New Sub Ohm Reo Grand cuts it in Sub Ohm Vaping

[niczgreat]

Just pulled the trigger on a SL [Super Light] Sub Ohm Reo Grand.


To those not up on ReoVille news, Rob the owner just upgraded all his Reo Grande and Mini Reo Grande for Sub Ohm vaping. He's incorporated lower resistance contacts to provide less resistance in Sub Ohm vaping. In addition he's upgraded the firing button so it won't melt at low Ohms.


To those up on me, around 7 months back I purchased a Reo Grand for Sub Ohm vaping and returned it and wrote an honest review of my opinion of the Reo for which I was flamed royally. The old Reo had a really bad V-Drop at .Sub Ohm [at or below 3.0v on a full battery] and a firing button that melted.


Well Rob was listening and re-vamped the Reo and the fans over at ReoVille are raving about it and posting measurements. So I took the plunge and I bought a Reo Grand Low Profile Tumbled.


Just to break the jinx, I bought the SL [Super Light ] version which has patterns cut into it [Looks Neat]. I also chose the Tumbled for durability and not having to worry about the finish chipping. The last Reo I bought, when I put the door on the paint scratched. But I'm Mr Two Thumbs anyway


I didn't' buy the LP Version because my favorite RBA is the Reomizer V2 and I don't see the need to use any other RBA.


My Reo SL just arrived and I fired it up on an old battery. I'll go into more depth later and try with some other batteries.

The Voltage on the 2100Mah 30 Amp Sony battery was 4.20 and the V-Drop was down to 3.60V or around .60 V drop on a .33 Ohm Reomizer 2 Rba. This is comparable or Superior to my Bogger Boxes [all now defunct].

Your results may vary. I'll do a more thorough review later, but my initial impression is very favorable of the Sub Ohm Reo Grand.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Tom, I hear a fat lady singing for you

Have a pull offa her RM2s when she's done and squonk liberally

Congrats.

 

[niczgreat]

Playing with my New Reo has been fun.

Already made modifications,
Putting on and off the bottle I stretched the hose, also the hose lies flat on the bottom restricting flow of the liquid. So I cut off a little of the hose. Then I cut the end of the hose at an angle. Bingo getting better flow.

Then I examined the connection closely [Hoze to Metal Nozzle], I noticed that the connection had changed. The previous version was a screw in hose. This one was glued on. I proceeded to pull it out and then put one of my Bogger Box 8ml bottles on [adjusting the hose], worked perfectly. Very tight fit for the bottle but on my SL the door fit back on . So now my Reo is 8ml instead of 6ml. Hurray!

In my opinion the weakest point of resistance in the Sub Grand Reo is the spring at the bottom, which is built to collapse in a short and made of 3 pieces. This was the trade off of performance verse safety by the manufacturer. Many are doing a Fuse Mod to it to get as much as .20 better resistance.

At .33 Ohms, and 3.6V or 38 Watts, I am a very happy guy. This weekend I'll change it over to the Fuse Mod. I already bought the fuses at Walmart.

I finally figured out the right way to use the rubber O ring that comes with the Reomizer 2. You put it around the threads of the cap so that you can adjust the holes to run directly in the center. On the Sub Ohm Reo the indentation around the 510 connecter is deep and the small O ring would not serve any use.

Don't know if it's a function of the holes in the SL Version but the unit is running very cool. Unlike a wood box, the heat is being conducted by the metal body of the unit from the RBA and being vented out the holes. Result I'm not seeing a heat build up in the RBA [Like on my Bogger Box] or the Body.

It's working perfectly with Flat Top Batteries. I wouldn't suggest that you use the new 3400mah batteries that are 18.3 mm instead of the standard 18mm. I think the Reo is built compact,built to tight tolerances and it would push the door out.

Did just pick up some of the Sony 30amp 2600mah batteries, so it'll be interesting to see if I hit 3.7 or 3.8 under load on my .33 OHm configuration. The bats I'm using now have seen some use, so I think that any new battery would see a performance gain.

I'm very impressed with the small form factor of the Reo Grand. Also I haven't had any leaking issues whatsoever.

