Newb looking to move from eGo to mechcanical mod

[RagingCheese]

Hi ECF. I've been smoking my eGo with both carto and clearomizer tanks and recently started to take vaping a bit more seriously and therefore would like to move to something "better". Ive been looking into investing a mech mod, but dont know much about them. Ive been lurking on here for a few days now and picked up a little of bit of info and lingo, however I am still not sure which mod, tank, batteries and charger to purchase.

Since I am new to this, I have been looking at "cheaper" mods, clones. How do you guys feel about them? Is it worth the extra money to buy an authentic mod vs a clone? I dont mind spending the extra $$$ if the authentic versions perform significantly better than the clones and if a newbie like myself will even be able to tell the difference. Some clones I was looking at were the Smok Magneto & MKB-TS (if I can even find one. Looks like there are OOS everywhere). As for an authentic mod, I had my eye on a Atmizoo Roller.

Now onto which tank I should purchase. This is an area I am completely lost. From the little I read on forums, it looks like cartomizers are preferred over clearomizers for newbs. Can you please suggest a tank to go along with a mod?

Last opinion I need is the battery and charger. Ultrafire WF-188 charger and Efest batteries will do the trick?



Thanks in advance for all your help. Please excuse my lack on knowledge. If you could provide links to your suggestions, that would be very helpful.
-Ryan


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NEED YOUR OPINION ON POST #42

 

[tj99959]

I would suggest getting a VV APV first. That way when you do get a mechanical mod, you will have more of an idea of what you want to do with it.

You might also find it interesting that the Reo has still outsold all other mechanical mods combined. It also has, by far, the most active sub forum in the vendors section here on ecf.

<~~ that's a Reo

 

[NumberOneBatfan]

I would suggest getting a VV APV first. That way when you do get a mechanical mod, you will have more of an idea of what you want to do with it.

You might also find it interesting that the Reo has still outsold all other mechanical mods combined. It also has, by far, the most active sub forum in the vendors section here on ecf.

<~~ that's a Reo

Exactly what TJ said, unfortunately I don't have a picture to point to yet.

 

[MeanyMikey]

VV APV first is a great suggestion. That's what I did and worked well for me.

Which mod is of course personal preference, between looks and function. I got the GP Paps, and would suggest it to any non newbie. Seems to me that very few high end mods have any major flaws, and this forum has been a great place to find those types of things out. If you have the money then I'd go for the real deal instead of any clone. Just my two cents. As far as tanks go, I'm still looking into those as well.

AW IMR batteries are highly suggested. Along with a multi meter.

Most important thing would be to do your research and make sure you follow safe practices. Good luck.

 

[BeatboxHero]

I would suggest getting a VV APV first. That way when you do get a mechanical mod, you will have more of an idea of what you want to do with it.

I agree completely with tj99959 I was smoking an eGo until about a week ago. Just got a Sigelei Zmax. The difference is amazing! So glad I got this APV. Plus they are relatively inexpensive compared to the high end mechs. The few I was looking at were the Vamo, Zmax (Sigelei rather then smoktech), and the iTaste SVD/MVP. You can get most of these plus batteries and charger for about $60-$100 online. I am in love with my Zmax and have heard a lot of people that like it over the vamo. But it is my first APV. So my opinion may not hold the most weight and everyone has their own preferences. Look around and see what you like.

Once I feel like I want MORE then my Zmax I will start saving up for a really nice expensive mech But for now it is all I could ever want.

 

[RagingCheese]

I would suggest getting a VV APV first. That way when you do get a mechanical mod, you will have more of an idea of what you want to do with it.

You might also find it interesting that the Reo has still outsold all other mechanical mods combined. It also has, by far, the most active sub forum in the vendors section here on ecf.

<~~ that's a Reo

Thanks for the quick response, I will look into an APV. I figure I skip out on this step and go straight into a mech mod as it seems all avid users end up with one. But it looks like I might be too eager and way over my head?

 

[BeatboxHero]

As far as tanks go, I'm still looking into those as well.

KangerTech Protanks are my recommendation. Everyone has been raving about them so I got both the 1 and 2. They both are my daily tanks now. They don't leak, easy to clean, they hold plenty of juice, and they vape like it's nobody business!

 

[RagingCheese]

VV APV first is a great suggestion. That's what I did and worked well for me.

