience in electrical engineering and experience in soldering, just saying because if you do try to take on a task like this PLEASE be very careful on how you do it, prevent possibilities of shorts, and do your research. I don't want to see any battery explosions and we all have a responsibility to the vaping community to play it safe. Seeing how sometimes things are pushed beyond their limits when they fail there should be an explanation as to why. Chinese knockoffs are very guilty of this time and time again, which is why a lot of them fail.

When I do get a truly mechanical mod I will get what I pay for. But for now this mod out of the 4 I currently own has become my favorite.

 

[440BB]

How did the tubes come apart so you could get to the switch? I have a V5 and love it, but it looks like a press fitting and I don't know if I should try to remove the top cap or the bottom tube, should I ever need to do this upgrade. Thanks!

 

[JKVaper]

How did the tubes come apart so you could get to the switch? I have a V5 and love it, but it looks like a press fitting and I don't know if I should try to remove the top cap or the bottom tube, should I ever need to do this upgrade. Thanks!

Not sure if the v5 is same as v6, but you do not take apart the press fitting. On the inside of top part of tube (where the spring battery contact is) the spring is attached to the plastic. That plastic piece unscrews off the same threads the bottom tube piece does. This gives you access to the switch and other internals. You may have to cut/remove wire that is connected to the spring. This requires you to have a small soldering iron and experience soldering to accomplish. If you change out the wiring make sure you remove center post of 510 connection before soldering so as to not damage rubber insulator of the 510 connection. It also took a little bit of dremel work to the internal plastic pieces to make it accompany the new switch, you will understand what I mean when you see them.

 

[AnsonJames]

An update to my post of my Nanus Max. I still agree with how GREAT it feels in the hands, very solid and made completly out of stainless steel. The 510 connection is the best I've seen in a chinese mod which makes me wonder if the actual machining of it was done somewhere else. There's been a couple times where the firing felt wonky so I did get curious with the Nanus and took it apart because I knew the switch was not mechanical. The switch I discovered it used was what is called a tactile switch, which most chinese knockoffs use. I am sure the Chinese manufacturers are aware of this but to them $ are the bottom line and they know how gullible some of us americans are. Tactile switches work but they are far inferior as most are only rated @ 50mA....never seen one rated over 500mA (1/2 A). They will work but get weak and fail over time and give you less amps to the atty than what you think you are getting - it becomes part of the resistance in the circuit.
This is what the tactile switches look like.

So I did a lot of hunting for a switch that could replace it. Not easy finding a switch that is small enough to fit that can handle at least 3A. But I did find something better, A lever switch that with a little modification of the switch (removing lever) and how the switch is mounted inside the Nanus works VERY well.
A lever switch looks like....

Link to where I bought it - FRYS.com.|.PHILMORE

The new switch ratings are 16A @ 125v, way more than is necessary. The new switch has a nice clicky feel to it. After replacing the switch, rewiring, and soldering it seems to produce a better vape. No visual modification to the Nanus was necessary. Here's a pic of it after the modification with the 16A switch........

One of the new things that pleases me with this nanus mod is how easy it is to modify. I have a lot of experience in electrical engineering and experience in soldering, just saying because if you do try to take on a task like this PLEASE be very careful on how you do it, prevent possibilities of shorts, and do your research. I don't want to see any battery explosions and we all have a responsibility to the vaping community to play it safe. Seeing how sometimes things are pushed beyond their limits when they fail there should be an explanation as to why. Chinese knockoffs are very guilty of this time and time again, which is why a lot of them fail.

When I do get a truly mechanical mod I will get what I pay for. But for now this mod out of the 4 I currently own has become my favorite.

Those will be the same button from the Zmax.
I think Tactile switches used in conjunction with a Mosfet would be okay.

 

[JKVaper]

Those will be the same button from the Zmax.
I think Tactile switches used in conjunction with a Mosfet would be okay.

Yes, you are correct. In conjuction with a mosfet a tactile switch is fine. It's a small voltage controlling a larger one through electronic components.

But in some 'not so mechanical mods' such as this it is not the case. I was aware of this when I bought this device but I liked the look and feel of it so much I knew that this may be a modification that I may have had to make eventually, doing so before it even failed. I could only imagine what would of happened using a kick and bumping it up to 9-12 watts, which now is not a concern. Plus adding a Kick to it will offer some added protection. Through my experience I knew what I was buying when I bought it. Paid $50 for it plus cost of new switch ($2) plus my time, cheap for knowing what quality has been put into it. In the end very happy with it.

 

[sgenn99]

I just got a UDT v6 from someone on the classifieds here. It is beautiful, and it is my first mechanical mod. I can't get any info on it, and I'm not sure what to do with it. I tried a few cartos on it, and it seems to vape only with low res. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. It sure is pretty!

 

[JKVaper]

I just got a UDT v6 from someone on the classifieds here. It is beautiful, and it is my first mechanical mod. I can't get any info on it, and I'm not sure what to do with it. I tried a few cartos on it, and it seems to vape only with low res. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. It sure is pretty!