 

[kiwivap]

I didn't' buy the LP Version because my favorite RBA is the Reomizer V2 and I don't see the need to use any other RBA.

Been trying to get a handle on this "LP" version. Is it necessary for RBAs or just an added feature that makes them a bit easier. i.e. could I still use RBAs with a standard Reo?

 

[niczgreat]

The LP version opens you to putting almost any RBA on your REO.

The regular version can only take smaller RBA. So for Universal Compatibility the LP is better.

I was told that there is alot of space around the Reomizer V2 my RBA of choice and that it wouldn't look that good
also, I think that when/if you drop the unit there is nothing to brace the RBA and it could break off. [Just an amateur Opinion]

 

[kiwivap]

The LP version opens you to putting almost any RBA on your REO.

The regular version can only take smaller RBA. So for Universal Compatibility the LP is better.

I was told that there is alot of space around the Reomizer V2 my RBA of choice and that it wouldn't look that good
also, I think that when/if you drop the unit there is nothing to brace the RBA and it could break off. [Just an amateur Opinion]

Thanks Tom. My other query is how a store bought atty goes on an LP. I mean query in general. I guess I like the idea of one Reo for both. From the sounds of it a regular Reo would be the thing I'd go for.

 

[muzichead]

Kiwi, you can use a regular atty on the LP version as well, (same as the original REO's), but it was designed for use with all RDA's in mind. It is basically a regular device with the catch cup milled down to accept an atty larger than 15mm in diameter. There has been a big trend in modding and using 22mm diameter RDA's such as the Patriot, Zenith, TOBH, Stillaire, or even the VA Cylone w/ AFC on the REO's and by having the LP design, it is now possible to do so.

 

[kiwivap]

Kiwi, you can use a regular atty on the LP version as well, (same as the original REO's), but it was designed for use with all RDA's in mind. It is basically a regular device with the catch cup milled down to accept an atty larger than 15mm in diameter. There has been a big trend in modding and using 22mm diameter RDA's such as the Patriot, Zenith, TOBH, Stillaire, or even the VA Cylone w/ AFC on the REO's and by having the LP design, it is now possible to do so.

Thanks Muzichead! That little question was bugging me.

 

[alkaiser]

holy crap that's a horrible voltage drop

 

[super_X_drifter]

Should I stop and feed the troll ^ ^ ?

No nothing to see here

 

[muzichead]

Should I stop and feed the troll ^ ^ ?

No nothing to see here

Moving right along....

 

[niczgreat]

holy crap that's a horrible voltage drop

Disclaimer: I should have emphasized that the batteries that I'm testing the Reo on are at least 6-8 months old and may not be performing at 100%. So tests done with newer batteries may be higher

But even based on used batteries and the current results.:

Last night I tested it on a Sony 2100 High Amp battery and I hit 3.6v off the bat.
I have new Sony VTC5 coming in on Monday, so I'm hoping that the figures will be higher, I also am going to fuse mod it the week after. So the figures I originally posted may not be accurate.

I've tested many mechanicals.
The best I've ever seen is around a 4.0V. The Best of the best will do around 3.85. A result of 3.4-3.6V on a full battery puts it in a good place.

You are entitled to your opinion that "It's a horrible" V drop, but based on what I've seen it's a average performer. By the way, there are other mods that enthusiasts are doing on Reo's that will take them higher.

There are some intangibles. In life everything is a trade off. For that .25V - .4V extra Vdrop I get the following

1. The bottom Feeder experience, The taste experience of dripping without the inconvenience..
I can Vape in my Car [Safely] while driving.

2. A completely rebuildable, 100% mechanical Unit. My other units didn't have a mechanical button and within 4-5 months they failed with no way to fix them.

3. A APV that is at a V-Drop level that suits my needs. Actually the 3.6V on the Sony was a little too hot for me.

Please Reo Fans don't flame this person, he's entitled to his opinion. Based on his needs, it's too much of a V-Drop. Assume he has a High End Mechanical that is doing 4V then to him the numbers I posted might be horrible But in my opinion it's just fine for the majority of Sub OHm Vapers.

