Newbie: needing help with mvp

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I too am a professional user of the hammer, however in this case, hopefully some good old fashioned proper business ethics will apply. I have faith, and I am determined to quit analogs for good- so right now all I can do is hope for decent practices with b&m. I have worked every angle suggested- other than tampering, and it is no go for vapor. As for the q&a's on vv, I tried them all. One of them should have worked. As for ohms, each atty is different, so I should have found a hit somewhere, with one of them too. And I did try the kanger, but I truly hate everything about it except for the amount it holds. And it didn't work either. :(
 

Baditude

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All the clearomizers (Evod, Protank, iClear 16 & 30) I've tried work great on my MVP, but none of my cartotanks will, either with or without the beauty ring adaptor. Absolutely no vapor production. My B&M vendor was hesitant to pull the connector pin on the MVP, saying the problem is with the connector on the cartomizers that I use (Ikenvape).
 

23skidoo

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All the clearomizers (Evod, Protank, iClear 16 & 30) I've tried work great on my MVP, but none of my cartotanks will, either with or without the beauty ring adaptor. Absolutely no vapor production. My B&M vendor was hesitant to pull the connector pin on the MVP, saying the problem is with the connector on the cartomizers that I use (Ikenvape).

I have had great results with my Ikenvape 1.7ohm cartos in my tanks at ~3.7 volts and my smok 2.0ohm cartos in tanks at 4.0-4.2 volts on my MVP. It seems really odd to me that you have issues with vapor production with your setup. Just goes to show that people can have the same battery devices and same style delivery devices and end up with different results.
 

Baditude

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I have had great results with my Ikenvape 1.7ohm cartos in my tanks at ~3.7 volts and my Smok 2.0ohm cartos in tanks at 4.0-4.2 volts on my MVP. It seems really odd to me that you have issues with vapor production with your setup. Just goes to show that people can have the same battery devices and same style delivery devices and end up with different results.

I'm sure it has to be inconsistancy of either the Ikenvape cartomizer connector pins or the MVP's connector pin. I know of two other MVP owners here on ECF who have had the same problem of their MVP not being able to use cartotanks. Then you say you haven't had a problem using Ikenvape and the MVP together. :blink:
 
Here's what I found out, folks: apparently this thing has a mind of its own! I didn't get a refund (yet) but what I have discovered is that the green light stays on just slightly longer with the one Iclear 30. This is an indicator of something awry ( yes I heard that before, but I couldn't quite see why) so, the older ( by a couple of weeks) iclear 30's pin is just ever so slightly shorter - this did in fact cause firing not to occur. I had the vv in the correct spot, and everything was still south. So, after some tinkering, we got all regulated, I learned a couple of tips on the green light to watch for and all was bliss when I left the store. So, I had a few good puffs on the way home. I was told to never fill the tank ( I already knew that) while on the itaste, so with working newer Iclear 30 ( I bought it when I bought the mvp), I headed home. Removed it just l to add more juice- alas, square 1! Now it has a semi-full atty and I get 1 hit every 15 minutes or so. Green light lingers a bit, so that's not good. Took all clearos off, still getting longer green light. I also noticed that about 1 in 6 puffs is actually registering, even if I happen to get vapor. So getting the goods doesn't automatically insure a puff counter register. I'm just at a loss as to what should be done now. Any ideas? I like the hammer suggestion but it won't be effective on my habit. Lol.
 

23skidoo

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I'm sure it has to be inconsistancy of either the Ikenvape cartomizer connector pins or the MVP's connector pin. I know of two other MVP owners here on ECF who have had the same problem of their MVP not being able to use cartotanks. Then you say you haven't had a problem using Ikenvape and the MVP together. :blink:

Did you just hear that?

That was me knocking on wood. :) I have only had the one issue I mentioned earlier with me over tightening the carto and getting a short. The MVP handled it fine and I just backed the carto off a 1/4 turn and all was well.

