Herpes around that part of the world is hard to come by, when someone is offering you free herpes you dont just turn it down man. in china that would be rude and disrespectful.
NEW RoyalSmokers C-E2 R4 Review, Tips, Info, Help, Video
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, hahahaha that is funnybut can't they still at least put a sticker on the box saying who tested yours
i dont want anyone testing my cartos by hand period, a batch sample should go through testing and thats it, or however its done , i dont want greasy hands touching the carto, but i never have seen any finger prints on any of them so i guess thats a good thing.
I was thinking about the what was said earlier about the liquid in the new cartos and I guess that makes sense, if they use it as a lubricant to push the ceramic assembly (with filler cap on), middle ring etc up the carto body from the base/battery end. It really does look that way with the liquid pooled on top of the rings.
It also makes sense why some filler rings seem to be welded in position. (With the stringent quality control they have in place I find it hard to believe it happens, but some do slip through.)
If the assembly was pushed in dry, the filler ring would be clamped on the ceramic cup like a teachers hand on school kid's earlobe. It also accounts for the crushing/clamping of the wicks in the slots, even with the extra slots in the filler ring they have now.
And it could even account for the atomizer's outermost coil loops being stretched over to (and sometimes touching) the ceramic cups slots.
Maybe the ones with the liquid will perform better/longer once washed out because they haven't been subjected to force to get the assembly in.
Of course this all could be a load of twaddle, and I'm way off base. Doesn't matter really. :]
It also makes sense why some filler rings seem to be welded in position. (With the stringent quality control they have in place I find it hard to believe it happens, but some do slip through.)
If the assembly was pushed in dry, the filler ring would be clamped on the ceramic cup like a teachers hand on school kid's earlobe. It also accounts for the crushing/clamping of the wicks in the slots, even with the extra slots in the filler ring they have now.
And it could even account for the atomizer's outermost coil loops being stretched over to (and sometimes touching) the ceramic cups slots.
Maybe the ones with the liquid will perform better/longer once washed out because they haven't been subjected to force to get the assembly in.
Of course this all could be a load of twaddle, and I'm way off base. Doesn't matter really. :]
I was thinking about the what was said earlier about the liquid in the new cartos and I guess that makes sense, if they use it as a lubricant to push the ceramic assembly (with filler cap on), middle ring etc up the carto body from the base/battery end. It really does look that way with the liquid pooled on top of the rings.
It also makes sense why some filler rings seem to be welded in position. (With the stringent quality control they have in place I find it hard to believe it happens, but some do slip through.)
If the assembly was pushed in dry, the filler ring would be clamped on the ceramic cup like a teachers hand on school kid's earlobe. It also accounts for the crushing/clamping of the wicks in the slots, even with the extra slots in the filler ring they have now.
And it could even account for the atomizer's outermost coil loops being stretched over to (and sometimes touching) the ceramic cups slots.
Maybe the ones with the liquid will perform better/longer once washed out because they haven't been subjected to force to get the assembly in.
Of course this all could be a load of twaddle, and I'm way off base. Doesn't matter really. :]
No it matters and thats the same thing that happens with the wick, it gets that fluid on it and then we have to dry burn that smell/fluid off, some have more then others and i think your premise is the right one and that also effects the wick in the sense that they are also somehow pulled down during that process and arent fluffed in the slits, they have become flat and pressed in many.
Some wicks also look frayed or partly broken near the slits, like they're being put into the carto quickly and carelessly and the carto breaks part of it or something.
At some point (maybe now) it could be better to just skip the carto tube and the manufacturing expense and just buy the insides.
As the e2 and e3 etc... become more widely used, they will have to step up production and it looks like qc won't be able to handle it, if it's already been bad with the little production they did have up to theis point.
At some point (maybe now) it could be better to just skip the carto tube and the manufacturing expense and just buy the insides.
As the e2 and e3 etc... become more widely used, they will have to step up production and it looks like qc won't be able to handle it, if it's already been bad with the little production they did have up to theis point.
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That's why when I punch out the middle of the filler ring I also use a smaller punch on the slots, making them round so the wick doesn't get caught up in the corners. I'm hoping it will help stop any potential leaking by not having squared corners but a smooth rounded shape.
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I feel much Lucky now I know my carto is tested with "FAVOULESS" 0mg Liquid. I found also source of the magic "Favouless" liquid for happy carto to you.
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I've been pretty lazy when torching the wicks and it doesn't seem to melt easily nor does it mark a paper towel when swiped like the neoprene does. It'd be nice to know that it's not leaching anything into the juice though. Is that thing even necessary?
I feel much Lucky now I know my carto is tested with "FAVOULESS" 0mg Liquid. I found also source of the magic "Favouless" liquid for happy carto to you.
I'm so glad you found where that "FAVOULESS" came from. I feel much better knowing it's comparable to fresh spring water. Just can't beat the Chinese QC.That's probably why mine always break at the slit in the cup. I can't seem to torch that part clean.
Your theory requires an addendum as to how often the wicks need to be torched in order to remain optimal. I've been torching without rinsing in water just to see if makes any difference. I didn't know the liquid was flammable....
oh great...I need to go add a butane torch to my vaping arsenal...my son came home from college today, first in a long while and I had bottles and needles and cartos spread everywhere in my office...what the hell, he didn't say anything but wow, what if he saw a butane torch...
Here's a (crappy) cell phone pic of my syringe mod in progress. I started w/ a 3ml syringe and cut just above the plunger and just below the tip, leaving about 2-3/16" of tube. I sanded the ends flush. After doing that I found that larger end was too big for the CE2 base (which I left 3/8" of metal tube above the thread). The smaller end fits the threaded end but it does turn some when screwing on a batt. I attached the filler ring in hopes of making it more stable.
Not having a drip tip handy I made an improvised one from a CE2 mouthpiece and a short piece of the metal tube. It's too small to fit into the larger end.
I'm not convinced this is going to work the way I have it and wish I had more syringes to cut up but I need the ones I have left...lol.. at least the CE2 is now ready.
Not having a drip tip handy I made an improvised one from a CE2 mouthpiece and a short piece of the metal tube. It's too small to fit into the larger end.
I'm not convinced this is going to work the way I have it and wish I had more syringes to cut up but I need the ones I have left...lol.. at least the CE2 is now ready.
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Looks great! I find it necessary to have something such as the filler ring or white moutpiece stabilizing the cup. That will also prevent leaks- at least from the cup.
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