• Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers

    Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?

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NEW RoyalSmokers C-E2 R4 Review, Tips, Info, Help, Video

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BanjoMan

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I don't know about you, but I can tell a difference in performance if there is the slightest air leak around the tip.

Me too. My first attempt with the br mod had an air leak at the top and it didn't perform nearly as well as #2. I'm also finding that the XL's work better for me because I can get more of it up into the bottle. It not only holds more juice but the wicks lay down better.

Edit: My next attempt will be an 808D XL for my Little Chuck (901/808D adapter). I have a ton of 18350 batteries (1200mAh) lying around that haven't seen use for months.
 
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CloudBurst

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Ok Guys, I think I may have solved the leaking and tip on side problem! This is my latest try, it's basically the same except for the piece of the cartridge tube that was cut off to begin with. When I put the assenbly into the bottle, I put the filler cap on it as it comes in the package. Then slid the small piece of tube tyhrough the grommet and placed it onto the filler cap over the coil and ceramic pot. So basically it's sealed exactly the way it comes in the package. I'm still testing it but it is not flooding the cup when it's laying on it's side. Tastes and vapes the same as it did without the tube. This is the R3.5 junk that I was unable to use otherwise.

What do you think?

Need a better pic, hold on! LOL
 
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br5495

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Here's one just for you John. I had an old bottle with the bottom cut off that I experimented with a few weeks ago. I cut it off some more and made a v1John bottle out of it. It stretches over the bottom of the main bottle and fits very nicely.

A white rubber mouthpiece fits in the neck, so I didn't try anything else. The bottom of the main bottle has a 3/16" hole in it, so it now acts as a baffle to reduce the chance of juice getting in the mouthpiece if the mod is carelessly laid on its side.

vJohn.jpg


Now for the bad news. The XL in this bottle does not wick well and I don't know why. The wick bows kept flaring out and sticking to the side of the bottle, and I thought that was maybe the cause. I loosely tied a piece of another wick around the bows to keep that from happening, but it did not not completely fix things. It can be used okay for light vaping, but it won't take heavy back to back vaping. So, it looks like the bottle mod is not a fix all for everything, dammit.
 

br5495

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Ok Guys, I think I may have solved the leaking and tip on side problem! This is my latest try, it's basically the same except for the piece of the cartridge tube that was cut off to begin with. When I put the assenbly into the bottle, I put the filler cap on it as it comes in the package. Then slid the small piece of tube tyhrough the grommet and placed it onto the filler cap over the coil and ceramic pot. So basically it's sealed exactly the way it comes in the package. I'm still testing it but it is not flooding the cup when it's laying on it's side. Tastes and vapes the same as it did without the tube. This is the R3.5 junk that I was unable to use otherwise.

What do you think?

Need a better pic, hold on! LOL

This is more or less of what I have in mind for making a revision for my brass filler tip. However, if the usual amount of vapor gets into the bottle, a certain amount of leakage would have to be coming from somewhere.
 

nickf41680

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Ok Guys, I think I may have solved the leaking and tip on side problem! This is my latest try, it's basically the same except for the piece of the cartridge tube that was cut off to begin with. When I put the assenbly into the bottle, I put the filler cap on it as it comes in the package. Then slid the small piece of tube tyhrough the grommet and placed it onto the filler cap over the coil and ceramic pot. So basically it's sealed exactly the way it comes in the package. I'm still testing it but it is not flooding the cup when it's laying on it's side. Tastes and vapes the same as it did without the tube. This is the R3.5 junk that I was unable to use otherwise.

What do you think?

Need a better pic, hold on! LOL

I had done something similar but was thinking something a little tighter should fit over the cup to avoid flooding.... U said. Uses the piece of Cut off carto correct?
 

Quick1

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The XL in this bottle does not wick well and I don't know why. The wick bows kept flaring out and sticking to the side of the bottle, and I thought that was maybe the cause. I loosely tied a piece of another wick around the bows to keep that from happening, but it did not not completely fix things. It can be used okay for light vaping, but it won't take heavy back to back vaping. So, it looks like the bottle mod is not a fix all for everything, dammit.

I'm pretty sure the bottle mod distracted the wicks :)
 

br5495

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I'm pretty sure the bottle mod distracted the wicks :)

I'm pretty sure that it did not, because I now know what was wrong. I goofed up and was just about to make a post telling why. It's something that most E2 users should be aware of. I have some other things going on right now, so it will probably be a while before I get it up.
 

zoiDman

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    I think what makes the “Bottle Mod” work so well is the same thing that causes an E2 carto not to work sometimes. Surface Tension of the e-Juice in the juice reserve area.

    When I look at the Bottle Mod, I see no restrictions on the juice to freely flow to the cup slots. So at this point, the wick can work to it’s maximum efficiency. Even if the wick has become flattened, because it is single strands, the e-Juice can slosh around in the area where the wick enters the cup via the slot.

    But in an E2 carto, there is a very small gap between the cup and the inside of the carto body. This small gap actually inhibits the liquid flow of the e-Juice from making contact with the outside of the cup at the slots. To see this, half fill an E2 carto with 50% VG e-Juices and lay it on its side with no seals. The juice doesn’t flow out of the carto. The surface tension of the juice is enough to stop it from flowing around the cup and out of the carto.

