New to Mech Mods

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rice721

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So on what build should i use the lg's ?

its rated 20A, I like to give myself anywhere from 40-50% of head room in terms of CDR when building. So think of it as a 10-12A battery.

a 0.5ohm build would require 8.4A
a 0.4ohm build would require 10.5A
a 0.3ohm build would require 14A

I wouldn't go lower than a 0.35 (4.2/.35 = 12A)
 

Baditude

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My current build on it is 0.27 on a velocity...

Oh i frgot to metiond the coils are dual fused clapton (28gx32g) and my batteries are awt red and lg choco..
Are You Using a Rewrap Battery?


AWT 40A 3000mAh 18650 Bench Retest Results...only a 20A battery, damaged at over 30A

LG INR18650-HG2 20A 3000mAh Bench Retest Results...a great 20A battery!

Learn to not trust the amp ratings of many of the battery manufacturers, especially companies like AWT who are battery rewrappers. Mooch bench tests batteries and showed that the red AWT (advertised 40A) is only a 20 A battery. 18650 Battery Safety Grades -- Picking a Safe Cell to Vape With

The below calculations from an Ohm's Law Calculator demonstrate that the lower you go in ohms the higher the amp requirement becomes. See how your 0.27 ohm coil will draw OVER 14 amps from your battery. You are also putting a lot of faith into a cheap ohm reader in being precisely accurate to the tenth/hundreth of an ohm. Always tend to err on the side of safety when you make your builds by allowing some safety head room.

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are.

I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. The above Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.

The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.


A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
  • As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept
But when I wake up this morning and started vaping on it the button tends to get warm.
You are wise to seek advice. A mod's firing button or body should never feel warm or hot to the touch. This is a sign of a short circuit somewhere in the setup. It's ok if the atomizer feels warm or hot, but this is because the heating coil is within it.
 
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Forkeh

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Yeah clean the unit, that should help. I do recall that when I was using mechs exclusively, that did happen sometimes, mostly with chain vaping at lower resistance. Cleaning helped in some mods. In others, I suspect that poor machining quality had something to do with the issue. Poor conductivity efficiency and all that. If the firing button is getting very warm, I would be concerned. If cleaning doesn't help, try polishing the threads of the mod. If none of that works, I would consider maybe just buying a new one. Clones aren't particularly expensive. Always read the user reviews. And I've had very good luck with HCigar's 1:1 clones in the past.
 

Alter

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I have a brass colored Chiyou, no idea where it came from just that its a chiyou. The big problem it had was the firing button always loosening, you could never tighten the screw enough. You put a couple itty bitty pieces of brass wire into the bottom then tighten down the screw and the screw now has pressure to hold it in place better. My fire button never loosened after the fix. A loose fire button can cause the button to heat up due to bad contact.
You can make your own spring, I bought brass wire of different gauges from the home depot, some mech springs are just crap.
 
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