It should work with anything, but low res would be preferable for most on non VV mods IMHO. If you have trouble getting a cart to work properly make sure it is coming in proper contact with the 510 connection .....it can be picky with this but an easy workaround and mostly due to the cart used. The center pin on the cart should be even or slightly lower than the 510 threading on the cart for proper function.

I use mainly Vivi Novas and rebuildables on mine with no issues other than one where I had to adjust the center pin a little.

It is pretty indeed, visually and quality machining. It needs help on the electrical aspects of it, my main reasoning for this thread. I've only been vaping for almost 4 months now so haven't yet purchased any other higher end mods yet (such as a Provari ) but I have a YJ Lavatube, Smok Telescope, home built wooden box mod, and a couple eGo twists ...this is by far the best quality feel of them all.

 

[sgenn99]

i'm running a low res carto tank on it, and it is vaping beautifully, but i really do miss the variable voltage options i'm so used to with my other toys (the twist, the lava tube, the vmax, and as soon as it comes in the mail, my pro vari mini...yes, i DO have a problem!).

i really like it, especially the weight of it and the sturdiness. it's built very well. it's a nice piece to have around, but i doubt it will ever be my "go to" vapor device, as i do like the freedom to adjust the voltage, even though i am still getting used to that. i'm too new to know for sure, but i find in the few days that i've had it, the 1.5-2.0 range seems to be what makes it work best.

now, when i do get that provari, i think i'll need higher res (2.5-3.0) cartos for my tanks. i'm not interested in the whole dripping thing-seems like too much work. plus, i'm always running around in the car, and the convenience of a tank, for me at least, is the way to go.

thanks for the info-i haven't been able to find much online in the ways of operating instructions-i guess there isn't much to it, though.

It should work with anything, but low res would be preferable for most on non VV mods IMHO. If you have trouble getting a cart to work properly make sure it is coming in proper contact with the 510 connection .....it can be picky with this but an easy workaround and mostly due to the cart used. The center pin on the cart should be even or slightly lower than the 510 threading on the cart for proper function.

I use mainly Vivi Novas and rebuildables on mine with no issues other than one where I had to adjust the center pin a little.

It is pretty indeed, visually and quality machining. It needs help on the electrical aspects of it, my main reasoning for this thread. I've only been vaping for almost 4 months now so haven't yet purchased any other higher end mods yet (such as a Provari ) but I have a YJ Lavatube, Smok Telescope, home built wooden box mod, and a couple eGo twists ...this is by far the best quality feel of them all.

 

[JKVaper]

1.5-2 is mainly what I use (mostly 1.8 Vivi Nova / mini Nova's) and is the best range for most all non VV devices. Makes for a near 8 watt vape. I currently use a YJ lava tube for my VV device (backup), but the voltages are just to wonky for my liking.

2 things I want to get:

A kick for this mod using 18500 batts.
And a Provari (jealous ) - congrats on the Provari purchase !

 

[deezdrama]

looks very nice, Whats that tank in the first pic?

Do you have any pics of it with an aga-t tank on it?

I just grabbed one of these mods in a coop recentlly along with an aga-t tank and igo-l dripper tank. The goods should be here this week or next. I got a kick coming that i may throw in the v6.

Im kind of bummed- i was under the impression that each individual band was threaded and you could remove/add bands to accomidate all types of battery/kick setups. I guess thats not the case....oh-well, still a fine looking mod and got mine for $32 although im not looking foward to replacing the switch.

Ill probably just run mine with an 18500/kick and the igo-l drip tank or aga-t geni

 

[JKVaper]

The first pic is with a DID atomizer @1.8ohm.

have not got a kick yet, but if/when you do just realize that the positive has to be the top connection of the mod since the side spring of the kick HAS to be ground (the spring on kick that contacts the body). The top connection has a spring on this mod and on n-haler's web site it state not recommended positive terminal to use a spring contact, although I think it will be fine as how the spring is designed. If you reverse the battery on the kick there's a good chance you can burn out the kick, so just be cautious as to how you install it. Just make sure the neg of battery is on bottom of mod and kick is on top where the spring is.

I still use this mod daily, love it, and it is very solid. The stainless steel is just like a stainless utensil. I use this at work daily for over a month now, and not a scratch on it. The new switch I've replaced is still very solid as well. The original switch may be ok for a while.
.

 

[JKVaper]

Update: Kick and 2 18500's ordered today. Will post results in a few days.

Here's a video showing a kick installed in this mod, as well as using an extension using a 18650 battery. Not in english, german, but shows the details.

 

[JKVaper]

Kick received and is working flawlessly for 2 days now. Running at 8.5-9 watts, getting about 6-8 hours between battery changes. Using 18500 1100mah IMR batteries. Under 100$ invested for a VW device that is as solid I could ask for, should hold me off on any other mods for a while till all the newer tech gets tested and issues leveled out.

newest pic.....

 

[WillyB]

The first pic is with a DID atomizer @1.8ohm.

What atty is this: