New to battery safety (whoops)

[subohms4you]

Okay so I need to know if my build is safe with everything together.

rda- Mutation XL dual parallel coil at 0.22ohms
mod-Seeker EHPRO mech mod
Battery- 26650 IMR 3.7V 3500mAh

I've tried figuring it out but I just want another confirmation. If more info is needed just request It.

 

[Cullin Kin]

We need to know the brand and continuous amp rating of your battery.

Right now you are pulling 19.09A off of your freshly charged battery so your battery better be at least 20A continuous, preferably 25A.

Edit: Good for you for verifying your build is safe btdubs.

 

[subohms4you]

We need to know the brand and continuous amp rating of your battery.

Right now you are pulling 19.09A off of your freshly charged battery so it better be at least 20A continuous, preferably 25A.

How do I find the continuous amp rating?

 

[Cullin Kin]

How do I find the continuous amp rating?

A lot of batteries will say directly on the label. If not, just tell me the brand. Or even the color. Preferably the brand.

 

[subohms4you]

We need to know the brand and continuous amp rating of your battery.

Right now you are pulling 19.09A off of your freshly charged battery so your battery better be at least 20A continuous, preferably 25A.

Edit: Good for you for verifying your build is safe btdubs.

A lot of batteries will say directly on the label. If not, just tell me the brand. Or even the color. Preferably the brand.

It's MNKE.

 

[Cullin Kin]

It's MNKE.

Okay cool. You're lucky, that battery is one of the better batteries out there. It has a continuous rating of 20A. So, at 19.09A you are pulling 95% of the continuous discharge. Technically it's safe, but it's sort of like taking your car almost to redline all of the time. Most members recommend at least a 20% safety margin. Make your builds so that they pull 80% of the continuous rating, which is 0.2625Ω. If I were you, I would stay above 0.27Ω which will still give you a great vape.

Here is a great tool for predicting builds: http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

You just enter the kanthal wire gauge, choose your build (single coil, dual coil parallel, etc.), choose the resistance you want, and enter your wrapping post diameter and it will tell you how many wraps to do. It's not perfect, we're humans so we can't build perfect coils. But it comes pretty darn close.

 

[subohms4you]

Okay cool. You're lucky, that battery is one of the better batteries out there. It has a continuous rating of 20A. So, at 19.09A you are pulling 95% of the continuous discharge. Technically it's safe, but it's almost like taking your car almost to redline all of the time. Most members recommend at least a 20% safety margin. Make your builds so that they pull 80% of the continuous rating, which is 0.2625Ω. If I were you, I would stay above 0.27Ω which will still give you a great vape.

Thanks for the help. I was going with this build for clouds but seeing this I'm gonna hop on a different setup. I'll dail this one back a bit and explore other options.

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!

If you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:

BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[Cullin Kin]

Thanks for the help. I was going with this build for clouds but seeing this I'm gonna hop on a different setup. I'll dail this one back a bit and explore other options.

No problem, my pleasure. Inquiring about safety is always commendable. Pass it on. Susan posted some great information as well. Spend some time reading through that.

Vape Happy.

 

[subohms4you]

No problem, my pleasure. Inquiring about safety is always commendable. Pass it on. Susan posted some great information as well. Spend some time reading through that.

Vape Happy.

Okay one more question. What if I use an Efest 3500mah imr26650 3.7
discharge current 32A/64A

 

[Cullin Kin]

Okay one more question. What if I use an Efest 3500mah imr26650 3.7
discharge current 32A/64A

There's a lot of controversy surrounding efest batteries because they buy other batteries and slap their own label on them, while falsely inflating the continuous discharge rating. For example, the purple efest 18650 35A 2500mah is actually a 20A LG HE2 battery. While it's a good battery, they inflated the discharge ratings to something they're not, and that's dangerous.

I'm not sure it's the same case with their 26650 3500mAh, but considering it's the exact same specs as your MNKE... I would venture to say it's the same battery with a 20A discharge rating.

When I used mechanical mods, I avoided efest because I didn't trust them. Their dishonesty was enough for me to not want anything to do with them.