Which mod is of course personal preference, between looks and function. I got the GP Paps, and would suggest it to any non newbie. Seems to me that very few high end mods have any major flaws, and this forum has been a great place to find those types of things out. If you have the money then I'd go for the real deal instead of any clone. Just my two cents. As far as tanks go, I'm still looking into those as well.

AW IMR batteries are highly suggested. Along with a multi meter.

Most important thing would be to do your research and make sure you follow safe practices. Good luck.

Thanks for your suggestions. What battery charger do you recommend with AW IMR batteries?

 

[RagingCheese]

I agree completely with tj99959 I was smoking an eGo until about a week ago. Just got a Sigelei Zmax. The difference is amazing! So glad I got this APV. Plus they are relatively inexpensive compared to the high end mechs. The few I was looking at were the Vamo, Zmax (Sigelei rather then smoktech), and the iTaste SVD/MVP. You can get most of these plus batteries and charger for about $60-$100 online. I am in love with my Zmax and have heard a lot of people that like it over the vamo. But it is my first APV. So my opinion may not hold the most weight and everyone has their own preferences. Look around and see what you like.

Once I feel like I want MORE then my Zmax I will start saving up for a really nice expensive mech But for now it is all I could ever want.

Thanks! Looks like APV might be the next step up without confusing myself. What makes a PV considered a APV?

Btw Im replying to everyone seperately so I can reach my 5 post

 

[NicoHolic]

Get a drip atomizer for your eGo.

Come to the realization vaping can't get any better than dripping, but it could be a bit risky steering with your knees to do it.

Visit the Reos Mods sub-forum and find you can drip with a 6 ml juice bottle, from wake-up to bedtime, with one hand, and a tiny REO Grand. ...and that an APV doesn't have to look like a dildo.

Come across the Micro Coils to increase Vapor, Flavor & TH thread. Note the number buying REOs with the easy-to-coil Reomizer 2 RBA (aka RM2)

Order your REO and RM2, along with some 26 - 28 AWG Kanthal A1 and Nichrome 60, and a multimeter. Find a 1/16" drill bit and some cotton balls or Q-tips. Get some 1600 mAH 18650 AW IMR batteries and a NiteCore i2 charger.

Achieve Vaping Nirvana

Lose interest in anything else and congratulate yourself for saving the money on other devices getting to this point.

 

[fullsleeve]

I vote for the reo. save the time and money and skip right to where you'll end up anyways. wish I did

 

[MeanyMikey]

That Nitecore Intellicharger i2 is what I've got. Great charger so far.

 

[NicoHolic]

��That Nitecore Intellicharger i2 is what I've got. Great charger so far.

One important feature is that you can power it with 12 VDC from your vehicle/RV/boat (you'll need to buy the appropriate cable to do it). If you've ever been without power for over a week, you'll appreciate this.

 

[BeatboxHero]

Thanks! Looks like APV might be the next step up without confusing myself. What makes a PV considered a APV?

Btw Im replying to everyone seperately so I can reach my 5 post

Smart move and APV means "Advanced" Personal Vaporizers. The word "advanced" is relative Some are advanced and some aren't in my opinion haha. But that's part of the learning curve. You will learn what you like and it's "better" to do that on an APV then move to a mech accordingly. APV's are a little more forgiving IMHO haha.

Also with what NicoHog is saying, don't be intimidated by the rebuild-able attys and such NicoHog is right, there is way more customization that way and you can really learn what you want. Just don't let it scare ya haha. Take your time to learn it and it will be worth it for you

 

[RagingCheese]

Get a drip atomizer for your eGo.

Come to the realization vaping can't get any better than dripping, but it could be a bit risky steering with your knees to do it.

Visit the Reos Mods sub-forum and find you can drip with a 6 ml juice bottle, from wake-up to bedtime, with one hand, and a tiny REO Grand. ...and that an APV doesn't have to look like a dildo.

Come across the Micro Coils to increase Vapor, Flavor & TH thread. Note the number buying REOs with the easy-to-coil Reomizer 2 RBA (aka RM2)

Order your REO and RM2, along with some 26 - 28 AWG Kanthal A1 and Nichrome 60, and a multimeter. Find a 1/16" drill bit and some cotton balls or Q-tips. Get some 1600 mAH 18650 AW IMR batteries and a NiteCore i2 charger.

Achieve Vaping Nirvana

Lose interest in anything else and congratulate yourself for saving the money on other devices getting to this point.