Let's concentrate on educating not fighting and give people the benefit of the doubt.

 

[alkaiser]

thanks for the reply tomzgreat.

to those who think i'm trolling, go through my post history and see if i've ever trolled anyone.

i was being very serious when i said that it has a horrible voltage drop.

my daily setup is a 0.35 ohm build. i want to get the best out of my battery as much as possible. If I wanted a similar hit with a .25-.4V drop, I'd have to build my coils even lower and sacrifice more battery life than i already am. most mechanical mods that are released these days have less than 0.1 voltage drop at a 13A current according to jkuro's voltage drop tests.

of course, this won't matter to a lot of people, but to me, it does. reos offer a lot of awesome features that are perfect for a lot of people. i'm not debating that at all. however, the voltage drop is definitely a negative in terms of performance.

 

[niczgreat]

HI Alkraiser,
A little off topic but you've aroused my curiousity.
Do you have a link to the Jkuro Voltage Drop tests.

Also very curious, have you ever tested your mod with a Voltage indicator or hooked a multimeter up to your mod.
Theoretical and real life can be different at times.

I've been to vaping conventions and put different models of Mechanicals on a Voltage Meter and never encountered a mod that
with a 4.2 battery and a .4ohm Coil put out 4.1V, Best I've seen is 4.0 and the majority around 3.6 and some reaching 3.85

I'm very curious about what mod you are using that is giving you that type of performance.

 

[alkaiser]

here you go

Mod Voltage Test Setup

my 2 main mods are the bay city vapor XXIX / Surfrider and GP Paps V3.

 

[Paul.K]

I think what you are seeing is the voltage drops with a reomizer atty. Jkuro's tests are solely based on mod voltage drop without any atomizer installed. Try measuring your mech mod with an atty on it.

 

[dchest02]

Just for conversation sake I'll throw in my

The real world voltage drop on both of my Grands is on average .22 volts. The voltage drop on my Mini 2.0 is roughly .35 volts. All three are modded with brass shims around the hot spring (I know, that makes the hot spring a moot point) and brass firing pins I made, I test with the same .65 ohm coil on the same RM 2. I am super happy with the performance of all three of my Reos, it just took a little tweaking, which is fine by me.

 

[niczgreat]

here you go

Mod Voltage Test Setup

my 2 main mods are the bay city vapor XXIX / Surfrider and GP Paps V3.

HI Alkraiser,
The chart you sent is a great resource for comparing the mods on the charts to Each other, but they aren't real life. For example they eliminate battery lag and Atomizer Resistance . My test has Battery lag and Atomizer resistance. I't impossible that my result wouldn't be lower then that chart.

Since resistance is really important to you I'd suggest that you buy a Assembled Volt Indicators, Rev 2 and see what you are really getting.

By the way from my experience don't buy a Tankometer they don't hold up. I bought one of the Mad Vapes Indicators, it was accurate [Checked against a provari and a mulimeter] and beat the beejesus out of it.

 

[The Ocelot]

Happy Kittiezz!

 

[niczgreat]

I picked up Brand New Sony VTC-5 Batteries from Mt Baker.
My Reomizer 2 RBA tested at .28 Ohm and on a full battery charged to 3.20V the best I could do is 3.6
Pic 1- Atomizer Tester showing .28OHM


Pic 2 Showing Bat Charge First Firing was at 4.20 then 4.19 for this second firing.


Pic 3 Showing How many Volts at 4.19 1st firing was 3.6, Pic shows 2nd Firing at 3.58


I'll try again after the battery has been charged a few times.

I've done a fuse mod [30AMP Fuse] to the REO and the only change I can think of that would be easy is to replace the fuse with pure brass.

By the way, I'm very happy with the results. While not reaching the 3.8-4.0 that I've seen on the highest end tube rockets, 3.6v is a respectable number, only one problem. The 3.6v is a little hot, I may have to ad another coil. Sigh Or I may go back to the original spring.

According to the Ohms Chart I'm vaping at 63 Watts.