If you really want to go below 0.27Ω, or stay at your current 0.22Ω, or just get bigger clouds in general, I would recommend doing one of these two things:

1) Find a true and tested 30A 26650 battery or buy an 18650 mechanical mod and a Sony VTC4 18650 battery which is a tried, true, and tested 30A battery.

Here is a link for the battery: http://www.rtdvapor.com/sony-us18650vtc4-2100mah-30amp/

2) Just buy a high powered regulated mod like the IPV3 150W or Sigelei 150W, or if you're super rich get the 250W Vicious Ant Variant Slim. Regulated mods like these allow you to build down to 0.1Ω or 0.2Ω much more safely than mechanical mods. They still require high drain batteries (preferably 30A 18650's like the Sony's), but they have built in circuitry for over discharge and what not.

Trust me, if you build a 0.3Ω dual coil setup and pump 150W through it, you will be more than happy with the clouds. At that point, it becomes: Can you wick efficiently enough?

One thing I want to emphasize: DO NOT TRUST 'PULSE' RATINGS, THEY ARE A MYTH

 

[Susan~S]

Check this battery out instead (blog post by Kaezziel): Best 26650 Battery for Sub Ohm Vaping

KeepPower 50A* 26650
*Just an FYI on the KeepPower 50A 26650s - Short version, Max Continuous Draw is 30A not 50

 

[Niten13]

There's a lot of controversy surrounding efest batteries because they buy other batteries and slap their own label on them, while falsely inflating the continuous discharge rating. For example, the purple efest 18650 35A 2500mah is actually a 20A LG HE2 battery. While it's a good battery, they inflated the discharge ratings to something they're not, and that's dangerous.

I'm not sure it's the same case with their 26650 3500mAh, but considering it's the exact same specs as your MNKE... I would venture to say it's the same battery with a 20A discharge rating.

When I used mechanical mods, I avoided efest because I didn't trust them. Their dishonesty was enough for me to not want anything to do with them.

If you really want to go below 0.27Ω, or stay at your current 0.22Ω, or just get bigger clouds in general, I would recommend doing one of these two things:

1) Find a true and tested 30A 26650 battery or buy an 18650 mechanical mod and a Sony VTC4 18650 battery which is a tried, true, and tested 30A battery.

Here is a link for the battery: Sony 18650 VTC4 2100mAh 30a

2) Just buy a high powered regulated mod like the IPV3 150W or Sigelei 150W, or if you're super rich get the 250W Vicious Ant Variant Slim. Regulated mods like these allow you to build down to 0.1Ω or 0.2Ω much more safely than mechanical mods. They still require high drain batteries (preferably 30A 18650's like the Sony's), but they have built in circuitry for over discharge and what not.

Trust me, if you build a 0.3Ω dual coil setup and pump 150W through it, you will be more than happy with the clouds. At that point, it becomes: Can you wick efficiently enough?

One thing I want to emphasize: DO NOT TRUST 'PULSE' RATINGS, THEY ARE A MYTH

Some of the best advice I have ever seen given here!

 

[Susan~S]

2) Just buy a high powered regulated mod like the IPV3 150W or Sigelei 150W, or if you're super rich get the 250W Vicious Ant Variant Slim. Regulated mods like these allow you to build down to 0.1Ω or 0.2Ω much more safely than mechanical mods. They still require high drain batteries (preferably 30A 18650's like the Sony's), but they have built in circuitry for over discharge and what not.

Trust me, if you build a 0.3Ω dual coil setup and pump 150W through it, you will be more than happy with the clouds. At that point, it becomes: Can you wick efficiently enough?

One thing I want to emphasize: DO NOT TRUST 'PULSE' RATINGS, THEY ARE A MYTH

Ditto on the "Pulse Rating".

A few comments regarding high powered vv/vw mods.

SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT

With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil. With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

A high vv/vw mod is a lot more versatile than a mechanical mod (not to mention safer, less upkeep, etc). The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.

With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.

Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features

 

[Rsunderl]

Hi subohms4you and welcome aboard!

One thing I didn't see mentioned. What ohm meter are you using to check your builds with?

Happy Vaping!

 

[subohms4you]

Thanks everyone for the wonderful answers!