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New User From Turkey: From Local Tobacco to E-Cig
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<blockquote data-quote="bombastinator" data-source="post: 23649080" data-attributes="member: 43994"><p>Redoing coils is really quick. A few minutes. Less if you don’t clean the coil but just remove the whole wad and put in a new one. It’s cheap enough you can do that.</p><p></p><p>To wrap a coil you find a mandrel,(often the haft of a screw driver. I often use a knitting needle because they’re marked by size) of the preferred diameter. If you don’t know you have to measure it. A vernier caliper is handy for that but not required.</p><p>Wrap the wire around the mandrel the number of times indicated by the coil calculator (5-8 usually, though I’ve seen 10 wraps on really old devices) the thicker the wire the longer a coil can last and the more times it can be rewicked I’ve had thick wire coils last a bear or mor and really big thin ones only good for one wick. It kinda depends on what coil you need. Most of the bits are used for other things as well, so they’re generally legal. One can use kanthal, nichrhrome, Ni80 (if you’re not allergic to nickel. Many are) SS301, (which is a marine grade stainless) and there’s one mother stainless who’s name eludes me. So if you can get wire of any of those metals you’re good. The trick is buying it in small enough spools. When I buy wire I usually wind up with a lifetime supply.</p><p></p><p>The wick is just cotton. Literally a third of a cotton ball works fine. The very best stuff is this rayon fluff they sell for wound care in the EU. Also real cheap.</p><p></p><p>The juice components arePG, VG, and PeG they all do similar things you can use as much or as little of each as you want. High molarity Ethanol has also been used but it evaporates pretty hot and produces no visible “smoke” (which is why it’s used: stealth Vaping)</p><p>One could use distilled water but it has an even higher temperature. (Water is very hot) VG produces the most “smoke”. They’re all easy to get. Polyproplyne glycol (it actually IN toothpaste and a bunch of other stuff), Poly Etholyne Glycol, (a common food additive) Vegtable Glycerine (a common food additive and a laxitive for cattle. I buy mine at a local feed store) flavoring (I use flavorwest mostly but there are a mess of them) and (the hard and expensive one) liquid nicotine. The nicotine would likely be the only thing you could possibly have trouble with. It’s also used as a last ditch insecticide though, so it may be orderable from pest control retailers. In my area it’s the only thing that will save a tree from emerald borer infestation because it’s systemic. It’s a super pain to apply though (you have to inject it, so drill a hole in the tree) and it’s only good for one season. The bugs will come back every year, so it’s rarely used. They can order it though.</p><p></p><p>As for attys a CnC mill can produce one. I suspect 3d printing as well.</p><p></p><p>Same holds true for mech mods. Only the regulated mods would be hard. So you can theoretically get everything legally and not have to deal with smugglers at all, though it may be cheaper or better that way.</p><p></p><p>For cleaning rather than replacing a coil see “dry burning”</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bombastinator, post: 23649080, member: 43994"] Redoing coils is really quick. A few minutes. Less if you don’t clean the coil but just remove the whole wad and put in a new one. It’s cheap enough you can do that. To wrap a coil you find a mandrel,(often the haft of a screw driver. I often use a knitting needle because they’re marked by size) of the preferred diameter. If you don’t know you have to measure it. A vernier caliper is handy for that but not required. Wrap the wire around the mandrel the number of times indicated by the coil calculator (5-8 usually, though I’ve seen 10 wraps on really old devices) the thicker the wire the longer a coil can last and the more times it can be rewicked I’ve had thick wire coils last a bear or mor and really big thin ones only good for one wick. It kinda depends on what coil you need. Most of the bits are used for other things as well, so they’re generally legal. One can use kanthal, nichrhrome, Ni80 (if you’re not allergic to nickel. Many are) SS301, (which is a marine grade stainless) and there’s one mother stainless who’s name eludes me. So if you can get wire of any of those metals you’re good. The trick is buying it in small enough spools. When I buy wire I usually wind up with a lifetime supply. The wick is just cotton. Literally a third of a cotton ball works fine. The very best stuff is this rayon fluff they sell for wound care in the EU. Also real cheap. The juice components arePG, VG, and PeG they all do similar things you can use as much or as little of each as you want. High molarity Ethanol has also been used but it evaporates pretty hot and produces no visible “smoke” (which is why it’s used: stealth Vaping) One could use distilled water but it has an even higher temperature. (Water is very hot) VG produces the most “smoke”. They’re all easy to get. Polyproplyne glycol (it actually IN toothpaste and a bunch of other stuff), Poly Etholyne Glycol, (a common food additive) Vegtable Glycerine (a common food additive and a laxitive for cattle. I buy mine at a local feed store) flavoring (I use flavorwest mostly but there are a mess of them) and (the hard and expensive one) liquid nicotine. The nicotine would likely be the only thing you could possibly have trouble with. It’s also used as a last ditch insecticide though, so it may be orderable from pest control retailers. In my area it’s the only thing that will save a tree from emerald borer infestation because it’s systemic. It’s a super pain to apply though (you have to inject it, so drill a hole in the tree) and it’s only good for one season. The bugs will come back every year, so it’s rarely used. They can order it though. As for attys a CnC mill can produce one. I suspect 3d printing as well. Same holds true for mech mods. Only the regulated mods would be hard. So you can theoretically get everything legally and not have to deal with smugglers at all, though it may be cheaper or better that way. For cleaning rather than replacing a coil see “dry burning” [/QUOTE]
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