Here's what I found out, folks: apparently this thing has a mind of its own! I didn't get a refund (yet) but what I have discovered is that the green light stays on just slightly longer with the one Iclear 30. This is an indicator of something awry ( yes I heard that before, but I couldn't quite see why) so, the older ( by a couple of weeks) iclear 30's pin is just ever so slightly shorter - this did in fact cause firing not to occur. I had the vv in the correct spot, and everything was still south. So, after some tinkering, we got all regulated, I learned a couple of tips on the green light to watch for and all was bliss when I left the store. So, I had a few good puffs on the way home. I was told to never fill the tank ( I already knew that) while on the itaste, so with working newer Iclear 30 ( I bought it when I bought the mvp), I headed home. Removed it just l to add more juice- alas, square 1! Now it has a semi-full atty and I get 1 hit every 15 minutes or so. Green light lingers a bit, so that's not good. Took all clearos off, still getting longer green light. I also noticed that about 1 in 6 puffs is actually registering, even if I happen to get vapor. So getting the goods doesn't automatically insure a puff counter register. I'm just at a loss as to what should be done now. Any ideas? I like the hammer suggestion but it won't be effective on my habit. Lol.

Do you have a small set of needle nose pliers and some q-tips? Do you like gladiator movies? Just kidding about the gladiator movies.:D

If you have the other stuff, take the iclear off the MVP. Clean the inside of the 510 connection on the MVP and the iclear. Very gently pull/wiggle the center pin on the iclear out just a bit. Put them back together and see what happens.

I have a couple of clearos that the center pin gets pushed in on every time I use them and then make poor contact when I fill them and try to use them again.

The only thing that worries me is that the green light on the button is staying lit longer than normal (possibly) indicating a short... or you haven't been getting any shorts and just sporadic contact in the 510 connection and the light is staying lit as it normally does. I can't tell without seeing it in action.

Do you have a voltage meter by any chance?
 
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jefsview

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May 2, 2013
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Use the beauty ring with the iclear30.

With the beauty ring on, there will still be a slight sliver of gap between the snug iclear30 and the beauty ring. Tighten it down too much, and it will push the post and the built-in protection will kick in. Tighten it not enough, and you won't get full hits. If you don't use the beauty ring, then it'll get tightened too much and the 510 connector could get broken more easily.

Yes, the built-in atomizer/short protection is touchy. But as I've stated in previous threads, the MVP and iclears are like cats with feline temperments. Learn to treat them right, and they reward you handsomely. You just have to know how to stroke them :)
 
I do have a voltage meter and the weird just gets weirder...I gave it time to think about the situation, and left it for a couple hours. It is now working somewhat fair, no lingering green lights, and small plumes of vapor. It doesn't seem to care for the ring, so great caution is used, to prevent a major catastrophe. What should it read, and do I test every variable? I can imagine its not precise, ( I'd be shocked if it is) I'm just new to this itaste thing. I rather think they should call it the I-test. It sure has tested me! You guys are great - and I am curious to know what I might need to do to rebuild the sigelei 10 that I miss so much!
 

23skidoo

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Feb 21, 2013
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While I am for sure grasping at straws here, I'll go ahead and grab another.

Since you said you have a multi meter (I hope it's a digital meter) go ahead and test the resistance of your clearos and test the voltage of your mvp with it. The video below is something I pulled off of youtube to save me some typing. A couple of notes- for resistance set your meter to the 200 setting and touch the end of the two test leads together, and if there is a resistance showing you need to subtract that amount from your readings on your clearos. Also, use caution when testing voltage, if your positive lead slips it will short your battery. The MVP has a short protection circuit in it (like we've talked about) but it's best to never cause a short to start with.

Compare your readings to what is set on the voltage screen of the MVP and the clearo readings to the advertised rating.

***not my video***


Did you try the slight pull on the center pin of the clearos?
 
Thanks for the tips, I will be especially careful with the leads. I did try to adjust the pins in my attys. and now I get 1 hit in 10, and that darn lingering green light! Sorry I couldn't respond sooner- and of course the b&m is awaiting shipment of mvps. I'm swapping this puppy for another. Sick of it already! You guys are great!
 

DavidOck

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Certainly no fun when devices don't work right. As with cars, "lemons" happen. Either made on a monday, when the crew is recovering from the weekend, or on friday, when they're thinking about the weekend instead of the job!

But if your B&M will swap it out for you, all could still be good!
 
Ok, swapped it for a silver one last night around 8. B&m was very understanding. Of course, the old one worked while I was there, it did have the lingering green light though. I checked all my attys on the new one. No problems today, new one works like a charm and now I know why people like them so much. Very helpful forum and I hope that no one else runs into the problems I have had. Thanks,guys.
 
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