That is a lot of information to take in. I'll research what I can and try to make something of it. lol

 

[Baditude]

Getting a regulated (variable voltage/wattage) APV initially as your first mod will give you more options as far as ohms/resistance choice; a mechanical mod will restrict those choices.

A mechanical mod will have no true built-in safety features; the "hot spring" and vent holes only go into effect once a battery gets hot and does nothing to prevent or warn of a hard short. A regulated mod will have built-in protective circuitry to detect a fault in the atomizer and either refuse to fire (displaying an error code on the LED display) or shut down completely to protect the atty, the mod itself, and the user from harm.

A mechanical mod will have a drop off in vape satisfaction as the battery's voltage drains during use. A regulated mod will regulate the voltage to the atty to the voltage dialed in by the boost circuit so that the vape satisfaction remains relatively constant from the time you install a new battery until it needs to be replaced. How well the regulated mod does this depends upon the level of sophistication of the processor's boost circuitry.
___

As far as batteries go, you can't really go wrong with the AW brand. The high drain, safer-chemistry IMR are the most recommended choice. Panasonic is also a wise choice. Stay away from no-name generic batteries.
___

For clearotanks, I'd suggest the Kanger Protank. These are bottom-coil, bottom-wicked (gravity works in their favor), with rebuildable (replaceable) heads, and utilize a replaceable pyrex tank that would be safe for all flavors of e-liquid.

For a cartotank, I'd suggest the IBTanked pyrex cartotanks. High quality, with either stainless steel or anodized aluminum end caps. Three diameters to choose from to fit any size mod. Three lengths to fit the standard (35mm) and XL (45mm) cartomizers, as well as a new super shorty "Halfling" to fit the shorter carts. Complete tank kits starting at $25.

For cartomizers, I recommend Ikenvape if you find them in stock. The other two choices would be Smoktech or Boge.
The top battery chargers are Pila, Nitecore Intellicharger, and the better Xtar brands.

 

[NicoHolic]

Getting a regulated (variable voltage/wattage) APV initially as your first mod will give you more options as far as ohms/resistance choice; a mechanical mod will restrict those choices.

Actually, it's the other way around. The regulated mod will restrict your choices of using low ohm coils.

A mechanical mod will have no true built-in safety features; the "hot spring" and vent holes only go into effect once a battery gets hot and does nothing to prevent or warn of a hard short.

Have you tried this yourself with the REO spring? I will... and I'll bet the spring heats much faster than the battery.

A regulated mod will have built-in protective circuitry to detect a fault in the atomizer and either refuse to fire (displaying an error code on the LED display) or shut down completely to protect the atty, the mod itself, and the user from harm.

That's why you check your atomizer with a multimeter before you use it.

A mechanical mod will have a drop off in vape satisfaction as the battery's voltage drains during use.

There will be a decrease in voltage applied to the coil and a decrease in vapor produced per unit of time. So you vape a bit longer each time. Of course, when you're starting out at much more power than the regulated mod can deliver, you can afford to lose some.

A regulated mod will regulate the voltage to the atty to the voltage dialed in by the boost circuit so that the vape satisfaction remains relatively constant from the time you install a new battery until it needs to be replaced. How well the regulated mod does this depends upon the level of sophistication of the processor's boost circuitry.

Assuming you're satisfied with the lesser output of the regulated mod.

As far as batteries go, you can't really go wrong with the AW brand. The high drain, safer-chemistry IMR are the most recommended choice. Panasonic is also a wise choice. Stay away from no-name generic batteries.

Agree with AW IMRs.

For clearotanks, I'd suggest the Kanger Protank. These are bottom-coil, bottom-wicked (gravity works in their favor), with rebuildable (replaceable) heads, and utilize a replaceable pyrex tank that would be safe for all flavors of e-liquid.

These are what I've used prior to the REO. They're excellent for a regulated mod. However, they now seem like one of those unsatisfying ultra light cigarettes.

For a cartotank, I'd suggest the IBTanked pyrex cartotanks. High quality, with either stainless steel or anodized aluminum end caps. Three diameters to choose from to fit any size mod. Three lengths to fit the standard (35mm) and XL (45mm) cartomizers, as well as a new super shorty "Halfling" to fit the shorter carts. Complete tank kits starting at $25. For cartomizers, I recommend Ikenvape if you find them in stock. The other two choices would be Smoktech or Boge. The top battery chargers are Pila, Nitecore Intellicharger, and the better Xtar brands.