    So the amount of juice that can be vaporized by the coil for any given hit is diminished to the amount of juice Inside the cup on the wick. The wick inside the cup runs dry, the coil wire cannot exchange heat energy fast enough to produce vapor, the coils wire gets too hot and burn gunk / juice causing a bad taste. The end result is members search the ECF and YouTube to figure out how to do a PTB mod and save their precious cartos.

    This is what first gave me the idea of using a filler medium to bring more juice, thru capillary action, to the slot area. The PTB works because it assists the e-juice in reaching cup slot area. The smooth walls inside the carto actually work against the natural ability for a fluid to “climb”.

    Unfortunately, the design parameters of the E2 seem to be that the carto O.D. was the same size atty. This left a very small gap between the cup and the I.D. of the carto. To make thing worse, a cup seal was needed to keep the cup from flopping around.

    What is most promising is that Bottle Mod doesn’t seem to have many downsides verses benefits. Being able to see the amount of juice is a huge benefit. Refilling can also be done a number of different ways depending on the configuration of the bottle and the mouth piece.

    BTW – How are members removing the carto body from the inner workings of the cart so cleanly? My attempts have left the connector somewhat mangled.
     
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    BanjoMan

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    z-man I can't speak for everybody, but I use a mini-pipe cutter. I have an old shorted out 510 mega battery that I screw onto the carto and use that to help turn the carto in the cutter. Once I get a groove started I just slowly screw-in the cutting wheel until it cuts through (takes about 3-5 minutes).

    Was that what you were asking?

    Edit: I agree with what you said about wick restriction. I also think the vapor trapped in the bottle helps as well - sort of a "hot house" effect. I'm afraid any attempts to "seal" the cup so it can be laid on its' side are just going to take us back where we started. I like this as-is for a desktop mod.
     
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    zoiDman

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    z-man I can't speak for everybody, but I use a mini-pipe cutter. I have an old shorted out 510 mega battery that I screw onto the carto and use that to help turn the carto in the cutter. Once I get a groove started I just slowly screw-in the cutting wheel until it cuts through (takes about 3-5 minutes).

    Was that what you were asking?

    Edit: I agree with what you said about wick restriction. I also think the vapor trapped in the bottle helps as well - sort of a "hot house" effect. I'm afraid any attempts to "seal" the cup so it can be laid on its' side are just going to take us back where we started. I like this as-is for a desktop mod.

    A might have to buy a little "imp" pipe cutter a try it. I have 15 unusable E2 cartos with dented threads sitting in a box. Should be able to perfect a trechnique on them.

    I think you might find that small enough holes would let hot air escape but not let juice flow out. I know it is a crazy idea but I keep thinking of "amulent" sp? bottles that you stick a syringe into and then draw liquid out. The don't leak but do allow air flow formed by pressure differentail.
     

    CloudBurst

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    I have been working on my little transparent carto for awhile now and finally found a food grade silicone to seal it. It's interesting that it works better than any of my bottle mods. The airflow is easy but not too easy, mouthfulls of vapor and no leaks. I used a siringe tube cut to the same size as an xl, sealed the end with the connector but since it's about a mil larger than the tube it came in, I flipped the mouth piece so the little ridge seals it. maybe, it's just large enough to free up the restricted areas.
    The tube measures 9.2 mm without the paper on it and the siringe measures 10.05 mm.
     

    BanjoMan

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    A might have to buy a little "imp" pipe cutter a try it. I have 15 unusable E2 cartos with dented threads sitting in a box. Should be able to perfect a trechnique on them.

    I think you might find that small enough holes would let hot air escape but not let juice flow out. I know it is a crazy idea but I keep thinking of "amulent" sp? bottles that you stick a syringe into and then draw liquid out. The don't leak but do allow air flow formed by pressure differentail.

    Funny you should mention "dented threads". The first XL510 (R3) I pulled out last night to "br mod" had been crushed so bad the connector was oval-shaped. First one I've run into...
     

    Big Daddy

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    Any opinions on optimum distance from cup to mouthpiece bottom on this mod? I'm running at about 1/4" right now and it seems to be working fine.
    I've made three of these so far with gaps from 1/16" to 3/8" , not finding much difference in them . What are you guy's using to make the mouthpiece whole ?
     

    Turbo

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    I have been working on my little transparent carto for awhile now and finally found a food grade silicone to seal it. It's interesting that it works better than any of my bottle mods. The airflow is easy but not too easy, mouthfulls of vapor and no leaks.

    I would love to hear more about this. Pics?
     

    BanjoMan

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    I've made three of these so far with gaps from 1/16" to 3/8" , not finding much difference in them . What are you guy's using to make the mouthpiece whole ?

    Right now I don't have anything else to use so I'm cutting a small hole with an ex-acto knife and enlarging it manually with a 510 mouthpiece. I plan on buying some drip-tips, though...
     

    Big Daddy

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    btw the bottle I'm using (10ml) seems to have the perfect sized neck for these. I have to shave a "smidge" out of the inside of the neck with an ex-acto knife, but it fits really tight. I got them at Vapor Kings.

    Anyone else want to share bottle type/source and how well they're working?

    I'm using empty Nhaler 6ml sample bottles.
     
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