Agreed. I only use cartos for testing unknown juices.

 

[RagingCheese]

Getting a regulated (variable voltage/wattage) APV initially as your first mod will give you more options as far as ohms/resistance choice; a mechanical mod will restrict those choices.

A mechanical mod will have no true built-in safety features; the "hot spring" and vent holes only go into effect once a battery gets hot and does nothing to prevent or warn of a hard short. A regulated mod will have built-in protective circuitry to detect a fault in the atomizer and either refuse to fire (displaying an error code on the LED display) or shut down completely to protect the atty, the mod itself, and the user from harm.

A mechanical mod will have a drop off in vape satisfaction as the battery's voltage drains during use. A regulated mod will regulate the voltage to the atty to the voltage dialed in by the boost circuit so that the vape satisfaction remains relatively constant from the time you install a new battery until it needs to be replaced. How well the regulated mod does this depends upon the level of sophistication of the processor's boost circuitry.
___

As far as batteries go, you can't really go wrong with the AW brand. The high drain, safer-chemistry IMR are the most recommended choice. Panasonic is also a wise choice. Stay away from no-name generic batteries.
___

For clearotanks, I'd suggest the Kanger Protank. These are bottom-coil, bottom-wicked (gravity works in their favor), with rebuildable (replaceable) heads, and utilize a replaceable pyrex tank that would be safe for all flavors of e-liquid.

For a cartotank, I'd suggest the IBTanked pyrex cartotanks. High quality, with either stainless steel or anodized aluminum end caps. Three diameters to choose from to fit any size mod. Three lengths to fit the standard (35mm) and XL (45mm) cartomizers, as well as a new super shorty "Halfling" to fit the shorter carts. Complete tank kits starting at $25.

For cartomizers, I recommend Ikenvape if you find them in stock. The other two choices would be Smoktech or Boge.
The top battery chargers are Pila, Nitecore Intellicharger, and the better Xtar brands.

Wow. Thank you for such a detailed response. I will definitely look into APV instead of a mechcanical mod. Just now need to decide which APV is highly recommended (besides the REO as I cant get over how it looks. lol). But who knows, maybe everyone here will persuade me to get over the way it looks and pull the trigger on one.

 

[sawlight]

Actually, it's the other way around. The regulated mod will restrict your choices of using low ohm coils.



Have you tried this yourself with the REO spring? I will... and I'll bet the spring heats much faster than the battery.



That's why you check your atomizer with a multimeter before you use it.



There will be a decrease in voltage applied to the coil and a decrease in vapor produced per unit of time. So you vape a bit longer each time. Of course, when you're starting out at much more power than the regulated mod can deliver, you can afford to lose some.



Assuming you're satisfied with the lesser output of the regulated mod.



Agree with AW IMRs.



These are what I've used prior to the REO. They're excellent for a regulated mod. However, they now seem like one of those unsatisfying ultra light cigarettes.



Agreed. I only use cartos for testing unknown juices.

A regulated mod will only restrict you to resistances of 1.5ohms or less, but gives you the option to use other atomizers that wont vape as well on a mechanical.
The heat comes from the battery reaching it's amp load. Either way it's a last ditch save.
Have you never had an atomizer change resistance on you while being used? I sure have! Carto's have started out 1.8 new and dropped to less than 1.5 as they broke down. I've also had RBA's fluctuate severely while burning in.
Not sure what you are saying with the lesser power, unless you are one that likes sub-ohm coils at 30 some watts?
I'm not dogging the Reo, but it's also not the "end all beat all". I was happy with VV myself, gave me the option to buy what was in stock, not what I needed, and be able to make it work, a big deal in the vaping world right now! BUT, since my Provari has let me down and had to go back in for repairs, I'm not sure I trust it anymore, so I've gone with a Legacy mechanical for the time being. So I get both sides of the argument, just trying to make sure the facts are presented properly.

 

[BeatboxHero]

Wow. Thank you for such a detailed response. I will definitely look into APV instead of a mechcanical mod. Just now need to decide which APV is highly recommended (besides the REO as I cant get over how it looks. lol). But who knows, maybe everyone here will persuade me to get over the way it looks and pull the trigger on one.

Youtube is great for this Tons of reviews and the majority of popular reviewers give you both sides of the story. Pros and cons so to speak. I watched reviews for about a week and then decided I was well enough informed to make a good choice. It turned out well